I hate cars

I had an incident today, trying to find the cause before noon tomorrow. I need to know the number of turns of the lug nuts to fully tighten the rims. I counted 7-1/2 turns on mine. If anyone could remove just one stock lug and count the turns to tight it would help immensely. Thanks.

maseace

You should be going by torque value, not # of turns. I believe it's between 80-95 ft-lbs.

I hate cars

I know how to install lug nuts lol. I need the number of turns for something else.

4drviper

front or rear

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

fine...i'll go outside in the rain and go find out....

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

I just went outside and did the rear lug nut. just slightly over 8 turns. fronts should be same? I have aspec rims but that should be same as oem tls rim

UA6

lusid

Don't question - just Do

ez12a

didnt you also replace a bunch of studs? i wonder if their lengths are just a little different than OEM..

either way

and torque spec (responding to the second poster) is more like around 80, nowhere near 90.

NetoAzul

What happened?

I hate cars

Thanks so far. I could really use the "turns to tight" for the fronts though, on a stock TL.

cinobyte

I just rotated i use a ratchet but its about 7-8. but im like the rest why would you ever want to know that.

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Why question IHC's???


He knows his stuff and will get back to us later im sure. Can anyone help him?






and LOL @ IHC's getting "schooled" on lugnuts

Project 04TL

i can get you the info on the front lugs in a couple hours when i get home.

I hate cars

Awsome, thanks!

I hate cars

And I thought it was going to be a simple request. Instead I get schooled on how to install lugnuts.

This thing can go many directions and can involve people on here and possibly me putting a hurting on a couple
"mechanics", that's why I'm not going to say anything until I'm absolutely sure what's going on.

UA6

IHC write this down somewhere...lefty loosy right tighty

I hate cars

Lol. I KNEW I was doing something wrong.

sixsixfour

keep us posted. I am curious as to what you're doing because its rare that you have a request thread here lol

Project 04TL

It was 8 turns exactly

Will Y.

x 2.

I marked a right front wheel lug nut with a Sharpie and started counting from when the threads bit to when the nut was fully tight using the lug wrench.

FYI, my car is an '05 with stock 17" wheels and auto trans (as if you can't read my sig ), so no Brembos and no TPMS, unlike IHC's '06 (with BBK).

I request disclosure of the reason for lug nut rotation count in this thread or by PM.

Project 04TL

Let me know if you need the rear verified as well

GrwnUpRcer

So you had a wheel come loose and you're wondering if the front studs were pulled all the way through when installed, or if the lugs just weren't tightened enough. You're also now wondering how much material the 'mechanics' took off of the new studs to install them.

Just a guess

FYI, 8 turns here too, went out in the garage to check. But aftermarket studs CAN be longer or shorter than stock. But usually not by much.

Project 04TL

i was thinking it had something to do with studs not being pulled all the way through.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

i saw his other thread mentioning new tires getting put a few days ago...maybe the shop didnt tighten all the lugs fully and a wheel came flying off

I hate cars

I was using this thread as proof that the shop screwed the car up. I didn't want to say what it was for because I didn't want to lead anyone into siding with me, I needed unbiased answers.

I ordered another set of NT05s because although this set had a lot of tread remaining over 95% of the tread, there was one narrow section on the inside that was past the steel, I honestly don't know how it was holding air. When I got home after driving in the rain I had water leaking out from between the tread and sidewall. An alignment was performed when I last got the tires, 12,000 miles ago and 1.5 years ago.

So I take it to the shop once I get the call that the tires were in. I had just gotten a quote from them that included the tires plus an alignment. I was informed once I got there and paid that their alignment machine has been down for 5 days. Strike one.

So I call around and find another shop that will align the car once these guys put the tires on. I got them to knock off the mounting and balancing so I just paid the $330 for the two front tires, so far it's getting better. Not 1 minute after starting work on the car the mechanic comes in and says I need to look at something. All of the lug nuts are off except for one. The stud is spinning in the hub and the lug nut has backed off about halfway.

I did this for a living, I know what this is from but I let them make excuses before I blew up. They tried to blame it on "the last guy that put the big brakes on" which is me. They blamed it on the previous owner which is me. I always run each lug nut up by hand to where once I get a wrench on it, there's only another half turn to go. What happens is these grease monkeys take their impact guns that will spin several thousand rpms unloaded and run the lug nut off at full speed. Once it hits the unloaded speed it galls the threads and you're stuck with a situation like this.

I haven't blown up on someone in many years but I've had a steady stream of bad luck lately. I almost felt bad for the guys but they deserved what they got for screwing up my car and then blaming me for it.

I had them put the tire back on, I drove it slowly home and drilled the stud out. At one point I managed to get a screwdriver back there and it held the stud in place while I put my entire 230lbs on the wrench and it didn't budge. This is the job of an impact gun galling the threads at high speed. Anyway, I drilled it out, removed the stud, and brought it back down there to have the now heavily discounted tires installed.

I had to drive it to another shop to have it aligned. I have to bring it back to the tire shop tomorrow after work because there's a shake in the steering wheel that was not there before. By 70mph the car is rattling from the shake. This will be my 3rd trip back to this shop in 3 days, 4 trips if you count the alignment shop and it sucks more than normal because I'm in the middle of a move. I'm terrified they're going to screw something else up removing the tires again to rebalance.

