Help-front lower ball joint won't come out!

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Old 10-31-2015, 05:43 PM
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Help-front lower ball joint won't come out!

Im replacing my front lower control arms because the compliance bushings are toast. I know you can press them out but I just wanted to replace the whole thing. Now the stupid lower ball joint doesn't want to come out. I used penetrating fluid, banged the control arm with a sledge hammer, used a ball joint separator and nothing. It looks like the joint separator tool is damaging the bolt and I don't want to do that. Any ideas?



Old 10-31-2015, 09:54 PM
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So the freaking ball joint didn't come out so I took off the other bolts attached to the frame and bam big mistake the freaking axle joint came out. Now it's even worse, it won't go back in and the control arm won't line up. Now I might have to get the car towed and take it to a mechanic.

Old 10-31-2015, 10:38 PM
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To free the ball joint block the control arm on one side with the sledgehammer (metal part) (x) then hit it on the opposite side (x) with a hammer. Be sure to wear safety glass.




The axle will go back in. It's held in place by a C clip. The C clip is attached to the end of the axle. All you need to do is line up the spines and it will snap back in place.


Last edited by 01acls; 10-31-2015 at 10:41 PM.
Old 10-31-2015, 10:43 PM
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Use FIRE!!! and put the nut back but flip it around so that the non castle looking side is facing the tool on the lower ball joint and then use the tool. This will save the threads

Use the jack to push up against the control arm to reset it back into place since you are fighting the compression of the spring and shock. Don't freak out. have a quick smoke or beer and then think through it

Last edited by thisaznboi88; 10-31-2015 at 10:47 PM.
Old 10-31-2015, 10:53 PM
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Do not use fire on suspension parts. As in heating the metal to red hot, unless you plan on replacing it.

Heating up a suspension part to red hot will weaken the part. That's very dangerous, a big no no.

Last edited by 01acls; 10-31-2015 at 10:57 PM.
Old 11-01-2015, 07:01 AM
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Thank you, I didn't know what to do because I've never taken off an axle before, I guess I'll take off the spindle nut and it should pop right out? line it up and put it back in. As for the ball joint I'll try the sledgehammer again if not I'll use a fork ball joint popper tool. I didn't want to damage the ball joint rubber boot but it seems like there's a lot of play in the ball joint, maybe ill replace it too. It looks like most after market lower ball joints don't have a castle nut with the pin for safety, maybe I should get an oem one.

Last edited by tj19855; 11-01-2015 at 07:05 AM.
Old 11-01-2015, 08:25 AM
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damn...I actually could feel your frustration in your posts...we've all been there, you'll come out victorious, one way or another.
Old 11-01-2015, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
Do not use fire on suspension parts. As in heating the metal to red hot, unless you plan on replacing it.

Heating up a suspension part to red hot will weaken the part. That's very dangerous, a big no no.
just enough to break the rust loose. Not to burn a hole in the universe should have been more specific. Or a heat gun would work also.
Old 11-01-2015, 11:07 PM
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Well thank you so much for all the help, I tried the ball joint popper tool again from harbor freight and it finally came out. Did not use a blow torch. I was able to put the axle back in place after this and went ahead and installed a new lower control arm. But not without damaging the rubber boot and the threats on the ball joint which I will have to replace later. I was able to get the castle nut back in not all the way tho but most of the way until the ball joint bolt started turning on me. For any body that wants to do this do your research and don't take out any other bolts unless your able to take out the lower ball joint first. Don't forget you can rent your special tools at your local auto parts store, it helped me a lot. Now to figure out how to replace the lower ball joint and to get the nut all the way in without the bolt turning on me.
Old 11-02-2015, 12:26 AM
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replacing the ball joint requires pressing it out of the knuckle, and as for the bolt turning, I would try using an impact gun

just curious, is this the one you used? I am thinking about getting one too: http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ller-1752.html

