DeathLens

So I cleared the P2138 code and drove around for a little. Usually the light goes back on before I even get to the end of my street. No lights came on. But when I scanned it, the code is back again and no CEL.

Will Y.

The APP sensor isn't going to fix itself-- replace it.

It went bad, and will probably continue to be a problem intermittently and unpredictably.

FWIW, some 3G TL members here had the APP sensor go bad without a CEL activating.

DeathLens

Alright thanks. I'll just replace it.

DeathLens

Swapped it out and got rid of the code.

beallski

I have a 05 TL that is in Limp Mode, VSA light on, with code P2176. I replaced the Accelerator pedal position sensor. The code will not clear, and it says "idle position not learned" Car starts and idles fine. Hate to replace Throttle body if not necessary. Any ideas???

Davidn818

Thanks to all the people contributed to this thread in this forum.
This is my share on this subject and it also answered few questions in this thread,
I have the same issue with my 2005 Acura MDX (154K miles).
It has happen about 2-3 months ago. There was a sudden medium vibration in front at speeds over 40mph and when the road is not very smooth. The local mechanic told me the front struts need to be replace. I did not have time to fix it yet.
Wasn't enough to cause immediate concern until.

My VSA (Vehicle Stability Assist) And Activation Indicator ( AI- Triangle shape) and Engine lights all 3 came on while I was driving on freeway and I had to pull over.
I turned my vehicle off and turned it back on. Both VSA and AI lights were off. The Engine light still on.
I drove for 5-7 miles and it happen again.

I brought the car to the small local mechanic shop. He plugged in the diagnostic computer and it showed "Throttle error code P2138".
The Acura dealer told me that there is only 1 module: TPS or APP are the same module.

Acura southcoast in Costa Mesa, CA sold me the Honda part number 37971-RCA-A01 for $120+ tax. My local garage shop installed for $30 in 10 minutes and reset the P2138 code on my car. A total of $160 (sep/16). It is a very easy job. The TPS is on the front passenger side under the hood. Any one can change oil, can replace this part by open about 7 screws.
RESULTS:
- All VSA, AI, Engine lights are off.
- The Vibration in front of car at >40 mph is no longer exist.
- My front strut still give a little bumpy (1/3 comparing to before replacing TPS). I will replace the front struts.
-

Jahreta

My car did the same thing. Indicator lights flashing. Low RPM. I believe something called "automatic braking" was happening. Once I cut the car off and back on, I could accelerate , then it began to stall again (After getting off highway). All together it was about 30 min car ride until I made it home. Woke up this morning, it road fine around one block. ??? Any idea what this could be????

Hmooblauj

Is it throwing you a check engine light?

BoroZco

qQSs

did they just replace the sensor, or the whole throttle body? How much did they charge you??

Aviography

Throttle position sensor is NOT the same as the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

To clarify, V6 Accords engines are "drive-by-wire", the gas pedal does not link directly to the throttle butterfly like the old cars do, instead the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor senses and transmits the gas pedal position to the fuel control computer, which then sends a signal to the servo motor that drives the throttle butterfly, therefore there is the APP for gas pedal position, and a throttle position sensor which tells the fuel control computer how far the servo motor has moved the throttle butterfly, it's a feedback control loop used in the fuel control computer algorithm to ensure every input and output are controlled and monitored for errors.

The APP is one integrated unit with position sensor circuitry inside, actually there are two sensors inside to allow the fuel control computer to cross-check both signals against each other, this is a redundancy setup to ensure there isn't a "run-away" reading where fuel control computer thinks the pedal is pressed all the way down and drives the throttle to wide-open when it is a false reading by a failing sensor, reading both signals and compare them to each other ensures the "run-away" condition does not occur.

Slayer-33

iTrader: (1)

So last night at around 1AM my VSA / CEL and D (blinking) light came on. I was able to give it power but it moved at under 15MPH, was on the Henry Hudson, eventually I stopped right after the 79th St off ramp, police came within 5 minutes to sit behind me thankfully, got towed away and car is sitting at a midtown shop, waiting til tomorrow morning to see what the mechanics there tell me. I should have taken a pic off the NAVI screen, think the problem/code popped on it. Really hoping it's a sensor/solenoid problem. When the loss of power happened we didn't hear any abnormal sounds and the car didn't shake or anything. Hoping for the best...

07 TLS over here, @ 84.5k Miles. Oh yeah, manual didn't work, low gear didn't work it was on false neutral it seems. As we sat and kept the key turned on II mode eventually car wasn't getting enough power to turn the engine on I guess because of the battery, situation was a bit scary because we were on the left lane on the west side highway heading 9A-S..

