purekoryo

I've changed the front brake rotors and pads and I still get vibration when braking, especially braking from high speeds. What other major reasons can it be for it to vibrate? I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel, where it will steer left and right really fast about half an inch.

thanks

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

i believe that if the brake pedal pulsates the front rotors are warped and if the steering wheel vibrates the rear rotors are warped.

FirePR2002

how are the calipers - could be a sticking caliper(s) causing the vibration.

01tl4tl

raj- please back slowly away from this discussion - you dont know brakes ok~

First thing to know is the condition of the brake fluid
Flush it with clean fresh new fluid ike you are supposed to do every year and see if that helps-
you could have a dieing/sticking or dead caliper in front, happens after brake job when old fluid was left in the system and damages an oring on the piston

Improper wheel lug torque can also damage rotor hub and axle resulting in vibration

Pull the wheels and calipers-- check the pads wear so far- is it even? or one pad is not getting any wear?- or is wearing at an angle?

Many gen2 are at an age and place where the brake fluid was never changed- and now they need calipers and maybe more- this is a good time to upgrade the calipers too- for the same price as TL calipers

01tl4tl

was the pad slider clips-pad tab end clips- that attach to the bracket cleaned and regreased- if not- the pads can stick crooked
All the contact points and movement points need to be spotless and then regreased with caliper grease- hi temp stuff

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

thats why i said i believe, wasnt sure but thats what i heard

Montaigne

I just changed my brake fluid at 138k. I doubt it had been done previously since there was a green algae-like build up in the reservoir. I flushed a few quarts of brake fluid through the system to try and get as much gunk out of the system and it made a huge difference. The brakes are much more responsive.

FirePR2002

my head started spinning.

Could very well be a caliper issue then. or master cylinder. how is the wear on the rotors and pads front and back?

i am assuming you did bleed the brakes properly during the flush, right?

xconradx

Nobody mentioned having your wheels balanced... so I though I would throw it in there.

Also, I know it was already mentioned but uneven pad wear will tell a lot about the condition of the calipers.

purekoryo

I have not greased anything, so that may be the cause. I checked the pads all around, and they seem even. I changed the front rotors about 7k miles ago, but I do not remember if I greased the calipers. I may need to just reinstall the front rotor and brake pads but with grease.

FirePR2002

that's where i would start if nothing appears amiss when you inspect the rotor and pad surfaces. might as well inspect and re-grease the rear while you're at it. make sure you bleed the brakes in the proper order before inspecting the calipers so you don't push old fluid back into the system.

maniaC_99

not that im trying to hijack the thread....BUT
i have something similar going on. its a long story...
i replaced brakes and rotors about 2k miles ago
and ended about having a warp fd rotor.
yes, from factory. pedal was kicking and car was shaking
like crazy. we got the old rotor back and now the car
still shakes on braking (a lil like it always did but pedal dont kick) and now i have this ANNOYING
squeaking noise on slow-dead braking and while its rolling that i think/hope its
coming from the front. yes we did lube everything.
just got a pair of rotora slotted/drilled rotors for the front and wanted
to know if i HAVE to replace the pads AGAIN. i know ppl say
its good to, but its been only 2k miles i got em...
also flushing the brake fluids while at it.
any suggestions??? im really hoping to resolve the issue.
im so scared the car will do the same thing it did the first time
around.

01tl4tl

if the brake fluid looked really bad- its possible to have damage to a caliper or two or more!!
My 01 have never been done and at 70k it got new brake parts-
a LOT of brake part$$

Especially if you did not flush the fluid BEFORE doing the brake pads- meaning old fluid was in the caliper/system when the caliper piston was pushed back into the caliper body to allow room for the new pads.

Microscopic rust particles (google Hygroscopic) are in the calipers and that gets Backwashed ---so always flush the fluid First!!!
Flush each caliper until nothing but clean new fluid comes out

A caliper can sieze or stick and cause the shake described.
You need to physically remove the calipers and inspect the pad wear across its face and inner pad to outer pad depth wear is critcal to know- see how the rotor looks- even wear?
ON REAR BRAKES- many pad makers use the same backing plate style and its wrong for the TL
On the INNER pad of rear brakes- IF there were 3 stick up tab/buttons- one on each end and 1 in the center edge--that center tab is a problem and MUST be removed with a grinder or dremel or cutoff tool and made flush and smooth
If its there- the tab hits the caliper piston and makes the pad sit crooked- only givesd half face on inner side of rotor
Will cause freaky shake as the back end isnt getting its correct proprtion of braking

