Serious Alignment Problem
#1
Coal
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Serious Alignment Problem
Ok so I have extreme feathering on my front two tires from the toe. I took it to a trusted shop and they told me that actually my toe, camber, and caster are perfect within the set guidelines for our cars.
The weird thing is that my right rear had a .37 toe and my total toe it .34
Does this have anything to do with the fronts? I'm super confused because my rear tires are wearing perfectly and the fronts are shot.
Im super confused thanks for your input guys!!!
The weird thing is that my right rear had a .37 toe and my total toe it .34
Does this have anything to do with the fronts? I'm super confused because my rear tires are wearing perfectly and the fronts are shot.
Im super confused thanks for your input guys!!!
Last edited by 05TLdcc; 10-19-2010 at 03:11 PM.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Your front toe looks fine. As for your rear left toe thats off quite a bit. Toe itself is the main wearing part of the alignment. Camber wears but not as bad. Is this pre alignment because the left side doesnt even look adjusted at all. Looks like you hit something lol.
#7
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Ok so I have extreme feathering on my front two tires from the toe. I took it to a trusted shop and they told me that actually my toe, camber, and caster are perfect within the set guidelines for our cars.
The weird thing is that my right rear had a .37 toe and my total toe it .34
Does this have anything to do with the fronts? I'm super confused because my rear tires are wearing perfectly and the fronts are shot.
Im super confused thanks for your input guys!!!
The weird thing is that my right rear had a .37 toe and my total toe it .34
Does this have anything to do with the fronts? I'm super confused because my rear tires are wearing perfectly and the fronts are shot.
Im super confused thanks for your input guys!!!
then is that a hunter machine too???
and as far as the tire wear issues, is EVERYTHING tight in the front end, cause remember the machine is only reading the static alignment, and not the dynamic, as if the car is rolling down the road (and it is best to check the suspension in a loaded state too, basically jacked up underneth the control arms, so it is as if the car is still sitting on the tires themselves
then can the shop also print you out the other specs too, such as the SAI, included angles, kingpin inclination
Last edited by friesm2000; 10-19-2010 at 06:41 PM.
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#8
Coal
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if my front toe is fine why did i burn tires in 9000 miles? thats what im stuck on
remember the right side is negetive, so it would be 0.35, but you have to think about this is that the alignment machine is reading more precise then what is visable, and all it is doing is rounding off the numbers, which just so happens to be 0.01 more then what you are reading
#9
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remember the right side is negetive, so it would be 0.35, but you have to think about this is that the alignment machine is reading more precise then what is visable, and all it is doing is rounding off the numbers, which just so happens to be 0.01 more then what you are reading
then is that a hunter machine too???
and as far as the tire wear issues, is EVERYTHING tight in the front end, cause remember the machine is only reading the static alignment, and not the dynamic, as if the car is rolling down the road (and it is best to check the suspension in a loaded state too, basically jacked up underneth the control arms, so it is as if the car is still sitting on the tires themselves
then can the shop also print you out the other specs too, such as the SAI, included angles, kingpin inclination
then is that a hunter machine too???
and as far as the tire wear issues, is EVERYTHING tight in the front end, cause remember the machine is only reading the static alignment, and not the dynamic, as if the car is rolling down the road (and it is best to check the suspension in a loaded state too, basically jacked up underneth the control arms, so it is as if the car is still sitting on the tires themselves
then can the shop also print you out the other specs too, such as the SAI, included angles, kingpin inclination
#10
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but basically yes the suspension and such needs to be checked out for play and such (tie rods, ball joints, bearing, bushings, etc.)(the play would be allowing the alignment to be changing as you are driving down the road)
btw is the steering wheel level and does the car track straight down the road (there is a possibility that both sides have play in it, still allowing the wheel to be level though)
and the printout just looks like a hunter machine printout, why i ask
Last edited by friesm2000; 10-19-2010 at 07:05 PM.
#11
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struts LMFAO, they have no effect on the alignment on our cars (since we have a upper control arm for that purpose )
but basically yes the suspension and such needs to be checked out for play and such (tie rods, ball joints, bearing, bushings, etc.)
btw is the steering wheel level and does the car track straight down the road (there is a possibility that both sides have play in it, still allowing the wheel to be level though)
but basically yes the suspension and such needs to be checked out for play and such (tie rods, ball joints, bearing, bushings, etc.)
btw is the steering wheel level and does the car track straight down the road (there is a possibility that both sides have play in it, still allowing the wheel to be level though)
#13
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lol sorry im a n00b. alright thanks! i will have my guy check all that out. the steering wheel is level and has no give. the car will sit straight forever as long as there aren't and bumps in the road or anything. luckily we have a few roads that are smooth as glass around here.
