paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

Just wondering what could cause a steering wheel vibration at idle. I have already changed all 3 motor mounts and top transmission mount. All oem parts and I did them myself. I did them couple months ago and it was great but recently I notice a little bit of vibration on my steering wheel. It's only during idle, and my cabin is smooth, no noticeable vibration. The steering wheel vibration is not too bad, cannot be seen, only felt with finger tips. Some times I dont even notice it, it's usually more so when the AC is on or during certain weather, but I cant say for sure. I'm sure some ppl would consider this normal and if I took it to a dealership they may consider this "within spec". I'm sure it can be better though so I'm just wondering what kind of things should I be looking for? maybe some parts that should be cleaned?

Also I have changed spark plugs, serpentine belt, and most other maintenance items.

Jspec9

That is pretty hard to pin point. Is your car automatic or stick? and have you changed the tranny mount as well?

Gil'sUA5

How did your car feel after replacing the mounts compared to when you were driving around with bad mounts? Ive heard its night and day i hope i get the same effect when i change my side and front mount next week.

Will Y.

Perhaps you can try cleaning the EGR valve and adjacent manifold.

Also, the TL doesn't have the smoothest idle, FWIW.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

automatic. yes I changed the top tranny mount. the lower tranny mount is near impossible to change and mine doesnt look broken

it'll feel better for sure. smoother idle, less wheelhop, and slightly less noise from engine(but only if you current mounts are destroyed)

yeah I was thinking about cleaning the egr but wasnt sure if it'll make a difference.

and yeah I agree

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

I think its been getting a little worse so I've been looking more into it. I know its not my motor mounts but it seems as if the engine isnt running very smooth. When the engine is idling, and if I place my hand on top of the intake manifold, I can feel the vibrations slightly. I tried lightly pinching the hose near the throttle body going to the purge control solenoid and I can feel the air kinda sputtering through in the same manner as the vibrations. almost like a misfire but MUCH less pronounced.

I've been thinking maybe I need a valve adjustment too as I've been hearing a minor tick near the rear cylinders...

dannyz

A bit late paperboy, but I'd suggest:

a common cause of rough idle is dirty injectors. Start mild by running Chevonr Techron through a tank full of gas, and see if that helps. If not you can have them cleaned professionally, or just run Seafoam through. I avoid using lots of additives, but sometime you have to clean things out.

Another possibility is a dirty EGR valve that can be easily cleaned out or replaced.

If your idle setting has drifted too low (below 800 or so), this can also give you rough idle.

Please let us know if you figure this out. Good luck.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

i cleaned my egr just couple days ago. it was dirty and I cleaned all the gunk out but it didnt change anything.

the idle rpm is perfect at 750rpm.

Even though I said I changed my motor mounts couple months ago, I wonder if they can be broken(not ripped but "worn") since the symptoms fit. Reason I say that is couple weeks ago I remember hitting a dip at wayy too fast because I didnt see it until last second. It was bad enough that I scraped my front subframe, and Im not even that low. I've heard of motor mounts breaking from hitting severe bumps, but we'll see I need to inspect the mounts some more.

I'll try seafoam one of these days.

MandoTL

I still have minor hints of vibration too.

I have just learned to live with it, I have heard from mechanics that honda motors have rough idles as they age.

I'm at 147k miles and I cant get rid of mine, replaced all tranny and motor mounts but still there, valve adjustment done a while ago near 105k service.

My uncle(mechanic) and my mom for some reason want to put seafoam into the gas tank to clean out any gunk inside, they think thats whats creating the small amount of vibration is something is dirty.

I use Shell premium gas and either Mobil 1 EP or Redine Motor oil also, I get so annoyed with the vibration. I test drove an 07 type s and no vibration at all but that car had 60k miles on it.

Any other suggestions.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

im at 137k miles so Im not far behind you. perhaps the age and mileage really come into play here. but I do want to exhaust the other possibilities before coming to that conclusion

Project_CLean

iTrader: (2)

Is it on a cold start? or even once it comes up to operating temp?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

yeah it happens even in operating temp. I'm aware of the intentional misfires during warmup but this is definitely not it.

