Hey guys, I have a really weird problem with my '04 TL 6MT - about 6-8 weeks ago, it started to vibrate badly between 60 and 70 mph - but, here's the weird part - only under acceleration!! I can accelerate up a freeway on ramp, and she's smooth as can be all the way up to 60mph, and then she shakes like a wet dog from 60 to 70mph. At a steady state speed, no vibration. My mechanic pulled the axles and we had the cv joints rebuilt - problem still there. The wheels have been balanced, rotated, and the tires have even been replaced - so that can be ruled out. Alignment has been checked and rechecked - and if it was a balance issue, it would do it whether or not under load, I would think. Our next step is to purchase new drive axle units and see if that works - any thoughts???

 

clutch plate could be warped....

 

How closely related is it to throttle position?
Does it change if you turn?
Anything else happen 6-8 weeks ago when this turned up?
How many miles on the car, and how old are the tires?
Try to isolate it between an engine roughness/misfire thing and a wheel/driveline thing.
Clutch disc, flywheel, or pressure plate would vibrate based on engine rpm, not road speed.

 

Tires..............

 

drive shaft?

 

It's not RPM related - any gear between 60 and 70mph causes the shudder - but it's only under acceleration - it does not due it at steady state speed in the same range. The car has 78K on the odometer - the tires can be ruled out - we've already replaced them once due to the problem - the dealer took off a near brand new set of Yokohama ES100s and replaced them with BFG KD/Ws - same problem. It is worse at higher engine RPM, but I suspect that's because of increased torque on the drivetrain. My mechanic sent the axles out to a local repair shop, and they did find a problem with the races being chewed up on one of the inboard joints - all of the balls and cages were replaced, and the races resurfaced, new boots, repacked. We've order new drive axles hoping that will solve it - I'm wondering if maybe a bad pothole impact could do it - my mechanic thinks maybe a warped axle shaft. We're really baffled.

 

I'll bet the new axles do the trick.

 

That's what my mechanic thinks - I've known the guy for about 10 years as an acquaintance, not just as my mechanic - when he called me to tell me the rebuild didn't solve it, he just said "If it were my car, I'd try replacing the axles - I'm out of other ideas" so we ordered them from Acura, and they'll be in next week. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Why did you rebuild the axles in the first place? It cost the same to simply replace them you know (unless your mechanic does free rebuilds). If you rebuilt them because the boots were torn, then the joint inside were probably shot...

What exactly was replaced during the re-build?

 

We have a local axle service shop that, from what I hear locally, does a first rate job. They disassemble the joint, clean it, recut the races, and install matching oversized balls and cages with new boots and grease and replace any other broken internal pieces. They charge about $75 per halfshaft, or $150 for both sides and that includes all for CV joints- the new axles, complete are about $400 for both on the manual - apparently, the ones for the auto trans car are about twice that amount. I spoke with 3 different Acura service techs, and they all thought the problem was an inner CV joint, so that's what I attacked first. Process of elimination for an odd problem.

 

i work at honda and the inner cv joints are the problem.put new axles on a 05 accord 6 speed on wed. with the same problem. all good now.

 

Thanks for the feedback - replacing both drive axles is scheduled for today - I really hope that does the trick. I've had my TL since June '04, and this is the first problem I've had other than a defective O2 sensor, which was replaced under warranty. My car now has about 79,000 miles on the odometer, and aside from this problem, is as solid as the day I drove it home from the dealer. My only other expenses have been routine maintenance, brakes, and tires. And I average around 23mpg in combined driving, close to 30 on long road trips - just a fantastic car.

 

3rd gen - right on the money - I just got my car back - smooth as glass with the new axles - my mechanic is taking the rebuilt axles back to the guy who rebuilt them for a refund of the charges - he basically said the joints didn't feel right to him in any case. Problem solved, my baby is back to 100%.

 

I am having this same issue and am glad I read this. I was aiming towards just having my current axles rebuilt ($120) but now i'm not so sure about that. The after-market ones are $120-200 and oem 400+ w/o installation.

What do you guys recommend?

 

NAPA auto parts for brand new parts of complete axle with cv bearings and new boots
call for price but were 100 or less a few years ago

have your guy install or an alignment shop can do it. not dealer for this simple job

 

I forgot to mention that its a 6sp TL that I was referring to. Napa only carries the re-manufactured right front axle for my car. Would that still be a better option over having mine rebuilt? Price would be the same either way (~$60).

I have a mechanic who I could get to do this pretty cheap so that part is covered.

Mc

 

if you feel it between 60-70 and it goes away you need tired balanced

 

*tires

 

David,

Where did you buy your axles from and how are they holding up?

 

I have the same problem on my 04 Acura TL as well... It's the automatic though. But at 50 mpr upon hard ecceleration it shimmies side to side until 60 mpr. I really need to find out so I can get the supercharger... and I want my car to run right. Please help. I'm not one to take my car to the dealer every time something goes wrong. I like the ask people who work on and own the car I have.

 

If its speed specific and not acceleration specific, then it could be tires (bent rim, out of balance) or an issue that can be fixed with Dynamic Dampener (check TSB).

My issue occurs when accelerating and subsides when car in is neutral (6sp). Thats why im almost 100% sure its a case a bad inner joints on my axles.

 

I had the wheels road force tested at a dealer and balanced half a dozen times. The tires are newer and are wareing evenly. It's only on hard ecceleration...not nuetral, not on decceleration, not if you are coasting to higher speeds. I've had the passanger side axel replaced 3 times in a year, so it could be it...Where do you recommend getting a good axel to try that route?

 

Did you ever replace your driver side axle? The cardone brand axles sold by Napa are said to be good non-oem axles if the axles sold by acura are out of your price range. If you buy oem, oemacuraparts + .com has the best price i've seen so far.

PS. Why did you replace your passenger axle 3x?

 

First I bought a Napa axle and down the street it walked itself right out of the tranny, then I tried a different honda rebuilt and it broke a few months later too, now there's a Honda oem one in there and it's been about a year. I just can't find an axle that's of good quality. I don't mind spending the money if it will last, but this is getting silly.

 

Wow. Did replacing the axles smooth out the ride any? And I would still recommend swapping the driver side axle.

As you probably already know, the only one that will be guaranteed to fit is OEM. Other members have used advance auto GXP axles and have had good results. You can try those. And they're warrantied.

 

I'll try getting one for both and replacing them at the same time and see how that goes. Can't hurt, right...? And warrantied is always good.

 

Glad to hear someone got this issue fixed, going to try to pass this by my dealership and see if they will satisfy my curiosity

 

04 TL 6 speed 165k. Vibrates on load ONLY about 50-65.Mph.

Cars runs perfect other wise.

I have replaced the HALF SHAFT with OEM...
NO CHANGE.

I hate to spend the money for Axels if its not going to fix the problem

Suggestions ??

 

Did you replace the axles with OEM? The axles are far more likely to cause this issue than the half shaft.