>30k miles on "performance rotors" and I have major vibration when braking..what todo
#1
'12 TL AWD Advanced
Thread Starter
>30k miles on "performance rotors" and I have major vibration when braking..what todo
I picked up a set of front and rear "Premium Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Kit" shortly after buying my used '12 AWD. The OEM were fine, I just wanted something different. I have put under 30k miles on them and for a while they have been vibration upon braking. I didn't really notice it until I was on a date with a car chick who immediately said whoa your rotors are warped when I stopped! How embarrassing. The problem is I am not sure what to replace first as the vibration isn't in the steering wheel as much as I would think for a set of front rotors. I have tried to use the parking break and the car slows down without an issue/vibration but that warning light scares me so I don't bring the car to a complete stop with it. That's why I think it's in the front. I know the tires are balanced so it's not that either, as well as put on correctly with the right bolt pattern and torque. Short of paying someone to check them, I don't have any other ways to measure them to see if they are warped. This company I purchased them from warranties their rotors for 2 years and I fall under that but I have to ship them back on my own dime and also pay for the return shipping. That leaves me without a car for at least a week, most likely two weeks as we are on opposites sides of the country. I can't see the shipping being less than $30 each way. So I might just be better off to scrap these and buy something local or online again. Am I missing anything before biting the bullet and buying a new set of front rotors and pads & installing them? I do drive my car but I am not tracking it, or beating on it any more than my other cars and I've never replaced rotors this fast in my 20 years of driving.
#2
The inconvenient truth
You should have explained the situation to your date and asked her what to do. So I would suggest asking her out again.
Also just because they are called "premium" doesn't mean they are good. That could simply be their name.
Also just because they are called "premium" doesn't mean they are good. That could simply be their name.
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-01-2018)
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-01-2018)
#4
KCCO
There are many reasons for a rotor to warp. Perhaps they were hot one day and you drove through a puddle, make a lot of short fast stops instead of long slow stops, or inch along slowly in traffic. All can lead to premature warping. 30,000 miles is not bad for brakes, although many people have gotten more out of them. Performance brakes will not last as long as many others, for example an M3’s brakes will not last as long as a Camry’s.
Just pay the money and have a mechanic look at your brakes. You’d better take a good look at your warranty too, as most, if not all manufacturers will not warranty against warping due to a driver’s habits. They put those warrantys on their brakes because it’s a very small chance that there was a manufacturers defect. Likely what would happen is, you’d send them to the manufacturer across the country, your car is laid up for a week or two and then you’d hear that they wouldn’t go good for the rotors due to it not being a defect. It’s up to you, but if it were me, I would just take it to a brake shop and buy new rotors and pads
You should definitely not be using your hand brake to slow down and stop. That’s not what it’s designed for. .
Just pay the money and have a mechanic look at your brakes. You’d better take a good look at your warranty too, as most, if not all manufacturers will not warranty against warping due to a driver’s habits. They put those warrantys on their brakes because it’s a very small chance that there was a manufacturers defect. Likely what would happen is, you’d send them to the manufacturer across the country, your car is laid up for a week or two and then you’d hear that they wouldn’t go good for the rotors due to it not being a defect. It’s up to you, but if it were me, I would just take it to a brake shop and buy new rotors and pads
You should definitely not be using your hand brake to slow down and stop. That’s not what it’s designed for. .
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
#5
I have one statement of fact, one question, and one educated guess.
Fact: Rotors don't warp.
Question: What process did you use to bed in your pads with the new discs?
Educated guess: The vibration is due to unevenly distributed pad material since you didn't bed in your brakes properly.
Fact: Rotors don't warp.
Question: What process did you use to bed in your pads with the new discs?
Educated guess: The vibration is due to unevenly distributed pad material since you didn't bed in your brakes properly.
Last edited by ReneC; 01-02-2018 at 03:46 PM.
#6
6G TLX-S
What is the brand name of your "Premium Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Kit" ?
#7
'12 TL AWD Advanced
Thread Starter
I have one statement of fact, one question, and one educated guess.
Fact: Rotors don't warp.
Question: What process did you use to bed in your pads with the new discs?
Educated guess: The vibration is due to unevenly distributed pad material since you didn't bed in your brakes properly.
Fact: Rotors don't warp.
Question: What process did you use to bed in your pads with the new discs?
Educated guess: The vibration is due to unevenly distributed pad material since you didn't bed in your brakes properly.
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#8
'12 TL AWD Advanced
Thread Starter
#9
Senior Moderator
I picked up a set of front and rear "Premium Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Kit" shortly after buying my used '12 AWD. The OEM were fine, I just wanted something different. I have put under 30k miles on them and for a while they have been vibration upon braking. I didn't really notice it until I was on a date with a car chick who immediately said whoa your rotors are warped when I stopped! How embarrassing. The problem is I am not sure what to replace first as the vibration isn't in the steering wheel as much as I would think for a set of front rotors. I have tried to use the parking break and the car slows down without an issue/vibration but that warning light scares me so I don't bring the car to a complete stop with it. That's why I think it's in the front. I know the tires are balanced so it's not that either, as well as put on correctly with the right bolt pattern and torque. Short of paying someone to check them, I don't have any other ways to measure them to see if they are warped. This company I purchased them from warranties their rotors for 2 years and I fall under that but I have to ship them back on my own dime and also pay for the return shipping. That leaves me without a car for at least a week, most likely two weeks as we are on opposites sides of the country. I can't see the shipping being less than $30 each way. So I might just be better off to scrap these and buy something local or online again. Am I missing anything before biting the bullet and buying a new set of front rotors and pads & installing them? I do drive my car but I am not tracking it, or beating on it any more than my other cars and I've never replaced rotors this fast in my 20 years of driving.
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
#11
If the pads aren't worn out and the car isn't unstable under braking (!) I would try the bed in procedure again.
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
#12
Drifting
You can have you car fix and back on the road with half a day to a day max down time.
Make an appointment with a brake shop to turn your rotors first thing in the morning when they open. Remove your rotors the night before and drop them off first thing in the morning. You'll have them back in a couple hours. Reinstall the turned rotors and pads on your car. You're done by noon time on the same day you dropped off the rotors.
I would replace the pads with a proven brake pad recommended by a trusted brake shop. No substitute for experience from a seasoned tech/trusted shop. And don't ask for the cheapest, instead ask for a good quality or good value brake pad set that is appropriate for your rotors and driving style.
BTW, it's best practice to turn the new rotors first before installation. That way there are no high spots to cause warpage.
Make an appointment with a brake shop to turn your rotors first thing in the morning when they open. Remove your rotors the night before and drop them off first thing in the morning. You'll have them back in a couple hours. Reinstall the turned rotors and pads on your car. You're done by noon time on the same day you dropped off the rotors.
I would replace the pads with a proven brake pad recommended by a trusted brake shop. No substitute for experience from a seasoned tech/trusted shop. And don't ask for the cheapest, instead ask for a good quality or good value brake pad set that is appropriate for your rotors and driving style.
BTW, it's best practice to turn the new rotors first before installation. That way there are no high spots to cause warpage.
Last edited by 01acls; 01-04-2018 at 03:04 PM.
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
#13
6G TLX-S
Not all shops/dealerships hand-torque wheel nuts to factory specs. Their pneumatic air gun just torque the hell out of the wheel nuts.
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
The following users liked this post:
forest (01-07-2018)
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