warped rotors/solution
03-26-2006, 08:21 PM
#1
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warped rotors/solution
I looked in old posts and I did find that I my TL is not only one with warped rotors. I have turned my rotors three times and I cannot do it again without going under specs. I am getting ready to spend money on new rotors and I don't think I want to go with oe rotors. My question is: Has anyone had a good experence with any slotted aftermarket rotors? I don't want to waste my money imitation crap made to look good. I don't really care about how they look as long as they are garanteed NOT to warp. Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Brian.
thanks,
Brian.
03-26-2006, 10:30 PM
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with drilled and slotted rotor's you then have to worry about cracking more than warping............I think Fsstym1 has gotten some good miles off his Irotor's,if i'm not mistaken PM him
03-27-2006, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by subinf
Do you have the brembos?
03-27-2006, 07:35 AM
#5
Here is what I do, and I have NEVER had warped rotors AFTER I did this:
Buy quality rotors and pads, for the AT cars, look at getcoolparts.com, or some of the other places that sell parts cheap, look for the pbr/axxis deluxe brake pads,
they are real good, low dust, good life, good stopping, quiet.
Brembo or ATE make good replacement rotors.
Remove the wheel, the rotor, the old pads.
Clean the hub where the disk bolts up to it, wire brush in a drill, emery cloth, scotch brite, whatever, get it clean and rust free.
Coat the hub where the disk bolts up with high temp disk brake grease, just a thin coating. Clean the new disk with brake parts cleaner and place on the hub.
Clean the wheels, inside and out, and especialy the part that bolts up to the disk, and coat it with the high temp grease.
Open the bleed nipples when pushing the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, I dont push the dirty oild fluid back into the abs system as that can ruin some systems, and its not a good idea anyway.
Install the new pads after coating the back of the pads with the high temp grease. I put some grease on the piston in the caliper, they tend to rust up.
Put some high temp grease on the contact points, where the pads thrust against the caliper, and lube the caliper guide pins.
Bleed a cup of new brake fluid through each wheel, brake fluid attracts and holds moisture.
Put the wheel on and do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one pattern till all are tight, to 85 foot pounds, using a torque wrench.
Then go bed the new pads in, you want to do some hard braking, but not stop,
you want to wear the pads in but not over heat things, which means you have to keep the air flow over the disks (keep moving).
The grease prevents rust, increases heat transfer, and on the back of the pads stops noise better then the sticky stuff. Brembo uses the grease on the back of their pads per the acura tsb...
I have done this on problem cars that warped their disks over and over, and did not have problems after.
Rotors for the AT cars run about $30.00 each, I would never cut them, or resurface them, as the price of new rotors is only slightly more then having them cut. Cutting just takes metal off, less metal, more heat, more problems.
Places like getcoolparts.com have no sales tax, free shipping, and usually sell good parts.
Take your car to a shop and they just throw new parts on and then do up the lug nuts to 200 foot pounds with an air impact wrench. For that you pay $800.00 or more..
No thanks.
Brett
Buy quality rotors and pads, for the AT cars, look at getcoolparts.com, or some of the other places that sell parts cheap, look for the pbr/axxis deluxe brake pads,
they are real good, low dust, good life, good stopping, quiet.
Brembo or ATE make good replacement rotors.
Remove the wheel, the rotor, the old pads.
Clean the hub where the disk bolts up to it, wire brush in a drill, emery cloth, scotch brite, whatever, get it clean and rust free.
Coat the hub where the disk bolts up with high temp disk brake grease, just a thin coating. Clean the new disk with brake parts cleaner and place on the hub.
Clean the wheels, inside and out, and especialy the part that bolts up to the disk, and coat it with the high temp grease.
Open the bleed nipples when pushing the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, I dont push the dirty oild fluid back into the abs system as that can ruin some systems, and its not a good idea anyway.
Install the new pads after coating the back of the pads with the high temp grease. I put some grease on the piston in the caliper, they tend to rust up.
Put some high temp grease on the contact points, where the pads thrust against the caliper, and lube the caliper guide pins.
Bleed a cup of new brake fluid through each wheel, brake fluid attracts and holds moisture.
Put the wheel on and do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one pattern till all are tight, to 85 foot pounds, using a torque wrench.
Then go bed the new pads in, you want to do some hard braking, but not stop,
you want to wear the pads in but not over heat things, which means you have to keep the air flow over the disks (keep moving).
The grease prevents rust, increases heat transfer, and on the back of the pads stops noise better then the sticky stuff. Brembo uses the grease on the back of their pads per the acura tsb...
