OK, so I have reviewed several options here. The complete OEM control arm is way too expensive. I can get the bushings and get it professionally removed and installed as DIYing them would be a PIA..... Or I can buy aftermarket. I have used aftermarket "MOOG" brand lower control arms on my previous ride that got totaled "05 Honda Accord 5M/T" and found their quality and workmanship to be at par to OEM. Would like to know your thoughts which brand aftermarket front lower control are the best. I will be DIYing the whole install so even if after a yr the lower control arm fails it would be OK to just redo the job....
Any preference as to what brand after market control arms would be good.....
Someone @nfnsquared created a DIY press and it's more than doable. Or just remove the LCA and take it to a mechanic with a press to install it. Moog typically isn't too bad but for the Acura LCA, I'd just buy some OEM or PCI spherical bushings (reviewed here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...cement-954321/
OEMs usually last well over 100K. Nothing lasts forever.
I doubt you'll get 50K miles out of a typical aftermarket "OE replacement" part.
That's certainly hypothetical as no data has been given to verify that statement.
Replaced the rear hubs on our '08 knock around car with aftermarket and they've been OK for over 120k miles.
The OEM were $205 each, aftermarket total $60 for both, lifetime warranty.
That's certainly hypothetical as no data has been given to verify that statement.
Replaced the rear hubs on our '08 knock around car with aftermarket and they've been OK for over 120k miles.
The OEM were $205 each, aftermarket total $60 for both, lifetime warranty.
The OEM's on my TSX lasted over 100K and they weren't cracked. I replaced them with moogs, which both tore out of their casings in 40-50K.
I've also been around and seen this on other aftermarket sets. 40-50K is actually a LONG lifespan for aftermarket bushings.
Hubs aren't the same as bushings. And depending on what brand of hubs you got, you may have recieved a similar to OEM quality part.
We've been through this discussion. Its going to go off topic again even after I prove my point is solid.
I'm sure you won't answer...but how long have your OEM bushings lasted? Have you compared them to aftermarket?
The OEM's on my TSX lasted over 100K and they weren't cracked. I replaced them with moogs, which both tore out of their casings in 40-50K.
I've also been around and seen this on other aftermarket sets. 40-50K is actually a LONG lifespan for aftermarket bushings.
Hubs aren't the same as bushings. And depending on what brand of hubs you got, you may have recieved a similar to OEM quality part.
We've been through this discussion. Its going to go off topic again even after I prove my point is solid.
I'm sure you won't answer...but how long have your OEM bushings lasted? Have you compared them to aftermarket?
Why wouldn't I answer? On the TL no bushings have been changed since new ('04-103k miles) and having bushings lasting just over 100k miles is pretty poor quality in my opinion. Geez, I can't remember when I needed to change a bushing and some of my cars had close to 300k miles. Let me take that back, the daughter's Hemi Grand needed the front diff bushings changed at 140K miles, just more poor quality from Jeep.
What I was trying to point out is that the replacement hubs were $58 compared to $410, so if they were similar to OEM as you state, quite a savings, $352. What's the downside?
Why wouldn't I answer? On the TL no bushings have been changed since new ('04-103k miles) and having bushings lasting just over 100k miles is pretty poor quality in my opinion. Geez, I can't remember when I needed to change a bushing and some of my cars had close to 300k miles. Let me take that back, the daughter's Hemi Grand needed the front diff bushings changed at 140K miles, just more poor quality from Jeep.
What I was trying to point out is that the replacement hubs were $58 compared to $410, so if they were similar to OEM as you state, quite a savings, $352. What's the downside?
??? 100K is a LONG time for pivoting compliance bushings. None of the other bushings are prone to wear. That type of compliance bushing has its advantages, and lots of manufacturers use them (BMW, Mercedes, Mazda, etc). Very few last 100K+ miles on the regular like the ones from Honda do.
You're straying from the point.
OEM compliance bushings last 100K+ as a conservative estimate. I've seen them go 200+K.
That is insanely long for that type of bushing.
Aftermarket ones last MAYBE 50K.
OEM bushings cost roughly double in most cases. The labour cost is very high...so the less times you change them, the better.
You said your OEM's have 103K on them and they're fine? Have you seen 103K mile used AFTERMARKET bushings?
Yours haven't been replaced...so why are you saying they're bad quality? They may last 200K for all you know.
Unlike hubs, you're going to be hard pressed to find a bushing that matches (or even gets close) to a genuine Honda bushing in terms of longevity and quality. Aftermarket hubs are a little touch and go for certain types of use....but we won't go there. Your aftermarket hubs work for your purposes. I'll leave it at that.
There are some things that work a lot better when they're spec'd and engineered by Honda. For those things, I would not recommend aftermarket.
My RX7 TII has 211k miles on the bushings, 2008 Kia 274K miles, Nissan Maxima, 264K miles, I could keep going. Maybe I will. As I stated before, all of the cars I've worked on have never needed LCA bushings, but come to think about the situation, I've never worked on many Acura's, guess that's the key, poor bushing quality or poor engineering.
Maybe a change from OEM might be best.
Evidence? https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...d-look-707888/
My RX7 TII has 211k miles on the bushings, 2008 Kia 274K miles, Nissan Maxima, 264K miles, I could keep going. Maybe I will. As I stated before, all of the cars I've worked on have never needed LCA bushings, but come to think about the situation, I've never worked on many Acura's, guess that's the key, poor bushing quality or poor engineering.
