How long do stock front rotors on 6spd equipped TLs last? I was just told that my rotors need to be replaced at 60k mi, after two sets of OEm pads...could that be true? Rotors have never been turned....

 

After 60k miles, yes it could be true.

Most rotors these days are garbage and warp easily.

 

I replaced my pads back in the spring which is a year after I bought my '08 new. I didn't have to change the rotors but I also did not measure them either. I think if the rotors are less then 23mm then you must change them. Don't bother cutting them because they need to be cut with a on-car lathe and 9/10 times the get warped anyway. There are countless threads on this topic just search around.

 

80,000, 100,000, and even more... or less. Depends upon how you drive your car and the quality of the pads (if aftermarket). My '04 manual has the original rotors which are not showing any undue wear and appear to have multiple 10's of thousands of miles to go. This after 79,500 miles. And I have a neighbor who has an '05 manual with not only his original rotors, but his original factory pads as well and his TL is very close to, if he hasn't already exceeded, 100,000 miles.

Lots of variables affect the life of your brakes.

 

Mine weren't warped but were thinned out at 29k. Generally rule is

 

I have a 2008 TLS. I just got new rotors and brakes, B1 service at 34k. It cost me 830 dollars. Is that a lot for that kind of work? Kind of pissed me off; I just got the car two months ago.

 

Stock pads are not wearing away an oem rotor. if its never been cut, and the runout is within spec to cut the rotor, it can be cut. Replacing them is much easier on the mechanic and tougher on your wallet so if you dont do your own work (I do), then prepare to be BSd by the shops. I have done about 50 brake jobs on various cars and almost everyone could go two brake pad changes on the stock rotors.....unless the owner let the pad wear down too far and grooved the rotor with the pad rivets or the wear indicator.

 

This is exactly what I've been saying all along. Unfortunately, it's difficult to find a brake shop that can resurface the rotors ON THE CAR as THEY SHOULD BE.
It appears only the stealerships have this lathe.

Rotors get by warped crazy driving and/or improperly tightened lug nuts.
.
.

 

local Acura dealer says they resurface rotors using on-car method as well as traditional so really doubt that rotors have to be cut on the car.

my rotors were never warped so had no reason to resurface. So what's rotor spec, how can I found out if still can use rotors? is it the 23 mm?

 

I am the second owner of my 2008 TL-S which has 32.5K miles on it, and my rotors are pretty warped. Pads still seem to have some more life in them though. I also got a chance to measure my rotors and they are roughly around 23-24mm. So I will be swapping those out with Rotora slotted/drilled rotors along with their ceramic pads. As far as rotor warping it really depends on your driving. Sometimes just one hard stop can cause your rotors to warp.

 

 

Who told you that? Did they put a micrometer on the rotor? I doubt it.

Go back and ask them what they measured the thickness of the rotors to be. I'll bet they give you the "deer in the headlights" stare. Too many dealers/shops will try to sell you rotors/pads when you really don't need them....

FYI, I'm at 101K on the original front rotors (04 6MT), second set of pads, never turned.

I just measured them and they're at 0.925" (23.5mm), so I'm getting close....

 

The rotors on these cars can be cut OFF the car...Ive already done mine. The tradition ROH hondas had to use an on car lathe.

 

the oem pads of tl-s (brembo)are killer for the any brake rotors. they are excellent pads but not friendly with the rotors.why you guys don't try the hawks hps pads?? they are more friendly for the rotors and less dusty.

 

The wear and tear I have seen on the brembo's for acuras compare nothing like Lexus...You want something that eats rotors look at the IS body cars and GS's both those models rotors you have to replace because the rotor gets eaten up pretty hard.

 

Huh? What facts do you have to back up that statement?? I sure didn't see any excessive wear from the OEM pads: 101K on my original OEM rotors, first 63K with OEM pads, next 38K with RB ET300s.

 

Remember the OEM pads from the TL are not Honda parts I mean, any other Honda pads the brand is NISSIN and other brans that I can't remember now, Tl-s pads are BREMBO not Honda. I know this because my experience. I was using the same pads in my RSX brembo conversion and you can see easily like the pads ate the rotor.

