dmb4325

I have brembos in the front and I am going to need rotors soon. Anyway, I found rotors online for 202 for the set in front, but what is better, slotted or drilled? A buddy of mine told me a long time to never get drilled cause they crack in the winter, is this true or is he on crack? Thanks

gatoferoz25

iTrader: (13)

he must be on crack ...lmao...

I hate cars

Try a search, there are several recent discussions on this subject just a page or two down. Most recent addition is the RacingBrake 1pc rotors for the Brembo equipped cars. Probably the best, most cost effective solution.

I've purchased some white papers on crossdrilling rotors. Very interesting and surprising info. I wrote a summary somewhere on here.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

I would say, if you can to wait just a bit for the Racingbrake open-slot replacement rotors to come out. There will be a promo price not much more than the oem replacements you see, but the benefits are going to be huge compared to all the competition out there.

dmb4325

Are you going to carry this rotors? I might be getting this done now cause Tire Rack had the rotors on special for 202 for the pair. Would you be able to give me an approximate price? I may also be ordering other mods too, so I may just wait and get it all from you. Thanks

jray906

iTrader: (1)

I will just pick Drilled only, because slotted will eat your pad faster but slotted can give you performance. The truth is if you are not on track, drilled rotors are enough for you on "daily freeway racing".

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Unless you road race your car, regular rotors would do just fine. I think modern brake pad technology has surpassed alot of the need for these types of rotors. They may still help slightly, depending on your braking habits at the track. But for daily driving, I think it's all show. I also read somewhere about how our rotors aren't "big brake kits" such as the ones stock on the 63 AMGs and such so drilling our tiny rotors will sacrifice rotor room and is a waste. If anything I would get just slotted.

I hate cars

I've posted the technical paper summary of rotor slotting and drilling. Drilling offers a few advantages and very few disadvantages when done right. Same with slotted.

Most BBK are not needed and are for show as you say. I do agree with this and I don't really understand spending that kind of money for the performance look.

Stock Brembos should've been the standard brakes for the base TL. They're sort of entry level for a decent brake but again, they're only 12.2". However, you have to remember that many of the AMG cars that run the huge rotors also weigh 4,500lbs to 5,200lbs and the TL weighs 3,500lbs. A 13" rotor on the TL will do just as well as a 15" rotor on the AMG.

My friend's Mercedes CL65 AMG has over 600hp, over 700lbs of torque and weighs over 5,000lbs with 15" brakes. Honestly I would bet my 13" Rotoras hold up better under track conditions.

Hondaforlife954

Im about to hit my 50K mark on my 08 TLS and want to do a bunch of stuff at 60k. Like new rotors and pads. I saw those Racingbrake rotors on your website. Are they true full floating? Do they make alot of noise when driving over things? I have True full floating brembos on my CBR954 and they are absolutely the best rotors i have ever used. Even tho they are undersized for my bike i have never had a smoother braking experience. Will i notice the same thing on a car? They are pricey. is there a warranty with them? what is the life expectancy of them? do they make a non-floating for the rear to match the look? HAS ANYONE TRIED THESE OUT? What brake pads are recommend for these? any discounts available? Sorry for all the Q's. Any help would be great!

cheers

j1n

iTrader: (1)

i went with slotted and drilled cause my last set of rotors got warped.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

Of course we carry the Racingbrake Open-Slots! Actually, I am going to be the only place to get them once they are released.

Tire Rack doesn't carry Racingbrake. Anything you get there is either inferior or more costly (cryo treated power slots).

We are selling these rotors now in our HT-Spec brake packages:
https://acurazine.com/forums/newrepl...ply&p=12161784
This is the entry level kit that includes the open slot rotors for brembo-caliper cars. We already have 2 pre-orders in 1 week. We are really excited about these!

This is completely untrue. If you aren't on the track all you NEED are stock rotors. A HT-Spec Stage 0 upgrade with pads, lines, and fluid are all that are needed to get a nice street enhancement.

Slots and drills really don't impact the pad life to significant degree. This is not a reason not to buy them.

We feel that the benefits of a rotor should go BEYOND slots and drills. For the street driver these benefits are largely cosmetic. We support real innovations such as curved vanes, high grade materials, and reinforced hub designs. You can only get these features from Racingbrake.

What you don't want to forget about are processes that make rotors wear slower. This is the actual problem with European rotors. They simply wear out too fast causing expensive replacement need and massive amounts of black dust on the wheels.

I'll also note that the surface area of the rotor really does not impact the braking at all. I am assuming this is what you mean by "rotor room." The idea that holes in the rotor reduce friction is a myth.

yes the Racingbrake 2-piece rotors extremely high quality full-floating designs. Any noise you get is going to be a byproduct of the pad compound you use. I use the ET500s on the street with the 2-piece rotors and they are not noisy. Very rarely to I get any squeaks out of them, even after weeks of driving without a wash.

The rotors on a bike move a bit more than on a car, but yes these are simply the best OEM rotors you can buy and I stand behind that 1000%.

Check out our HT-Spec Stage 3 kit. It is a bit pricey but will give phenomenal braking with improved life over stock parts!

Slots and drills have nothing to do with warping. I'd even go so far as to say your brakes were probably not really warped when you replaced them. I'd put money that a Stage 0 kit would have fixed any shaking you had with some aggressive bedding. Of course, I know the slots and drills look and work great. But don't think they are keeping the shakes at bay. That is really a pad change attribute.


Marcus

Hondaforlife954

Marcus,

I am a big DIY guy and love working on things myself. saves money and i have fun learning how things work. Is there any special tool i would need to purchase if i bought the stage 3 kit? In the picture you show some brake lines, are they replacements, add ons? Kinda new to this. It is pricey for the stage 3 kit but i spent 500$ just for the rotors on my CBR. which after i put them on it was well worth the money!

I was reading that if you got an 08 tl-s the front brake Calipers are brembo but with the words "acura" on them, is this true?

Whats the shipping est. for these?

thanks,

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

The only "special" too you need is a 10mm flare-nut wrench for the brake lines! Everything else is pretty conventional.

For bleeding, we are working on the simplest DIY we've seen (many people over-complicate this). For the bitchy rotor screws, there are many methods of removing them (I prefer this one: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/pitboard/?p=143).

$500 for bike rotors is huge. I just got a Duc and I was like WOAH on rotor pricing. Car brakes are a much better value IMO!

Yes, the black "Acura" calipers are Brembos! In case you see this "UA6" and "UA7", those are chassis designations for your car. A UA6 is a 04-08 TL non-S, and a UA7 ius a 07-08 TL-S.

Add the Stage 3 kit to cart for a shipped cost
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/HT-Spec-B...-pr-65495.html

Marcus
949-295-1668

Hondaforlife954

Thanks for the info! yeah my buddy use to race ducs and got a brembo discount, i paid 500 but normally they are 650-700$