Alignment issues??
#1
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
Alignment issues??
Just got some tires replaced since had some pretty bad tire wear on both my passanger front and rear..So I got them replaced and the aligment done.. Firestone comes back with the print out showing that my rear camber is gone.. Never worked on this before and need some advice.. Should I stick with OEM?? How hard is this on a 1-10 to change them out?? ECT ECT... Thanks in advance!
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
camber is an angle made by the vehicles suspension geometry.
when he said your camber is out, he means that the angle the wheel is at is out of factory spec.
there is no adjustments for camber on the TL.
there are however, TOE adjustments.
ask the alignment guy to bring TOE to 0 or close to it.
when he said your camber is out, he means that the angle the wheel is at is out of factory spec.
there is no adjustments for camber on the TL.
there are however, TOE adjustments.
ask the alignment guy to bring TOE to 0 or close to it.
#3
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
so you'll want to get the ingalls rear camber kit. comes with 2 arms per kit, so you'll need 2 kits.
a toe arm and a camber arm x2 comes to like $175 or so
the install is straight forward...but you will need to replace the inside camber bolt/washer/nut because they become seized in place from the factory. you'll have to cut off the old bolt with a sawzall and metal cutting blade with thin teeth.
after you install the kit, take it back to firestone and get them to adjust everything.
you can adjust factory toe but not camber.
a toe arm and a camber arm x2 comes to like $175 or so
the install is straight forward...but you will need to replace the inside camber bolt/washer/nut because they become seized in place from the factory. you'll have to cut off the old bolt with a sawzall and metal cutting blade with thin teeth.
after you install the kit, take it back to firestone and get them to adjust everything.
you can adjust factory toe but not camber.
#5
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^how high are you this morning?
he says his camber is GONE. i assume that means out of wack. the only way to correct that is to get adjustable camber arms. as you said, and i said, only the TOE is adjustable.
he says his camber is GONE. i assume that means out of wack. the only way to correct that is to get adjustable camber arms. as you said, and i said, only the TOE is adjustable.
The following users liked this post:
cipdagr3at (07-09-2013)
#7
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
Right, I was told that the camber is completely shot.. I think the reading was -1.70 before and after.. Everything else was adjusted to or as close to 0 as possible... So I was told I need a new camber.. Im I confusing lower controller arm with camber??
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
because camber is a term for angle.
you certainly can throw a camber kit on to correct the issue, but there is an underlying issue. maybe worn bushings.
if it were me, and the vehicle is stock, i'd look for the worn bushing instead of throwing a camber kit on it
Last edited by justnspace; 07-09-2013 at 08:19 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by JJH:
cipdagr3at (07-09-2013),
justnspace (07-09-2013)
#12
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
so your rear camber is at -1.70?
if so...don't worry about anything. that number is fine.
if so...don't worry about anything. that number is fine.
The following 2 users liked this post by SharksBreath:
cipdagr3at (07-09-2013),
justnspace (07-09-2013)
#16
Drifting
Basically what justnspace is saying is that unless you are lowered, you should NOT have any need ever for a camber kit. Something else is wrong that needs to be corrected if your camber is that far out and the toe has already been corrected. Installing a camber kit will possibly fix the camber issue for now, but there is still something else wrong and will probably show back up in time. Something is either worn out or bent.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jackass:
cipdagr3at (07-09-2013),
justnspace (07-09-2013)
#18
Deezy ™
iTrader: (2)
Yeah -1.70 is nothing to worry about as long as your toe/alignment is correct.
The questions is though ... what caused your camber to go negative? Even though that small amount of negative camber will not be a problem at all after alignment, it is indeed weird that is has gone negative on stock suspension, there may be an underlying issue going on
Was most likely because your toe was out of whack, which the alignment would have fixed, as long as there no other issues you/we are unaware of, you should be good now after alignment
But again ... what caused it to begin with? That's the question.
