Comptech Swaybar
Comptech Swaybar
I have a 05 TL 6spd that comes with the 20mm rear sway bar. Has anyone replaced their's with the 22mm comptech swaybar. Is it worth the money and can you notice the difference. Thanx
Moderator Alumnus
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From: NYC/SF/Tokyo/HK
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107027
This is one of them. The SEARCH feature should be able to help you find more.
This is one of them. The SEARCH feature should be able to help you find more.
Racer
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From: Atlanta
I have a 6MT and have the Comptech sway bar sitting in my trunk. I just need to decide whether I am going to pay to have it installed or do it myself. However, do a search as many of us have discussed this already. According to the math there should be a noticeable improvement.
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Originally Posted by captain
I have a 6MT and have the Comptech sway bar sitting in my trunk. I just need to decide whether I am going to pay to have it installed or do it myself. However, do a search as many of us have discussed this already. According to the math there should be a noticeable improvement.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by smartin9949
6MT already has a "fat" swaybar.
To quote GoBig-
"It's the bar's bending moment of inertia (I) that contributes to its stiffness. In this case, I=PI*D^4 (D is the outside diameter and PI = 3.14...). When comparing the two bars, the 22mm bar is about 46% stiffer than the 20mm bar assuming they are both are solid and made of the same grade steel."
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Banned
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Originally Posted by captain
Comptech's sway bar is over 20% "fatter" and 46% stiffer.
To quote GoBig-
"It's the bar's bending moment of inertia (I) that contributes to its stiffness. In this case, I=PI*D^4 (D is the outside diameter and PI = 3.14...). When comparing the two bars, the 22mm bar is about 46% stiffer than the 20mm bar assuming they are both are solid and made of the same grade steel."
To quote GoBig-
"It's the bar's bending moment of inertia (I) that contributes to its stiffness. In this case, I=PI*D^4 (D is the outside diameter and PI = 3.14...). When comparing the two bars, the 22mm bar is about 46% stiffer than the 20mm bar assuming they are both are solid and made of the same grade steel."
Shift_faster
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From: Queens, NY
Senior Moderator
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From: IL
you might feel a difference, you might not, you might think you feel a difference because you know its there... if you had an Auto and switched the bars, then yes you'd feel a difference... for 6MT TLs.. the difference is marginal
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by smartin9949
not exactly, ... and, the relationship between stiffness and roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll.
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
Banned
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Originally Posted by captain
I do not claim to be a physics expert... but tell us then, exactly how is it?
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Can anyone just point out what bushings, swing arm, and other terms used on the comptech directions for me? I'm very confident that it'll be easy that I'll do it myself, but pictures with arrows would help A LOT. Thanks
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Originally Posted by captain
Thanks, greatly appreciated.
R = 5e6 x D^4 / (0.4244 x A^2 x L + 0.2264 B^3)
where: (english units feet? inches?)
R = Torsion rate of bar
D = Bar diameterA = Effective length of lever arm
L = Length of bar
B = Length of lever arm
i suspect 2R would mean 1/2 the roll.
i did not run the #'s, feel free to, then compare R between oem and new bar.
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Originally Posted by integr89
Can anyone just point out what bushings, swing arm, and other terms used on the comptech directions for me? I'm very confident that it'll be easy that I'll do it myself, but pictures with arrows would help A LOT. Thanks
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Originally Posted by captain
I do not claim to be a physics expert... but tell us then, exactly how is it?
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
Banned
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Originally Posted by captain
I do not claim to be a physics expert... but tell us then, exactly how is it?
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
If the bar is 46% stiffer, I would think that is statistically significant and would probably be a noticeable difference.
Now I could be wrong, but would appreciate a little more input then "not exactly" and "roll is not directly proportional, meaning if the bar if 43% stiffer this does not mean 46% less roll"
If these assumptions are inaccurate then correct them. However, your argument does nothing other than say they are wrong while offering no proof of their own.
i ran the #'s (all the constants basically drop out), and yes, the new would be rougly 46% more 'R'. 100% more 'R' = 1/2 less roll, 50% more 'R' = 1/4 less roll.
so if comptech steel is same materials and same geometry as oem, expect approx 1/4 less roll with new bar.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by smartin9949
captain,
i ran the #'s (all the constants basically drop out), and yes, the new would be rougly 46% more 'R'. 100% more 'R' = 1/2 less roll, 50% more 'R' = 1/4 less roll.
so if comptech steel is same materials and same geometry as oem, expect approx 1/4 less roll with new bar.
i ran the #'s (all the constants basically drop out), and yes, the new would be rougly 46% more 'R'. 100% more 'R' = 1/2 less roll, 50% more 'R' = 1/4 less roll.
so if comptech steel is same materials and same geometry as oem, expect approx 1/4 less roll with new bar.
