cellph titled

First things first the car runs fine, switches into gears perfectly, full on oil and ATF. Heres the problem, when I accelerate heavily the rpm doesnt go past 4500 rpm, struggles to go any higher.
Could this be a problem with the vtec or could this be a transmission problem?

240sx acura tech

yes or the app sensor

cellph titled

So the problem has worsened and in any gear if I try to accelerate past 2500 rpm it struggles to shift gears and go any higher. My check engine light has come on along with the VSA light and the ! light. I went to autozone to get it scanned, and it came out to a transmission problem saying its the barometric pressure sensor. The guy at autozone said my best bet would be go to Acura and get it thoroughly checked out. Anybody ever have problems with this or similar to it? What do you think an estimation of costs would be to fix this?

Whats the app sensor?

Inaccurate

Although the MAP has nothing to do with the transmission, if the error code says bad "barometric pressure sensor" (aka, MAP), then I would fix that first. Go to the dealer and purchase the item below. Super easy to install.

Majofo

hmm.. this would one of the rare MAP sensor failures I've heard of.. whether it's the MAP or APP sensor it's an easy DIY job.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Are you by chance using a K&N filter?

cellph titled

Nope I'm using stock filter.
I went to the dealership today, picked up the maf sensor, and 3rd and 4th gear switches. Those are the 3 things that im going to change and hopefully it works properly again.

Majofo

1. I hope you meant MAP Sensor.
2. 3rd & 4th gear pressure switches aren't your problem.
3. Before you replace the old MAP sensor, deep creep the TB & the MAP sensor channel. Also make sure the connection to the APP & MAP sensors are secure.
4. If the new MAP sensor doesn't work, check for DTC's.. hopefully it's the APP sensor.

cellph titled

1.)Yes I did mean the MAP sensor and I got that changed. Still no help
2.)I figured that after I changed them, but its good to have some new ones.
3.)I haven't done that, but I'll get to that right now.
4.)I got two different codes coming from my CEL
P2227 and p1128

I hate cars

Sounds like the exhaust is plugged.

When you try and accelerate, does it run normal up to the point it stops accelerating?

What rpm does it stop at if you floor it in park or neutral?

Does the transmission shift abnormally high?

Does it run fine until you're heavily into the throttle?

If you want to try something yourself, unbolt the 3rd cat and see if there are any chunks of precats in it or if the 3rd cat is broken up internally. Visually inspect exhaust components to make sure nothing is dented.

Honestly, I thought the MAP sensor would do the trick, kind of surprising that it didn't do the trick.

Edit: I thought you already tried the APP sensor. Might give that a shot.

cellph titled

Yes, but it runs to about 2500-3000k until it starts to mess up.
When parked or in neutral it will only rev up to about 3000-4000k rpm.
Yes, the transmission wont shift until past 3k rpm sometimes higher. I just got into sport shift mode and shift it myself to not strain the engine.
I have to run the rpm below 2500k rpm to drive normal and avoid the VSA and ! to show up.

My car is lowered so I'm going to try to see visible damage underneath with a mirror and a stick of some sort.
Do you mind showing me like a diagram and showing where the 3rd cat is in the exhaust system.

If it helps, when idling the exhaust seems to be making a "thumping" type sound. Seems abnormal.

Yes I did change the APP sensor, It helped my acceleration, seems to be alot smoother, but the problem is still there.

If it is the exhaust, should I remove the 3rd cat?

Majofo

At night, drive around and get the rpms up for at least 30 mins.. then check under the driverside to see if the 3rd cat is glowing, if not check the primaries. If it is the 3rd cat, remove it.. core it out & put it back or pay for a straight pipe.

Project X

why would a k&n air filter charger have anything to do with it incase he did have one..

**WhItE-aNgEl**

code p1128 means your map is lower than expected..if thats any help

240sx acura tech

p1128 is map and 2227 is baro sensor. i would not worry about the transmission sensors

cellph titled

Saturday Im going to a local shop(japtrix) to get my 3rd cat checked out. Theyre charging kinda high for the job 135$ but theyre the only shop that I know of that don't get sketched out when the topic catalytic converter removal comes up

Bender

Check your warp coils

Majofo

Removing the cats is easy unless you have to deal with a seized primary bolt. Sounds like your wasting your money.

crzygosu87

iTrader: (4)

^+1

third cat is easily accessible with basic tools

let us know if you find the problem!

cellph titled

If I take off the third cat myself. Do I need to take it to a shop so they weld a straight pipe on, or is there a bolt on piece I can replace it with?

Majofo

Why are you throwing parts at a problem that you haven't confirmed, it's asinine. Confirm the issue before doing anything. The cats are easy to check for failure.. either you throw a code or they're glowing hot after some spirited night time driving, you might even get a sulfur smell. Check your compression to check for other issues as well.

240sx acura tech

i had this problem on on 09 rdx. i removed the third cat. ran like a rape date.but does not explain the codes because . unless your back firing into the intake.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Richie RV-6 sells a straight pipe with flanges on the side for a perfect fit/easy install (65 shipped). Do like the other say, try one thing at a time.

Also, shops should not get sketched if you ask them the right way. Do not ask for a removal, simply ask them to check it out for failures.