MandoTL

Its just not enjoyable, my moms 03 GMC has no vibrations at all for her SUV. I wish mine was the same way.

Another suggestion that a buddy of mine ask if any of my suspension components were replaced in the front, if something is worn out/broken and I'm at idle it may contribute to the vibration.

Is that even a possibility?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

no, I dont believe suspension components can be the cause. people have blown shocks and ripped bushings all the time but have a perfectly smooth idle

pohljm

Its not enjoyable? Sounds a little hyper sensitive. This isnt the smoothest idling engine. Idle speed in general isnt the smoothest time anyway. I replaced my plugs at 90k and they looked great but there was a noticeable improvement in the idle smoothness, and i thought it was smooth prior to the change. I would recommend some aggressive cams and some stiffer mounts and just give into it! You could also buy a Lexus! I am constantly starting ours only to find out that its already running! Never done that in the TL

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

OP you say you clean the EGR valve but did you remove the IM and clean that out too?

thoiboi

Have you done a valve adjustment yet G? Wouldn't valves that are a bit off cause a great deal of idle vibration? I might be stabbing in the dark here..

dannyz

Again, rough idle is usually dirty injectors. Cleaning them should help. You can clean the intake manifold at the same time.

MandoTL

Well either its in parked idling or at signal light, the constant faint vibration is just always there and it annoying to me. I am actually very sensitive to vibrations, sounds and tastes its like my senses are heightened. My mom's 10 yr. old Envoy XL is completely silent and she has 125k miles already.

She bought it new and she really didn't take care of her car, I baby mine and just wished the vibrations wasn't there.

I have actually considered moving up to a 07-11 GS350 since that was another top pick on my list. Love the styling a lot.

I guess I'll try getting fuel injectors cleaned and intake manifold. Umm how does one get this done? lol

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

I've used berryman's B12 chemtool instead of using Seafoam. Not sure if it really helped, but I just put 15 oz bottle of the total fuel system clean-up in when the tank is almost empty at the gas station, then just pump in fuel afterwards before starting the car.

I read around about seafoam before and was put onto the berryman's B12 after reading quite a bit.

Also I think the purge control solenoid valve makes a ticking noise, my engine also ticks and I was listening around and it sounded like it was coming from the rear bank but putting my ear close to the PCSV it sounds like its coming from it.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

I only did the egr cleaning since it only requires removing 2 bolts so it only takes a minute to remove. the IM looked slightly dirty but it wasnt like super thick. I didnt think a bit of dirtiness inside the IM would really cause an idle issue since it seemed normal for the age, but you never know I guess.

No I havent, I've been thinking about doing one recently, doesnt look super tough but just havent had the time to go get the feeler gauges

are these injectors prone to getting that dirty in 137k miles?

photog

I have the exact same issue with my '07 5spd TL. Changed all 4 accessible mounts and cleaned by EGR valve as well. I am at 114k and most likely need a valve adjustment since I hear some loud ticking when the window is down. The vibrations get VERY audible when lightly turning the wheel back and forth at a stop, and when the AC is on. Within the past week it has gotten worse and even vibrates with the AC off. I'm running out of ideas, may try and re-torque my new sparkplugs from 40k miles ago. My buddy at the Acura parts counter told me that "people would be amazed if they realize how many Acura's come in here with loose plugs. you wouldn't even believe me if I told you." Also recommended the valve adjustment too. Supposedly the lead tech in the service department is trying to hook me up with a $200 valve adjustment for cash on the side, not at Acura. Not sure if I want to take chances on unsupervised work, and I'd rather do it myself so I can clean the EGR ports in the manifold. Also, I have a bottle of Techron to throw in my gas tank prior to next fill-up. Will let you know if I have any results.

