BuffBakerGA

iTrader: (2)

I do take a lot of twisties on the way to and from work so stiff would be fun but I also don't want to over stress my rear suspension/endlinks... What setting did you choose and why?

I hate cars

I've done tons and tons of testing on this.

If you have an auto with the 25mm hollow FSB, use the soft position or you will actually be slower in the turns due to the slightly tail happy nature.

If you have a manual with the 27.2mm hollow front bar, use either the soft or firm setting.

If you have the Type-S with the 27mm solid, use the firm setting.

BuffBakerGA

iTrader: (2)

I hate cars... Your inbox is full so I'll ask it here.

Is the purpose of jacking up the rear of car is to have better working clearance? Couldn't you just ramp up the rear? I don't see why taking the tires off is needed because after removing the RSB and tires, wouldn't the axle hit the ground (or the shocks max out)?

Also, grease question... Is white lithium grease fine for Progress bushings? Does Progress have poly or rubber bushings? Thanks for the info...

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

Race.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Subscribed, looking to get the RSB, but don't want to stress teh butt either.

leedogg

Race (inside) settings. If I wanted soft, I would have gotten a softer RSB.

I hate cars

You have to look at the big picture. You're going to be slower with it on the firmer setting and the stock AT front bar. I've tried it, I've timed the car over and over again with every imaginable combo. Firmer by itself is not better, it has to be balanced. If you run a Type-S front or aftermarket front, by all means put the rear in firm.

I hate cars

I have to do the short answer because I'm at work but jacking it up with the bar off won't hurt a thing.

I did mine with one rear tire removed.

The car has to be completely on the ground with both tires evenly or completely off. Since the swaybar is a torsional spring, if one side is higher or lower than the other you're not going to be able to install it. It resists that twist and with one side higher than the other you're going to be fighting the bar to install it.

I'll get into more detail when I get home.

myron

iTrader: (4)

sorry to hijack this thread but I need to ask this. I hate cars, I am getting a progress RSB and I have a 6MT. Is it worth it getting the type s front sway bar? this car is not tracked or raced in any way. I can get the front sway bar for really really cheap, but I read in one of your threads that it was a bitch to replace, so I just wanna know if it's worth it, or if I should just stick with the stock hollow sway bar?

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

^^^YES!....i have done this upgrade and if i were you i would also get new endlinks as well. the car is much more balanced and planted on the road. overall ride quality is defintely improved tho.

installation: you WILL have to drop the sub-frame to make this install easy on urself. personally, i wouldnt recommend doing this unless you have access to a lift or you can pay someone with a lift. i believe "i hate cars" installed his upgraded bar, which was an h&r adjustable bar btw, without dropping the sub-frame. cant remeber but i know it was a PITA for him....at least from wat i read.

I hate cars

I did have to drop the subframe but did not know that ahead of time. I ended doing it on my back on the side of the street with a single floorjack, not fun. I started at 6PM and finished cleaning up at midnight. Couldn't stop because the car had to get me to work in 4 hours. The complete lack of light didn't help things.

Don't forget, an alignment is a must afterwards.

As for it being a worthwhile upgrade from a manual 27mm hollow, I would say yes from a price standpoint. From a labor standpoint, if you have a lift and take your time without getting pissed, it's worth it. I figure I could do it again in 1.5 hours if I had a lift and daylight.

I calculated it once but going from the hollow bar to the solid bar added something like 60% or more to the stiffness. It really makes the car much, much more stable at high speeds.

However, to properly control the large 28mm H&R bar that I have, I needed to crank the Konis nearly one extra turn toward stiff. Without it the car got fairly choppy. With the shocks set right, the ride barely suffers.

I doubt this would be needed with the Type-S bar but you never know.

myron

iTrader: (4)

damn so it's not an easy job to do yourself then. I don't have access to a lift and I am sure shops would want alot of money to install that. +wheel alignment on top of that (70$ at least), doesn't seem to be worth it. Do I have to do a wheel alignment after installing the RSB?

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

^^no wheel alignment need after installing the RSB. reason u have to get an alignment after installing the FSB is bacause you have dropped the front sub-frame and by re-installing it, you have thrown the suspensions specs out of wack

AnthraciteAspec

iTrader: (6)

Mine is set to race and its true the car becomes a lot more tail happy. I left it like that because I am used to driving RWD cars so the oversteer feels more natural to me than understeer. I might upgrade to the type S FSB at some point.

I hate cars

LOL. I know the feeling. Tail happy is more fun. It took the first 6 months of owning the TL to remember giving it throttle won't make the rear slide out. The first couple times with a friend in the car they thought I was retarded. I would be exiting a corner and get on the throttle hard to kick the rear out a little but instead it just understeered nearly to the curb.

n3o

iTrader: (2)

24mm setting, but personally this sway bar isn't stiff enough for my linkings. I think I might try to get a custom one made.

n3o

iTrader: (2)

haha I do that so often when switching from my S2k to my TL lol.

Oh and I meant Liking* above not linking lol.