Freefallin06

Hey all. My TL 6MT has 87k original miles on it and feels a little "floaty" in daily driving and through corners. The alignment tech that drove it noted that the car felt this way and recommended new shocks and springs. So, after concurring with him on this, I was looking into shock and spring packages. Keep in mind $$$ is my #1 factor here, as I just bought the car and am financing it so I didn't want to dump a crap ton of unneeded money into it.


At any rate, I found a local CL add for take-off factory TL Type S shocks, springs and front sway bar w/26k miles. I am getting this gear for a good deal so I am meeting up with the guy next week to finalize the deal (much less $$ than anything else out there). Although the shocks wont drop the car as I originally wanted, I am OK with this due to the fact that it's cheap and the Type S shocks and springs are suppose to ride a little firmer and sportier than my TL 6MT base. This is true, isn't it? The TL Type S suspension is a touch firmer than my base TL right? I am just looking for a mild upgrade it stiffness and sportiness. I just want the car to feel more planted and fun, as it is a DD after all.


I am going to do the install along with front brakes and possible a Progress RSB. Would you guys recommend the factory Type S RSB or Progress? Anything else I should be looking at for the install of this factory Type S suspension kit? I have been researching write-ups and it doesn't seem too complicated but if anyone has write-ups or advice, please link them in this thread!


Sean

314_04TL

Ok the type s suspension will be stiffer and sportier than what you currently have. It won't drop you unfortunately. The Aspec suspension is the best of both worlds and adds a 1 inch drop to a base TL. And is stiffer as well. Type s front sway bar and progressive rear is the way to go. I'm in the process of doing that right now. Hope this helps

Freefallin06

I definitely want the ASPEC kit but can't justify $600 when I am getting the Type S kit with FSB for $175 and it only has 26k original miles on it. I don't think it comes with hardware or top hats or anything though. Can I re use my factory stuff or do I need any other components to install?

I keep reading gray reviews for tr Progress RSB, but I also read that it can tear up the factory end links or mounts. Is this common or true?

What would the different from the Type S RSB and the Progress? I know the Progress is going to be stiffer but how does the Type S compare? Do I need new endlinks or any other components when installing either of the 2 RSB's?

Sean

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

because you have the 6MT, you have upgraded parts already.

the stock 6MT rear sway bar is the same thickness as the type-s RSB, except the type-s RSB is solid.

i believe both the bars are at 19mm thick, while the progress RSB is 24mm thick.

the progress RSB will give you a better upgrade than the type-s bar, especially if you already have the 19mm RSB to begin with

Freefallin06

Copy. Would the solid RSB from the TL-S yield any better performance than my factory RSB?


Can anyone touch on the Progress RSB causing issues?


Sean

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you're going from a 19mm hollow bar to a 19mm solid bar.
I'm sure there are gains there,but it may be minuscule and not worth the 50 bucks to swap to a solid bar of the same girth.

when going to the 24 mm Progress RSB, there IS A CHANCE that it could break the mounting point on the chassis.

the RSB is full of tension and it connects the right wheel to the left wheel via lower control arms.
so, what happens when one wheel is higher than the other? it stresses the other side.

there are two ways to combat this.
either get stiffer springs in the rear to help keep everything taut

or

change your driving habits to where both rear wheels are always on the ground when going over bumps.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

and holy hell, you're going to install the Front Sway bar from the type-s?
that's a chore!!! front subframe needs to be dropped.

Freefallin06

Well, if the FSB is such a hassle, is swapping my stocker out for the TL-S even worth the hassle since the gains are going to be minimal?


I am now starting to second guess even purchasing the TL-S suspension since it sounds like the FSB is pointless and I originally DID want to run t he ASPEC factory suspension.


I am kind of in between a rock and a hard place because I think I definitely need new shocks as mine are "floaty", so this TLS setup sounds like a pretty sold fix to my issue since it's only $175. I don't have the scratch the afford anything better at the moment but if you guys have any other ideas let me know.


Sean

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

sean, i think we are getting confused on terms here.

so we have the front sway bar and the rear sway bar.

the rear sway bar is very simple to change.

the front sway bar is a bear. half the undercarriage has to come out.



