Installing Eibach Pro Springs
#1
2007 TL Type-S 6MT
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Installing Eibach Pro Springs
All,
I will be installing the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs PN# 4070.140 on my 07 Type-S this weekend. Does anyone have the torque specs for the suspension component?
Thanks
I will be installing the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs PN# 4070.140 on my 07 Type-S this weekend. Does anyone have the torque specs for the suspension component?
Thanks
#2
I don't have torque specs, but I can recommend that you loosen & re-torque EVERY suspension bolt that travels through the center of a suspension bushing. The trick is that this MUST be done AT NEW RIDE HEIGHT!!! If you don't, your bushings will be twisted all the time and this leads to premature wear/failure.
Suspension bushings twist as the wheel moves up and down. From the factory the bushings are set by all bolts being tightened and torqued with the car resting on all 4 wheels (level surface). This should always be repeated when working on your susupension. It's the most overlooked part of lowering a car!!!
On the ground (or lift) is best, but it can be done more easily (and less acurate) by putting the car up on 4 jackstands (wheels on or off). Pick a corner and jack up the lower control arm till the car lifts off the nearest jackstand. Now loosen all the bolts on that corner and re-torque to spec. Now move on to the next corner & repeat till all 4 are complete.
BTW: The dealer can provide you with a copy of the torque spec diagram for the front & rear suspensions. It's a nice exploded type view I believe...
Suspension bushings twist as the wheel moves up and down. From the factory the bushings are set by all bolts being tightened and torqued with the car resting on all 4 wheels (level surface). This should always be repeated when working on your susupension. It's the most overlooked part of lowering a car!!!
On the ground (or lift) is best, but it can be done more easily (and less acurate) by putting the car up on 4 jackstands (wheels on or off). Pick a corner and jack up the lower control arm till the car lifts off the nearest jackstand. Now loosen all the bolts on that corner and re-torque to spec. Now move on to the next corner & repeat till all 4 are complete.
BTW: The dealer can provide you with a copy of the torque spec diagram for the front & rear suspensions. It's a nice exploded type view I believe...
#3
2007 TL Type-S 6MT
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I installed the spring, but the front wheels are about an inch higher that the rear ones. I rechecked everything and ensure the bushing were cut as recommended by Eibach, and still no luck. Any advise?
I don't have torque specs, but I can recommend that you loosen & re-torque EVERY suspension bolt that travels through the center of a suspension bushing. The trick is that this MUST be done AT NEW RIDE HEIGHT!!! If you don't, your bushings will be twisted all the time and this leads to premature wear/failure.
Suspension bushings twist as the wheel moves up and down. From the factory the bushings are set by all bolts being tightened and torqued with the car resting on all 4 wheels (level surface). This should always be repeated when working on your susupension. It's the most overlooked part of lowering a car!!!
On the ground (or lift) is best, but it can be done more easily (and less acurate) by putting the car up on 4 jackstands (wheels on or off). Pick a corner and jack up the lower control arm till the car lifts off the nearest jackstand. Now loosen all the bolts on that corner and re-torque to spec. Now move on to the next corner & repeat till all 4 are complete.
BTW: The dealer can provide you with a copy of the torque spec diagram for the front & rear suspensions. It's a nice exploded type view I believe...
Suspension bushings twist as the wheel moves up and down. From the factory the bushings are set by all bolts being tightened and torqued with the car resting on all 4 wheels (level surface). This should always be repeated when working on your susupension. It's the most overlooked part of lowering a car!!!
On the ground (or lift) is best, but it can be done more easily (and less acurate) by putting the car up on 4 jackstands (wheels on or off). Pick a corner and jack up the lower control arm till the car lifts off the nearest jackstand. Now loosen all the bolts on that corner and re-torque to spec. Now move on to the next corner & repeat till all 4 are complete.
BTW: The dealer can provide you with a copy of the torque spec diagram for the front & rear suspensions. It's a nice exploded type view I believe...
#4
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canaduh!
Age: 56
Posts: 1,107
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
If the Pro-Kit is installed correctly...the car will sit perfectly level. Since the front wheel arches are higher than the rear, it may appear that the car sits higher in the front...but it doesn't. To get true measurements you should've measured the car before you had installed the springs and after. The Pro-Kit will even the stance and get rid of the OEM rake from front to back.
#5
10th Gear
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: houston,tx
Age: 37
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a pro kit as well and it does look like the front is higher than the rear, I've had the springs on for about 3 months now and that front gap is starting to annoy me although I do love the way it rides.
I'm thinking about buying h&r springs now
I'm thinking about buying h&r springs now
Last edited by gsr3gp; 07-19-2009 at 09:53 PM.
#6
2007 TL Type-S 6MT
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Age: 52
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Follow up
ALL,
I love the quality of the ride. It is a great improvement over the OEMs, but I now I hear tire/strut slap-noise from the rear struts when going over busy roads. Is this normal? Does this indicate the need of new struts? I have now re-torqued everything and assembled and disassembled the struts twice (eight installations) I love working on my car, but darn my knees, back and hands are starting to feel the work load. Any advice????
I love the quality of the ride. It is a great improvement over the OEMs, but I now I hear tire/strut slap-noise from the rear struts when going over busy roads. Is this normal? Does this indicate the need of new struts? I have now re-torqued everything and assembled and disassembled the struts twice (eight installations) I love working on my car, but darn my knees, back and hands are starting to feel the work load. Any advice????
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
3
11-14-2015 01:20 PM
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
1
09-02-2015 08:19 AM