DIY: HT-Spec Coilver Install for Dummies! (or any other suspension!) 3G Garage #D-091
12-20-2011, 03:42 PM
#41
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Sway bar links are like 20 bucks, which, big picture, is nothing. if you're removing them, might as well replace them anyway. you guys should invest in some air tools. doing suspension without them is tough.
good write up, cept for one thing. the first bolts you say to remove for the strut bar? def 12mm, not 17mm.
i get my ht-specs in a couple days. ill post pic when theyre installed
good write up, cept for one thing. the first bolts you say to remove for the strut bar? def 12mm, not 17mm.
i get my ht-specs in a couple days. ill post pic when theyre installed
My mechanic uses it and takes apart things so quick!
And yeah some specs in the DIY are wrong, but oh well. Common sense figures things out from there.
12-20-2011, 10:27 PM
#43
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12-21-2011, 11:14 AM
#45
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I don't see a picture of compressing the OEM coils to get the top hats off to re-use when buying coilovers that do not come with top hats.
When I installed TEIN SS coilovers in March 2009,I didnt know where to rent a spring compressor, and was nervous doing it. So I went to Acura and ordered all the top hats, and all other nuts and bolts. Cost me almost $200.
I DONT want to waste money anymore.
Thanks for any answers/photo's
Merry Christ mas
When I installed TEIN SS coilovers in March 2009,I didnt know where to rent a spring compressor, and was nervous doing it. So I went to Acura and ordered all the top hats, and all other nuts and bolts. Cost me almost $200.
I DONT want to waste money anymore.
Thanks for any answers/photo's
Merry Christ mas
12-24-2011, 10:13 PM
#46
Instructor
Question for those with the damper adjusting Type-2's. Does the OEM strut tower bar get in the way of the adjustment valve and are they only adjustable when the bar is removed?
Thanks.
Thanks.
01-26-2012, 09:30 AM
#49
You weren't kidding about the rear seat back
I've taken the seat bench and back out of my 2nd gen TL numerous times - enough I could do it with my eyes closed.
I discovered, at least for me, you have to lift up EVENLY on the rear seat back to lift it up and over the bolt. I was trying one side at a time and it just wasn't working. I left the bolts in there.
The C-Pillar trim piece was a PITA. That "SRS identifying" piece was ridiculous. Seeing the side curtain airbag staring at me was great.
"Popping" up the rear "hat tray" gave me that heart-attack feeling you get the first time you take your bumper off and you hear that plastic crack sound from the tabs and plastic plugs. Was it really supposed to be that strongly in there? I don't want to remove the C-pillar trim on the other side I'm hoping I can pull it up just enough to get my ratchet in there.
I've noticed the 3rd gen TL is put together a lot "tighter" than the 2nd gen. Everything seems to snap into place better and have more fasteners. Harder to work on - but I guess better fitment and appearance and reduction in noise.
I've taken the seat bench and back out of my 2nd gen TL numerous times - enough I could do it with my eyes closed.
I discovered, at least for me, you have to lift up EVENLY on the rear seat back to lift it up and over the bolt. I was trying one side at a time and it just wasn't working. I left the bolts in there.
The C-Pillar trim piece was a PITA. That "SRS identifying" piece was ridiculous. Seeing the side curtain airbag staring at me was great.
"Popping" up the rear "hat tray" gave me that heart-attack feeling you get the first time you take your bumper off and you hear that plastic crack sound from the tabs and plastic plugs. Was it really supposed to be that strongly in there? I don't want to remove the C-pillar trim on the other side I'm hoping I can pull it up just enough to get my ratchet in there.
I've noticed the 3rd gen TL is put together a lot "tighter" than the 2nd gen. Everything seems to snap into place better and have more fasteners. Harder to work on - but I guess better fitment and appearance and reduction in noise.
01-26-2012, 10:21 AM
#50
Believe it or not, with a pivoting ratchet attachment you can actually get to the 2 nuts on TOP of the assembly without removing the rear decklid and C pillars...
Great to know now, right
Sorry, but I've done it before a few times already. I don't mind the seat, I HATE removing the decklid, it's too hard to get it back into place with the sound deadening and all the other fun stuff.
Great to know now, right
Sorry, but I've done it before a few times already. I don't mind the seat, I HATE removing the decklid, it's too hard to get it back into place with the sound deadening and all the other fun stuff.
01-26-2012, 10:35 AM
#51
I've read that people did it without removing the deck lid... but I just don't see how you'd get around the top of the suspension to the back nut - the front, sure. I'd like to see the tool used. I probably just don't have the best tool - and I know my torque wrench isn't getting back there w/ out popping up the deck lid.
01-27-2012, 07:22 AM
#52
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
Installed mine without removing the rear deck. Torque wrench with deep socket worked for me.
