Review: Raxles (Update on Post #82)
07-20-2017, 02:22 PM
#41
Instructor
My Raxles order arrived while I was on a pretty long vacation and they will be installed tomorrow morning. I can't wait to not hear the darn clicking anymore and see if there is much difference between the OEM ones and Raxles.
Edit: sockr1, update your Photobucket account.
Edit: sockr1, update your Photobucket account.
07-20-2017, 02:27 PM
#42
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07-20-2017, 02:54 PM
#43
Safety Car
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
My Raxles order arrived while I was on a pretty long vacation and they will be installed tomorrow morning. I can't wait to not hear the darn clicking anymore and see if there is much difference between the OEM ones and Raxles.
Edit: sockr1, update your Photobucket account.
Edit: sockr1, update your Photobucket account.
07-22-2017, 11:03 AM
#44
Instructor
I had them installed yesterday. There was a small squeaking noise at first which it seemed like it was a little metal to metal but that eventually went away after driving home from Atlanta to Charlotte (260 miles). When I was in my neighborhood with the windows down I noticed there was still a clicking sound. It is only when I am going very slow or turning at a slow speed. It makes a creaking / clicking nose similar to my old ones with bad CV joints. Not sure if the Raxles are defective or if it is something else making the noise. I'm not sure what else it could be as the suspension is new ASPEC suspension, brakes are new and my mechanic saw nothing else that looked warn in the vicinity of where the axles are. I may have to e-mail Marty and see what he says. I didn't hear any noise other than the small squeak after leaving the shop but the clicking is definitely noticeable. I may take a quick video and upload it so it'll be available for you all to hear.
Any ideas here?
Any ideas here?
07-28-2017, 10:08 AM
#45
Safety Car
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
I had them installed yesterday. There was a small squeaking noise at first which it seemed like it was a little metal to metal but that eventually went away after driving home from Atlanta to Charlotte (260 miles). When I was in my neighborhood with the windows down I noticed there was still a clicking sound. It is only when I am going very slow or turning at a slow speed. It makes a creaking / clicking nose similar to my old ones with bad CV joints. Not sure if the Raxles are defective or if it is something else making the noise. I'm not sure what else it could be as the suspension is new ASPEC suspension, brakes are new and my mechanic saw nothing else that looked warn in the vicinity of where the axles are. I may have to e-mail Marty and see what he says. I didn't hear any noise other than the small squeak after leaving the shop but the clicking is definitely noticeable. I may take a quick video and upload it so it'll be available for you all to hear.
Any ideas here?
Any ideas here?
regarding your first squeaking noise, the shop that did mine heard the same noise on the test drive. so we did a 3 way call with marty and he said he had never heard of that before, so we decided to just keep driving and sure enough it just went away. pretty interesting that another TL owner had the exact same "break in" noise a few months after mine even though he supposedly had never heard this complaint before. everything is all good now though!
oh and photobucket photos were removed and flickr was used instead. happy to finally get some of my threads updated.
08-08-2017, 05:03 PM
#46
Instructor
are you still having the same noises/issues? my guess is that it would go away after some breaking in but maybe not.
regarding your first squeaking noise, the shop that did mine heard the same noise on the test drive. so we did a 3 way call with marty and he said he had never heard of that before, so we decided to just keep driving and sure enough it just went away. pretty interesting that another TL owner had the exact same "break in" noise a few months after mine even though he supposedly had never heard this complaint before. everything is all good now though!
oh and photobucket photos were removed and flickr was used instead. happy to finally get some of my threads updated.
regarding your first squeaking noise, the shop that did mine heard the same noise on the test drive. so we did a 3 way call with marty and he said he had never heard of that before, so we decided to just keep driving and sure enough it just went away. pretty interesting that another TL owner had the exact same "break in" noise a few months after mine even though he supposedly had never heard this complaint before. everything is all good now though!
oh and photobucket photos were removed and flickr was used instead. happy to finally get some of my threads updated.
