04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I don't care much for wheels or have much knowledge on them but for anyone that knows these are real 3-piece design rims. The problem I'm having is, when driving and going over bumps I can hear (With windows down) this metal tin noise. Like Clank or Ting noise. This noise only happens with these wheels on. Another way to discribe the noise as in bad struts in the car and going over bumps.

-I am using factory lugs which are in factory TQ specs
-I have noticed every 2-3 weeks I have to re-balance the front rims.


Any suggestions?

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

are you running aluminum hubrings?

flip_side

iTrader: (6)

factory lugs have a ball seat, dont you need a cone seat lug?

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

^ yes exactly what I'm thinking. The OEM lugs use a ball seat and aftermarkets are mostly conical seat lugs right? I thought it wouldn't seat right if you reused the OEM lugs...

sT04Louis

iTrader: (5)

Are you running stretch tires, what offset, and what width?

Metal on metal can be you rubbing on the inside of the wheel on the shock tube since you hear the noise when hitting bumps.


And change your lugs...

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Specs are

Front: 19x8 +34 Hi-disk (clears BBK)
Rear: 19x9 +36 Low-disk (maximum lip)

Front tires: 235/35-19
Rear tires : 245/35-19

No Spacers used and I don't have an hub ring. I bought these used from a member here. I at this point wish I never bought these wheels.. Is it possible that just maybe the bolts inside the rim could be loose? If so does anyone know what the correct TQ specs is on them?

The noise can be heard on any slight bumps which means the suspension isn't moving much. The rear wheels rub against the A-spec lip. The front drivers side rim USE to rub on the top side of the fender but that was because I noticed the tire pressure was 10 PSI. Somebody was trying tampering with my wheels. Where can I get a new set of lugs? It never dawned on me about these lugs being wrong for the wheels. The noise I hear could possibly be the wheel slightly bouncing around the spindle due to using wrong lugs hahaha. Gotta love aftermarket.

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

^ You can get some Motegi lugs for a reasonable price. Any where online I'm assuming. I forget which ones we need b/c there's different types of those as well. I'm sure other informed members can tell you. And you should just get some hubrings...

Rubbing on the shock tube?! Ugh... that sounds awful...

Jesstzn

No hubcentric rings .. wrong lugs .. both need addressed .. but my concern is why do you have to rebalance them that often? Something is drastically not right. Shouldn't have to rebalance unless you throw a weight. Is the tire shop saying they are off a lot?

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I work as an automotive tech but in general repairs. Aftermarket stuff isn't my strongest point so that's why I said I know nothing about fancy rims. I will say that I did replace my Wheel stud yesterday put everything back together and get a nasty shake again while doing anything above 60. It seems that I once again will need to re-balance these wheels. They tend to be out by .25-.50 at times It's not much but still it's something. I should have just kept those crappy RJ's instead and just gotten them re-finished. Well It seems that A-specs might be going back on very soon.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Vibrations your getting is caused by the wrong lugs and hub rings

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

I agree with everyone else's comments too. Hubrings are like what? 20 bucks? Some conical lugs what like 50 (well some could be like 150)... address those first. I mean it might not be the cause but you gotta eliminate those as possibilities first and there are looking like good culprits to your problem.

ssmtl2nv

iTrader: (2)

Gus, get some muteki tuner lug nuts from ebay, thay have some great prices....

Jesstzn

If your short of $$ these work fine

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TUNER...spagenameZWDVW

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

hub centric rings are like <$15 shipped on fleabay too. honda/acura is a 64.1mm hub, i'm not sure what the works are but it's really easy to take a ruler and measure the wheel yourself.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...+rings&_sacat=

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys!!! You guys are fucking AWESOME! Very helpful information. I am ordering lugs and rings. Stay tuned..

WalkerUA6

iTrader: (1)

Yah, sounds like it probably is the lugs. Also It would be very helpful to just retorqe the rivvets on the wheels. FYI they're 18ft LBS each nut.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Thanks once i get the wheel lugs + hub rings I am going to balance all 4 and check every nut on the rims.

ssmtl2nv

iTrader: (2)

glad we can help...

Distorted Reality

As stated about would definately get aftermarket lug nuts, and what kind of hub rings did you purchase the plastic ones?

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

Hey keep us posted... I wanna know if it solved your issue.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Ordered:

Muteki Racing Light Weight Lug Nuts (Close End)
Color Black Option M12 x 1.50 ---> From a Work Wheel website

HUBRING-7364 Work Wheels Accessories (Carbon Plastic Type)
73mm > 64.15mm


I think between both it was 90 or less..

I am going to try these 1st before purchasing new rotors and pads because I have a nasty brake vibration but not sure if it's related to this..

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Also, before you go in for another balance, just install these items and see if it goes away. May save yourself the Time and Money of the balance

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

Gus... you should have purchased my old AME's... all the recent purchased items would have been included FREE with the PURCHASE...


Good luck resolving your issues... I know it's fustrating at times...

TLheaven

iTrader: (4)

Brake vibration could be from your rotors being warped.

TrevorT

iTrader: (2)

One other suggestion from personal experience.

My TPMS sensors were strapped around my wheels using special brackets. When they were installed the shop guy "cut" the extra strap material off and left it sitting in my wheels. This caused a "ting" "ting" sound when stopping and rolling. The very little extra weight floating around caused the tires to go out of balance constantly. Once I figured out what it was, removed the tire, remounted the tire, and re balanced the wheel all was fine.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I solved that problem... I put the rotor 180 out.. In other words I was in a rush and didn't index the rotor and put it 180 out of it's orignal spot. I will try to put it back in it's spot if it didn't hurt anything other wise here goes another 400+ for front rotoras and pads again... Sigh..

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

I replaced my front brakes (New rotors & Pads)
I re-balanced all 4 wheels
I installed new lugs nuts

80% of all vibrations gone.. Still there is some left

The bad:
While looking at the rims one of the front wheels have a slight bend in the lip

Both front wheels are going to a repair shop next week. I should have them back in 7 business days. They are getting straighten and the lips are going to be re-cleared. I got quoted about 450 to do the wheels. 3-piece wheels with lips and re-clearing sucks man. They are also going to check all bolt and re-balance then with a good machine. Stay tuned...

luckyAKAhappy

^^and you inserted hubrings? Did you purchase the rims as bent or you hit a pothole? Sux that you have to go through this.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I must have hit a pothole. The hub rings are coming in tomorrow. I doubt they will make that much of a difference.

Jesstzn

Don't rule them out that can make a big difference.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Update I just got them in today. They are aluminum rings, installed them and still have a bit of vibrations. Sorry to say but it's time to get these wheels fixed...

mista.huynh

iTrader: (4)

Dude that sucks. I had somewhat of a similar problem as you, but the hub rings fixed it. Different rims of course. Hope you can figure it out.