Had to put socket on nut first by hand, then connect the torque wrench but there was "enough" room
Had to put socket on nut first by hand, then connect the torque wrench but there was "enough" room
02-02-2012, 12:16 PM
#53
Darn. Working on the rears... I can't get the holes lined up for the main bolt to go through. I've got the damper bolt through the coil over... but the damper nut w/ the collar will NOT line up - even with jacking it up. I'm afraid I'm going to bend something. (I already bent one of the front damper forks) HALP! 
Last edited by jayunsplanet; 02-02-2012 at 12:22 PM.
02-02-2012, 12:51 PM
#54
Ugh. Well I figured that one out. I loosened the sway bar mounts on both sides. Easy as pie. HOWEVER, the damper nut that's welded on - the threads are stripping inside. FML.
02-02-2012, 12:59 PM
#55
^I had the same issue. Ended up cross threading. Had to buy a new bracket. PITA!Did you disconnect the whole bracket or just sway bar link? Make sure the bracket is flush. I couldnt get my bracket flush since it was connected to the link. Had no prob with driver side tho.I should of just diconnected the sway bar link in the first place since the rust on the nut wasnt so bad. When i put the new bracket on.. everything lined up fine.
02-02-2012, 01:48 PM
#56
That's probably what I'm going to have to do. This sucks. However, I have to remove the endlink attached to that bracket - which also sucks. And the part isn't in stock anywhere - so I have to have it ordered over night.
02-02-2012, 03:10 PM
#57
I can't get the endlink off. The one attached to the rear sway bar directly I believe the allen key part is stripped (I got it 80% off before that happened) I'm probably going to have to grind that off >__<
There is still one attached to the bracket part - which I could try - but I don't want to end up stripping that one too and having to grind and replace that one too.
Anybody know what kind of endlinks the 05 TL uses? I remember when I was replacing the sway bar on my 03 TL - the endlink stripped and I ended up replacing both sides from ones I got at like Pep Boys or somewhere.
There is still one attached to the bracket part - which I could try - but I don't want to end up stripping that one too and having to grind and replace that one too.
Anybody know what kind of endlinks the 05 TL uses? I remember when I was replacing the sway bar on my 03 TL - the endlink stripped and I ended up replacing both sides from ones I got at like Pep Boys or somewhere.
02-03-2012, 11:42 AM
#60
Instructor
great write up...i was at my buddies shop and he let me use his lift... i installed my progress rsb and decided to do the coils when reading this write up....i didnt have a problem with the end links bc i had just put some new moogs when installing the rsb so that went smooth.... as far as the c pillar, i was a bit nervous pulling a tab that read air bag so i disconnected my batter... i didnt remove the deck lid but i did lossen it so that i can lift it just enough to get a deep socket wrench in there with no problem... everything else went smooth
03-02-2012, 02:33 AM
#61
ok well i just installed my suspension and put the rear deck back on and side panels but when i connected my battery and started the car i get a abs light now...... so my vsa and abs light are on how do i fix this or did i maybe knock something loose?
03-30-2012, 06:33 AM
#63
H2, your VSA is for your tires being low on air, no?
About the ABS, that can be any of the sensors near your wheels...did you accidentally unplug anything? Or hit any wires that might have come loose?
PS, if you all have a pivoting swivel for your ratchet, you can do your rear bolts without removing the rear tray or c pillars.
J.
About the ABS, that can be any of the sensors near your wheels...did you accidentally unplug anything? Or hit any wires that might have come loose?
PS, if you all have a pivoting swivel for your ratchet, you can do your rear bolts without removing the rear tray or c pillars.
J.
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03-30-2012, 01:07 PM
#64
Thanks for the tip Rockstar on the decklid, looking to tackle the install once my coils come in. The areas that seem like a pain are the rear seats and endlinks but atleast I don't have to worry also about the decklid now.
Awesome write up Deathmetal as usual
Awesome write up Deathmetal as usual
03-30-2012, 01:16 PM
#65
WOW! How am I jsut seeing this now almost a YEAR after it was posted? IT SHOULD BE NOTED:
1) Your measurements are of the V1 and early V2 kits. Current V2 kits have different measurements for the lower bracket height because the orange pieces are longer...meaning there is more upward height adjustment available.
2) The latest V2 kits have a revised front pre-load setting that should be followed. We recommend 7.5" from the bottom of the upper mount to the bottom of the spring. All HTSpec V2 kits are shipping from Function/Form with the preload set at this place from NOW on.
3) We have included supplementary documentation and HTSpec decals in the latest shipments as well. If you need decals please email your order number to support@heeltoeauto.com. The documentation, which includes troubleshooting, history, specs for height settings, and more is available for download here:
http://heeltoeauto.com/files/tech/HT...ment%20Doc.pdf
4) Please append these notes to the OP!
1) Your measurements are of the V1 and early V2 kits. Current V2 kits have different measurements for the lower bracket height because the orange pieces are longer...meaning there is more upward height adjustment available.
2) The latest V2 kits have a revised front pre-load setting that should be followed. We recommend 7.5" from the bottom of the upper mount to the bottom of the spring. All HTSpec V2 kits are shipping from Function/Form with the preload set at this place from NOW on.