08-16-2017, 12:30 PM
#47
buy the below from Rockauto
Product Detail
Product Detail
664221 for left
664223 for the right
The above numbers are of 6MT
Total shipped to your door....$130.89 after applying the 5% off coupon that you will find online.....
Cardone is very good quality and have been in the business of making drive shaft for over a decade.....I have used them and would use them again when I have to replace on my TL...... fit and fitment is next to OEM.....
good balance and top notch quality....compare $130 to $550.......no headache of core return or anything.....
Sandan
Product Detail
Product Detail
664221 for left
664223 for the right
The above numbers are of 6MT
Total shipped to your door....$130.89 after applying the 5% off coupon that you will find online.....
Cardone is very good quality and have been in the business of making drive shaft for over a decade.....I have used them and would use them again when I have to replace on my TL...... fit and fitment is next to OEM.....
good balance and top notch quality....compare $130 to $550.......no headache of core return or anything.....
Sandan
08-24-2017, 09:19 PM
#48
Racer
I've had the raxles in for about 5-6 months now, or roughly 9000 miles by my estimates. Unfortunately, since maybe after the first month of the install, I've been having vibration around 20-25mph. At first, I thought maybe it was due to a torque damper being broken, which resulted in potentially causing an aftermarket side motor mount to go out as well. However, finally, the vibrations became to unbearable and I finally opted to take it into a shop to try and diagnose the issue. They told me that they suspected it was either an axle, or some kind of bearing/support for the passenger side axle, and they wanted to replace it. Additionally, they asked if I had any sort of warranty on the part, to which I said yes, I do; let me call them.
I called Marty, and first and foremost he is a GREAT guy. Very understanding. He asked my name, and then asked about the problem I was experiencing (without ever asking what the car was), and before he even pulls up my info, he just asks, "is this for a manual TL?". He tells me that for whatever reason, the axles on at least the manual TLs have all been coming back to him with the same issues. He told me he would gladly send a replacement at no cost, but unfortunately he just is at a loss at what the cause is and can't say that I won't experience this issue again down the line. In fact, he even mentioned he has contemplated whether or not he should just stop doing axles for manual Tls altogether, since he's been getting so many of these back (he did assure me that he still would honor my warranty however)
I decided against getting another raxles replacement for the time being, and just had the shop source another one, regardless of whether or not it was aftermarket. In this particular instance, they used one by a manufacturer FEQ, to which I understand is Chinese-made. I'm Chinese too but I am weary of Chinese-made products, but at the same time if I bring in my own parts then I have no labor warranty whatsoever. Add to the fact that I'm paying full cost for the part that they source (~$180) despite me knowing that aftermarket axles can be had for roughly 1/2 - 1/3 of the cost, I still have them source it. The cost of peace of mind I guess, because at least I won't have to wait for the raxles to ship and everything will be covered under the 2 year warranty period.
The passenger axle is finally changed out, and upon inspection the inner joints are just slopping around too much, which shows that the axles are the cause of vibrations. I still have slight vibrations, but that most likely is due to the driver side still being the raxles. I'll get that changed out once I'm not in a time crunch to get my car back.
FWIW I've heard great things about Raxles not just on this forum but also just in general research, seeing the name pop up in other forums. And as others have attested, Marty is a outstanding guy, and I'm really trying not to bash the company. The fact that he's still willing to stand by his warranty, to me, is just stellar. Marty really does take the time to listen to what's going on, and will do whatever he can to try and help out. If you currently have raxles and 6MT that are working perfectly, that is fantastic! But to others, just be a bit careful, as it sounds like our particular cars just may not be cut out for these due to poor design of the axles. If you can install them yourself, then you won't lose much if you have to get a replacement axle. But for others that bring their own parts to mechanics, You may be on the hook for extra labor costs if the shop only warranties things that they source themselves.