Related: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/do-i-need-camber-kit-606757/
The questions is though ... what caused your camber to go negative? Even though that small amount of negative camber will not be a problem at all after alignment, it is indeed weird that is has gone negative on stock suspension, there may be an underlying issue going on
But again ... what caused it to begin with? That's the question.
Related: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/do-i-need-camber-kit-606757/
Last edited by whoismiked; 07-09-2013 at 08:41 AM.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (07-09-2013)
#19
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Yeah -1.70 is nothing to worry about as long as your toe/alignment is correct.
The questions is though ... what caused your camber to go negative? Even though that small amount of negative camber will not be a problem at all after alignment, it is indeed weird that is has gone negative on stock suspension, there may be an underlying issue going on
The questions is though ... what caused your camber to go negative? Even though that small amount of negative camber will not be a problem at all after alignment, it is indeed weird that is has gone negative on stock suspension, there may be an underlying issue going on
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (07-09-2013)
#23
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
<a href="http://s291.photobucket.com/user/CIPDAGR3AT/media/Scan_Doc0001.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll302/CIPDAGR3AT/Scan_Doc0001.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Scan_Doc0001.jpg"/></a>
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
cipdagr3at (07-10-2013),
whoismiked (07-09-2013)
The following users liked this post:
cipdagr3at (10-31-2014)
#27
Race Director
OP, your tire wear was due to the right rear toe being out of spec. It's fairly typical for the TL's rear camber to hover slightly out of spec (-1.6 to -1.9 or so). However, the effects of out of spec toe are exaggerated because of this. Just keep an eye on the rear toe and you should be fine. BTW, your rear alignment specs will be dependent on / affected by weight in the rear seat/trunk. Ideally, your car's alignment should be set with your back seat/trunk loaded as close to how it would be normally when you do most of your driving.
The following users liked this post:
cipdagr3at (10-31-2014)
#28
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
OP just for reference, the picture you posted of the eibach arm is an adjustable camber link for the rear. It replaces the upper arm, which has a ball-joint.
The OEM arm with the ball-joint in it on the top of the rear knuckle looks the same without the adjustment in the middle.
There are also bushings in it, like in the photo, unlike what people previously posted. There are 5 links attached to the rear knuckle in our cars.
1 - Leading Arm (bracket attaches to bushing in the knuckle, bushing on the other end of the arm where it's bolted to the body)
2 - Upper Arm (the one of the eibach arm, without an adjustment)
3 - Lower Arm (bushings on both ends of the arm)
4 - Trailing Arm (same as leading arm but on the back side of the knuckle)
5 - Control Arm (used to adjust toe)
I agree with the others you should be good with your toe in spec and camber slightly out.
If you are concerned with it, something may be wrong with one of the links or it's mounting points throwing it out of factory specs for camber.
The OEM arm with the ball-joint in it on the top of the rear knuckle looks the same without the adjustment in the middle.
There are also bushings in it, like in the photo, unlike what people previously posted. There are 5 links attached to the rear knuckle in our cars.
1 - Leading Arm (bracket attaches to bushing in the knuckle, bushing on the other end of the arm where it's bolted to the body)
2 - Upper Arm (the one of the eibach arm, without an adjustment)
3 - Lower Arm (bushings on both ends of the arm)
4 - Trailing Arm (same as leading arm but on the back side of the knuckle)
5 - Control Arm (used to adjust toe)
I agree with the others you should be good with your toe in spec and camber slightly out.
If you are concerned with it, something may be wrong with one of the links or it's mounting points throwing it out of factory specs for camber.
The following users liked this post:
cipdagr3at (10-31-2014)
#29
HASTA LA VICTORIA'
Thread Starter
COOL!!! Thanks for the help AZINE FAM!!!.. I was really nervous slapping on the new tires and was hoping not to get wear them out so quick like the last set.. Just out of curiousity how often does an aligment have to be done to avoid tire wear.. I wish I would taken a pic of it.. It looked like the inner wall was ready to blow.. Thanks again fellas it really helped!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
3
11-14-2015 01:20 PM
Zonian22
Member Cars for Sale
1
09-02-2015 08:19 AM