Hey guys,

I've been thinking about upgrading my RSB after reading about how some of you all love it; but I've got a few questions.

First off, I have a 04' Base 5AT. Currently, All the suspension is stock.

Should I upgrade to a Type-S rear sway bar or the Progress? the TL is my daily driver and I have no plans to run it on a track or anything. I've read that the Progress is adjustible but I'm not sure I need that. The price difference between the two is about 100 bucks.

Also, if I upgrade to either one of those RSB's, should I also do the FSB? Why/why not?

I've also been thinking about dropping the car on some H&R springs with the stock shocks; if that makes any difference..


I'm new to all this suspension stuff; so I'm not 100% sure what I should do...


Thanks!

 

The Progress bar is definelty a big step. But I'd do that over the Type-S bar; you'd probably feel some improvement, but not sure it would be that much.

The CompTech bar is in between, that'd be worth it if you find one at the right price.

If you're not going track your car or go all Fast & Furious on the street, don't even think about the FSB. It's too much trouble for daily driving and an occasional quick on/off ramp.

H&R springs would be a nice addition. They complement the RSB upgrade and provide a nice, but moderate drop while keeping the ride pretty decent.

 

Thanks!

I read some posts about over/understeer and stuff like that with only the RSB. Will that be a problem for me? I'm not understanding some of the posts I read 100%....

I may just go progress since resale value will be much higher on that if I get bored/decide i dont like it

 

I have a Type-S RSB on my 5AT and it is fine and inexpensive.

 

It's unlikely you'll have oversteer problem (back end tries to snap around) unless you're REALLY pushing OR your pushing it pretty hard a abruptly lift of the throttle mid-turn.

If you get the Progress, put it on the "soft" position. That'll give a little more margin.


What you have now is understeer (the car tries to go straight when you want it to turn). Most cars are biased for understeer becasue it's easier to correct - all you have to do is slow down. You'll reduce that with the sway bar.

 

Driving experience with the progress rsb:
it will tighten up the ride. Before the RSB i felt that the fwd robbed me every time i got into the car. it now feels more rigid when switching lanes and not like I'm going to lose it.

the fun factor is when you give it gas in a corner. the back end will swing out.

I do have a 6MT with a stiffer fsb, your results might differ.

 

It will swap ends on you with the stock 5at fsb and the Progress on firm. This is a 100% certainty if you push the limits.

I'm done writing novels on this. I'll leave it at this:

Larger rsb= more oversteer.
Larger fsb= more understeer.
The TL understeers when stock.

The 5at comes with a softer fsb than the 6mt and TL-S so factor that into your decision.

For turn-in sharpness you can't beat a larger fsb. It is a very nice improvement, just as much of an improvement as the rsb as long as you balance it with a much larger rsb.

The best would be upgrading both swaybars.

 

the comptech is a great bar for the price if you can find it cheap. I saw them going for around 70 dollars on ebay, I got mine for 120 a year after they came out.

The comptech bar is probably the best out there in terms of the average enthusiast driver. The progress bar is a bit better but you won't really feel the advantage unless you are really pushing the car at the track.

As well the progress bar has had a history of being a bit TOO firm for the rear subframe of the car and has torn the welds that support the bar to the lower subframe. No such thing has happened with the comptech bars.

As well people have bent endlinks with the Progress bars, none have been reported with the comptech bar.

From what I know first hand, comptech collaborated with acura on building some of their parts and some of their components and a good amount were even used on the Racing Acura TL (I think thunderhill TL?).

In my opinion, the Comptech bar seems like the best bang for the buck for the average driver. If you don't intend on tracking you car, spending 50+ dollars on the Progress bar isn't worth it. If you do go with the comptech bar, don't forget to use some lithium grease on the supplied bushings!

 

Thanks for the info guys!

I can't seem to find the Comptech bar anywhere. I checked ebay, and googled but couldn't find it for less than $149; which is actually more than the Progress; LAME.

 

CT-Engineering, aka comptech sells it for 99 dollars on their website...

 

I'm not sold on the Progress bar bending endlinks. I haven't compared part numbers but th endlinks look the same front to rear and I've had no problems with my super stiff 28mm H&R bar bending the front links.

Like I've said in the past, the Progress bar will not break the subframe or bend links as long as you're not on stock suspension and nailing bumps and driveways hard at harsh angles. If your're lowered and the rear springs are stiffer than stock, chances are you're not going to have issues with the subframe breaking. I've had mine in firm for over a year now, no problems and I'm about to drill a couple more holes to make it even stiffer.

