Ordinary day yesterday , left the gym and went to get pizza for dinner. I put the key into ignition and turned the key to turn on the car but the 1st attempted failed. 2nd time worked and I was like "wtf? 0.0" the drive was normal on the way home, woke up to go to school at 7am and i was reversing out the garage. My navi is askin me for my navi code , but my mileage was still on the meter/display so my battery didn't die (0.0) just drove downtown using my GPS and it kept turning off and on during the trip. Then after I noticed the VSA light go on my dash and then go off at the same time my navi went on and off. anybody else experience this? Any idea what's happening? Just thought I'd ask before goin to the dealer.

2008 Acura TL-S btw, 43k miles so possibly out of warranty window 0.0

 

what is 0.0?

buy a battery and get the alternator checked

 

Yea that sounds like a battery issue. Mine has been dying but I suspect HFL is dragging battery down.

Known issue.

 

0.0 was my facial expression lol..

New optima yellow battery 6 months ago. I don't have a system either so ill look into the alternator. Should that be covered under the power train warranty? I'm still under miles and under 5 years for a few more months. I'll call Acura tomorrow , thanks heavy

 

Is it a battery issue if The GPS goes off and on immediately and I'm driving with no issues when it's happening?

 

I had a yellow top that didn't last long. Those do not charge well. They are a dry cell that need to be trickle charged.

From my understanding the alternator does not charge them fully.

I could be wrong. But that sounds like a charging problem for sure.

 

Well that's disappointing... I guess I'll see what Acura says once I can set up an appointment.

 

So you ordinarily eat pizza for dinner after going to the gym?

 

haha

 

Is the Optima a GELL or AGM type battery? Gell cell types should only be charged at less than 14.1volts, and any car will charge at a higher rate than that.

An AGM type battery should be charged at 14.7volts (or so) which is higher than most vehicle alternators will charge. Exceptions are vehicles which are delivered originally with an AGM type battery. Older GM vehicle alternators were set at 14.8volts to recharge the original maintenance-free AC Delco batteries, higher than the usual 14.4volts of most vehicles.

Note that the voltages given above are the MAXIMUM voltages. Car alternators vary the actual voltage outputs depending upon various factors: engine RPM, ambient temp, etc.

Note that the RDX alternator range is 13.8 to 15.1volts nominal (within defined specifications and operational parameters). I do not know what your TL alternator should output in volts.

So if the yellow top is a GELL type battery it may be OVER-charged. If an AGM type, it may be UNDER-charged, leading to a low battery, and failure to start your car. That will depend upon whether or not you are taking many short trips (undercharged) or longer trips (proper charging).

 

The alternator is not part of the power train. The power train is typically defined as internally lubricated parts, i.e. the motor and transmission etc.

 

they are AGM, and I run yellow tops with no problem @ 13.8-14.0.

The reality is that they are not as great as they used to be.
Just because its "new" doesnt mean its working properly and it doesnt mean you dont have a drain in the car or a bad alternator.

 

I wanted to look at the Optima batteries for my vehicles, but this quote is from the Optima web site:

QUOTE: The ultimate high-CCA starting battery for vehicles that have alternators capable of keeping up with all electrical loads.

While that quote is given for the RED top battery, my understanding of the difference between the RED and YELLOW tops, from reading the Optima web site, is that the YELLOW top can endure more and deeper discharge cycles.

It would seem to me that the YELLOW top still has to be kept properly charged, and would in fact, require even more output from an alternator when the YELLOW top has been deeply discharged.

Again, many short trips and heavy use of accessories will discharge (and eventually kill) any battery, Optima AGM types as well as any other type of start battery.

 

I completely understand your logic here, but you have to keep in mind that a lot of that jargon is to cover their asses.

I'm speaking in first hand experience, this red top in my RL is going on 3 years old

 

Well I've started my car about 5 times today since last nights incident of not starting on the 1st try. No problems in that category ... Yet. It's the GPS going off and on that happened today while driving with my random VSA light going on then off, but I was turning into a drive way and may have had a wheel in the air since I angle my turning wide to not scrape. So maybe that's why that might went off..

So the GPS acting up is the mystery instead. With the additional of my navi asking for my code this morning after the incident of not starting on the 1st try the night before. GPS just turned off and immediately went back on WHILE driving the car, I don't understand how that could be a battery issue. My battery couldn't have died since I only had to enter my navi code and my mileage was not reseted to 0.

 

Marvelous...thank you for your info!

 

glad to hear its working... keep on driving OP, lets us know how it works out.

 

My vote goes for the alternator. If it was a battery issue he wouldn't be able to start the car. When an alternator is on its last leg it will Barely charge the battery and interior lights and radio will randomly not work, or just not work at all. If the car randomly dies on you or acts really funny at low speeds then immediately put it in high gear and see if it gets better. If it does then it is definitely the alternator.

 

Car loses power on startup you check the starter and battery. If it is losing power while driving check the alternator. See what the dealer says.