NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

My very rear control arms that have the adjustable cam bolts are frozen.


I cant get the car aligned because they cannot be turned. I have heated them, PB blasted them, drilled tiny holes thru the arm itself into the bolt and squirted pb blast up in there.


Used air chisel and hammer... Nothing works! Im going to have to cut the bolts out.


Hoping to find someone that replaced there and has the arms and bolts laying around!! Ill buy them!


Any ideas? because I am out of them! lol

Thanks!

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

you alrdy answered your own question. only thing you can do is cut them out and you're alrdy planning to do that

motor_moose

That's funny. I ran into the same problem yesterday as I was in the middle of installing a set a adjustable camber kit. Yea from everything I have read this far you have to just cut them. You can get new bolts from the dealership. That is what I did today. They $8.85 a piece.

Ref #: 018Honda Part: bolt, rr. control arm adjusting
Part Number: 52387-SDA-A00
Standard Qty.: 002
Mfg. Origin: 'USA'
Emission Types:
KA - US - 49 State Spec
Retail price:
Acura of Springfield price: $8.85

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the part #!!

TLperfection

I have the same issue. What is the best way to cut off the bolts?

NitroViper

iTrader: (2)

Cutoff wheel. I haven't cut mine off yet.

ravenjim

Had my TL in for alignment due to inside tire wear and they said that the existing arms are rusted tight and can't be adjusted. I thought I saw on here that rear camber is factory set and no adjustment can be made. They want $625 to install adjustable arms.
I have a 2006 tl and was looking at getting the Eibach PRO-ALIGNMENT Kit Acura TL 04-08 3.2L V6 Part #5.67095K. Is that one good for this vehicle?
Alignment specs are as follows
LEFT FRONT=
-0.6 CAMBER
3.1 CASTER
-0.01 TOE


RIGHT FRONT=
-0.8 CAMBER
3.1 CASTER
-0.01 TOE


LEFT REAR=
-1.4 CAMBER
0.00 TOE


RIGHT REAR =
-2.1 CAMBER
0.01 TOE

blkmz3

$625 to install the arms? Geez. It's like 2 bolts. I thought my rear camber was bad but -2.1 is pretty bad. Your tires are probably wearing real fast on the inner. The stock rear arm doesn't have camber adjustment. You need to get aftermarket set. I have the ingalls kit and plan on getting it installed. The shop guy wanted $80 and that included re-alignment of the rear.

ravenjim

I ordered the Eibachs and will try to install myself. Have to get those alignment readings within spec and eliminate more tire wear. Some people are claiming that camber won't wear tires that much as long as toe is good. I have to disagree, due to my experience. We'll see. I am also getting them aligned at a different shop to eliminate any calibration problems with my current setup.

TLperfection

Hey guys…I am planning to cut off the bolts and remove the old arm next week….can I just use a jack and jack stands to do this or will I need a lift?

blkmz3

you can do it on jackstands. I backed my car on rhino ramps with the wheels on.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

I'd put some antiseize on the new cam adjusting bolt that goes through the control arm. The last time I had mine off, given I've read about all the problems people have, I put never-seize on the shaft of the bolt where it goes through the control arm so as to prevent it from seizing up in the future.

ravenjim

I finally got a chance to install my Eibach camber kit today. Wasn't nearly as difficult as others have experienced. First thing I did was PB Blasted it for a few hours prior to removal.


The bolts (14mm socket) holding the arms in the back were in like new condition and came out very easy. The larger nut is welded to the frame so don't try and remove it, you can't.


I purchased a ball joint remover tool from Harbor Freight for $16 after 20% off coupon and the thing worked like a champ. Just put some pressure on the joint and hit it with a hammer, then...pop, it's off.


I took the new adjustable arms apart and put never seize on all the threads and adjusted them to the approximate length of old ones with same amount of threads on both sides.


When installing you need to preload the arm before tightening the rear bolt to eliminate wear on the rubber bushing. Just set a jack stand under the wheel and lower the car until it fully rests on the the stand and then tighten the rear arm bolts. Some guys have complained about them prematurely wearing out and this may be the reason.


After lowering the car with wheels on, I noticed the one wheel was really leaning inward, so I adjusted the arm with a level on the brake rotor to being level vertically and now it looks much better. Chalked the tires and took it for a spin and wear was in the middle and not outer edges.


I have an appointment for an alignment tomorrow so we'll see how it goes from here on out.


Thanks for all the tips on here, it really is appreciated!

TLperfection

I am doing mine this weekend, wish me luck.

wojo1988

My camber arms had the bolts seized inside the arm so I had to cut those off and aswell on the toe arms!!! Ive replaced all of the bolts washers and nuts and just put my new ingalls arms in. I did a self alignment with string and will take it to a shop to get it dialed in soon!. PITA

ravenjim

Took my TL in for wheel alignment today. I told them I installed new rear upper arms so the camber can be adjusted. They called me and said the alignment was right on spec. They said however I adjusted the arms, it worked. I guess I got lucky with that one. I purchased their lifetime alignment and will keep an eye on the tires. If they continue to wear on inner edges I'll have them adjust some of the negative camber out.