I think I drained my battery when my GF and I waited for the tow, was trying to read the NAVI screen.. I never had replaced the ATF since I purchased the car a few years back..Hopefully that's also a solution to this situation..

Another thing, before all of this happened, on 177th and Ft.Wash as we were hopping on the highway we smelled what seems to have been some oil, I'm not entirely sure it came from the car but it was a noticeable smell. Possibly a major leak somewhere under the car?

Aviography

But the question is

Slayer-33

iTrader: (1)

Trying to avoid the T word ..

Crossing my fingers bruh I'll update the thread tomorrow, if anyone comes across those conditions they'll get an idea of what might happened to them when it happens. :9

Slayer-33

iTrader: (1)

Welp seems I was right with the last sentence, trans fluid leaked out from the bottom of the radiator connection, also all the coolant escaped.

New radiator, 7 QT's of DW-1 ATF, new fluid for radiator diag/labor $700 out the door today. Car is shifting buttery smooth, much much better than before this situation.

Manuel Roque de Escobar

Good afternoon. Everyone, I had the engine check light and the vsa light come on, the vehicle went in to limp mode, I have notice the interior lights flicking, altenator is going bad, can this cause the apps sensor to malfunction, do to low voltage, or is this problem won't be affected by altenator ? 2008 acura tl

thoiboi

Yes bad alternator, bad battery, or bad battery terminals can cause issues. Replace faulty components.

Manuel Roque de Escobar

Hello, I am the owner of a 2008 acura tl base model, few days ago my vehicle went in to limp mode, I took the alternator out and clean the area, it passed a bench test at autozone, I since then clear out the p2138 code and the check engine light, how ever it seams as the vehicle is hesitating again, could a bad dios on the alternator be falling intermittent and there fore not sending correct voltage to apps sensor ?

thoiboi

Yes

cbaccam23

Hello,

I have a 2006 TL and recently had this happen to me...was traveling home from a weekend trip. Driving fine for about an hour and a half. Stopped to get some gas. When I started the car up and started driving for a minute got the dreaded VSA/Triangle/CEL on and the car would go into "limp mode." At a complete stop the car would accelerate really slow and gradually get up to speed. I was lucky I was able to get home.

So after doing some research in here people have suggested that it is the APP sensor. So I bought and installed the APP sensor and still have the following codes pop up:
P0957
P1174
P2195
P2197

Could it be due to the APP sensor not being fully snapped on? When I replaced mine, I tried as hard as I could to get the sensor to lock in but it would not.

Please help!!!!

John Garza

Response to , "transmission?". My odyssey was hesitating. I thought it might be transmission. Turns out it was low on oil. The guy that says, "limp home mode" ,was right . Thanks. Hope this helps.

Braxton Moore

Sounds like your ABS unit has something going on tbh

mswags

i used to have this issue as well. from what I found it tends to be the tps or app. i changed the app and no more issues

rickcard71

How do you tighten it please?

Alisha Keesee

I need your help my car is doing the same thing. What was the problem?

BobcatGuy

DGTC, Did You ever figure that issue out? I have been having the same problem in an 09 civic hybrid, except, after I restart it, the check engine light comes on, then goes away after a day or so, Code reader says p0606, ecu malfunction. I have read others say they've replaced their ecu (ecm), and the problem was still there. I see a few people in this thread claim its the TPS, and I don't want to buy one, if it isn't the issue.
Could You please let Me know if You got it under control, and if so how, Thanks

BobcatGuy

Thanks for clarifying that for me, was trying to make sense of the two different names, now I can explain to the part guy which one I need!

BobcatGuy

Which sensor, the APP sensor with the gas pedal, or the throttle position sensor on the throttle body?
A huge price difference in the parts up here.

BobcatGuy

Hi dan.....k, curious if You found Your invoice and determined if this problem was the throttle position sensor or not, was it possibly the Accelerator position sensor?
I can't seem to find Your follow up on here.
Thanks