I called Marty, and first and foremost he is a GREAT guy. Very understanding. He asked my name, and then asked about the problem I was experiencing (without ever asking what the car was), and before he even pulls up my info, he just asks, "is this for a manual TL?". He tells me that for whatever reason, the axles on at least the manual TLs have all been coming back to him with the same issues. He told me he would gladly send a replacement at no cost, but unfortunately he just is at a loss at what the cause is and can't say that I won't experience this issue again down the line. In fact, he even mentioned he has contemplated whether or not he should just stop doing axles for manual Tls altogether, since he's been getting so many of these back (he did assure me that he still would honor my warranty however)
I decided against getting another raxles replacement for the time being, and just had the shop source another one, regardless of whether or not it was aftermarket. In this particular instance, they used one by a manufacturer FEQ, to which I understand is Chinese-made. I'm Chinese too but I am weary of Chinese-made products, but at the same time if I bring in my own parts then I have no labor warranty whatsoever. Add to the fact that I'm paying full cost for the part that they source (~$180) despite me knowing that aftermarket axles can be had for roughly 1/2 - 1/3 of the cost, I still have them source it. The cost of peace of mind I guess, because at least I won't have to wait for the raxles to ship and everything will be covered under the 2 year warranty period.
The passenger axle is finally changed out, and upon inspection the inner joints are just slopping around too much, which shows that the axles are the cause of vibrations. I still have slight vibrations, but that most likely is due to the driver side still being the raxles. I'll get that changed out once I'm not in a time crunch to get my car back.
FWIW I've heard great things about Raxles not just on this forum but also just in general research, seeing the name pop up in other forums. And as others have attested, Marty is a outstanding guy, and I'm really trying not to bash the company. The fact that he's still willing to stand by his warranty, to me, is just stellar. Marty really does take the time to listen to what's going on, and will do whatever he can to try and help out. If you currently have raxles and 6MT that are working perfectly, that is fantastic! But to others, just be a bit careful, as it sounds like our particular cars just may not be cut out for these due to poor design of the axles. If you can install them yourself, then you won't lose much if you have to get a replacement axle. But for others that bring their own parts to mechanics, You may be on the hook for extra labor costs if the shop only warranties things that they source themselves.
09-01-2017, 02:01 PM
#49
Racer
I've had the raxles in for about 5-6 months now, or roughly 9000 miles by my estimates. Unfortunately, since maybe after the first month of the install, I've been having vibration around 20-25mph. At first, I thought maybe it was due to a torque damper being broken, which resulted in potentially causing an aftermarket side motor mount to go out as well. However, finally, the vibrations became to unbearable and I finally opted to take it into a shop to try and diagnose the issue. They told me that they suspected it was either an axle, or some kind of bearing/support for the passenger side axle, and they wanted to replace it. Additionally, they asked if I had any sort of warranty on the part, to which I said yes, I do; let me call them.
I called Marty, and first and foremost he is a GREAT guy. Very understanding. He asked my name, and then asked about the problem I was experiencing (without ever asking what the car was), and before he even pulls up my info, he just asks, "is this for a manual TL?". He tells me that for whatever reason, the axles on at least the manual TLs have all been coming back to him with the same issues. He told me he would gladly send a replacement at no cost, but unfortunately he just is at a loss at what the cause is and can't say that I won't experience this issue again down the line. In fact, he even mentioned he has contemplated whether or not he should just stop doing axles for manual Tls altogether, since he's been getting so many of these back (he did assure me that he still would honor my warranty however)
I decided against getting another raxles replacement for the time being, and just had the shop source another one, regardless of whether or not it was aftermarket. In this particular instance, they used one by a manufacturer FEQ, to which I understand is Chinese-made. I'm Chinese too but I am weary of Chinese-made products, but at the same time if I bring in my own parts then I have no labor warranty whatsoever. Add to the fact that I'm paying full cost for the part that they source (~$180) despite me knowing that aftermarket axles can be had for roughly 1/2 - 1/3 of the cost, I still have them source it. The cost of peace of mind I guess, because at least I won't have to wait for the raxles to ship and everything will be covered under the 2 year warranty period.
The passenger axle is finally changed out, and upon inspection the inner joints are just slopping around too much, which shows that the axles are the cause of vibrations. I still have slight vibrations, but that most likely is due to the driver side still being the raxles. I'll get that changed out once I'm not in a time crunch to get my car back.