Last edited by paperboy42190; 11-02-2015 at 12:29 AM.
Old 11-02-2015, 07:52 AM
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Yep that looks like it. The bigger size one.
Old 11-02-2015, 10:20 PM
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did that tool damage the boot while in use? I am wondering if I should replace my boot next time I pop off the ball joint
Old 11-02-2015, 10:53 PM
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I wouldn't drive if that bolt/castle nut is not fully seated. It might fail and you will lose all steering function.
Old 11-02-2015, 11:09 PM
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No it didn't damage the boot just move it up with a flat screw driver and grease it on the outside, just leave the castle nut on so you don't damage the screw. What damaged mine was the old style ball joint fork tool which didn't really help. As for the castle nut its about 2-3mm away from the LCA, I was able to put the safety pin back in. I'll try an impact gun to see if it will go all the way in, I just have to go buy one. I check it everytime I stop just in case, Ill just drive slow for now until I get the new LBJ and nut in the mail.
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Old 11-02-2015, 11:24 PM
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hmm, the threads must be pretty bad if you cant get on the last 2-3mm without turning the bolt. usually its not supposed to get that hard to turn unless the threads are seized/deformed, or if you are on the last half thread or so

Last edited by paperboy42190; 11-02-2015 at 11:29 PM.
Old 11-02-2015, 11:37 PM
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Here is a suggestion. Jam a pry bar between the LCA and the hub arm and have someone stand on it while you tighten it by hand. It should put enough pressure on the nut where it will grab and not spin. I had that issue also on my LBJ. I end up replace it anyways since there was too much play
Old 11-02-2015, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by paperboy42190
hmm, the threads must be pretty bad if you cant get on the last 2-3mm without turning the bolt. usually its not supposed to get that hard to turn unless the threads are seized/deformed, or if you are on the last half thread or so
They are bad and deformed but for now it will do.

Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
Here is a suggestion. Jam a pry bar between the LCA and the hub arm and have someone stand on it while you tighten it by hand. It should put enough pressure on the nut where it will grab and not spin. I had that issue also on my LBJ. I end up replace it anyways since there was too much play
I'll try it weekend
Old 11-03-2015, 04:16 PM
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My quick fix for now I could only get one side of the pin in.





Damaged threads
Old 11-04-2015, 11:57 AM
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have you tried using a die to fix the threads? although if they are warped, it may not do much
Old 11-04-2015, 12:59 PM
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Ball joint nut usually need to be tighten with an impact gun bc the ball joint spins.

One can put pressure on the ball joint by jacking on the ball joint or control arm. Depends on which one is at the bottom/accessible. The tighten the nut.

Or take it to a shop for tightening.

FYI: When R&R control arm you need to preload the control arm first prior to tightening the mounting bolts. Meaning lift the car by the suspension so that the car is no longer in contact with the jack stand (just a little), with safety in mind. Then tighten the control arm with the suspension preloaded.

This will prevent the bushings being pre torqued/twisted and wearing out prematurely. One side at a time or both sides at the end.
Old 11-04-2015, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 01acls
Ball joint nut usually need to be tighten with an impact gun bc the ball joint spins.

One can put pressure on the ball joint by jacking on the ball joint or control arm. Depends on which one is at the bottom/accessible. The tighten the nut.

Or take it to a shop for tightening.

FYI: When R&R control arm you need to preload the control arm first prior to tightening the mounting bolts. Meaning lift the car by the suspension so that the car is no longer in contact with the jack stand (just a little), with safety in mind. Then tighten the control arm with the suspension preloaded.

This will prevent the bushings being pre torqued/twisted and wearing out prematurely. One side at a time or both sides at the end.

Yep did this very important!
Old 01-27-2016, 07:57 PM
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this is old. notice he put a wrench down under.. and looks like he pushed down on the suspension and then hit "something" with a hammer..
Old 01-27-2016, 08:05 PM
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here it is again. Can you believe that both guys do the same thing but neither of them show what they are striking! Its a mystery but the answer is right there. haha Thats for the video people.. right? haha
Old 01-28-2016, 07:19 PM
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Damn, that's genius...and makes a lot of sense.
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