Maybe a change from OEM might be best.
Evidence? https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...d-look-707888/
Paul, our star mechanic in NJ recommends the MEVOTECH lower control arm replacements sold by rockauto.
He's had good luck with them and they're about ¼ the price of the OEM's.
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Paul, our star mechanic in NJ recommends the MEVOTECH lower control arm replacements sold by rockauto.
He's had good luck with them and they're about ¼ the price of the OEM's.
If you're a DIY type, buying Honda/Acura bushings (~$55) and invest in the DIY pressing tool (~$40) proved to be a winner for me. I'm good if it last another 100K mi.
Well, I am overdue to tighten up my suspension. Both of the compliance bushings are shot, but went online and found the LCAs for 54 each (no Ball-joint). Great deal, and beats having to replace all of the bushings. Do most of you just do the bushings, or has the LCA pricing come down to not making it worth the effort. I will likely replace them this weekend.
When I changed mine, I purchased two new lower control arms. I believe I paid 200 or so for each.
It was cheaper than buying the ball joint, bushings etc. I did the work myself so saved on labor. except the alignment afterwards.
thanks for the part numbers, with the parts and labor for bushings, might as well get MEVOTECH? direct plug and play
6C0DF59CB9B15B
Use the code and get an additional 5% off parts. Enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive discount
Good thru 10/11/07
Thanks for all the inputs guys....love it.... I finally bought the moogs, When the OEM control arms come out....I will replace them with OEM bushings and keep them in stock. This way I will not be without a ride.....Cause the pressing of bushing by a shop will take time......have to match up my diying timings to their open/close schedule. This way I have a set on standby when the aftermarket fails....the only thing that i think of now is that I should have bought the moventech ones and they are much cheaper than the moogs and would have worked better in my case....
I have had good experience with Moog's quality...will post some pictures of the MOOG control arms and you will see their attention to detail and workmanship.....the bushing quality will only to be proven by the mileage and that will take time...lol
And yes used that code on rockauto and got my 5% off....Thank you all...keep the conversation going......But with cheap cost of aftermarket LCA just makes perfect sense for diying this job in a couple of hours then messing around with OEM bushings etc as it takse a hell of a time trying to muscle with those.....and throws your diying timings out of wack....
6C0DF59CB9B15B
Use the code and get an additional 5% off parts. Enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive discount
Good thru 10/11/07
i ordered MEVOTECH left and right LCA, i wonder which bolts i have to pre-loaded?
Just make certain the suspension is loaded when you tighten the bolts. You don't want the suspension hanging, so either have it on a ramp, so that when changed, you can lower it onto the ramp to tighten, or a jack under the LCA. That goes for all the bolts you'll remove from the LCA.
Just want you to know the LCA does not come with the ball joint so might as well purchase a couple of them, easier than trying to remove and reuse the old units. In fact, many damage the BJ when trying to do the removal.
Just make certain the suspension is loaded when you tighten the bolts. You don't want the suspension hanging, so either have it on a ramp, so that when changed, you can lower it onto the ramp to tighten, or a jack under the LCA. That goes for all the bolts you'll remove from the LCA.
Just want you to know the LCA does not come with the ball joint so might as well purchase a couple of them, easier than trying to remove and reuse the old units. In fact, many damage the BJ when trying to do the removal.
cool, thanks, i might do it myself or find a shop or someone do it.
Just make certain the suspension is loaded when you tighten the bolts. You don't want the suspension hanging, so either have it on a ramp, so that when changed, you can lower it onto the ramp to tighten, or a jack under the LCA. That goes for all the bolts you'll remove from the LCA.
Just want you to know the LCA does not come with the ball joint so might as well purchase a couple of them, easier than trying to remove and reuse the old units. In fact, many damage the BJ when trying to do the removal.
The ball joint is attached to the spindle. Its only taper seated to the LCA.
The ball joint is attached to the spindle. Its only taper seated to the LCA.
I stand corrected, thinking about different vehicle. You are correct in that it would be harder to replace the BJ, so be careful not to damage the boot when removing the lca.
That's a PIA. Checked and Rock has the same arm listed for 3.2 & 3.5. Let them know about the problem.
I dont think MEVOTECH specifies different arms for TL-S's. They're likely list the same arm for TSX's and Accords too. They use the same bushings and hole patterns for all those cars. You'll notice that the aftermarket arms also do not have a ball joint sleeve. The ball joint presses into the arm directly. The "meh, close enough" R&D approach is so cool.
I wonder why Acura spent time on R&D to scrutinize different arm versions and bushing construction for different platforms. I wonder why MEVOTECH didn't. Ah whatever. Its all the same, right?
I dont think MEVOTECH specifies different arms for TL-S's. They're likely list the same arm for TSX's and Accords too. They use the same bushings and hole patterns for all those cars. You'll notice that the aftermarket arms also do not have a ball joint sleeve. The ball joint presses into the arm directly. The "meh, close enough" R&D approach is so cool.
I wonder why Acura spent time on R&D to scrutinize different arm versions and bushing construction for different platforms. I wonder why MEVOTECH didn't. Ah whatever. Its all the same, right?