#16
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well ive called around and found a race car shop, thats what i would call it even tho it make me feel like im five, with a super precise equipment for 100 bucks. hopefully they can tell me whats truely wrong with it
#17
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also before going any further why type of tires where they, for an idea of the wear characteristics of those particular tires
and btw i did burn through a set of all seasons in like 12,000 miles, but then again i did do a couple of burn outs on them though, so not really surprised on that though (but they do not have the feathering though, just bad camber wear, especially when you put like 1.3 degrees of camber on them)
and btw i did burn through a set of all seasons in like 12,000 miles, but then again i did do a couple of burn outs on them though, so not really surprised on that though (but they do not have the feathering though, just bad camber wear, especially when you put like 1.3 degrees of camber on them)
#18
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try aligning an audi after tie rod replacement, something like 2+ hours (so $200 or so) to properly align, cause you gotta set bumpsteer also
#19
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also before going any further why type of tires where they, for an idea of the wear characteristics of those particular tires
and btw i did burn through a set of all seasons in like 12,000 miles, but then again i did do a couple of burn outs on them though, so not really surprised on that though (but they do not have the feathering though, just bad camber wear, especially when you put like 1.3 degrees of camber on them)
and btw i did burn through a set of all seasons in like 12,000 miles, but then again i did do a couple of burn outs on them though, so not really surprised on that though (but they do not have the feathering though, just bad camber wear, especially when you put like 1.3 degrees of camber on them)
#20
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and most roads here have pot holes and such (or have such bad ruts from wear and tear, it just is like a skating rink when the snow freezes in those ruts)
try aligning an audi after tie rod replacement, something like 2+ hours (so $200 or so) to properly align, cause you gotta set bumpsteer also
try aligning an audi after tie rod replacement, something like 2+ hours (so $200 or so) to properly align, cause you gotta set bumpsteer also
yep i'll pass
#21
Three Wheelin'
As people mentioned make sure the suspension is still inline. If they are directional are they mounted or were they rotated the proper way? I have seen people fuck that up and it eats through tires like hell. Also driving styles would be nice.
#22
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yeah geneally i would not consider a falken as a higher end tire (but they should still be lasting longer though)
and i do not see a tread wear warranty on them yet, but i see a tread ware rating of 300, so they should at least last 20k if not around 30k (basically just add two 0's to the rating for tread life, it is VERY general though, and some brands are better then others though)
and i do not see a tread wear warranty on them yet, but i see a tread ware rating of 300, so they should at least last 20k if not around 30k (basically just add two 0's to the rating for tread life, it is VERY general though, and some brands are better then others though)
#23
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driving style = well im 18. is that enough lol?
no i normally drive conservatively unless im on an empty back road with lots of curves
#24
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yeah geneally i would not consider a falken as a higher end tire (but they should still be lasting longer though)
and i do not see a tread wear warranty on them yet, but i see a tread ware rating of 300, so they should at least last 20k if not around 30k (basically just add two 0's to the rating for tread life, it is VERY general though, and some brands are better then others though)
and i do not see a tread wear warranty on them yet, but i see a tread ware rating of 300, so they should at least last 20k if not around 30k (basically just add two 0's to the rating for tread life, it is VERY general though, and some brands are better then others though)
#26
Three Wheelin'
That would explain the life of the tires. Curvy roads put a lot of stress on fwd vehicles. You have the braking, driving, turning all done by the fronts. That puts a lot of stress on the front tires causing them to heat up and wear quicker than normal.
#28
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Ok so update:
Apparently the last guy i took my car to to get an alignment didnt install and/or took out and never replaced the "ez arm" that goes on our rear suspension that adjusts camber.
I didnt even know this existed until the morning.
any facts on what an "ez arm" does/is would be great.
TYIA
Apparently the last guy i took my car to to get an alignment didnt install and/or took out and never replaced the "ez arm" that goes on our rear suspension that adjusts camber.
I didnt even know this existed until the morning.
any facts on what an "ez arm" does/is would be great.
TYIA
#30
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ok that makes a lot more sense. just bought four new tires and getting a reputable alignment shop to do the alignment tomorrow morning.
thanks for the help guys gotta love the forum
thanks for the help guys gotta love the forum
#31
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that "ez arm" do you mean this...
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67095&cmd3=
or this...
http://www.ingallseng.com/38725-smar...-bushings.html
but as said camber is not adjustable from the factory though
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67095&cmd3=
or this...
http://www.ingallseng.com/38725-smar...-bushings.html
but as said camber is not adjustable from the factory though
#32
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that "ez arm" do you mean this...
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67095&cmd3=
or this...
http://www.ingallseng.com/38725-smar...-bushings.html
but as said camber is not adjustable from the factory though
http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=67095&cmd3=
or this...
http://www.ingallseng.com/38725-smar...-bushings.html
but as said camber is not adjustable from the factory though
#36
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and btw those ingall ones are the easier of the two to adjust
Last edited by friesm2000; 10-20-2010 at 10:21 PM.
#38
06 Anthracite TL
I have one question...as the toe is the only adjustment available in alignment without any aftermarket upgrades, how many miles do you have on the car, and has the shop investigated the car for any damage or looseness in the suspension parts? I'd hate to see you get a new set of tires, a fresh alignment, and have them wear only after 6000 miles again.
#39
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I have one question...as the toe is the only adjustment available in alignment without any aftermarket upgrades, how many miles do you have on the car, and has the shop investigated the car for any damage or looseness in the suspension parts? I'd hate to see you get a new set of tires, a fresh alignment, and have them wear only after 6000 miles again.
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Edit: OP, I don't see that your front tire wear is realted to your alignment, assuming the sheet you posted is good (i.e. the machine was porperly set up/calibrated).
I did not see in the thread (scanned it, so I might've missed it), but have you had your tires rotated? Is it possible you feathered them on the rear and then moved them to the front?
Last edited by Bearcat94; 10-21-2010 at 11:16 PM.