Driver's side LCA
#1
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
Driver's side LCA
my car has been at my mechanics getting a lot of work done here the past few weeks, he was replacing the front sway bar and all the hardware but ran into a little problem.. said I have to replace drivers side LCA, (no biggie part is on way) but my mechanic also said that I need a special bolt that you can only get from the dealer...
He said its a nut and bolt about 5 inches long that connects the LCA to the strut?
Now when I look at this schematic I am a bit confused:
Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura
anyone care to chime in on what nut and bolt combo he's talking about. I can't get to the dealer until monday but we do not have a local acura dealer here , just Honda. would they have it or do I need to get it from acura?
Thanks
He said its a nut and bolt about 5 inches long that connects the LCA to the strut?
Now when I look at this schematic I am a bit confused:
Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura
anyone care to chime in on what nut and bolt combo he's talking about. I can't get to the dealer until monday but we do not have a local acura dealer here , just Honda. would they have it or do I need to get it from acura?
Thanks
Last edited by Oh Sickest TL; 04-25-2015 at 10:01 AM.
#5
Hard for me to believe it would need to be replaced due to corrosion.
I would assume the bolt/nut he's referring to are 21 and 25, but they connect the fork to the LCA.
The strut does not connect directly to the LCA.
I would assume the bolt/nut he's referring to are 21 and 25, but they connect the fork to the LCA.
The strut does not connect directly to the LCA.
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Oh Sickest TL (04-25-2015)
#6
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
^^ yea. I dunno really I haven't actually seen it yet, but he's a straight shooter and wouldn't replace stuff if it didn't need to be replaced. he's a mechanic of the family, one of my dads good pals.
He said he tried heating the bolt but it was rusted so bad he had to cut it out entirely. and maybe during that procedure the LCA was damaged? I don't know, not a big deal to me really, its not breaking the bank or anything
EDIT: The fork is a shock absorber right? so thats prob what he's referring to I would guess
He said he tried heating the bolt but it was rusted so bad he had to cut it out entirely. and maybe during that procedure the LCA was damaged? I don't know, not a big deal to me really, its not breaking the bank or anything
EDIT: The fork is a shock absorber right? so thats prob what he's referring to I would guess
#7
Get a used LCA if you can - they're pretty much bulletproof so like nfn said, I have a hard time believing you'd need to replace one. To give you an idea - I had to replace my front right wheel knuckle after a HARD impact. The LCA was still in flawless condition. Soooooo yeah.
Maybe he's referring to the strut fork? That I definitely believe. Mine was seized when my coils were being installed and I had to get a new (used) one. Cost 40 bucks.
Maybe he's referring to the strut fork? That I definitely believe. Mine was seized when my coils were being installed and I had to get a new (used) one. Cost 40 bucks.
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#8
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
he def said he needs the drivers side LCA lol.. said he needs the bolt that connects the LCA to the "wishbone" which is the strut fork...
as i said when he had to cut the bolt out maybe something happened during that process.
When i get the car back ill get him to show me the part and ill snap a pic of it.
as i said when he had to cut the bolt out maybe something happened during that process.
When i get the car back ill get him to show me the part and ill snap a pic of it.
#10
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
the word bushings did not even come out of his mouth
fuck now I'm stressing out lol he's been a mechanic longer than I've been alive (over 30 years) so I trust his judgment. we will see what happens i guess
fuck now I'm stressing out lol he's been a mechanic longer than I've been alive (over 30 years) so I trust his judgment. we will see what happens i guess
Last edited by Oh Sickest TL; 04-25-2015 at 12:39 PM.
#12
The lower control arm are cast iron pieces, the most damage that you'll do to them is bend it by hitting something hard. The most common issues with the lower control arm is the bushings wearing. To avoid pressing the existing bushings out and pressing in new ones, most people just replace the whole arms with new bushings already pressed in. I think that's why he is saying to replace it.
#13
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
thanks guys, ill know morw about the situation on monday. but i know 100% he didn't say a word about bad bushings.. he just said he needs a drivers side LCA and the bolt that connects the LCA to the "wishbone" which is the fork....I will update the thread!
#14
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Jeff
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From: Port City, New Brunswick Canada
when you buy a LCA do the bushings usually come along with it already pressed in??
#15
They do not AFAIK. While you're at it, why dont you look at stiffer bushings or the Compliance Bearings heeltoe carries. Considering those bushings are one of the most common problems the TL has, it might be worthwhile to get something that will last.
#17
After 130k in Ohio winters and salt even with the right ball joint tool both my sleeves popped. I assume it was disassembled and put back together without getting this sleeve totally clean and dry.
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