Chad05TL

I read already that I have to drill out the OEM boot so it will fit on the Koni shaft.. But this White thing.. it appears like it should sit all the way down on the yellow body but it wont go past the weld spot. Do I have to drill that out too?




Also it looks like i have an extra Nut.. Where does it go? And where does this black plastic piece go?




And lastly, Do these last 2 pictures look right?




any help is appreciated.
thanks!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the white thing is a cover or cap, to prevent dust. yes drill it and let it rest on the body of the shock

Chad05TL

those black plastic pieces might be bump stops. But they dont even fit on the shaft that koni created.. so whats up with that? I don't really know what they are or where they go since it doesnt fit anywhere. And like other people said, there is no words on the description. Just pictures.. and they dont help much.

Chad05TL

thats what I thought but it doesnt fit over the weld spot at the top of the shaft.. haha crazy

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the bumpstop is a piece of yellow or orange rubber foam thingy.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

when I get home at 5, i can send you a pic of what the washers look like.

Chad05TL

ok yellow foamy thing is stuck on the OEM shock. I didnt think that is able to come off.. hahaha I cant believe this is going to take all day... good thing I have the next 4 days off. The only reason I am doing this myself is because I already paid 500 to have the Tiens installed and I aint paying another 6.

Chad05TL

I thought my washers were happy.. haha

Chad05TL

Ok I got the yellow bump stop to go over the weld. I didn't know it came off the oem shock. So..do I need to drill out the white plastic dust cover? Thanks.

Chad05TL

This is where I am now. I got the bump stop on and I drilled out the white cap to fit.. Still not sure why they sent a cap that would not fit their own shock.





Still dont know what to do with these::

Chad05TL

I just found out the long black cap is for protection only.. probably like during shipping. http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=439479

but the weird thing is, none of my washers have a slit in it like that one guy in the link. And they dont fit down over the weld spot. Plus there is an extra nut. haha

So I am thinking I can install the oem "accordion" boot cover after I drill it out to fit down the shaft, and then call it done. So I have an extra nut and 1 extra washer.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

i had lots of extra washers and nuts because I used the type-s bushings that came with built in washers.

Slpr04UA6

^I did as well. Just can't remember exactly which one's!

Second to last pic you posted, needs that top washer to be flipped over. Also, there should be two nuts at top of shaft. Once that last top washer is flipped, there should be room to put that second nut.


Also, are you gonna use the OEM dust boot? That black washer on the dust boot needs to be drilled out as well.

Chad05TL

Oh so are the nuts just BAck-to-back? Like locking? if so, then I wont have any extra... because::
I put 1 washer under the boot.. (can't see it)
And I put 1 washer on top of the boot.. (can see it below)

Chad05TL

Hey that's right. 2 nuts back to back.. just like the picture.. haha I got it now! Thanks guys.

Chad05TL

Oh 1 more question. With 17 inch wheels and eibachs. .do u suggest the upper or lower perch? There's only 2. I would like it to look just like my pics in the other post called TIEN BASIS RIDE. what do u think

Chad05TL

Too late I put the perch on the oem height. The upper one. I just finished the first shock. What a pain. It took me like 1.5 hours just getting the damper fork bolt thru both sides. These konis are a lot longer than TIEN coilovers and that made it hard with 1 TIEN In one side and a long shock in the other. Anyway..moving to the rear on the same side. I have a supersmall garage so I have to do 1 side at a time. It was 74 this morning but like 90 now. Ugh

Chad05TL

Something else that took long is the shock has a little slit that goes on the damper fork just a certain way. And I was 180 degrees backwards. So I had to pull it back out and compress the spring a little bit to take pressure off theme assembly so I could rotate the shock. Then back it went. Ugh.. first time is always fun

Chad05TL

I just measured the height on that 1 corner..that is all I have done.. and it is 25.5 inched from ground to top of well. That's a tad higher than I like but I don't like it lower than 25" either. I drove it about 2 miles and then measured. 25.5. So question is will it drop more? If so I don't want to Lowe the perch. I know that if 1 corner of the car is lower than the rest it can make the opposite corner raise. And I do think my coilovers on the other side is a tad lower than the rest. But then again 3 more eibachs around the car could help to raise it. So I don't know if I wanna leave it on the upper perch or not. But I think I will. Oh by the way.. the 20mm perch is more like a tick over half and inch. It's closer to 1/2 an inch rather than 3/4. For whatever that it worth. I could squeeze out the lower perch but if it drops any.. I doubt I would want that because that would go lower than 25"

Chad05TL

I just finished the drivers side. (front and rear) and this is definitely a 2 man job!!

anyway.. on the upper perch on the front.. and the middle perch on the rear, and I drove for 2 more miles, and I am 25.5" now from ground the top of wheel well. It was about 25".. and that 1/2" is noticeable. I don't know if it will drop another 1/4" or not. If it did, that would be about perfect. I guess time will tell.

so tomorrow I do the other side but it should go faster. But that rear shock is hard to compress it while simultaneously inserting the bolt. I need a 3rd hand... haha

Chad05TL

well, I wimped out. I paid someone to do the passenger side. I will post pics later when I get the back in installed and the outside waxed. I'm wiring up something that goes behind the seat so it may take a while.

