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Windshield washer not spraying when I hit the lever??
I’ve checked all my fuses and they are good. Hooked up direct power to the washer motor and it sprayed out with no issue thru nozzles.I have power at the plug that connects to motor... I’m stuck can’t figure the issue. Any help will be much appreciated thanks
This diagram is for 2008 TL. All other models *should* be the same.
Washer motor gets key-on power through under-dash fuse #20 and is controlled by supplying ground by washer motor relay (under-hood fuse box).
That relay is build-in into under-hood fuse box and normally is not replaceable.
There is a possibility that switch itself has failed, not a relay. Normally wiper blades should start moving while you are spraying the windshield. Do they? If yes I'm assuming switch does work and all modules have communication with each other.
In that case either find another under-hood fuse box or replace that relay. Replacing will require soldering and finding at least very similar relay. There might be some info about doing that on the forum. Don't know didn't look but people replaced relays in inside fuse box before.
It wouldn't hurt to check rest of the fuses, or at least all of the fuses listed on this diagram.
This diagram is for 2008 TL. All other models *should* be the same.
Washer motor gets key-on power through under-dash fuse #20 and is controlled by supplying ground by washer motor relay (under-hood fuse box).
That relay is build-in into under-hood fuse box and normally is not replaceable.
There is a possibility that switch itself has failed, not a relay. Normally wiper blades should start moving while you are spraying the windshield. Do they? If yes I'm assuming switch does work and all modules have communication with each other.
In that case either find another under-hood fuse box or replace that relay. Replacing will require soldering and finding at least very similar relay. There might be some info about doing that on the forum. Don't know didn't look but people replaced relays in inside fuse box before.
It wouldn't hurt to check rest of the fuses, or at least all of the fuses listed on this diagram.
yes when I hit the lever my wiper blades do move. The fuse on #20 is a 7.5 but I been seeing on the web fuse diagram it’s a 15 amp? Can that be the issue ?
If that would be the problem that fuse would blew and you wouldn't have power.
Seems like that fuse is dependent on year / model of the car. Manual for 2008 model claims it should be 15A, manual for 2004 model claims it should be 7.5A.
That's why you should always provide full info when asking. It would be nice to know what car exactly you have, but rest of the diagram shouldn't have any noticeable changes.
In any case, from all the info you provided, most likely something is wrong with under-hood fuse box. Either that relay, or whatever is responsible for turning that relay is not working.
There is a small chance something is wrong with ground that goes to that relay (J3)
If that would be the problem that fuse would blew and you wouldn't have power.
Seems like that fuse is dependent on year / model of the car. Manual for 2008 model claims it should be 15A, manual for 2004 model claims it should be 7.5A.
That's why you should always provide full info when asking. It would be nice to know what car exactly you have, but rest of the diagram shouldn't have any noticeable changes.
In any case, from all the info you provided, most likely something is wrong with under-hood fuse box. Either that relay, or whatever is responsible for turning that relay is not working.
There is a small chance something is wrong with ground that goes to that relay (J3)
ya my cars a 2004, forgot to mention that. I went n bought a new switch/lever so hopefully that will fix the issue maybe🤷🏻♂️ If not it may be a wire or relay just have to keep trouble shooting
If switch would be broken, computer wouldn't know that you pressed (or actually pulled) it, so there would be no washer fluid motor running, and no wipers moving. That's why I asked if wipers start to move when you pull the level, and you wrote that they do, thus it must mean that switch is working.
If you want to be sure if wire is not broken, then get to the connector directly at under-hood fuse box. Connector J is what you are looking for. It should be brown, and make sure wire colors on the connector you found correspond to colors on this page:
Put one side of test light at the battery positive, and other side to the J1 (white/black wire). If you pull the washer level, this wire should be grounded and light should turn on. If probed with multimeter, that wire should read battery voltage with key on (as circuit is closed by washer motor).
If switch would be broken, computer wouldn't know that you pressed (or actually pulled) it, so there would be no washer fluid motor running, and no wipers moving. That's why I asked if wipers start to move when you pull the level, and you wrote that they do, thus it must mean that switch is working.
If you want to be sure if wire is not broken, then get to the connector directly at under-hood fuse box. Connector J is what you are looking for. It should be brown, and make sure wire colors on the connector you found correspond to colors on this page:
Put one side of test light at the battery positive, and other side to the J1 (white/black wire). If you pull the washer level, this wire should be grounded and light should turn on. If probed with multimeter, that wire should read battery voltage with key on (as circuit is closed by washer motor).
thanks a lot !! Ur help is so much appreciated 👍 that has to be the issue maybe the grounded wire broken , cause I did check all fuses and were good, checked washer motor and that is good , even went n bought a new lever and still didn’t fix the issue
So looks like I have a broken ground somewere ? I tested it with a test light and it didn’t light up . Now that I think bout it.... see a rat got under my hood and ate up the windshield washer hose right after the washer motor. I fixed that but still nothing came out . No wires looked ate up around there ... so now I have to search hard
Where did you test? Right at the fuse box? If yes then check voltage with multimeter between that pin and ground (with key on should see battery voltage), or ground that wire (best go through some fuse) and check if washer will operate (with key on). Ground it only if you are 100% sure you got the right wire.
So I found the cut up wire soldered it back together and still nothing 😕, I maybe still have another cut somewere else . I’ll check tomarrow Already spent too much time working on it and frustrated will check the wire under the fuse box again tomorrow
If switch would be broken, computer wouldn't know that you pressed (or actually pulled) it, so there would be no washer fluid motor running, and no wipers moving. That's why I asked if wipers start to move when you pull the level, and you wrote that they do, thus it must mean that switch is working.