I have done this on problem cars that warped their disks over and over, and did not have problems after.
Rotors for the AT cars run about $30.00 each, I would never cut them, or resurface them, as the price of new rotors is only slightly more then having them cut. Cutting just takes metal off, less metal, more heat, more problems.
Places like getcoolparts.com have no sales tax, free shipping, and usually sell good parts.
Take your car to a shop and they just throw new parts on and then do up the lug nuts to 200 foot pounds with an air impact wrench. For that you pay $800.00 or more..
No thanks.
Brett
03-27-2006, 10:57 AM
#6
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Have your new rotors frozen and they will not warp. www.frozenrotors.com is an excellent source to have this done. Your rotor life will also double to triple its normal life. I have this done with all my cars.
03-27-2006, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Brettg
Here is what I do, and I have NEVER had warped rotors AFTER I did this:
Buy quality rotors and pads, for the AT cars, look at getcoolparts.com, or some of the other places that sell parts cheap, look for the pbr/axxis deluxe brake pads,
they are real good, low dust, good life, good stopping, quiet.
Brembo or ATE make good replacement rotors.
Remove the wheel, the rotor, the old pads.
Clean the hub where the disk bolts up to it, wire brush in a drill, emery cloth, scotch brite, whatever, get it clean and rust free.
Coat the hub where the disk bolts up with high temp disk brake grease, just a thin coating. Clean the new disk with brake parts cleaner and place on the hub.
Clean the wheels, inside and out, and especialy the part that bolts up to the disk, and coat it with the high temp grease.
Open the bleed nipples when pushing the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, I dont push the dirty oild fluid back into the abs system as that can ruin some systems, and its not a good idea anyway.
Install the new pads after coating the back of the pads with the high temp grease. I put some grease on the piston in the caliper, they tend to rust up.
Put some high temp grease on the contact points, where the pads thrust against the caliper, and lube the caliper guide pins.
Bleed a cup of new brake fluid through each wheel, brake fluid attracts and holds moisture.
Put the wheel on and do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one pattern till all are tight, to 85 foot pounds, using a torque wrench.
Then go bed the new pads in, you want to do some hard braking, but not stop,
you want to wear the pads in but not over heat things, which means you have to keep the air flow over the disks (keep moving).
The grease prevents rust, increases heat transfer, and on the back of the pads stops noise better then the sticky stuff. Brembo uses the grease on the back of their pads per the acura tsb...
I have done this on problem cars that warped their disks over and over, and did not have problems after.
Rotors for the AT cars run about $30.00 each, I would never cut them, or resurface them, as the price of new rotors is only slightly more then having them cut. Cutting just takes metal off, less metal, more heat, more problems.
Places like getcoolparts.com have no sales tax, free shipping, and usually sell good parts.
Take your car to a shop and they just throw new parts on and then do up the lug nuts to 200 foot pounds with an air impact wrench. For that you pay $800.00 or more..
No thanks.
Brett
Buy quality rotors and pads, for the AT cars, look at getcoolparts.com, or some of the other places that sell parts cheap, look for the pbr/axxis deluxe brake pads,
they are real good, low dust, good life, good stopping, quiet.
Brembo or ATE make good replacement rotors.
Remove the wheel, the rotor, the old pads.
Clean the hub where the disk bolts up to it, wire brush in a drill, emery cloth, scotch brite, whatever, get it clean and rust free.
Coat the hub where the disk bolts up with high temp disk brake grease, just a thin coating. Clean the new disk with brake parts cleaner and place on the hub.
Clean the wheels, inside and out, and especialy the part that bolts up to the disk, and coat it with the high temp grease.
Open the bleed nipples when pushing the pistons back in to make room for the new pads, I dont push the dirty oild fluid back into the abs system as that can ruin some systems, and its not a good idea anyway.
Install the new pads after coating the back of the pads with the high temp grease. I put some grease on the piston in the caliper, they tend to rust up.
Put some high temp grease on the contact points, where the pads thrust against the caliper, and lube the caliper guide pins.
Bleed a cup of new brake fluid through each wheel, brake fluid attracts and holds moisture.
Put the wheel on and do up the lug nuts in a do one skip one pattern till all are tight, to 85 foot pounds, using a torque wrench.
Then go bed the new pads in, you want to do some hard braking, but not stop,
you want to wear the pads in but not over heat things, which means you have to keep the air flow over the disks (keep moving).
The grease prevents rust, increases heat transfer, and on the back of the pads stops noise better then the sticky stuff. Brembo uses the grease on the back of their pads per the acura tsb...
