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Not true at all, some toe is within spec. My LF and RF are both .01°, LR is at .04°, and RR is .06°. Total front toe is .03, total rear toe is .09, all within spec.
OP, I'm not sure your total toe is within spec, but it's probably close. Keep in mind that as these cars age the toe adjusters wear out on a lot of cars, and need to be replaced. Could be the case with your car, I know 2 of mine are near frozen and will need to be replaced soon.
Not true at all, some toe is within spec. My LF and RF are both .01°, LR is at .04°, and RR is .06°. Total front toe is .03, total rear toe is .09, all within spec.
OP, I'm not sure your total toe is within spec, but it's probably close. Keep in mind that as these cars age the toe adjusters wear out on a lot of cars, and need to be replaced. Could be the case with your car, I know 2 of mine are near frozen and will need to be replaced soon.
It's best to get the toe as close to zero as possible as with some cars, having the toe at the outer limits, but still in spec, will result in slight edge wear.
Using your specs, front L/R .01 degrees, front total toe .03 degrees equates to .004"/.012" which certainly isn't too far from zero.
Rear .09 degrees, .038" , but as the specs are -.16/.16 degrees, the total max settings could be or total .136" or .068" each side.
OP-As I'm a firm believer in having all settings within spec, rear camber needs to be adjusted with an aftermarket camber kit.
Some will say that the camber setting isn't that far off and won't wear the tire quickly, but it will increase wear, so add the kit
and get it aligned. As far the thrust angle usually that can be correct with the toe settings.
The front caster can't be adjusted, so something is worn/bent, so check LCA bushings.
OP-As I'm a firm believer in having all settings within spec, rear camber needs to be adjusted with an aftermarket camber kit.
Some will say that the camber setting isn't that far off and won't wear the tire quickly, but it will increase wear, so add the kit
and get it aligned.
Anything up to -1.5° in the rear is within spec, but to have 1 side -1.8° and the other side -.9° is pretty weird. As the car ages the negative camber will increase naturally, so one looks a bit natural, and the other doesn't. The most probably cause is the LR strut sagging because it's blown, or the RR strut is a lot newer, so I'd definitely check the struts out before getting a camber kit.
If the strut let the car drop on that side I would think it would be quite noticeable, so I believe it's not the strut.
Just like yours, are you saying you have a bad strut, doubt it, but bushing wear, frame components wear, etc.
Just like the front of cars that were produced without strut braces, the towers work themselves inward, the
camber is out and only way to correct is to get the towers back to normal, install a bar, or if marginal, offset
camber bolts can be used on some.
Personally, as I've stated before, I can't stand a car that is out of spec and would spend some time finding
out why and correct.
08-10-2016, 07:32 PM