In my opinion I don't like the Brembo pads, if you drive moderately you can try other pad less abrasive and less dusty like the Hawks HPS or Ferrodo 2500 but if you want to race,autocross.etc they are great pads but say goodbye to the rotors.

 

OEM pads are not abrasive enough to damage stock rotors. A cold (meaning needs alot of heat to work)pad made for racing will chew a rotor up but they squeal alot if used cold on the street. OEMs dont use this pad and thats wh we get rotor 'warping'. Its not warping, its uneven pad deposits from a pad that melts too easily from too much heat---called bad brake management--A stick car used by someone who drives stick well might go forever (100k+) without a brake pad change cause you use gears in conjunction with brakes to stop. If you do alot of rabbit starts up to high speeds and slamming the brakes for slower traffic in an auto or stick, you overheat the pads and ruin the rotor surface with pad material that eventually grooves the surface from uneven contact/ dirt debris on rotor that gets caught btwn pad and rotor. Most of damage is from letting a pad wear down too far.

Sam

 

Thats the best thing to do. Run a different pad compound (more aggressive) will clean up a so-called warped rotor (within reason). If you can get fingernails caught in grooves running across rotor surface then it needs a cut---either on/off the car is fine. Make sure the hub is free of rust or dirt and lugs are torqued in star pattern and a true rotor off the car will be true on the car. But you know that because your not buying this baloney about bad stock pads and rotors either

 

I think the rotor/brake wear is more of a issue for us with AT..at least its seems so. My rotors were thinned beyond even thinking of turning at 28k and my first set of pads lasted about 17k before they hit the warning tab.

I don't drive the car hard either...whatever your doing to make them last so long, keep it up

 

I have 07 TLS with 36xxx miles. The SA already told me that I need to change front pads and rotors. He said the pads are already down to 1mm before the warning tabs touch the rotors. Quoted price is 647.23 plus. I'm not sure why there is plus word there. May end up to be same price as yours. So I decided to buy the sportstop Xdrilled and slotted rotors, and Akebono premium ceramic pads.

 

My Type-S lasted to about 36k miles give or take some. Dealer wanted 900 bucks. I got the Rotora slotted and drilled rotors and pads from the vender and did them my self for 400 bucks. Super easy to do ...

 

i got like 48,000 and change on mine and still going

 

the oem brembo pads are def less harmful to the rotors than hawk hps....do you know what less brake dust means....it means that there is going to be more rotor wear...so actually a more dustier pad would be more friendly

 

I'm talking about my personal experience and I'm sure the hawks pads are more friendlier than the Brembo ones.

"more dustier pad would be more friendly" in my opinion more dustier = more metallic parts in the pads = more abrasive = bye bye rotors in less time

I already tried a few pads for the same reasons, but everybody need to live the things for believe in it.

 

Honda uses Akebono ceramics on just about it's entire lineup.

 

I still have the orginal rotors on my 08TLS and I am at 139K. The OEM pads were replaced at 54K. The replacement Hawk HPS pads still have plenty of life at 139K

 

One more thing, I think turning the rotors on the car went from recommended to mandatory. It's not absolutely mandatory.

 

I complained about the squealing on my Brembo's with new pads. The Gary Force Acura rep told me that the Brembo rotors should be changed every single time the pads are changed. Yeah, that's what I am dealing with here...

 

"Gary" must have a boat he needs to make lots of payments on...

I reject their reality and substitute the wisdom of our members....

 

I bought my car last year and the same thing was happening to me on my 2007 TL-S. I thought it was very weird that I was getting that crazy squealing every time I slightly pressed on the breaks. The noise is was brutal, so I decided to do some research here on Acurazine and everyone with the same issue kept saying the same thing. New pads, rotors, types or rotors and types of pads and so on and so on.

I brought the car in for an oil change to a small mechanic in my town and I told him to look into the issue to see if he can solve it and he did. I’m not a mechanic (or technical at all), but the way he explained it to me is as follows:

He found that the pads installed in my car were very closed to new, but the pads were smaller than the rotor itself. Every time I press on the brakes, the pad touches the rotor and since the pad is smaller than the rotor, with time it creates a lip around the edges of the rotor. He took my front rotors and shaved them down to match the pad enough so that when the pad hits, it does not create the lip.