FWIW I've heard great things about Raxles not just on this forum but also just in general research, seeing the name pop up in other forums. And as others have attested, Marty is a outstanding guy, and I'm really trying not to bash the company. The fact that he's still willing to stand by his warranty, to me, is just stellar. Marty really does take the time to listen to what's going on, and will do whatever he can to try and help out. If you currently have raxles and 6MT that are working perfectly, that is fantastic! But to others, just be a bit careful, as it sounds like our particular cars just may not be cut out for these due to poor design of the axles. If you can install them yourself, then you won't lose much if you have to get a replacement axle. But for others that bring their own parts to mechanics, You may be on the hook for extra labor costs if the shop only warranties things that they source themselves.
I called Marty, and first and foremost he is a GREAT guy. Very understanding. He asked my name, and then asked about the problem I was experiencing (without ever asking what the car was), and before he even pulls up my info, he just asks, "is this for a manual TL?". He tells me that for whatever reason, the axles on at least the manual TLs have all been coming back to him with the same issues. He told me he would gladly send a replacement at no cost, but unfortunately he just is at a loss at what the cause is and can't say that I won't experience this issue again down the line. In fact, he even mentioned he has contemplated whether or not he should just stop doing axles for manual Tls altogether, since he's been getting so many of these back (he did assure me that he still would honor my warranty however)
I decided against getting another raxles replacement for the time being, and just had the shop source another one, regardless of whether or not it was aftermarket. In this particular instance, they used one by a manufacturer FEQ, to which I understand is Chinese-made. I'm Chinese too but I am weary of Chinese-made products, but at the same time if I bring in my own parts then I have no labor warranty whatsoever. Add to the fact that I'm paying full cost for the part that they source (~$180) despite me knowing that aftermarket axles can be had for roughly 1/2 - 1/3 of the cost, I still have them source it. The cost of peace of mind I guess, because at least I won't have to wait for the raxles to ship and everything will be covered under the 2 year warranty period.
The passenger axle is finally changed out, and upon inspection the inner joints are just slopping around too much, which shows that the axles are the cause of vibrations. I still have slight vibrations, but that most likely is due to the driver side still being the raxles. I'll get that changed out once I'm not in a time crunch to get my car back.
FWIW I've heard great things about Raxles not just on this forum but also just in general research, seeing the name pop up in other forums. And as others have attested, Marty is a outstanding guy, and I'm really trying not to bash the company. The fact that he's still willing to stand by his warranty, to me, is just stellar. Marty really does take the time to listen to what's going on, and will do whatever he can to try and help out. If you currently have raxles and 6MT that are working perfectly, that is fantastic! But to others, just be a bit careful, as it sounds like our particular cars just may not be cut out for these due to poor design of the axles. If you can install them yourself, then you won't lose much if you have to get a replacement axle. But for others that bring their own parts to mechanics, You may be on the hook for extra labor costs if the shop only warranties things that they source themselves.
Marty is also sending me a new axle for my passenger side. I drive a 5AT and have been having shaking issues while accelerating since before and after replacing my axles. For those who are having issues with shaking during acceleration, it may not be your axles. What Marty told me was it's almost impossible to replicate the same symptom with two different axles.
I have ordered an OEM intermediate shaft and will be replacing that along with my passenger axle, hopefully, next weekend. I will do my best to report back the results.
On the topic - When I discussed with Marty - he told me he had stopped making axles for other Honda's, specifically the Oddysey and CRV. He said a lot of them came back too. Seems like Honda's just don't respond well to aftermarket axles. However, if the intermediate shaft bearing theory holds, maybe it's not the axles...
Last edited by NoTLoud; 09-01-2017 at 02:06 PM.
09-01-2017, 03:46 PM
#50
Race Director
But Raxles aren't aftermarket axles. They are OEM axles with what is claimed as superior joints and grease....
So the issue with Raxles may indeed be something in the redesigned "superior" joint, not the shaft???