I have done this on problem cars that warped their disks over and over, and did not have problems after.
Rotors for the AT cars run about $30.00 each, I would never cut them, or resurface them, as the price of new rotors is only slightly more then having them cut. Cutting just takes metal off, less metal, more heat, more problems.
Places like getcoolparts.com have no sales tax, free shipping, and usually sell good parts.
Take your car to a shop and they just throw new parts on and then do up the lug nuts to 200 foot pounds with an air impact wrench. For that you pay $800.00 or more..
No thanks.
Brett
I couldn't have stated it better, you definitly know what your talking about. I am an ASE certified technician myself and I am shop foreman and part owner of a 4 bay NAPA auto care center/American car care center. I was planning on changing the pads to full ceramix when I replaced the rotors. I am leaning toward brembo rotors that are like the OE. I was curious if anyone had any success with slotted rotors.
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03-27-2006, 03:01 PM
#8
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Just had my rear rotors cut this past Friday and I only have a little over 16k! I had the same question. Did you just have front rotor wear or rear as well?
03-27-2006, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 05TLTony
Just had my rear rotors cut this past Friday and I only have a little over 16k! I had the same question. Did you just have front rotor wear or rear as well?
Last month I had an 06 for a loaner and the rear rotors were extremely warped. That car only had 1500 miles on it.
03-27-2006, 03:50 PM
#10
I have 10,000 miles on out car now, without doing anything, and no warps, but i am going to tend to the brakes when it warms up outside, to prevent problems...
Brake parts for the AT cars are dirt cheap, the brembos are about $140.00 a disk
I guess.
The AT disks seem to be about $35.00 each?
Brett
Brake parts for the AT cars are dirt cheap, the brembos are about $140.00 a disk
I guess.
The AT disks seem to be about $35.00 each?
Brett
03-27-2006, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettg
I have 10,000 miles on out car now, without doing anything, and no warps, but i am going to tend to the brakes when it warms up outside, to prevent problems...
Brake parts for the AT cars are dirt cheap, the brembos are about $140.00 a disk
I guess.
The AT disks seem to be about $35.00 each?
Brett
Brake parts for the AT cars are dirt cheap, the brembos are about $140.00 a disk
I guess.
The AT disks seem to be about $35.00 each?
Brett
03-28-2006, 02:44 AM
#12
Team Owner
I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem. I talked to the dealer when I took it in for an oil change. After explaining this is not a wear issue, and I've never done any hard braking, he agreed to fix the problem "just this once". From the posts here, it looks like it's just going to happen again. I wonder what the odds are of the dealer replacing the stock rotors with Brembos assuming I buy the Brembos and they cover labor.
03-28-2006, 08:03 AM
#13
I have never found the brand of rotor to be a problem.
Brembo and ATE make good replacement rotors, that I know as I have used them
on various cars.
Replacement rotors from brembo are dirt cheap, except for brembo brake systems like what is on the 6MT cars. Those are expensive for some reason.
I used replacement brembos on the rear of the Passat, and ATE's on the front.
They were $23.00 for the rears, and $36.00 for the fronts.
Zimmermin? also makes good replacement rotors.
My guess is if you have warped disks, its not a disk problem but an assembly/bedding in problem, as almost every type of car on the road can have warped disks, from VW's, to Jaguars, to Fords.
Lots of people on the Jaguar list had problems, same on the Passat forum, my wife's taurus had warped disks VERY early, etc.
In the case of the taurus, 1st time back to the dealers had new disks installed, 5000 miles and they were warped, 2nd time they cut them, 3rd time I got new disks from the local auto parts place (cheapest things we could get) and they never warped in 30,000 miles.
Brett
Brembo and ATE make good replacement rotors, that I know as I have used them
on various cars.
Replacement rotors from brembo are dirt cheap, except for brembo brake systems like what is on the 6MT cars. Those are expensive for some reason.
I used replacement brembos on the rear of the Passat, and ATE's on the front.
They were $23.00 for the rears, and $36.00 for the fronts.
Zimmermin? also makes good replacement rotors.
My guess is if you have warped disks, its not a disk problem but an assembly/bedding in problem, as almost every type of car on the road can have warped disks, from VW's, to Jaguars, to Fords.
Lots of people on the Jaguar list had problems, same on the Passat forum, my wife's taurus had warped disks VERY early, etc.
In the case of the taurus, 1st time back to the dealers had new disks installed, 5000 miles and they were warped, 2nd time they cut them, 3rd time I got new disks from the local auto parts place (cheapest things we could get) and they never warped in 30,000 miles.
Brett
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