Just got some tires replaced since had some pretty bad tire wear on both my passanger front and rear..So I got them replaced and the aligment done.. Firestone comes back with the print out showing that my rear camber is gone.. Never worked on this before and need some advice.. Should I stick with OEM?? How hard is this on a 1-10 to change them out?? ECT ECT... Thanks in advance!

 

camber is an angle made by the vehicles suspension geometry.
when he said your camber is out, he means that the angle the wheel is at is out of factory spec.

there is no adjustments for camber on the TL.
there are however, TOE adjustments.

ask the alignment guy to bring TOE to 0 or close to it.

 

so you'll want to get the ingalls rear camber kit. comes with 2 arms per kit, so you'll need 2 kits.

a toe arm and a camber arm x2 comes to like $175 or so

the install is straight forward...but you will need to replace the inside camber bolt/washer/nut because they become seized in place from the factory. you'll have to cut off the old bolt with a sawzall and metal cutting blade with thin teeth.

after you install the kit, take it back to firestone and get them to adjust everything.

you can adjust factory toe but not camber.

 

^if he isnt lowered, why would he need a camber kit?

 

^how high are you this morning?

he says his camber is GONE. i assume that means out of wack. the only way to correct that is to get adjustable camber arms. as you said, and i said, only the TOE is adjustable.

 

^correct, but if our car didnt come with one, why would you add one??
I would look at worn bushings and other suspension related components first, before adding a camber kit, if stock.


if lowered, then sure! i'd add a camber kit to correct the geometry.

 

Right, I was told that the camber is completely shot.. I think the reading was -1.70 before and after.. Everything else was adjusted to or as close to 0 as possible... So I was told I need a new camber.. Im I confusing lower controller arm with camber??

 

You CANT have a new camber.
because camber is a term for angle.

you certainly can throw a camber kit on to correct the issue, but there is an underlying issue. maybe worn bushings.

if it were me, and the vehicle is stock, i'd look for the worn bushing instead of throwing a camber kit on it

 

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...ih/567095k.jpg.. Something like this right??

 

I have no experience with camber kits, since im not lowered and dont need them.
aaron, would ya like to help?

 

I think that's for the front OP.

Clarify with the alignment shop what exactly is bad. The rear arm should never go out of spec for camber. It doesn't even have rubber bushings that can go bad.

 

so your rear camber is at -1.70?

if so...don't worry about anything. that number is fine.

 

Thanks.

 

thanks.

 

So how does that explain my tire wear in the inner wall?? When I get off of work, I'll try to upload the print out of the readings..

 

Basically what justnspace is saying is that unless you are lowered, you should NOT have any need ever for a camber kit. Something else is wrong that needs to be corrected if your camber is that far out and the toe has already been corrected. Installing a camber kit will possibly fix the camber issue for now, but there is still something else wrong and will probably show back up in time. Something is either worn out or bent.

 

Got it.. Thanks for the clarification. So what should I be looking at now? Lower and upper controller arms? Front bushings?

 

Yeah -1.70 is nothing to worry about as long as your toe/alignment is correct.


The questions is though ... what caused your camber to go negative? Even though that small amount of negative camber will not be a problem at all after alignment, it is indeed weird that is has gone negative on stock suspension, there may be an underlying issue going on

Was most likely because your toe was out of whack, which the alignment would have fixed, as long as there no other issues you/we are unaware of, you should be good now after alignment

But again ... what caused it to begin with? That's the question.


Related: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/do-i-need-camber-kit-606757/

 

Our rear inner tires tend to wear faster than other cars. This is because from the factory we have negative camber in spec. If you want to mitigate this issue, have them 0 out your camber if you decide to go aftermarket. Factory specs for rear camber are negative though, and therefore will cause the rear tires to wear faster on the inner edges....toe is what wears tires out quickly though.

It's not weird that his camber was negative. Our cars are like that stock. To go further negative out of spec is indeed weird especially when there are really no parts that can "go bad" or wear out in relation to the rear camber.

 

thanks MikeD for the article!

and if there are no moving parts, like stated from JJH, then the alignment fixed the camber issue.

 

 

so can anyone read this???

 

<a href="http://s291.photobucket.com/user/CIPDAGR3AT/media/Scan_Doc0001.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll302/CIPDAGR3AT/Scan_Doc0001.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Scan_Doc0001.jpg"/></a>

 

Fucking shit!!! I can't get it to load.. Help

 

photobucket has these cool tags that you can use directly.
to the right of the page it says "links to share"
I clicked on IMG and it copied it to my clipboard.
I then pasted it directly into the "reply box"


p.s. your car is spot on!!!

 

Your alignment looks good, should have no problems now

 

OP, your tire wear was due to the right rear toe being out of spec. It's fairly typical for the TL's rear camber to hover slightly out of spec (-1.6 to -1.9 or so). However, the effects of out of spec toe are exaggerated because of this. Just keep an eye on the rear toe and you should be fine. BTW, your rear alignment specs will be dependent on / affected by weight in the rear seat/trunk. Ideally, your car's alignment should be set with your back seat/trunk loaded as close to how it would be normally when you do most of your driving.

 

OP just for reference, the picture you posted of the eibach arm is an adjustable camber link for the rear. It replaces the upper arm, which has a ball-joint.

The OEM arm with the ball-joint in it on the top of the rear knuckle looks the same without the adjustment in the middle.

There are also bushings in it, like in the photo, unlike what people previously posted. There are 5 links attached to the rear knuckle in our cars.

1 - Leading Arm (bracket attaches to bushing in the knuckle, bushing on the other end of the arm where it's bolted to the body)

2 - Upper Arm (the one of the eibach arm, without an adjustment)

3 - Lower Arm (bushings on both ends of the arm)

4 - Trailing Arm (same as leading arm but on the back side of the knuckle)

5 - Control Arm (used to adjust toe)


I agree with the others you should be good with your toe in spec and camber slightly out.

If you are concerned with it, something may be wrong with one of the links or it's mounting points throwing it out of factory specs for camber.

 

COOL!!! Thanks for the help AZINE FAM!!!.. I was really nervous slapping on the new tires and was hoping not to get wear them out so quick like the last set.. Just out of curiousity how often does an aligment have to be done to avoid tire wear.. I wish I would taken a pic of it.. It looked like the inner wall was ready to blow.. Thanks again fellas it really helped!