So the issue with Raxles may indeed be something in the redesigned "superior" joint, not the shaft???
Last edited by nfnsquared; 09-01-2017 at 03:49 PM.
09-03-2017, 08:54 AM
#51
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
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Paul, our star master mechanic in Northern NJ, along with my best buddy from high school who owned and operated an auto parts store for almost 30 years, only recommend installing new, not rebuilt shafts as they've both seen too many rebuilt ones go bad. Doesn't matter which brand you choose, their bottom line is ONLY USE NEW ONES. Rockauto seems to have the best price on the new (not rebuilt) Cardones, $53.79 for the left and $61.79 for the right. At those prices, why take a chance on rebuilds?
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09-05-2017, 01:51 AM
#52
Racer
Paul, our star master mechanic in Northern NJ, along with my best buddy from high school who owned and operated an auto parts store for almost 30 years, only recommend installing new, not rebuilt shafts as they've both seen too many rebuilt ones go bad. Doesn't matter which brand you choose, their bottom line is ONLY USE NEW ONES. Rockauto seems to have the best price on the new (not rebuilt) Cardones, $53.79 for the left and $61.79 for the right. At those prices, why take a chance on rebuilds?
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09-05-2017, 09:39 AM
#53
Head a da Family
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for me personally, i'll try to "upgrade" a part if it's available. Going by the infinite wisdom of the internet, i did think that raxles would meet expectations, but sadly they did not. I would rather stay away from feq if i could, as i don't think that a chinese-brand axle would be the oem supplier for honda, but the only reason why i relented was because although i'm paying near-oem price for each axle, the shop that did the install will warranty the labor and parts on this for 2years/24k miles.
09-08-2017, 11:01 AM
#55
Racer
With hurricane Irma coming in, sadly my intermediate shaft has been delayed in shipping. It originally got delayed because Delray needed to source a part from Honda's warehouse and now the hurricane. My luck, man...
I will definitely report back once I get that shaft and passenger axle replaced again.
09-22-2017, 02:32 PM
#56
Racer
Okay, I got the intermediate shaft replaced this past weekend. It was definitely the source of 90% of my shaking during acceleration. Tons of play in the bearing. I can still feel a little shaking, especially right after shifting into 2nd gear in my 5AT. It's annoying, but much improved. I would attribute some of that to being lowered. Potentially a bad rear engine mount. I dunno, it's a lot better though.
I was getting a lot of vibration in the floor of the car at highway speeds. Those are gone now. Car feels very smooth at all speeds except slight shaking from a dead stop and at the bottom of second. Overall, I am happy for now, but things could be smoother.
I was getting a lot of vibration in the floor of the car at highway speeds. Those are gone now. Car feels very smooth at all speeds except slight shaking from a dead stop and at the bottom of second. Overall, I am happy for now, but things could be smoother.
01-21-2020, 09:07 AM
#57
Just ordered a set for my 2012 TSX Tech Wagon
70K miles and the half shafts started failing around 60k. INEXCUSABLE. I have had 3 FWD vehicle before this. 1996 Saturn SW2, 200something Mazda Protege5, 2009 Mazda 3S wagon. I kept all of them WELL into 100K+ miles and NONE of them had half shaft issues. Same geography, same driving style, no suspension mods. These would be considered cheap cars... so far they have been better vehicles than my $$$$$$$ Acura......
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
01-21-2020, 09:13 AM
#58
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70K miles and the half shafts started failing around 60k. INEXCUSABLE. I have had 3 FWD vehicle before this. 1996 Saturn SW2, 200something Mazda Protege5, 2009 Mazda 3S wagon. I kept all of them WELL into 100K+ miles and NONE of them had half shaft issues. Same geography, same driving style, no suspension mods. These would be considered cheap cars... so far they have been better vehicles than my $$$$$$$ Acura......
