rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so I'm one for not paying for name brand for certain things. I bought Ichiba spacers and stripped 2 of the nuts (yeah...probably should have torqued to spec) but it got me thinkin. It's a piece of milled solid aluminum. It's not a complex component.

I did a little research and akata is actually made by or in conjunction with the people that make vossen wheels. They are very popular and being put on high end cars. And located in Cutler Ridge (if you're from Sofla).

They make small spacers with the cutout to fit your own hub center, the ones that are hubcentric and are used with longer studs, and the version 2 types that bolt to your stock lugs.

Review:
Build quality was great, as expected. The nuts that torque down were a 21MM...make sure you have a thin walled socket though...I had to use a 12 point 3/8" IIRC. I torqued to 80 foot pound in a star pattern as with the rims and what I remembered is the RIGHT torque spec for em. Drove around aggressively on them and they held up just fine (read: drove it harder than my fiance ever will)...no creaking or fitment issues at all. Very nicely packaged and marketed IMO.

Figured I'd share a viable option for those looking for spacers. Only downside is they go 20MM and lower, they don't go higher, probably for safety reasons (that actually made me feel better that they won't go sell you a 50MM spacer).

Here are some pics...the rear was tucked in almost an inch more before the spacer obviously.

COST:
$75 shipped from ebay (akataspacer is the seller).
add $5 Fl tax if you're local.

Enjoy!

jwr0ng626

iTrader: (1)

wow surprised no one commented lol

is the pic of the accord after spacers installed?

So ive never worked w/ spacers before.... do the lugs go thru the holes (of the spacers) and the bolts on the spacers hold the wheel?

raydiddy

Yea I know, thread has been out for a minute it looks like...

But yes the spacer fits over your studs thru the holes, and the nuts will hold that spacer to the rotors. These are usually the V2 versions with pressed studs in the spacers that do that..
There are the flat kind of spacers which don't come with pressed studs, but with does you have to change the original studs with a longer one depending on spacer size u go with.. Anything over 5mm u change your studs.

murph145

^ i think im guna have to try a set of the 20's look exactly like my ichibas id imagine same quality just a machined piece of metal.... i wondered why ichibas and project kicks were so expensive and that there were no other makers out there

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I tend to agree...and since they machine wheels down here...I gave it a whirl. I DEFINITELY recommend having a thin walled 21MM one deep socket though...the ichiba's are 19's...these are 21. The only difference was that...other than that, they have held up just fine and bolted up no problem.



Yes, that picture is after install...on the rear only. One day I might go with a 30MM on the rear and move those to the front.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

akata = ebay spacers MAD people run them, they always been good

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

akata=vossen wheels, or at least affiliated and also ebay sellers...I agree, they get the job done without paying for Louis Vuitton prices on a piece of metal.

omnuts

^ I might look into these, considering getting some spacers, but expensive for just a "piece of aluminum", great

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Glad I could share...I say, go for it...almost 1/2 price the bigger name brands!

NOTSKERDD

I read in this site, that if you do them make sure the front is 1/4 smaller. E.g...if you get 20mm for back get 15mm for front.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, it depends on how bad the front/back are to begin with. On the 8th Gen accord...the rear is MUCH more than 5mm sunken in in comparison to the fronts.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

as said, all completely depends on the car for the difference between the front and rear





also as you mention in the first post, with one of the bolts stripping out, part of the reason why i like the longer stud type of ones, with no low profile lug nuts or anything, just one fastener (actually 5) to break instead of two places to potentially break (ie: not depending on the aluminum to hold the wheel on)

ionojimbo

im still new to spacer so pardon my noobness.

i want 15mm for my fronts for some my volks (18x8 +50) to clear the brembos so is this the right one i am looking at? 64.1 center and 5x114.3

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/15mm-...Q5fAccessories

and since these come with the attached studs i dont need anything else right? i have some rays lugs if that makes a difference.

murph145

i would run 20mm spacers with that rim offset just my opinion

and no you dont need anything else just the spacers as mentioned

ionojimbo

i wouldnt rub or anything right? im on stock suspension but i will probably throw some springs and drop it like 1-2" later on

MasterShake

iTrader: (1)

What do the stud specs mean? Of the ones at Excelerate, I can only find one difference: UHL. 1.85 vs 2.85.

I'm guessing it's the length (stock vs extended), but by how much?

If I were to get the 10mm and 15mm Akatas w/o studs, which studs should I get? Is 10mm thin enough to go with stock studs?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Has to do with the length of the stud and how far thru the spacer you need to run.

