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UPDATE: after 15k miles and 3 years, my raxles have gone bad. i do not recommend raxles if you have a lowered car. our cars are very sensitive to axles especially when lowered (i'm not slammed by any means), so i only recommend new oem for a worry free purchase.
some people have luck with other cheaper brands but they are hit or miss. oem is your least risky choice and what i'll be going with in the next month. i'll also change out my int shaft bearing if i can as well for a fresh clean start.
if somebody wants to use my old 6mt raxles to rebuild or whatever, just let me know otherwise they are going in the trash. my car vibrates so badly on wot and even more so after 60mph. exact same feeling i had with oem axles when they were bad but at least they lasted 113k miles before that
mods can you update title of thread to say "update on post 82"
@sockr1 dude...I was so bitter that I bought raxles...$700 out of pocket IIRC and I found out AFTER that I had not core refund
because they were chinese shit ones on the car.
Then Austin tells me he had to have one of them replaced already. WTF.
S2000 people seem to have had good luck using OEM cores and pairing them with redline CV2 grease.
This is similar to what Raxles does, I think?
I've been doing the same with a few TSX axles. They're smooth for now, but they're only a few K miles old.
Apparently, the Honda inner CV grease is the weak point. It allows galling and pitting of the cups.
Technically, redline CV2 isn't right for the inner joints that Honda uses. But...you know...YOLO (you only lubricate once).
some photos below:
Taking apart low mile OEM cores.
100K mile old cups with MASSIVE pitting
Re-loading low mile OEM cores with redline CV2
that's awesome! are they pretty easy to take apart? if they are, i'll take my raxles apart and put up pics here, i'm super interested to see how they look.
any pics on how to get the int shaft bearing on and off? at a super quick glance the service manual makes it seem a little complicated but maybe it's not? what's the best way to get it off without damaging?
on a side note, what was the next step job wise after engineering? i'm in a similar position (manager of engineering team) and just curious
Any ape (even one like me) can take the bearing out of the housing. Just smack smack with a hammer. Pressing it back in takes a small amount of finesse...but...not necessary even a different type of ape. Its pretty simple.
If you have a press, its super easy.
If I ever get a chance to create a highlight reel, I'll post the video.
And I'm in program management now. Suit up...
and assemble teams.
UPDATE: after 15k miles and 3 years, my raxles have gone bad. i do not recommend raxles if you have a lowered car. our cars are very sensitive to axles especially when lowered (i'm not slammed by any means), so i only recommend new oem for a worry free purchase.
some people have luck with other cheaper brands but they are hit or miss. oem is your least risky choice and what i'll be going with in the next month. i'll also change out my int shaft bearing if i can as well for a fresh clean start.
if somebody wants to use my old 6mt raxles to rebuild or whatever, just let me know otherwise they are going in the trash. my car vibrates so badly on wot and even more so after 60mph. exact same feeling i had with oem axles when they were bad but at least they lasted 113k miles before that
mods can you update title of thread to say "update on post 82"
Hmmm. That's not good at all. Since Raxles are OEM shafts with reworked joints/grease, I doubt that OEM axles will last any longer than the Raxles did with your current suspension set up. I'd probably just go with aftermarket axles.
If you can afford to have some down time on the TL, I'd pull the Raxles and take a look at the joints to see what's up. As previously mentioned, if you have the time, you could rebuild the joints yourself, but I'm not sure that the rebuilds will last any longer than OEM, Raxle or aftermarket joints would and I doubt that the cost and time involved in a rebuild would be any cheaper than the cost of a set of aftermarket axles.
If you try the rebuild route, there are several good youtube vids on how to do it. Good luck! Keep us updated..
I really have to say that after 60K miles I am super disappointed in the raxles...discovered over the weekend that the driver side inner seal boot is torn and flinging...
and I'm assuming that sort of failure is why Austin had them replace the passenger side axle with oem only 2 months ago, as well. For something I paid nearly $700
(didn't have a good core for Marty) that is supposedly better and has better boots and grease and the fact that the car isn't slammed at all anymore...that is very disappointing.
Anyway... @BROlando
Inner boot is torn on the driver side...
This it?
I'm not afraid to work on it...especially since it's not my only car (or daily driver with 4 doors, for that matter).
I want to learn and I have access to a press.
I'm sure Raxles make a decent product, but my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years and Paul, our start master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, BOTH advise against using rebuilt axles. I have APWI's from rockauto. They're cheap and work just fine.
.
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I'm sure Raxles make a decent product, but my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years and Paul, our start master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, BOTH advise against using rebuilt axles. I have APWI's from rockauto. They're cheap and work just fine.
.
.
Yup, I'm running them as well and they are great; much better than the crappy DuraLast axles I put on in the Spring of 2018.
Last edited by horseshoez; 02-06-2020 at 10:17 AM.
"rebuilt" has different meanings. A rebuilt set of parts store axles is probably junk. They're probably made with re-ground cups that will pit quickly.
If you're properly rebuilding from OEM cup cores, then I have no idea why a new, commercially available aftermarket set would be better.
I'm not afraid to work on it...especially since it's not my only car (or daily driver with 4 doors, for that matter).
I want to learn and I have access to a press.
Nice!
I've never seen one of these, an axle rebuild, before or intermediate shaft bearing R/R. Would like to see how it turns out. Looks like it could be another 'DIY' thread for you. Document with plenty of pics.
Nice!
I've never seen one of these, an axle rebuild, before or intermediate shaft bearing R/R. Would like to see how it turns out. Looks like it could be another 'DIY' thread for you. Document with plenty of pics.
Originally Posted by rockstar143
waiting for nobrolando to respond to my questions on his opinion from the post above before I order everything!
yes a DIY and some pics/videos would be awesome! i'm going to have to do this in about a month
I'm sure Raxles make a decent product, but my best bud from high school who owned an auto parts store for 25 years and Paul, our start master mechanic here in Nawth Jerzy, BOTH advise against using rebuilt axles. I have APWI's from rockauto. They're cheap and work just fine.
.
.
Originally Posted by horseshoez
Yup, I'm running them as well and they are great; much better than the crappy DuraLast axles I put on in the Spring of 2018.
I have heard nothing but glowing reviews of APWI axles and I am thrilled with them as well. I have heard very mixed reviews of Cardone.
Originally Posted by rockstar143
Better question, how long have you guys had those in trouble free?
That's a killer price on them at $40
I cannot speak for @DMZ (I suspect he has many more miles on his than I have on mine), however, I have well over 10,000 miles on mine and they are still silky smooth.
I did a quick search on google for APWI axles and quite a few of the reviews didn't look good at all which isn't surprising due to the cost of the axle. One guy said when he got the axle the boot was torn as soon as he opened the box although the box didn't have any damage at all, another guy said the axle was bent right out of the box so he replaced it with another one, 2k miles later the boot was torn.
I need to replace the passenger side axle on my 09 camry, I am thinking about going the aftermarket route and I might just get a new (not rebuilt) one from NAPA or advance auto that way if there are any issues I can just walk in and swap it out and not have to mess with with shipping and down time.
I bet you they are fine but quality control probably isn't great...
then again we're all in here bitching about oem and raxles...which cost a TON more, so.
01-28-2020, 12:12 PM
Document with plenty of pics. 
