NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Ok. I have two questions.

I've noticed that when accelerating hard through turns one of my front wheels come close to losing traction cause they nearly lift off the ground.

For example...I make a hard right turn around a curve. I am doing 60 and I drop to 3rd gear so the car is really pulling hard through the turn. The weight of the car is on the front left wheel meanwhile the front right wheel is barely making contact...and I squeel my way through the turn. All good. But if that looser wheel comes in contact with a paint stripe then I get some wiggle. (If I were turning left)

My first question is what performance parts will help keep both front wheels planted through a hard accelerating turn?

My second question is if there are any slotted or drilled rotor options for the stock brembo brakes?

Yes I have a MT.

luckyAKAhappy

You want less lean and body roll. Stiffer anti-roll bars, stiffer shocks, lowered stance to lower your center of gravity. But you probably knew that and was looking for specific products?

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, I kinda figured roll was a factor. And any suggestions for parts are appreciated.

luckyAKAhappy

Assuming you're stock, you want these....

Thicker sway bar for less lean...
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...r/g-50347.aspx


Stiffer suspension that will lower your car...
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...t/g-50219.aspx

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I saw that H&R has both a rear and front sway bar. That would be a good choice right? Seeing as how my problem is mostly at the front wheels it would be good to have a front swaybar too.

I'll see if I can find something in the search later, but just in case I don't find something...Are these pretty hard to install?

What about rotors?

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

I never hit a "hard" turn at 60, so dont know what to tell ya..

Reason why you get the "wiggle" when your tire rolls over the paint strip is that there is less traction over it

I hate cars

A thicker front swaybar is the last thing you want. It will make the problem worse.

A larger RSB can help a slight amount.

Less bodyroll will help a little.

A LSD will really help but doesn't the manual come stock with that or is that only the TL-S?

paliknight

i think all manuals.

but my front strut tower bar helped with the issues you were having. along with other suspension mods.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

all 6MT's have the LSD... so you shouldn't be slipping, especially in that scenario... thats what the LSD is designed for.. maybe its malfunctioning?

But NO thicker front bar... thicker rear bar, maybe the RV6 strut brace, drop that bitch LOW...2" front drop, stickier tires

Bearcat94

Lots of Slotted and/or Drilled and/or Slotted & Drilled Options for Brembo Front Rotors.

StopTech
Racing Brake
Rotora
Brembo


Plenty of others too.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

That's what I figured.
I am a little confused about this subject with the strut Tower bar. We already have one stock so why does getting an aftermarket one help?
No. It is definately working. The looser wheel doesn't spin wildly out of control. I believe it is just spinning the same speed as the other and just squeels when it barely makes contact with the road.
It seems everybody is against the front sway bar. Is that because it increases the understeer of the car? And I saw two different diameters for the RSB. 22mm and 24mm. Which is better?
Thanks. I looked at the Rotora slotted and drilled rotors cause they have matching front and rears. Those muthas are pricey! But i think I like those alot. The black hat on the rotor would look good on my car cause I have NBP.

I hate cars

On hard cornering a swaybar, even stock, will try and lift the inside tire. The larger one makes it worse.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

That makes sense.

I noticed that in your signature it says you have the A-spec suspension and the Progress RSB. How do you like that setup? Do you think that would be enough to aleviate my problem? I personally don't like the super drop that coilover give. Plus the camber goes wacky and tires begin to go to waste.

I hate cars

I'm pretty happy with it. Performance wise it's great. Looks wise the front was a little high even with the MT a-spec on my Auto. I had the Koni Yellows set in the low position in the front before the a-spec, put it back to the stock position after the a-spec but the front sat too high. I don't like the slammed look at all, just a little lower than stock but it looked stock in the front and lowered in the rear. So I put my Konis back to the low position and the front is borderline too low. There's about a 2 finger gap in the front. Sometimes it looks really good to me and sometimes I wish it were a little higher.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

So what's the story with the aftermarket strut tower brace? Does it make any difference?

And which is the better RSB? The Progress 24mm or the H&R and Comptech at 22mm?

rayl

Your car maybe hit side curve on your passenger side before. Check the rear bar position suspension, tie rod and toe.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Nope. All good there.

Any help out there for the strut bar and RSB sizes?

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Hello? Can anyone help me with this?

I hate cars

I wouldn't worry about the strut bar. It would be a nice improvement if the car didn't already come with one but there isn't much if anything to be gained by going with a stiffer one. Remember, this may add some rigidity to the body but it has nothing to do with suspension or bodyroll.

There are people out there driving around without the factory one and claim there's not much difference.

I would go with the Progress adjustable 24mm bar. You have your choice of soft, medium, or firm. Most people don't realize there's a medium setting. I have mine in the soft setting right now and it didn't hurt the ride quality at all, if anything it's improved.

One thing you have to think about is a larger swaybar places a greater demand on the shocks. Since it is a torsional spring, it can require additional damping. Better shocks aren't a necessity but never a bad idea.