RV6 strut tower bar vs. stock
#1
RV6 strut tower bar vs. stock
Well I am not sure if this goes in performance or suspension but, whatever.
I was looking at the RV6 strut bar and wondering if it is more rigid than stock, because as you can see in the photo (from golfjwr install) that is is not nearly as large and much much thinner.
And this is the link to RV6 Performance, does it really only cost $15 for the bar?
http://www.r-.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=4081977
I was looking at the RV6 strut bar and wondering if it is more rigid than stock, because as you can see in the photo (from golfjwr install) that is is not nearly as large and much much thinner.
And this is the link to RV6 Performance, does it really only cost $15 for the bar?
http://www.r-.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=4081977
The following users liked this post:
Steven Maslauskas Jr. (12-01-2022)
#6
Team Owner
You're not going to feel a difference. Going from no brace to a brace you may feel a difference. Going from a brace to a slightly stiffer brace, you're not going to feel a difference. You would have to assume the stock brace is flexing too much as is. Also, think of the direction the shock towers try and flex. The majority of it is toward one another and away from one another. You already have a metal bar in between them in stock form. How much is a stiffer metal bar going to help?
Personally I would prefer the larger tubular bar with the load spread out over a smaller solid bar.
Personally I would prefer the larger tubular bar with the load spread out over a smaller solid bar.
The following users liked this post:
Steven Maslauskas Jr. (12-01-2022)
Trending Topics
#8
Team Owner
True. But none of those points has anything to do with performance. The biggest advantage of that bar is if you have a shock setup that won't clear the stock bar. In that case Richie's bar is a great buy. If the TL was engineered to have the brace, I wouldn't be one of the people removing the stock one just to have remotely adjustable shocks without something like Richie's bar to replace it with.
The following 2 users liked this post by I hate cars:
Steven Maslauskas Jr. (12-01-2022),
Storm3.5 (12-31-2020)
#10
Team Owner
A front swaybar in addition to a large rear swaybar will compliment each other. I'm running a 24mm rear and a solid 28mm front. They work very well together.
Adding just a front swaybar to a FWD car will add more understeer.
#11
6-SPEED LOVER
iTrader: (2)
A "strut bar" is a frame brace. A sway bar is a suspension component. Two very different things.
A front swaybar in addition to a large rear swaybar will compliment each other. I'm running a 24mm rear and a solid 28mm front. They work very well together.
Adding just a front swaybar to a FWD car will add more understeer.
A front swaybar in addition to a large rear swaybar will compliment each other. I'm running a 24mm rear and a solid 28mm front. They work very well together.
Adding just a front swaybar to a FWD car will add more understeer.
+1, i did my homework!
#14
Team Owner
That's assuming the stock bar flexes too much. I have a feeling it doesn't. It's mostly compression and stretching in which the stock bar is very rigid. For the little torsional movement, making it solid will increase rigidity but it will increase weight much more. The strength to weight ratio gain would be terrible. Maybe a thicker wall diameter would be a solution.
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (03-19-2012)
#17
Team Owner
The question is, how do you know it's more rigid than stock? There's a lot to be said for large diameter hollow tubing. It can be very rigid pound for pound.
#18
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
That's assuming the stock bar flexes too much. I have a feeling it doesn't. It's mostly compression and stretching in which the stock bar is very rigid. For the little torsional movement, making it solid will increase rigidity but it will increase weight much more. The strength to weight ratio gain would be terrible. Maybe a thicker wall diameter would be a solution.
#23
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Bringing this back from the dead.
I'm doing the Progress RSB and Type-S FSB here in a couple of weeks. And I noticed the type-s front strut bar is a different part number then the base.
Is it solid compared to the bases hollow like the fsb is? If it is, is it an upgrade? Or is the weight not worth it? Etc. Basically, I want to practically max out my suspension, per say, and was curious if this was worth the $45 and 3 minute install time...
2004 - #14 - 74180-SEP-A01
2008 Type-S - #13 - 74180-SEP-A10
I'm doing the Progress RSB and Type-S FSB here in a couple of weeks. And I noticed the type-s front strut bar is a different part number then the base.
Is it solid compared to the bases hollow like the fsb is? If it is, is it an upgrade? Or is the weight not worth it? Etc. Basically, I want to practically max out my suspension, per say, and was curious if this was worth the $45 and 3 minute install time...
2004 - #14 - 74180-SEP-A01
2008 Type-S - #13 - 74180-SEP-A10
#24
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^it's the same thing. don't waste your money.
#25
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
^Yea I was looking at it and figured the difference in part numbers is the apparent difference in mounting points on the bar itself. So...ok...thanks.
#26
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern ILLINOIS
Age: 62
Posts: 4,848
Received 133 Likes
on
129 Posts
When I installed Tein SS coilovers on my 06 6-speed manual, I never intended on getting the EDFC. But adding the 24mm Progress RSB with the Tein SS lowered 1.7 inches front and rear, with Yoko S-Drive 245/35/19" tires made a HUGE DIFFERENCE It made my 06 TL handle better then any FWD car I have owned. Never considered the RV6 strut bar. Didn't think it was needed.
Last edited by JD TL-S; 03-19-2012 at 04:57 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JD TL-S (03-20-2012)
#28
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
Do you think doing that would affect rigidity in the bar? Or does it not really even matter and it's a moot point?
I'd love to do that for quick strut access. Same with the rear shelf.
I'd love to do that for quick strut access. Same with the rear shelf.
#29
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^it won't affect it at all. lot's of people do that with their stock bars to gain access to the damper knobs.
#30
Chapter Leader (Mid-Atlantic Region)
iTrader: (4)
Yeah, im still trying to figure out how to do easy access to the rear without removing the seats
#33
Team Owner
I used a 1/2" bit to drill the stock bar out and had to finish it with a unibit. I chickened out and made the hole large enough to stick a custom tool through but not the knob that comes with the shocks. I'm sure it would be fine to make it large enough for the adjustment knob. Getting the hole in the right spot is important because it's going to take a much larger hole if you get it off just a little. That's another reason I didn't go full size with the factory knob, I was off a little when I drilled the hole.
I would be very surprised if even a 3/4" hole makes any difference in rigidity.
I would be very surprised if even a 3/4" hole makes any difference in rigidity.
#34
-------Tim-------
^IHC--any ideas/photos of this custom tool? I have a short factory koni adjustment knob for the rear, but they don't make a longer one. By this I mean longer than the supplied knob that come with the Koni's. Thnks
#35
My first ricer
iTrader: (4)
From the looks of it you could cut off almost the whole bump part and it would still be strong enough. I don't care about how it looks under the hood as it's just a DD that will get filthy, already have all the covers removed and extra wires running around. I'll have to raid my uncles garage to see if I can find a really large step drill bit and put the bar on his drill press.
#36
blah!
I just cut it with an angle grinder. Cut a square out.
I am considering this bar instead.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline...roductid=64861
Apparently solid bar? No hinges either. Its welded.
I am considering this bar instead.
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline...roductid=64861
Apparently solid bar? No hinges either. Its welded.
The following users liked this post:
silvrbreez (11-19-2013)
#37
This thread was a good find. I'm considering options now for my ISC N1 coilovers and being able to access the front knobs without having to remove the bar each time.
#40
over at the BMW forum, they say that even though the bar doesn't flex, the actual shock towers on the car do, and that's why they say unless there's a 3 point strut bar that bolts to the firewall as well, the regular 2 point strut bars aren't that good.