BobcatGuy

I had this issue on My Honda, 1.3 litre, same VSA and warning light on when initially going into limp mode, then I shut it down, wait 5 seconds, restart, runs fine, with engine light on, throwing P0606 code, (ECU malfunction) read this thread thoroughly , have had some say defiantly TPS throttle position sensor, some members said APS Accelerator position sensor, looked elsewhere and have found many different reasons for this problem, including grounds, reprogram (Flash2) the ECU, to update software...nobody on any forum ever got back to me and said the final result, even when i asked them. The engine light would go off on it's own and car ran fine for a while,sometimes days, then back to limp mode, VSA light on....all over again, grrrr!
Soon I couldn't go more than a half a mile without the same issue repeating.
I disconnected my negative from the battery, changed all 8 of my spark plugs, noticing the last time the plugs were changed, butthead only did the four on the outside (fan side, engine right or car front) side of the engine, replaced them with NGK, (He charged for 8) the ones by the firewall side were Denso iridium,( probably the stock plugs), none the less, the gap was way off and the electrodes all had various different over where problems,(never seized the plugs and dielectric greased the coil wire on install) with bosh pre gaped Iridium plugs, reconnected the battery, fired it up, idled fine till warm. I relearned the TPS, (easy 10 minute fix you can find on YouTube) and all systems are Go! haven't driven it much, (under 100km, Canadian Eh) but so far No problems and My fuel is burning 1.9litres/100km less then My best readings ever, and those were readings when I went from stand still to 60, full bore and hit the highway at 60, put the pedal all the way to the floor till I hit 90, and held there till i exited, then back to the city driving aggressively, to get a worst case read out, or circumstance.
No, confident as I may be right now, I haven't driven it much, this was a today thing, I thought I should share for the other people wondering wtf still... I will update in a week or so, good or bad, and let Ya know.
If You haven't changed the plugs ever B4, and want some knuckle breaking & F bomb saving tips on the rear 4 replacement, let Me know and I will hook Ya up.
total time was under an hour and a half, and that included figuring how to get those back f@#ken plugs in and out.

PS, Honda wanted to replace the ECU, I have seen this, hasn't worked b4, I could have replaced the TPS and the APS, same issues woulda' been there, Do it right, do it Yourself, then drive it like Ya stole it!
(knock on wood)
B

BobcatGuy

I know you posted awhile back, and remembered it because i was in the same boat, same time
solved on My endI had this issue on My Honda, 1.3 litre, same VSA and warning light on when initially going into limp mode, then I shut it down, wait 5 seconds, restart, runs fine, with engine light on, throwing P0606 code, (ECU malfunction) read this thread thoroughly , have had some say defiantly TPS throttle position sensor, some members said APS Accelerator position sensor, looked elsewhere and have found many different reasons for this problem, including grounds, reprogram (Flash2) the ECU, to update software...nobody on any forum ever got back to me and said the final result, even when i asked them. The engine light would go off on it's own and car ran fine for a while,sometimes days, then back to limp mode, VSA light on....all over again, grrrr!
Soon I couldn't go more than a half a mile without the same issue repeating.
I disconnected my negative from the battery, changed all 8 of my spark plugs, noticing the last time the plugs were changed, butthead only did the four on the outside (fan side, engine right or car front) side of the engine, replaced them with NGK, (He charged for 8) the ones by the firewall side were Denso iridium,( probably the stock plugs), none the less, the gap was way off and the electrodes all had various different over where problems,(never seized the plugs and dielectric greased the coil wire on install) with bosh pre gaped Iridium plugs, reconnected the battery, fired it up, idled fine till warm. I relearned the TPS, (easy 10 minute fix you can find on YouTube) and all systems are Go! haven't driven it much, (under 100km, Canadian Eh) but so far No problems and My fuel is burning 1.9litres/100km less then My best readings ever, and those were readings when I went from stand still to 60, full bore and hit the highway at 60, put the pedal all the way to the floor till I hit 90, and held there till i exited, then back to the city driving aggressively, to get a worst case read out, or circumstance.
No, (confident as I may be right now), I haven't driven it much, this was a today thing, I thought I should share for the other people wondering wtf still... I will update in a week or so, good or bad, and let Ya know.
If You haven't changed the plugs ever B4, and want some knuckle breaking & F bomb saving tips on the rear 4 replacement, let Me know and I will hook Ya up.
total time was under an hour and a half, and that included figuring how to get those back f@#ken plugs in and out.

PS, Honda wanted to replace the ECU, I have seen this, hasn't worked b4, I could have replaced the TPS and the APS, same issues woulda' been there, Do it right, do it Yourself, then drive it like Ya stole it!
(knock on wood)

Bobby Stafford

Okay guys I have an 05 Acura TL it’s in limp mode the odometer and trip isn’t working nor my speedometer ive replaced app sensor speed sensor and map sensor my visa and check engine lights on plus my triangle light is on the check engine light is saying map sensor bad and speed sensor is bad so I’ve changed both plus app sensor and it’s still in limp mode what do I do