The Thunderhill TL doesn't really apply because they could've been using any spring rate, the rate could be stiff enough that a stiff swaybar is not needed. In a race car, swaybars are more used for fine tuning. In a street car they're used as a big source of roll reduction since ride comfort would be compromised using super stiff springs to get the same roll reduction.

It comes down to the rest of the combo. Swaybar selection is just one part of the combo and the size/stiffness needed is determined by several other factors and what you want to get out of it. There's no such thing as one swaybar is the best for every scenario.

 

AJ, sorry, but that's just not correct.

Several of the early reports of the torn welds were CompTech bars. As I recall something like half of the reports I've read (4 of 7 or something like that) have been CompTech bars with Energy Suspension bushings.

Yes, a some have been Progress bars as well, but not exclusively.

For example: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/rear-sub-frame-broken-688749/


Personally, I think there is more to it than just the RSB.

 

I definitely agree. You're much more likely to tear the subframe on stock suspension. I wish I had time to search for the failures right now but I suspect or I should say I guess most were on stock suspension.

 

Ouch. That's scary.

I was only planning on adding one of those two RSBs and staying with the stock suspension... But at most dropping it with Teins or H&Rs

Now I'm not sure what to do!

 

^lost cause.
dont modify your car.

my suspension is completely stock, save the Progress RSB.
i do have a stiffer fsb due to the 6mt, but as long as you drive over bumps evenly, you'll be fine.

the subframe mount only tears when you add stress to one side, ie: going over a bump with only the right side of the car. make sure you change the way you drive.

 

Exactly. Hitting a driveway or a gutter at extreme angles is about the worst thing you can do as far as putting stress on the bar and mounts. With stock suspension you don't have to worry about angles as much so that's a plus.

Regardless, it's not ideal to have super stiff swaybars and soft springs. The disadvantages of the large swaybars become more apparent such as inside tire lifting.

 

What about a 5at w/ comptech RSB, megan coils, and WITHOUT FSB (yet)

and I have to take driveways/dips sideways to avoid scraping.. should I steer away from a RSB or would taking driveways slowly reduce chances of breaking something?

reading of breaking subframes and endlinks are making me worried.. but I would LOVE to upgrade from stock swaybars

 

^re-read the thread.

on stock suspension is where subframe mounts crack.
lowered and stiffer rear springs help the rsb.

again, you have to adjust the way you drive according to your mods.

 

makes sense, guess the best knowledge is from own experience...

asking a bunch of questions isn't really gna help

i'll give it a go a see what happens

 

I think i'm gonna go ahead and get the progress....At least its adjustible

 

so i SHOULD get the progress rsb for my type s? i have megan coils on stiff setting

 

Gman, I already told you to get that hoe.

 

si tu puedes!

 

its just the car handles pretty well stock and i dont know if its worth the $

 

^gman, take a risk.

 

Just got the progress.... it IS worth the money lol

I need an upgraded FSB now tho

 

I'm buying the COMPTECH soon, shoulda done it awhile back.

 

I had FSB and RSB is my 05 Mazda3 when I had it... from Hotchkis. Put the rear in and made a night and day difference... but the front just made even more of a difference. It definately depends on how you want the car to handle. Normal street driving you will not notice the FSB, but if you're taking every corner you will feel it. When you have them both combined (depending on the size and brand) it kicks out the back (even though it's fwd...) if the rear is a lot stiffer than the front and visa versa. Good luck with the RSB!

 

If the rear is a lot stiffer than the front, the rear will slide first. If the front is stiffer than the rear like most every factory car, the front end breaks free first. To take advantage of a larger FSB, the rear bar needs to be done first and it needs to be significantly stiffer than the front otherwise you end up with a worse than stock handling balance.

 

http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/product412.html
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.
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I ended up ordering the progress from
Heeltoe.

If my car ever gets out of the body shop, I'll put it on and post my "results"

 

Wow... first time looking at pricing on the rsb for 3g TL and am impressed. Both fsb and rsb for the mazda3 from hotchkis was $380 from what I remember. $99 for a quality rsb I might just have to jump on that deal.

 

i have megans + progress and a 1" drop. no problems.

my recommendation is go with progress for now. If you like to track your car or push the limits, definitely get that FSB upgraded. imo a stiff rsb works fine and will keep your rear planted on turns up to a point, that point is determined by the stiffness of your FSB.