So on to the reason I asked the question, they brought up that I had aftermarket rotors and the thickness might be different. My caliper is packed away and I have no idea where it is so measuring the thickness is out. I figure as long as a few people post how many turns it takes to get tight should satisfy the thread depth in question. What they're saying is impossible but I figured a few testimonials that what I have fits like stock will help my case depending on how far this thing goes.

Right now I'm going to push for them replacing the whole hub assembly because the hole in the hub is now worn out from them spinning the hell out of it with the impact gun. I'm cutting them no slack because they sent me home with a problem they created which I had to fix and they torqued the lugs right in front of me with a 1/2" impact with no torque bar, just a short socket. Last, they tried to fast talk me with some serious BS, teaching me how studs fit in the hubs and about the splines and about impact guns. I like to be quiet and hear just how much BS they're going to try and feed me but I cut them off in this case because it was pissing me off too bad.

Anyway, that's my story, not as interesting as most probably thought. I'm going to look for some ARP studs, maybe 3/8" longer than stock, just because.

For anyone that has done this before, is there clearance to knock the studs out with the hub on the car or do you have to remove it and use a press. I've done it plenty times on other cars, some I had to remove the hub, some I didn't. I don't mind removing it since I can support it and reduce the chance of bending it. As long as the shop pays me for my labor I would actually rather do it myself. I've also seen some sealed units where you basically have to replace the entire hub assembly including bearings... Anyone know what type the TL uses?

sixsixfour

i dont know if some of the info you need is found in the shop manual, but id gladly mail you a copy on CD if you want.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

yes I did but I use OEM wheel studs straight from dealer! I have gotten aftermarket ones before and they are exactly the same, you cannot tell a difference by looking at them

anyways, I was the first one who posted that its 8 turns, but everyone seemed to ignore my post! come on, I didnt go outside in the wet weather and cold for nothing!

I hope you guys arent questioning my stud installs, I remove the rotor and i do it properly by cutting off the edge of the stud head so it goes in smoothly without damaging the threads, however if they do become damaged I have a m12x1.5 die to fix it. anyways, I use a lug nut with 5 or 6 washers to tighten the stud back in, and all my studs sit 100% flush, all my installs are done right. When I said 8 turns, it's 8 turns!

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

sometimes, even when the lug nuts were installed correctly, it still gets seized in for some reason and will get stuck to the lug nut. I am not 100% sure why it happens but it might be heat since it only happens to the fronts and not the rears. If you ever notice, the rear studs are always MUCH cleaner in terms of metal shavings. thats just my speculation, maybe its the metal shavings each time or something, but now I have a tap and die for stud and lug nut in m12x1.5 so if any of my threads are worn out I always clean it up so its 100% smooth going in, minimizes the risk of seizing up.

As for the wheel stud replacement, I have done quite a few on my own car. The stud WILL be able to come out if you hammer it, however make sure you only hit the stud and not the hub. I mean even if you hit the hub its not that bad but it goes slightly out of spec, just makes the rim and rotor slightly harder to put back on but thats the only thing, it's not like you will even dent the hub in any way that the human eye can see. Just give it 2-3 hard hits and it'll come out. 2-3 hard hits will not damage the hub, just keep the number of hits as little as possible. near the end where the thread is coming out it will start to get stuck, but it's a very close fit, just use a punch of flathead screwdriver to push it completely out. As for the install, I'm sure you are quite capable of that. Just remember to use the lug nut+washer to make it sit flush. It'll be a tight fit but it'll go in. If the shop somehow made that hole too big...I dunno what to say then lol but It's pretty hard to do that, usually even with the impact gun breaking off the lug nut, the part where the stud presses into the hub wont spin out, it'll be the stud breaking off first, thats the weaker part.

anyone else have any questions feel free to ask me, I have installed these studs plenty of times and can do it in confidence. some cars like 2nd gen tsx, 8th gen accords, for the front hub, you cannot remove the studs for sure, it will require removing the hub.

AndrewA

iTrader: (3)

Here's a write-up from the garage:

Extended Stud Install, but you get the point

Will Y.

You didn't say "8 turns"-- you said a rear wheel lug nut was "just slightly over 8 turns," on your TL-S with A-Spec 18" wheels.
Some of us then responded with "exactly 8 turns" after checking a front wheel lug nut on stock wheels.

We're also smarter than you because we waited until it was warm and dry before checking, too.




Good info on wheel stud removal for the TL, though.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

well come on thats close enough lol whether its 8 turns exactly or just over 8 turns. it may very well be a slight error in where the thread started lol

bluescreenofdeath

these are for rear, maybe they have them on Amazon for front too, but anyways thought about doing these instead of oemacuraparts version, good price. There are some instances of hub/bearing failures on AZ and I didn't want to dremel away at my brake shield, so next month when I put in my extended studs I'm going to replace the hubs with these while I'm already there.

sauceja

iTrader: (2)

I had to replace a couple front lug studs. I cut brake shield and had to cut a small part of the stud back.

I did not remove the hub for this and they hold great.

Just beat the old ones out. They will get the threads ruined. You do not need to cut much off to get new ones in and I do not believe it will weaken it much.

If you are going to replace all 5 studs - I would remove the hub personally.