Reduce Body-roll
#1
Jimmy
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Reduce Bodyroll
Would my TL have less bodyroll if I installed Comptech springs and lowered the car 1" or if I installed front and rear Comptech sway bars?
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Thanks
#2
Jimmy
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Reduce Body-roll
Would my TL have less bodyroll if I installed Comptech springs and lowered the car 1" or if I installed front and rear Comptech sway bars?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
tehLEGOman
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Substantially less.
#5
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sway bar is by far the better investment if you are looking to lessen body roll. as thats what sway bars do.
adding springs will also help reduce roll as the car will be lowered (lower center of gravity) and the stiffer springs resist motion better, but with a firmer ride... adding both would make for a harsher ride (but probably still acceptable). but would help with excellent handling, as less body roll, better front to rear control, and a much more planted ride.... the racing tl had a similar setup.... just be aware that the lowered springs will probably lessen the life of your stock struts as there not designed to be lowered.
adding springs will also help reduce roll as the car will be lowered (lower center of gravity) and the stiffer springs resist motion better, but with a firmer ride... adding both would make for a harsher ride (but probably still acceptable). but would help with excellent handling, as less body roll, better front to rear control, and a much more planted ride.... the racing tl had a similar setup.... just be aware that the lowered springs will probably lessen the life of your stock struts as there not designed to be lowered.
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#8
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Originally Posted by ONAGER
also auto or manual?
auto has a smaller rear sway bar then then a manual. so it will benifit most from a sway bar swap
auto has a smaller rear sway bar then then a manual. so it will benifit most from a sway bar swap
Is there any benefit on swapping the sway bars on 6MT? Is it worth it on the manual?
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narmeen
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Originally Posted by narmeen
Is there any benefit on swapping the sway bars on 6MT? Is it worth it on the manual?
Thanks,
narmeen
Thanks,
narmeen
i f you search there are a few threads as to the torrsional difference between stock and upgraded bars
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https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...highlight=sway
here is the thread i was looking for.... in the middle they start talking about the computech stiffness versus stock. pretty informative but very technical
basically the computech bar is stiffer then both the stock auto or manual
here is the thread i was looking for.... in the middle they start talking about the computech stiffness versus stock. pretty informative but very technical
basically the computech bar is stiffer then both the stock auto or manual
#12
Jimmy
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rear, front or both
I have read a lot of threads about rear sway bar benefits and not many about front sway bars. Do you think installing a comptech rear sway bar for $100 is enough of a upgrade or would you recommend spending another $200 to have the front COmptech sway bar installed as well?
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Thanks
#13
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IMO, and the opinions of many other autocrossers, sway bars should be the last thing you upgrade on your suspension. But that's for premium handling. If that's not the case for you, go ahead and get the sway bars. If you're trying to induce oversteer, get a thicker rear sway bar. If you're trying to induce understeer, get a thicker front sway bar. Getting a thicker front sway bar is usually not recommended on a FWD car.
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i would not recomend a front sway bar in a fwd car.... especially one that is in a auto... the reason? understeer.... stiff front sway bars tend to lift the inside tire in a turn.... as you may know if you lift that inside tire, all your traction for steering and acceleration is now being handled by that one front tire.... this will cause that tire to be overpowered and the car will tend to slide to the out side of the corner, or "understeer to the outside. in a rear wheel drive car its not as bad as the fronts steer, and the rears provide propulsion. also in a manual tl, the lsd helps to make sure both tires are getting power instead of just one....
a thicker rear bar, allows the outside rear suspension less freedom of movement and can lift the inside rear tire in a hard corner. this too lessens the amt of traction and the car will rotate a little more freely. hence the name oversteer, as the back will steer or rotate around the front. which is good with fwd as they tend to understeer before they oversteer. just dont get to crazy or you will swap ends
you dont want to get to crazy in either catagory and you want the car to have "balance".
a thicker rear bar, allows the outside rear suspension less freedom of movement and can lift the inside rear tire in a hard corner. this too lessens the amt of traction and the car will rotate a little more freely. hence the name oversteer, as the back will steer or rotate around the front. which is good with fwd as they tend to understeer before they oversteer. just dont get to crazy or you will swap ends
you dont want to get to crazy in either catagory and you want the car to have "balance".
#17
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Originally Posted by TLover
IMO, and the opinions of many other autocrossers, sway bars should be the last thing you upgrade on your suspension.
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Originally Posted by PoochaKannInc
Not sure I understand this statement. Please explain.
#19
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Originally Posted by TLover
Springs, shocks, tires and strut bars should be done before sway bars. Most of the time, after upgrading those components, most people relaize they don't need a sway bar. On a FWD car, a rear sway bar -- I don't recommend a thicker front bar -- can make the rear end come around too much. But it does depend on your driving style. I would add a bigger rear sway bar until after a upgraded all the other components first. When I autocrossed by CRX and GTI VR6, I did add a rear sway bar to get the rear end to come around, but I purchased an adjustable one.
good post, i think i would have to agree... took my svt contour auto crossing a couple of times it was alot of fun. i upgraded the swaybar pretty quick as the stock suspension was pretty worked out from svt. i just needed it to rotate a little faster, which the sway bar gave me, along with less roll
#20
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Originally Posted by TLover
Springs, shocks, tires and strut bars should be done before sway bars. Most of the time, after upgrading those components, most people relaize they don't need a sway bar.
I agree with you now that I understand what you meant...to me however, I think tires are the most important. After which the shocks. People are too eager to change out the springs which lowers the car and the center of gravity, but are still riding on over-damped shocks.
#21
i think TLover hit the nail right on the head as far as how to set up your suspension for your own particular style of driving. i just wanted to add my experience with the A-Spec suspension.
i have read alot about the thicker RSB and contemplated getting one for my 04 Auto. After more time in the drivers seat under many different types of road conditions i don't think i want one. the car rotates very well, just the way it is and is very well planted, (relatively nuetral) in higher speed cornering. if i wanted to autocross i might add the RSB to really have the rear come around quickly but in real world driving you don't want this. As already explained by ONAGER, the thicker RSB will limit the rear suspension's ability to work the way it was designed to and this might produce an unwanted result with the A-Spec for street driving.
if your front end dives when you try to take a fast corner, maybe a RSB will help you some but for the A-Spec suspension, i don't think it needs this at all. i hope this might help someone considering their options. Put in more seat time and really consider what you want before you make any final decisions.
i have read alot about the thicker RSB and contemplated getting one for my 04 Auto. After more time in the drivers seat under many different types of road conditions i don't think i want one. the car rotates very well, just the way it is and is very well planted, (relatively nuetral) in higher speed cornering. if i wanted to autocross i might add the RSB to really have the rear come around quickly but in real world driving you don't want this. As already explained by ONAGER, the thicker RSB will limit the rear suspension's ability to work the way it was designed to and this might produce an unwanted result with the A-Spec for street driving.
if your front end dives when you try to take a fast corner, maybe a RSB will help you some but for the A-Spec suspension, i don't think it needs this at all. i hope this might help someone considering their options. Put in more seat time and really consider what you want before you make any final decisions.
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