I am looking to do my own valve adjustment. I know their is how to on how to adjust the valves but there really is not an explanation on what to disconnect from the intake manifold. What all do i need to disconnect? pictures would be great..

Thanks.

 

Are you sure you're capable of doing this yourself? I don't know if you have experience doing maintenance like valve lash adjustment so I'm just curious. You could end up causing more harm than good.

 

According to the owners manual, the valves should be adjusted if noisy (indicating loose valves), but if tight, they won't make noise, but can get burned. Having said this, and reading about the valve adjustment numbers of other owners here on Azine that indicated that their valves may have been just outside of spec at high mileage (greater than 100,000 miles) I'm not sure how necessary it is to have this service performed (if you're planning on keeping the car to say 300k miles, it will give you peace of mind, but in reality, probably wont make much of a difference if you sell the car after 150k miles or so). Others here will disagree with me, but I don't think it's that critical of a service. My old TL (2000 model year) owned by my brother in Colorado now has 151,000 miles and per him, runs as new despite never having the valve adjustment done.

 

I just got my valve adjustment done at my local dealer, the ticking noise was getting really annoying. Its considered a minor service from what my dealer typed up but they told me I was long over due for this service. I felt bad but told them when I got my 105k done the mechanic I used(honda indie shop) said it doesnt need it but once there is a pronounce ticking sound than an adj. is needed.

I do feel that my car idles a bit rough now which wasnt the case before I brought it in. I might have a mount broken, but the ticking sound isnt as pronounce, now I think one of the pulleys for the accessory belt might be failing. Those were changed with new ones at the time of 105k since he inspected and stated they were fine.

 

you need proper tools and service manual specs to tighten down the valve bolts within specs. I don't recommend this to anyone who doesn't know much about working on car.

 

I feel pretty comfortable with doing a valve adjustment my self. My acura tl has 108K miles and it's sounding a little loud.

The service manual calls to remove the
1. intake manifold cover
2. remove the air intake duct
3. remove engine mount control solenoid vale, PCV hose, brake booster vac hose and vacuum hose
4. remove EVAP purge hose and water bypass hoses, then plug the water bypass hose (how do you plug the water bypass hoses?)
5. remove IAT, IAC, Trottle actuator connector (where is this located?) Map sensor, EVAP canister purge valve connector and IMRC solenoid valve connector ( how do you disconnect this?)

Remove cylinder head cover
and adjust valves according to specs on service manual.

 

On our engines which are somewhat notorious for "loudness", the "loudness" likely has nothing to do with valve adjustment....It made no difference for me. Do a search for threads/posts by me with keyword "valve".

 

could someone help me with my q's please...

4. remove EVAP purge hose and water bypass hoses, then plug the water bypass hose (how do you plug the water bypass hoses?)
5. remove IAT, IAC, Trottle actuator connector (where is this located?) Map sensor, EVAP canister purge valve connector and IMRC solenoid valve connector ( how do you disconnect this?)

 

I honestly think you should put the tools down and bring it to someone who knows what they're doing. Valve adjustments aren't exactly one of those try it out and see what happens kind of deals.

 

I understand that adjusting the valves is not an easy/ unimportant job. I am really surprised that I am getting a lot of comments regarding not do perform this job. I am not mechanical incline but before i perform any job i sometimes need a little guidance. I honestly thought i would be getting a lot of input on this subject due to this being a forum.

 

4. Go to an auto parts store and get some vacuum caps that fit the end. Use either a zip tie or small radiator clamps (i prefer the radiator clamps).

5. Throttle actuator connector is located on right side of engine (if you are facing the car). roughly behind the the throttle body... IMRC valve connector is located on the left side (if you are facing the car) of the intake manifold.

You now have the answers you need. But I agree with everyone above with not doing this, as you are unsure as to how to remove the Intake Manifold.

But at the end of the day it is your car to do as you wish. Good Luck

 

Thank you Fulani has a TL. All i need is a little guidance.
I have removed an intake manifold before but on a different car.

Is it necessary to replace all the gaskets, filter cap gasket and spark plug gaskets? i usually inspect them and if they are ok I reuse them.

 

The Service Manual says to replace the two manifold gaskets. I totally missed that when preparing and did not replace them. I've had no problems.

I bought new spark plug gaskets but wound up not using them as the originals were fine. But be aware, apparently the old ones can be very difficult to remove...

 

nfnsquared thanks for the heads up!

 

So I have read the car has to sit for like 10 hours or so before you do the job? Have a local that works for Acura that says he just puts a fan on the motor to cool it down before he does it LOL