Also I have seen the bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket -when put on with an air gun--tear the threads right out of the caliper mounting bracket!!!
The bolts were in there visually- but not gripping.. so the caliper moved under braking.
Big time wheel shake
When bolts removed- found metal threads wrapped around the bolt threads!!! not good~
Installed Legend calipers and new bracket -problem solved

totaledTL

Well after reading about the Legend calipers & having a shake in my wheel when braking I decided to replace mine too. Pads looked good (I think they were replaced shortly before I bought it). Took the rotors to be machined and told they were true, not warped. Not what I wanted to hear-

Everything going good until --- I stripped the threads of in one of the new calipers where the brake hose goes. Afterwards I realized I failed to notice that at least one, maybe both, of the old sealing washers were stuck to the hose fitting. They were smaller than the new ones and aluminum (same color as the fitting) so I just didn't see them. So I had too many washers on it, which reduced the depth that the bolt threaded into the caliper, combined with apparently too much torque- well you get the picture. I'm telling on myself so others can benefit.... been a long time since stripped something important like that lol.

Anyway, I reordered another caliper. Nobody around here has them. Good news is local parts store price is $50 and he's nice enough not to charge me core, just bring olds ones back when finished. Good guy. Just hope my shaking issue is due to a caliper problem since the rotors were true.

Last thing- who knows the torque spec for the brake line to caliper? Thanks.

Montaigne

Has anyone had issues with their power steering rack or p/s compenents and front-end vibrations?

totaledTL

Finished my caliper replacement with Legend calipers. Brakes well, most importantly the steering wheel shake when braking is gone! Since the rotors were true I suppose there was a problem with one of the old calipers. Flushed out all the brake fluid too. Thanks to all who've posted with advice, esp. 01tl4tl. Hopefully the shaking doesn't return.

01tl4tl

a reminder to all- flush/bleed order is LF = driver front, LF RF RR LR
anything else will mess you up big time

With the legend calipers its best to prefill them- I use a $3 oil squirt can with new brake fluid in it-that pushes out air and cuts down on potential air hiding in one of the pistons

After install-Do the abs test- 2 stops from 45 mph with full brake effort to active ABS,
then immedialty accelerate to 45 mph and repeat (this is per the book)

If pedal feels better 2nd time, you had air in the abs main controller- it can happen when the lines are removed to install SS lines- can also happen with caliper swap
That air is now working its way to the LF caliper- rebleed the entire system to be sure its perfect

Many of us buy cars that never had a brake fluid change and have caliper problems
gen2s are at an age/mileage to need to rebuild the brake system- then your good for another 100,000

And, you can take perfect care with new fluid every year- and still wear out a caliper or master cylinder- stop and go traffic-
if you saw the tiny oring that makes the brakes work...

acura17rdx

Currently I have my 2017 Acura RDX Adv AWD (20k miles on it) with an intermittent judder/vibration in the brake pedal when stopping the car at any speed. Happens about 1 out of every 3 times you stop/brake the car... sometimes the vibration is slight, sometimes its pretty bad and can be felt in the steering wheel and then sometimes it does not happen at all. Its very noticeable though and the confusing part is that its currently at the Acura dealer and the dealer has had 2 people out driving my RDX multiple times each and they say it brakes smoothly and everything is perfect. They say the brake pads have 70% life on them, the rotors are not warped either and the tires are like new with no uneven wear on them (my RDX does drive nice with no pull). The interesting thing is that this started happening shortly after I had my car in the dealership for another issue (metal rattling noise when going over small bumps) which ended up being a broken passenger side tie-rod end-link. When I asked how does that just happen... they told me it was a defective part from the factory. So now they are saying they will not fix this brake problem because they cannot feel/get the vibration issue to exhibit the problem, so there is nothing to fix. So not sure what I should do now, as I feel I am being left with an issue I feel is un-tolerable which is not going to be addressed/fixed. HELP!!!

SuperGreg

Keep your wheel lug nuts properly torqued and you will almost never have brake pulsing issues. Every single time a tire shop has touched my wheels they were improperly torqued and caused me lots of pulsing rotors until I figured out the issue (it would usually crop up 2-3 months after getting new tires or rotation).

I jack the car up with the tire resting on the ground with just enough force to keep it from turning, loosen the nuts, torque them all to 55-60 ft-lbs, then 80 ft-lbs. Make sure your torque wrench is calibrated as well.

Steering wheel shaking back and forth = front rotors, vibration that feels like it's coming through the floor of the car = rear rotors.