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Originally Posted by captain
Thanks for the info. The wealth of knowledge and expertise on this board is great! In regards to the Comptech RSB... don't you think that 25% less roll would be noticeable? Also, do you think that going to the 22MM Comptech bar is too much? Many people on this board have done it and are happy with the results. However, I don't want to negatively afffect the handling either.
this swaybar is a good upgrade, but be warned, bumps may feel more "bumpy" because the coupling between the 2 independent wheels becomes greater. there is always a tradeoff.
Thanx
Wow this was my first post and didn't expect the number of replies I got. This forum is pretty good...I just got my TL on the 29th of Dec....waiting for the summer to get the A-spec wheels and suspension. After reading through all the info I think the 110 dollars is worth the slight decrease in body roll so I will also be getting the comptech sway bar aswell. Thanx again and I'll let you guys know how it rides in a couple of months.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Cincinnati, OH
I read somewhere that we need a torque wrench to change the rear sway bar. How much force are we supposed use to tighten? I look underneath and I see how it's connected... do we use the original rubber brackets for the middle two spots?
Head a da Family
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From: New Friggin Jerzy
Originally Posted by integr89
I read somewhere that we need a torque wrench to change the rear sway bar. How much force are we supposed use to tighten? I look underneath and I see how it's connected... do we use the original rubber brackets for the middle two spots?
Safety Car
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From: NorCal
Here's an excerpt from the install procedures (PDF) available for download at the Comptech site. It does not give a specific torque.
Rear Sway Bar
1. Remove rear sway bar: Disconnect the end links from the sway bar only and leave links connected to the swing arms. Unbolt the sway bar brackets and drop sway bar and bushings out and set aside (none of these components will be reused).
2. Install Comptech Sport Sway Bar: Install the new bushings on the Comptech Sway Bar. Position the new bar in the chassis and install the new brackets with the supplied bolts (do not tighten yet). Reinstall end links to Comptech sway bar and tighten all attachments to factory specifications.
3. Install Retaining Clips: Install the provided 7/8” retaining clips (2) just as done in #3 above.
THOROUGHLY RECHECK INSTALLATION OF FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS TO INSURE THAT ALL CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT AND TORQUED TO THE PROPER SPECIFICATIONS.
1. Remove rear sway bar: Disconnect the end links from the sway bar only and leave links connected to the swing arms. Unbolt the sway bar brackets and drop sway bar and bushings out and set aside (none of these components will be reused).
2. Install Comptech Sport Sway Bar: Install the new bushings on the Comptech Sway Bar. Position the new bar in the chassis and install the new brackets with the supplied bolts (do not tighten yet). Reinstall end links to Comptech sway bar and tighten all attachments to factory specifications.
3. Install Retaining Clips: Install the provided 7/8” retaining clips (2) just as done in #3 above.
THOROUGHLY RECHECK INSTALLATION OF FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS TO INSURE THAT ALL CONNECTIONS ARE TIGHT AND TORQUED TO THE PROPER SPECIFICATIONS.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
Here's an excerpt from the install procedures (PDF) available for download at the Comptech site. It does not give a specific torque.
Head a da Family
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: New Friggin Jerzy
Originally Posted by captain
Does anyone have a service/repair manual?
The 2 pairs if bushing bolts get tightened to 16 ft-lbs.
The link nuts at each end get tightened to 29 ft-lbs.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
OK, I had my sway bar installed today. I have a 6MT so some of you were interested to know if there would be a discernable difference. We debated earlier in this thread. One thing should be noted - I have had the car for 11 months. Around month 7 I installed the A-Spec suspension. There was a definite obvious difference. I don't think someone just got a 6MT and hadn't driven for a while would notice much of a difference with the Comptech RSB. However, because I have driven for a good while with the stock RSB I definitely notice subtle changes. If you have a 6MT and want a mod that will seriously improve the handling go for the A-Spec suspension. If you want a relatively cheap mod and are ok with a subtle improvement than the Comptech RSB may be your ticket. Just my 
Instructor
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From: CT
Originally Posted by captain
If you want a relatively cheap mod and are ok with a subtle improvement than the Comptech RSB may be your ticket. Just my
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta
Originally Posted by PTN
could you expound a little on what it was exactly that you noticed, albeit subtle, in the handling characteristics of your car? thanks for any info.
Shift_faster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Queens, NY
Originally Posted by PTN
you might want to detail your experience as well so we could hear what you found to be different. thanks.
The above is my review.
I bought my CT RSB from an Acura Dealer who installed it. The bar itself cost me $120 (they charged me the shipping that CT charges them).
Instructor
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From: CT
Originally Posted by PoochaKannInc
Shift_faster
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Queens, NY
Originally Posted by PTN
thanks for the link. do you still have your stock bar? if you do, i would be interested in it. that goes for anyone's stock 6MT bar in the NY,NJ, CT area.