vibrating when braking

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Old 11-12-2009, 11:11 PM
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vibrating when braking

I noticed whenever i brake driving high speed the pedal and the steering wheel vibrates is that normal? slow speed and normal braking there is no vibration..
Old 11-13-2009, 12:30 AM
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No, it's not normal-- it sounds like you have at least one slightly warped disc/rotor; it's often correctable by turning/machining if the discs/rotors have enough material still on them.
Old 11-13-2009, 09:56 AM
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yup one or both discs are warped, might need to change them i'm not sure by turning/machining them will correct them...
Old 11-13-2009, 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the reply guys will take it to acura.
Old 11-17-2009, 04:25 PM
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car at the dealer for this issue lets see what they say.
Old 11-17-2009, 06:59 PM
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Lightbulb

One of the most common causes of this problem are overtightened lug nuts.
They should only be tightened to 80 ft-lbs.
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
One of the most common causes of this problem are overtightened lug nuts.
They should only be tightened to 80 ft-lbs.
.
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i don't think i understand how that relates? if you over-torque your wheels...that can warp your rotors?

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Old 11-18-2009, 01:03 AM
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Hm.. I have the exact same problem as well.
If I brake harder than normal (normally I slow down to a stop) depending on the situation, I notice steering wheel starts to shake (vibrate).
Storm, please let us know what the dealer says.
Old 11-18-2009, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by erick3
i don't think i understand how that relates? if you over-torque your wheels...that can warp your rotors?
Rather than taking our word that the over tightened lug nuts can cause rotor run out, Google “over tighten lug nuts” and enjoy the reading.

Originally Posted by dbqkqh
Hm.. I have the exact same problem as well.
If I brake harder than normal (normally I slow down to a stop) depending on the situation, I notice steering wheel starts to shake (vibrate).
Storm, please let us know what the dealer says.
If you have a pulsation in the brake pedal you won’t need to wait to see what the dealer says. The only question would be, is the rotor to be cut or replaced. If the pulsation is minimal, chances are that the rotors can be turned and still be within the factory minimum thickness, but if the feel is very heavy, or the rotors are scored, the rotors will need to be replaced along with the pads.
Old 11-18-2009, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
Rather than taking our word that the over tightened lug nuts can cause rotor run out, Google “over tighten lug nuts” and enjoy the reading.
You can do a search right here within AZine and read all about it. There's been a number of threads on the subject.
.

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Old 11-18-2009, 08:45 AM
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You can also warp rotors just with normal use .. not just the over tightened lug nuts ... If the car was put away with hot brakes the pads will insulate a portion of the disc so it doesn't cool evenly .. thus a warp.

This is more common if your in mountainous country and your destination is near the bottom. Your brakes don't get to cool before you shut down.
Old 11-18-2009, 11:45 AM
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Be careful about turning the rotors. Sometimes the dealers don't do such a good job. My car has 17500 miles and I am on my second set of pads and third set of rotors. Took the dealer a while to get it right. Car initially had rust ridges in the brakes when I bought it, that's why I have had to replace so early.
Old 11-18-2009, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
You can do a search right here within AZine and read all about it. There's been a number of threads on the subject.
.
.

Yes, they can search the Forum, but some people don't consider the member's thoughts on a subject a vaild answer.
Similar to this thread, as you recommended using the proper torque to tighten the lug nuts to help avoid the out of tolerance condition, and what was the next reply:

"i don't think i understand how that relates? if you over-torque your wheels...that can warp your rotors?"
Old 11-19-2009, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by abacon09
Be careful about turning the rotors. Sometimes the dealers don't do such a good job. My car has 17500 miles and I am on my second set of pads and third set of rotors. Took the dealer a while to get it right. Car initially had rust ridges in the brakes when I bought it, that's why I have had to replace so early.
Most if not all Acura and Honda dealers use the lathe that resurfaces the rotors ON THE CAR. That way, the new surface is perfectly perpendicular the car's wheel hub and spindle. I've always believed this is the best way to do it.
.
.
Old 11-19-2009, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DMZ
Most if not all Acura and Honda dealers use the lathe that resurfaces the rotors ON THE CAR. That way, the new surface is perfectly perpendicular the car's wheel hub and spindle. I've always believed this is the best way to do it.
.
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I'm sure the majority of the time the job is done correctly. I was just saying that I have had a bad experience in the past where I still got pulsating from the brakes after having the rotors lathed. What you said makes sense.
Old 11-19-2009, 09:52 PM
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Acuras and Hondas are notorious for warped rotors. They went to semi-metallic pads to enhance high speed braking and to reduce fade, which means they had to go to a softer rotor. The rotors are thin to save unsprung weight, which makes them prone to warpage. You can only cut them once, then you have to replace them. I am tired of it and next time plan to find after-market rotors that resist warpage.
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