I am running +35 up front and am very close to rubbing, even with the tabs cut. If you're not too low, you can get away with it, but I think a 15MM is good enough.

FRIES: I agree...i just like the option of being able to easily add/remove them.

Vigor66

OP, is a thin wall socket absolutely necessary? Just wondering if I can get away without having to buy one.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

sockets are not that expensive, even for reasonable quality ones, such as craftsman, probably for like $10 or so

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

You will thank me later...ABSOLUTELY have a thin walled 21MM on hand to install. You CAN get buy with a 5/8 or 7/8" 12 point socket...but it's not a perfect fit so after torquing you have to use a set of pliers and fight that shit off. It's THAT tight. IF you have a normal 21MM socket, give it a go and let us know...figured a thin walled would be the best bet.

I got a set from amazon, chicago electric...magnetic, thin walled, deep socket...17", 19", 21" in a little case (good for rims!) for $19 shipped. Works for me!

Timb227

iTrader: (3)

If I were to go with 15mm on my rears (wheels are +40, should I go 20mm?) is there any cutting of existing studs required or do the spacers at either 15 or 20mm cover the OEM studs?

raydiddy

^ depends on your rim. If they have sluts within the inside of them to fit the lil extension of the stock lugs then you wont need cutting, but if they are flush then yes, cutting is required.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

If you have to cut, I'd recommend going with Version 1's and replace your stock studs. You cut the lug and you will lose where the threading starts and it will SUCK to try and get it on.

PS...let us know what rims you have because I'm in for some of those "sluts" too.

lakers9

i really like the look. i am not buying any rims yet. i want the look. i have a 2008 acura TL. basically stock, what size do i need for front/back (fitments?) and do they affect the ride or anything else

Timb227

iTrader: (3)

I have a set of 18x8 +40 (got a great deal on them) TSW Snettertons but the offset is a little weak, so I was thinking 15 or 20mm for the rears. I'm lowered on Tokico Blues and H&R sport springs.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Yes, they make it so you can take corners a little more aggressively. What size...your guess, man. Do a little googling...basically, measure how far out you want the wheels to sit in comparison to where it is now and go with that.

Timb227

iTrader: (3)

I just don't want to have to cut or replace the studs, I'm not that mechanically inclined.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Go to a local mechanic, probably won't charge you more than a few bucks to swap em out.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

not quite sure if you are saying cut the studs or the lug nuts (assuming the studs)


if indeed, all you do it get a proper OPEN lug nut, thread it on, THEN CUT, and when you take the nut off afterwards it will kinda reshape the threads to the proper shape (but either way gotta replace them though if you take the spacers off, cause then they be too short for the stock wheels)


can you at least do brakes properly? cause studs are not that much more to replace (at least on a honda, some cars differ)

stvtec

iTrader: (2)

Oooh I know! Just stack two 25mm spacers!


Looks good man.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

talking about the studs...not the lugs. Oh, didn't realize that would work...I guess it kinda taps (like tap and die set) the cut stud then. My bad.

Thanks man...yeah, she's happy with it.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

it still is not "perfect" for cutting/shaping the new/damaged/cut threads (a die would be better to thread on then a nut though)
but yeah even a nut will give quite satisfactory results though

stvtec

iTrader: (2)

As someone said earlier, there is no need to cut the lug studs down if the wheel is open behind the spokes as many wheels are.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^That is very true, OEM's have the space behind, my works have the space behind and most rims I've seen have the space.

robertran88

i would like to put on spacers for my 07 S aswell what mm should i go with and still be safe? 10, 20??

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

seems like most will say 15 up front, 20 rear.

abracing

Thanks to rockstars review I also got these spacers. After being on the car for two weeks i would say that it fits really well and no vibrations at all. Im very pleased with it and would buy it again over the expensive brands. I also noticed that theres less centrifugal force when taking turns at speed. Btw i got 15mm front and 20mm rears on stock s rims.

P.S: its my first time using spacers so out of paranoia i took off the wheels twice to recheck torque.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thanks, man...nicely done! Glad it worked out for you too! I actually will also be taking my girl's wheels off to confirm torque again too.

raydiddy

^^ So what was your result when u rechecked torque?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Probably didn't budge...
Ever notice how you'll torque down rims or something to a certain spec...then drive around and with the heat and pressure and weight, it actually feels tighter after?!?!

Just for anal people...gotta check.