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
01-22-2020, 10:37 AM
#60
Race Director
70K miles and the half shafts started failing around 60k. INEXCUSABLE. I have had 3 FWD vehicle before this. 1996 Saturn SW2, 200something Mazda Protege5, 2009 Mazda 3S wagon. I kept all of them WELL into 100K+ miles and NONE of them had half shaft issues. Same geography, same driving style, no suspension mods. These would be considered cheap cars... so far they have been better vehicles than my $$$$$$$ Acura......
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
I just ordered a set of Raxles. Marty was awesome to talk to. OEM would have been $1100+++ just for the parts cheapest I could find online.
He had them in stock and said he could ship them today!!!
01-22-2020, 11:04 AM
#62
Latent car nut
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The axles I used to replace the OEM units were new DuraLast axles from AutoZone purchased from another member here who did a warranty replacement on them and then never used them. While their shimmy characteristics were better than the used OEM axles, it was still quite noticeable climbing hills and accelerating.
The good news is I junked the DuraLast axles after less than 20,000 miles and replaced them with new APWI units; this has made my car almost vibration free in all driving phases. I still feel a hint of vibration every now and again and am wondering if the intermediate shaft might be to blame for that.
As things stand now, the mileage on my car is in the mid-160,000 mile range and given how smooth the car is to drive, I am in no hurry to swap out the intermediate shaft any time soon. I figure about two more years before I'll need the next timing belt, at that point I'll have all of the front oil seals and the oil pump seal addressed (some are already starting to leak), and I might just bite the bullet and do the axles and intermediate shaft at the same time.
01-22-2020, 12:09 PM
#63
Y'all are going to keep chewing up axles if your intermediate shaft bearing needs service.
Always replace all 3 together when you have vibrations:
LH axle
RH axle
Intermediate shaft bearing (and seal)
Tons of stories about, "I replaced my axles and the vibration came back a few K miles later". Nobody's replacing intermediate shaft bearings.
Also, aftermarket new or rebuilt axles that use a re-ground cup will only be vibration free for the short term. The cups need a proper hardening treatment to last.
I rebuild my own with OEM components. And I realize that's not practical....but its the best way to go.
Always replace all 3 together when you have vibrations:
LH axle
RH axle
Intermediate shaft bearing (and seal)
Tons of stories about, "I replaced my axles and the vibration came back a few K miles later". Nobody's replacing intermediate shaft bearings.
Also, aftermarket new or rebuilt axles that use a re-ground cup will only be vibration free for the short term. The cups need a proper hardening treatment to last.
I rebuild my own with OEM components. And I realize that's not practical....but its the best way to go.
01-22-2020, 12:19 PM
#64
Latent car nut
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Y'all are going to keep chewing up axles if your intermediate shaft bearing needs service.
Always replace all 3 together when you have vibrations:
LH axle
RH axle
Intermediate shaft bearing (and seal)
Tons of stories about, "I replaced my axles and the vibration came back a few K miles later". Nobody's replacing intermediate shaft bearings.
Also, aftermarket new or rebuilt axles that use a re-ground cup will only be vibration free for the short term. The cups need a proper hardening treatment to last.
I rebuild my own with OEM components. And I realize that's not practical....but its the best way to go.
Always replace all 3 together when you have vibrations:
LH axle
RH axle
Intermediate shaft bearing (and seal)
Tons of stories about, "I replaced my axles and the vibration came back a few K miles later". Nobody's replacing intermediate shaft bearings.
Also, aftermarket new or rebuilt axles that use a re-ground cup will only be vibration free for the short term. The cups need a proper hardening treatment to last.
I rebuild my own with OEM components. And I realize that's not practical....but its the best way to go.
- This is the first time I have ever heard a recommendation to replace the intermediate shaft bearing each time axles are replaced.
- In the case of my DuraLast axles, there was no gap between the axle replacement and feeling the vibration; the new axles went in and while the vibration improved dramatically over the exhausted OEM axles, there was still vibration.
- When I put the APWI axles in after 20,000 miles on the DuraLast units, I had not noticed any appreciable increase in vibration over those miles.
- The new(ish) APWI axles now have upwards of 12,000 miles on them and are still just as smooth as they were the day they went in.