ALSO, as a tip, after digging for solutions for hours on all the hondacura forums I found an Accord owner saying his vibrations minimized when he adjusted his hood latch/cushions. Sure enough my hood was somewhat loose and it made a slight difference when I adjusted it, but there is still a definite underlying motor vibration going on. This seemed to start just prior to doing my timing belt and rebuilding my PS pump (had a leak). I've always had slight vibrations since purchasing this car 1.5 years ago but nothing ever like this.

MandoTL

I'll get my uncle to check out the spark plugs as preventative measure. I got those in around the timing belt service(106k miles). Apparently spark plug 5 likes to pop up, that can contribute to rough idle right?

What hood latch cushions? photo?

photog

Here is a snapshot from my manual

ATLS_666

Injectors can still get dirty using 91+ octane?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

if you want to rule out the hood latch issue, pop your hood up and put your car in drive, and see if it still does it. that should eliminate the hood latch as a possibility.

photog

Update, hood latch minimized the audible vibration, but did not get rid of it completely. So I finally decided to check my plugs today, all were fine except for my middle rear plug, which was about 50% backed out, so loose I was able to turn it by hand when I was going to check the torque. Immediately I knew there was an issue because the coil was stuck in the tube. Once I got the coil out it was soaked in oil/carbon deposits, and the tube is caked in moist carbon. I'll post pics when I get a chance. Glad I checked this, seeing how the plug was ready to shoot out, taking the cylinder head threads with it.
Once I retightened the thread and cleaned off the coil I thought my vibrations/rough idle would be gone but it was in fact worse. Maybe the coil is shot from being soaked in oil and exposed to heat leaking past the spark plug threads.
I'd recommended checking your plugs asap. These plugs were installed 30k miles ago and properly torqued to spec, not sure how it backed itself out. Acura is aware of the spark plug issue on 04-08 TLs, otherwise it wouldn't have been the first thing recommended to me by the Parts guy at my local dealer. Wouldn't have believed him till I experienced it myself..

photog

MandoTL

Nope, it actually vibrates more when the hood is up and in drive.

I'm beginning to wonder if I need to replace or retighten something that holds the motor other than the mounts. idk

its just irritating. Maybe the motor oil is too thick and making the motor idle roughly.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Almost all of the fuel at the pump today contains up to 10% ethanol. Depending on the state that you're in they may not even have to legally disclose that they're adding up to 10% ethanol to the fuel.

Ethanol is dirty, it gums things up and has a lower potential energy than regular fuel, so its less efficient.

Check out this site:

http://pure-gas.org/

It has some info on where to find ethanol-free gas, depending on which state you're in.

Tosh

Look in the manual for how to test 'Engine Mount Control System'...

Idle stumbling is probably dirty injectors and gunk in the cylinders. And you're not going to get them clean with one bottle of anything. I have used FuelPower60 (FP60) from LCDinc in EVERY tank for almost 10 years on my CL-S, and the idle is as smooth as new -- even with original plugs at 114k...

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

lately my idle has been pretty near perfect, not sure if it has to do with the cold weather(cold for socal at least)

350

iTrader: (4)

I noticed my idle got smoother after upgrading the grounds, can't hurt to add them and you can rule out voltage drop to the coils causing it to idle rough.

doggydog

Subscribed.

08WDPTL

Subscribed. I've had similar vibrations in the steering wheel. I thought about trying the big three grounding to see if that helps (motor mounts are fine).

I don't think mileage has anything to do with it. I've got an 08 base with 55k miles and I have similar vibrations to the OP.

csmeance

In all honesty miles doesn't matter that much when you are looking at the causes of vibrations. You have to look at the parts that cause them and look at what is meant to absorb the vibrations.

When is the car vibrating? In Neutral? Drive? Under Load? A/C on?

I'd start with the mounts for the whole car and neutralize them. Sometimes 1 binding mount can cause a host of problems. From there move on to actual components like the A/C compressor, Power Steering pump, etc.

doggydog

My rough idiling is when I initially start the car up. Replaced trans mounts, motor mounts. Need to change plugs as I did it at 80,000. I am now at 165,000 and have a CEL. Will report after plug change.