EvilJoker

There is 1/2" higher gap on the front of the TL than the back from the factory. I put my Konis on the lower perch setting for the front and it came out perfect.

eyedrop

iTrader: (2)

Chad, how do you like your Eibach and Koni yellow setup so far?

I am thinking of going with the same setup, so want to get some feedback. Thanks!

Chad05TL

The ride is good like oem but slightly firmer than aspec. Which is good. But most importantly it Does handle the bumps ok so you don't beat your car to death. I posted a pic in the thread called "tein basis ride" of tein springs next to aspec and eibach springs. Te length will tell you a lot about how a car will ride. The aspec springs are for automatic transmission in that pic.. so those are the tight ones..and it's still less spring rate than the eibachs and those Aspecs are taller by 1 inch. So you can see they would ride noticeably softer. Anyway, however the teins will keep your car flatter in a turn but it comes at a cost! With that being said I might install an RSB to help the body stay flatter. And this is normal! Every car manufacturer do not lean on 1 component, like springs, to to make a car handle good. A good setup is a composite of several components if you want the best of both worlds.. like little sway and a good ride, especially over bumps.

Also I am sitting on the oem perch level. So I could go lower. But I'm not sure if I need to yet. I am half and inch higher than the pics I posted in "tein basis ride".. it is noticeable in appearance. So I removed the rear wheel spacers to push the wheel back in. And it actually helps it too look lower since my car is not quite as low as it was on the teins. See, when the car is not too low, I think it's best to not have wheel spacers because it pushes out the tire and highlights the edge of the tire and makes it stand out more. And you don't really want that. So I pushed the tire back in with no spacers and it helps to hide or tuck the tire back in to where it belongs per oem location. And it looks slightly lower than when I had it pushed out. But if your car is real low, then wheel spacers ARE desired. I think if a car is lower than 1.5 inches than you need spacers, otherwise don't mess with it.

I need to post some new pics.. but my car isn't clean. Maybe this weekend. Anyway as with any springs, there is no height adjustment but with coilovers you will sacrifice ride because the spring is just too short to handle bumps efficiently. So you gotta "wave your hands" and some of the fine tuning ability to keep your car nice. Haha nevertheless, my car still looks good but maybe not as finely tuned to an exact level. We can scrutinize pictures but in person the difference is less noticeable.

But yes I am very satisfied with the eibachs and koni's.

Btw the only coilovers I have had are TIEN. And they use the the same 12kg spring with basis and SA. I cannot speak for BC or others. But if their springs are 7.5 inches uncompressed. . You will have a rough ride over bumps. By the way.. any spring is fine over a smooth surface. ..but how will it handle bumps!! That is the question!

Eibach and koni will give a 1 inch drop or a 1.5 inch drop depending on perch setting. Ad so far I only see about 1/4 inch difference in height between front and rear on eibachs.. that's barely noticeable. But I do like it slightly lower in the rear..and that fits oem thrust angle. So you are not nose diving into the pavement as you drive.

d1sturb3d119

iTrader: (1)

Just as a heads up, the washer is there to prevent the rubber bushing in the top hat from going through the stop that is welded to the shock. You don't need the extra piece that is in your pic above the washer. Looks like that was cause more pressure than anything else. The rest of it was fine.

Koni really dropped the ball when it comes to installation steps and pics. Had to figure everything out on my own and installed it myself. Compressed the springs on the car for the front and on my own for the rear. Wasn't too hard a job once I got the hang of it. Good work btw!

Also I'm on the stock setting the sent the shocks on. Middle on the front and highest on the rear. Need to soften it up though. Its insanely stiff right now.

Chad05TL

My koni's have 2 perch levels on front and 3 on the rear. I think oem height is the top one on front and the middle one on the rear. And if yours are too tight then turn the shock to full soft for the first 100 miles or so, is what I hear is the right thing to do. Mine are full soft on front and half of 1 turn on the rear but I am turning the front up on Saturday. Then I'll be even.. and 100 miles I have put on them.. btw u are probably right that the top nut will only go down so far with that inner metal lining in the rubber grommet but I would leave the washer on it. And also in try pic above, the nuts go on there back to back. So you should see 2 there instead of 1.

d1sturb3d119

iTrader: (1)

My bad. Your right. 2 on the front 3 on the rear. Highest up front. Middle on the rear!

Chad05TL

I think you only get 1 washer for #1 and #2.. I think. And I don't even remember which side of the boot I put the washer on now.. but I think I only received 1 washer.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...structions.jpg



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...904_192613.jpg



https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...structions.jpg

cokorote

iTrader: (1)

Wow that is one suck ass instruction. No description at all, just images.