ads215

(Car is 2006 TL manual trans with 80k miles.)

Here's a classic example of why it pays to learn at least some basics about repair work. Sadly, what I know about this stuff could be engraved on the head of a pin.

A month ago I had a "complete" brake job, i.e. pads and rotors from a shop I've used for a long time. All was well until two weeks later (and 500+ miles from home) when I'm coming down from 4300 feet on a twisting road and the pedal almost goes to the floor. Pumping them allowed me to gain some measure of control but it wasn't fun.

Took the car in to a seemingly reliable shop (per reviews on a popular site) and they said I had a locked up caliper on the rear driver's side and they had to replace it and the pad. They said it would be 450 for one side or 650 for both. I opted both.

So, questions are 1) should the mechanics that did the original brake job have noticed and replaced the bad caliper? 2) Before I disclose what I paid for each job I'd be curious to hear what those in fairly big cities are paying for these repairs.

I feel like I should talk about the original shop but not even sure what to ask.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Yezhik

Definitely take the receipt from the 2nd job, and take it to the 1st mechanic.

File a complaint, make a fuss, but it seems like the 1st mechanic screwed up, and didn't say anything.

pbook4g5

Given that our rear calipers go bad a lot, I wouldn't think the 1st job had anything to do with what happened. Although the mechanic would have noticed how stiff the rear caliper was when he replaced the pads on it.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

First, a "locked up" caliper won't cause the pedal go to the floor, so probably the brakes overheated on the downhill ride, boiled the fluid and pedal went to the floor. If the car were left to sit for quite a while the brakes would come back to normal. After coming to a complete stop the temps actually rise for a short period before starting to cool down.

So, my opinion is that the first mechanic did what he was paid to do, but with the second you were taken for a ride.

Next time when decending a steep grade, keep the trans in a lower gear to help maintain a given speed, or even pull off to let things cool down before proceeding.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

^One item I want to add is that if the brake fluid hasn't been change/flushed since new, or for many years, moisture in the system will cause the boiling point of the brake fluid to drop significantly and problems will arise quickly.

Vlad_Type_S

iTrader: (3)

This.

I also believe the 2nd guy took you for a ride because a seized caliper definitely won't cause pedal behavior like that.

And I also agree with the brake fluid point. My mom's Fusion had a really low brake pedal, had to press it all the way to the floor to get the car to stop. I changed the fluid, boom problem gone.

So your actual issue was either overheating, old fluid, or an intermittent issue with the master cylinder (but this is extremely unlikely compared to the other two).

So everything Turbonut already said.

Will Y.

And THAT is why the maintenance schedule for the TL calls for a complete change of brake fluid every three years-- no exceptions, and it's the only time-based maintenance task that is NOT in the Maintenance Minder system.

NBP04TL4ME

ads215

100% agree with Turbonut. Althought it isn't specifically spelled out in your original post, but is a "complete brake job" pads and rotors on all four corners or did you just have the fronts done?

flyromeo3

I hope paying 450 was for all 4 corners.
If not, he got

NBP04TL4ME

Understood and hope you are correct but OP also agreed to $650 for two rear calipers..............

ads215

First of all THANKS to everyone who replied. It really is appreciated.

Yes, it did include pads and rotors on all four corners.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Turbonut nailed it on the head. I would also like to mention based on your statement

"A month ago I had a "complete" brake job, i.e. pads and rotors from a shop I've used for a long time."

The 2nd shop is saying "locked" caliper, however just 500 miles prior you had an entire brake job done. Caliper is locked, wouldn't you think the 1st shop would have called and said " we can't finish the job because your caliper is NON COMPRESSIBLE, therefore you need a caliper" Frozen calipers don't push back in and if they do, you have some super strength and one hell of a beefy tool.

pbook4g5

FWIW, the dealership told me my rear calipers were "stiff" but they weren't to the point of un-compressable.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

You got raped by the second place. You can buy the rear calipers for around $60 each at any auto parts store. Then, most likely they threw on some el cheapo pads. Probably took them an hour to do the entire job, including a quick bleed. They also most likely did you the courtesy of impacting your lugs to 150+ ft lbs of torque. Try to break the lugs with the wrench in your trunk and if you can't do it, I'd take the car back and tell them spec is 80 ft lbs.

JTS97Z28

iTrader: (4)

Just go to Acura if you need someone else to work on your car, not some corner mechanic.