I still think you're getting an awesome deal on the type-s shocks and springs tho and should still go through with the deal.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the front type-s sway bar is def. bigger and better than the base 6MT front sway bar.

if you're getting it along with the type-s shocks and springs, it'll be awesome! cept, you'll probably have to get some one to install it for you

Freefallin06

Yeah I think we are on the same page but I definitely got some miscommunication going there lol sorry buddy. How much stiffer will the Type S shocks and springs ride than my factory setup?


Sean

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

because you already have the so called "6mt Sport" model, your shock and springs will be very close in stiffness to the type-s.

i believe in order of firmness
aspec--->type-s---->6MT base --------->auto base

in the type-s top hats, a rubber bushing is replaced for a steel bushing. (you'll get more road feel)

foxriderar77

That is an awesome deal for all that, if you do want a little drop in the front you can take out the spring isolators in the tophats, you'd spend at least 200 on new struts though so I would buy that type s stuff and put it on, and maybe sell the swaybar

Freefallin06

Thanks guys, I think I will end up getting this stuff as my shocks feel like they are on their way out.


The Type S kit does not come with top hats or hardware. Can anyone tell me if I can re-use my OEM base top hats and hardware to install the Type S kit?


Sean

Freefallin06

Picking these up tomorrow and want to install this weekend. Are there any go-to writeups or videos you guys like?

Sean

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

What tires are on the car, model/size?

ExcelerateRep

I'm not sure if you can use the base tophats with the Type-S suspension. I believe the main difference is that the Type-S has upgraded rubber bushings, but I'm not certain.

If your purchase ends up failling through, keep us in mind for your suspension needs! We have great pricing on TEIN, H&R, Tanabe, Tokico, and more!

Suspension - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

Freefallin06

Why^^? But brand new Continental Extreme Contact DWS and they are just the factory size which I think it like 245/45/17?


Thanks I appreciate it. But unless you can sell the the ASPEC kit or comparable aftermarket for under $200, I think I will go with this setup

This is all good humor, of course

Sean

FamilyGuy

I *think* xlr8 is right, type s has stiffer hat bushings. I'd pick up a new set at your local dealer.

Freefallin06

What is wrong with my factory bushings? I keep hearing that the top hats are stiffer, but how is this going to affect the driveability of the car? What are the pros and cons compared to just re-using my original factory top hats?

I guess necessarily understand how these bushings/top hats work. ANy help appreciated

Sean

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

You ask why-----The suspension, especially the 6 M/T, is equipped with a very good suspension, so if you're experiencing handling problems, let's look at the tires.
The DWS tires are not only one of the narrowest tires, but also probably the softest tire made in a specific size. If you do some research you'll find that anyone with performance in mind find that the DWS is certainly not the tire of choice. In fact, I took an unmounted DWS 225/40-18, standing upright and could turn it inside out by pushing down on the tread while others will barely move. Food for thought

Freefallin06

Wow, never took that into consideration. Oh well, I like the trad design and the fact that they are good in all kinda of weather conditions because I live in Oregon. I think the tires will be fine for me.

Sean

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If you feel that they are fine, no sense complaining about the handling because no matter what you do, no suspension mod will counteract the soft sidewalls of the tires. Either you want a comfy soft ride, or a good handling car, can't have both, especially with the DWS.

Freefallin06

I would really like to see actual proof that contests your "soft sidewall" theory. I guess I just find it hard to believe that my tires are the contributor to my "floaty" suspension. I have had more than 3 people (shops and Heel Toe) tell me me car needs new shocks. I really find it hard to believe my tires are the main cause as to why the cars feels like its all over the road.

Sean

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Do some research on the DWS. Google is your friend.
Go to the local tire store and take the DWS and do what I did to the tire, then try it with another quality HP tire and you'll be a believer.
With 85k miles and you have 3 shops telling you that the car needs new shocks.
They leaking?
I've got the Brooklyn Bridge for sale, cheap.

Never tried it with the TL/DWS, so it may be an wasted effort, but stand on the rear side, corner, and push to see if you can get the car to move/flex on the tires. Our '04 won't budge.