- Do you have a link to the rationale on why one would replace the intermediate shaft bearing so frequently? I'm not saying you're wrong; I'd just like to edumacate myself.
01-22-2020, 12:25 PM
#65
Safety Car
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
i've heard of others having to replace the int shaft as well. when i replace the axles again i will make sure to do the int shaft. it's another 250, bringing the total for a 6mt type s axle set to around 750 before tax (250ish each axles and 250 for int shaft)
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-blown-854928/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-blown-854928/
01-22-2020, 12:52 PM
#66
Interesting input on the subject. A few comments in no particular order:
- This is the first time I have ever heard a recommendation to replace the intermediate shaft bearing each time axles are replaced.
- In the case of my DuraLast axles, there was no gap between the axle replacement and feeling the vibration; the new axles went in and while the vibration improved dramatically over the exhausted OEM axles, there was still vibration.
- When I put the APWI axles in after 20,000 miles on the DuraLast units, I had not noticed any appreciable increase in vibration over those miles.
- The new(ish) APWI axles now have upwards of 12,000 miles on them and are still just as smooth as they were the day they went in.
- Do you have a link to the rationale on why one would replace the intermediate shaft bearing so frequently? I'm not saying you're wrong; I'd just like to edumacate myself.
Your factory axles and bearing probably didn't start causing vibrations until like 100k or so.
Axle vibrations wear out the bearing. And the bearing having slop causes more wear on the axles.
So when vibrations start, all of it is suspect, and in order to break that vicious cycle....replace all 3. Knowwhatimean?
i've heard of others having to replace the int shaft as well. when i replace the axles again i will make sure to do the int shaft. it's another 250, bringing the total for a 6mt type s axle set to around 750 before tax (250ish each axles and 250 for int shaft)
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-blown-854928/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...-blown-854928/
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sockr1 (01-22-2020)
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gatrhumpy (01-25-2020)
01-22-2020, 01:04 PM
#68
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I was saying that if you have a vibration, you should replace the intermediate shaft bearing at the same time as the axles.
Your factory axles and bearing probably didn't start causing vibrations until like 100k or so.
Axle vibrations wear out the bearing. And the bearing having slop causes more wear on the axles.
So when vibrations start, all of it is suspect, and in order to break that vicious cycle....replace all 3. Knowwhatimean?
The intermediate shaft bearing is like $30...and the seal is under $10. Idk what labour charge is to press/re-press, though. If labour is more than ~$200, then it makes more sense to just buy the whole assembly.
Your factory axles and bearing probably didn't start causing vibrations until like 100k or so.
Axle vibrations wear out the bearing. And the bearing having slop causes more wear on the axles.
So when vibrations start, all of it is suspect, and in order to break that vicious cycle....replace all 3. Knowwhatimean?
The intermediate shaft bearing is like $30...and the seal is under $10. Idk what labour charge is to press/re-press, though. If labour is more than ~$200, then it makes more sense to just buy the whole assembly.
is it hard to get that bearing out, is it susceptible to damaging it during removal/insertion?
Last edited by sockr1; 01-22-2020 at 01:09 PM.
01-22-2020, 01:19 PM
#70
With even a very small press, its SUPER easy to do the bearing. I did not use a press, as I did this whole thing at my condo....but I wouldn't recommend my lifestyle (in general) to anyone else.
I'll edit the video at some point and post it.
01-22-2020, 02:00 PM
#77
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01-22-2020, 02:01 PM
#78
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Haha I just did this on 2 TSX's and I shot the video whilst doing it. I home-raxled the axles...and installed new bearings.
With even a very small press, its SUPER easy to do the bearing. I did not use a press, as I did this whole thing at my condo....but I wouldn't recommend my lifestyle (in general) to anyone else.
I'll edit the video at some point and post it.
With even a very small press, its SUPER easy to do the bearing. I did not use a press, as I did this whole thing at my condo....but I wouldn't recommend my lifestyle (in general) to anyone else.
I'll edit the video at some point and post it.
i'm guessing you used a large a** socket to get it in?
01-22-2020, 03:42 PM
#80