If you want to be sure if wire is not broken, then get to the connector directly at under-hood fuse box. Connector J is what you are looking for. It should be brown, and make sure wire colors on the connector you found correspond to colors on this page:
Put one side of test light at the battery positive, and other side to the J1 (white/black wire). If you pull the washer level, this wire should be grounded and light should turn on. If probed with multimeter, that wire should read battery voltage with key on (as circuit is closed by washer motor).
so I soldered the wire together , tested continuity and it rang out so that’s good, so then put my test light on the connector/wire like u said n other end to battery and the light turned on . But still nothing coming out the washers
Light turned on when you pulled the washer lever inside the car or as soon as you made the connection ? Which battery terminal?
I must ask as I'm not sure if you're doing it correctly.
I connected one end of the test light to positive of battery and the other end to that washer wire on the brown plug and it lit up as soon as I did it . I didn’t need to hit the lever ?
With the key on (so all lights on the dash are lit up, like check engine or oil pressure) ?
ok so with the car off no key turned , I have the test light hooked up to battery and to the white and black washer wire and the test light is on
now when I turn key over withought starting the car the test light is off still connected to battery and to wire , I hit the washer lever and it don’t turn on ?
the white black wire is reconnected I ohm it out from the washer harness plug to under the fuse box and it rings out so there is no break in that .... all fuses are good , washer motor good and washer lever hood cause my wipers move .... now I’m really stuck
Wipers do work on intermediate mode, right?
I'm not sure if you understand the circuit diagrams that I posted.
With key off test light lights up because it tries to feed power trough the washer pump motor to all the circuits that are powered when key is on.
With key on, those circuits are already powered, so no current flows battery->test light->connector pin->washer pump, as washer pump is at battery voltage already.
If you hit the washer lever, pin in connector that you are probing should be shorted to ground via the relay that is build-in into the fusebox. If that circuit would work correctly, that pin would become ground, so test light connected between battery positive and that pin should light up.
Since test light lights up if key is off, it means that all circuits from that connector, to the washer pump, and back, must be working just fine. (or that there is short to ground somewhere, but since it doesn't lights up when key is on that means there is no short)
Since test light doesn't light up when key is on and you are pulling the washer lever, but wipers start working, that must mean that for some reason this circuit is not pulled to ground. That means that either the relay is bad, or circuitry that drives that relays coil. Either way, broken thing is inside the fusebox and under normal circumstances can't be fixed. Replacing the fuse box should be easier than fixing the old one, so I would check out used fuse boxes on ebay or some junkyard. car-part.com has a list of junkyards that you can sort by the distance.
Wipers do work on intermediate mode, right?
I'm not sure if you understand the circuit diagrams that I posted.
With key off test light lights up because it tries to feed power trough the washer pump motor to all the circuits that are powered when key is on.
With key on, those circuits are already powered, so no current flows battery->test light->connector pin->washer pump, as washer pump is at battery voltage already.
If you hit the washer lever, pin in connector that you are probing should be shorted to ground via the relay that is build-in into the fusebox. If that circuit would work correctly, that pin would become ground, so test light connected between battery positive and that pin should light up.
Since test light lights up if key is off, it means that all circuits from that connector, to the washer pump, and back, must be working just fine. (or that there is short to ground somewhere, but since it doesn't lights up when key is on that means there is no short)
Since test light doesn't light up when key is on and you are pulling the washer lever, but wipers start working, that must mean that for some reason this circuit is not pulled to ground. That means that either the relay is bad, or circuitry that drives that relays coil. Either way, broken thing is inside the fusebox and under normal circumstances can't be fixed. Replacing the fuse box should be easier than fixing the old one, so I would check out used fuse boxes on ebay or some junkyard. car-part.com has a list of junkyards that you can sort by the distance.
so I just got back from a salvage yard picked up a new under hood fuse box swapped it out and still no washer fluid coming out 😕 I’m seriously stuck now
When testing circuits that usually see >1A of current it's good to use some decent load (or at least a test light) to test them. Sometimes poor ground can still measure 0 ohm, but as soon as you put some load on it resistance will go up.
If you are sure that you are testing the right wire, turn the key on and try grounding the J1 wire. If washer will operate, and wiper blades do turn on when pulling on the washer nozzle, and wipers do work in intermediate mode, and that J3 ground is good if tested with the test light, then there is no other thing that can be bad besides the fuse box.
So either second fuse box is bad, or you are doing something wrong.
When testing circuits that usually see >1A of current it's good to use some decent load (or at least a test light) to test them. Sometimes poor ground can still measure 0 ohm, but as soon as you put some load on it resistance will go up.
If you are sure that you are testing the right wire, turn the key on and try grounding the J1 wire. If washer will operate, and wiper blades do turn on when pulling on the washer nozzle, and wipers do work in intermediate mode, and that J3 ground is good if tested with the test light, then there is no other thing that can be bad besides the fuse box.
So either second fuse box is bad, or you are doing something wrong.
Good news !!!!
so i did what u told me to do and ground J1 direct and hit the lever , and it sprayed ! So then I took the direct ground off. Tried it again and it still sprayed . Seems like it just needed a jump start 🤷🏻♂️ I have no clue but by trying that it fixed on its own 👍 once again thanks for all ur help