3) We have included supplementary documentation and HTSpec decals in the latest shipments as well. If you need decals please email your order number to support@heeltoeauto.com. The documentation, which includes troubleshooting, history, specs for height settings, and more is available for download here:
http://heeltoeauto.com/files/tech/HT...ment%20Doc.pdf
4) Please append these notes to the OP!
03-31-2012, 08:25 AM
#68
WOW! How am I jsut seeing this now almost a YEAR after it was posted? IT SHOULD BE NOTED:
1) Your measurements are of the V1 and early V2 kits. Current V2 kits have different measurements for the lower bracket height because the orange pieces are longer...meaning there is more upward height adjustment available.
2) The latest V2 kits have a revised front pre-load setting that should be followed. We recommend 7.5" from the bottom of the upper mount to the bottom of the spring. All HTSpec V2 kits are shipping from Function/Form with the preload set at this place from NOW on.
3) We have included supplementary documentation and HTSpec decals in the latest shipments as well. If you need decals please email your order number to support@heeltoeauto.com. The documentation, which includes troubleshooting, history, specs for height settings, and more is available for download here:
http://heeltoeauto.com/files/tech/HT...ment%20Doc.pdf
4) Please append these notes to the OP!
1) Your measurements are of the V1 and early V2 kits. Current V2 kits have different measurements for the lower bracket height because the orange pieces are longer...meaning there is more upward height adjustment available.
2) The latest V2 kits have a revised front pre-load setting that should be followed. We recommend 7.5" from the bottom of the upper mount to the bottom of the spring. All HTSpec V2 kits are shipping from Function/Form with the preload set at this place from NOW on.
3) We have included supplementary documentation and HTSpec decals in the latest shipments as well. If you need decals please email your order number to support@heeltoeauto.com. The documentation, which includes troubleshooting, history, specs for height settings, and more is available for download here:
http://heeltoeauto.com/files/tech/HT...ment%20Doc.pdf
4) Please append these notes to the OP!
11-16-2012, 05:42 PM
#71
I know this is reviving an old thread,but i guess it doesn't matter since it is pretty common.
I'm actually doing my suspension swap again tommorrow . so if anyone needs pics,id be glad to snap away although OP pretty much nailed it.
Also i wanted to comment on the Rear Top mounting bolts, when i removed the rear seat, i just cut a small square large enough for me to slip a ratchet in and be able to loosen it with ease, without removing any panels and fighting with that pesky SRS clip!
I'm actually doing my suspension swap again tommorrow . so if anyone needs pics,id be glad to snap away although OP pretty much nailed it.
Also i wanted to comment on the Rear Top mounting bolts, when i removed the rear seat, i just cut a small square large enough for me to slip a ratchet in and be able to loosen it with ease, without removing any panels and fighting with that pesky SRS clip!
11-16-2012, 08:06 PM
#73
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I have done rear suspension twice and have yet to touch the c-pillar or rear deck lid.
Although I left my rear seats out to make adjustments and to hopefully get the rear deck rattle fixed.
Good write-up. I just use a 3/8 ratchet and short socket for stock shocks and had to use a deep socket for the ISC N1's with no problems.
Although I left my rear seats out to make adjustments and to hopefully get the rear deck rattle fixed.
Good write-up. I just use a 3/8 ratchet and short socket for stock shocks and had to use a deep socket for the ISC N1's with no problems.
11-17-2012, 08:58 AM
#74
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DeathMetal, I'd like to say thank you for making this thread. It helped my brother and I tremendously. 
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01-03-2013, 05:59 PM
#76
so the rears, the struts were "longer" uninstalled so i had to push down on the knuckle to slide the bolt in.
now i'm doing the front, is it the same way? i'm having trouble taking the fork bolt out.
now i'm doing the front, is it the same way? i'm having trouble taking the fork bolt out.
01-03-2013, 08:24 PM
#77
01-03-2013, 08:36 PM
#78
so.... roughly how many inches raise @ the jack, is "mildly" ..? i tried 1/2, 1, 2, and bolt is still stuck but i can tap the bolt both ways to get it moving with the fat end of breaker bar, but once it becomes flush with the fork i can't tap anymore
01-03-2013, 08:44 PM
#79
Fearless DIY Guy
Thread Starter
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Honestly...I don't know. I always played with it until I could remove it cleanly. Be patient...otherwise you will strip the thread and have to head to Honda/Acura/Napa to get a new one...it's relatively proprietary...
01-04-2013, 03:58 PM
#80
it turned out to be 1/16-1/8inch for 07 base lol.
being a small guy and accordingly small strength, i used 10inch 1/4" extension and the 1/2 breaker bar to tap the bolt in and out. very lightly (using my small arm lol) threads are fine.
thanks for your help!
being a small guy and accordingly small strength, i used 10inch 1/4" extension and the 1/2 breaker bar to tap the bolt in and out. very lightly (using my small arm lol) threads are fine.
thanks for your help!