This was exactly what was causing the issue and I love my car even more now. I have no noise and have been running smooth for more than 2 weeks. For me the noise was very often and very loud where I would wake up the neighbors at 5:00 AM when going to the gym.

Not sure if this is your issue 100%, but I would ask a small mechanic to try it and see. The guy I went to charged me just $44 (including taxes) to fix this.

Good luck!

 

Spot-on, man. Thanks for the write up. That same tech who told me to switch the rotors with the pads also mentioned the creation of that 'lip'. So, this must be the culprit. I will get someone to take a look at that before I spend the money on new rotors.

Loudest brake squeal you have ever heard!

Thanks again!

Mo

 

^^^Hmmmm. FYI, I have 104,500 on my OEM rotors. I have had that lip for 70K miles and no brake noise....(OEM pads for 63K miles, then RB ET300 pads).

 

I agree with the above. You're always going to get that lip as the rotor wears. If the pads were larger than the rotors you could run into other problems.

 

Interesting. I bought the car with 30k and it was squealing immediately. I took it back to the dealer and they said it was simply due to the ceramic pads. After about a month of it, I could not stand it any longer. I changed the pads to Duralast cmax gold (old pads had a lot of life left on them). I broke them in per the instructions on heeltoe to bed them. I went maybe 2 days with no squeal (heaven!!!). Since then, it is constant. A sure attention grabber.

The rotors did not have any grooves in them and do not seem to vibrate from being warped or anything. Lightly sanded, etc.

Loudest squeal in the world....well, Ashley....

 

Mo,

Have you checked for proper lubrication (backs of pads/shims, pins, spring clips)?

If that doesn't fix the squeal, I'd pull the rotors and wash, re-sand, and re-bed them. I did not turn my rotors when I changed pads. I was a little concerned about squealing due to a change in pad composition, but a thorough sand and wash with proper bedding in took care of my worries...

 

Just wanted to add that after shaving off the lip at the mechanics, car is braking smooth and no squeal. Like I said in my post, i'm not sure that this is 100% the solution, but for $45 it sure makes me wanna think it is.

 

My brother is a Honda/Accura tech at the local dealership....told me that you can have good rotos (not warped at all) but still have the warped rotor sensation in the breaks.

Told me this could be from two things:
1). Moisture can get between the rotor and the hub and can eventually lead to rust and other sorts of damage. Mother nature can be a whore...have you ever seen what tree roots can do to houses and rocks and such??!!??!?

2). Soft (sometimes crappy) pads can cause minuscule sections of dust build up on the rotors themselves...we're talking real minuscule here. But over time, this can lead to build ups that can give the sensation of warped rotors. I'm not saying that harder pads are better. In my opinion, if you like to drive your car hard, get hard pads, just realize that you'll probably be changing them more frequently. This is a simple concept.

Kostyan - this could be true that your rotors might need to be replaced, but if I were you, I would try to save as much coin as possible and get them turned. But if you drive your car hard, maybe just say "screw it" and get drilled and slotted rotors and hard pads. Only realize that contact between these two leads to friction, friction leads to heat, heat leads to expansion.

Can anyone verify that they've heard these two points above please...just so i'm not thinking i'm a complete riitard.

 

Update. Went to same mech and while he was putting new tires on, I saw imprint "23mm min" on front rotors. Asked mech to measure in front of me and he did. The front passenger rotor thickness measured 23.09mm. 2nd set of Brembo pads have very little life left. Perhaps rotors are indeed too thin to run new set of pads with, so looking out for new set of OEM rotors. Please let me know if someone seems a good price...

Thanks for posting Acura Service Limits table in this thread, just confirms than with thickness less than 23mm they can't be turned.

 

Wow, that really surprises me at only 60K. But if you've been through two sets of pads, then that would make sense for the rotors to be at service limit after the second set of pads. And now you know your mech wasn't making it up either.

For OEM, I'd check with some of the Azine Acura dealer vendors (use the Vendor link at the top of the page), Ebay, and acurapartswarehouse.com. Good luck, I'm about to be in the same situation!!