crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

For all you guys who have adjusted your valves, how difficult is it to do the rear bank? Also, correct me if I'm wrong but the rear bank is cylinders 1-3 and the front bank is 4-6?

nfnsquared

Rear intakes aren't bad. The rear exhaust take a little extra effort and contortion due to their location . I removed the strut bar to give me a little more room, which IMO was worth the slight effort it required.

Correct.

Also, did you see the video posted by ericthecarguy.com? The link is in the Problems forum. So far, he's only posted part 1 which covers getting to the valves, but not adjusting them. Part 2 is not out yet, but hopefully soon.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I figured I'd have to remove that strut bar anyway. I've practically removed that damn bar than removed my seat belt.

Thanks for the info on the video. I'll definitely scope it out. I have the official Acura manual, but it's always nice seeing it done in person(or by a person on a video).

I figured I just did the timing belt and whatnot, and I know you're supposed to check the adjust the valves at the same time.

nfnsquared how were your valves, did they need a lot of adjusting or were they pretty much in spec?

nfnsquared

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...18&postcount=1

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'm quite surprised how out of spec your valves were. I'm hoping mine aren't too bad, but I also have almost zero valve train noise. Just a little noise from my power steering pump before it warms up. So, it looks like that might be my next replacement part.

nfnsquared

I don't think you read that post correctly. They were only out of spec by 0.001"...

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

You're right I totally misread your post. Hell, 1/000" I'd probably call it good enough, but if it's all torn apart anyway might as well do it the right way.

nfnsquared

One thing I wish I had done and which you may want to consider (depending on what trend is observed):

Since my exhaust valves all showed a tendency to close, I wish I had set the clearance to 0.012" - 0.013" instead of 0.011" - 0.012".

scottn3

Here are some pics and info of when I did mine. Admittedly, there isn't a great picture of the accessibility to the rear valves. I don't remember it being a big issue though.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/valve-adjustment-pics-854094/

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the pics and advice. I'll definitely watch out aboit overtightening the valve cover gaskets. Seeing actual pics of everything (to me ateast) is just easier than using the service manual pics.

nfnsquared

Yeah, as I've said before, I highly recommend using a 1/4" torque wrench on those bolts. The spec is only 8.7 ft-lbs. I would not recommend trying to use "feel" on those bolts.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

For sure I'll be using my 1/4 torque wrench. You could literally use a nut driver and tighten it more than 8.7 ft/lbs. I use my 1/4" for anything less than 15 ft/lbs. My 3/8" goes down to 10, but I just don't trust it at such a low setting.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

How out of spec were your valves? I know nfnsquared said his valves were only 1/1000" out spec.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

OP's gonna love me.

ErictheCarGUY just uploaded videos on how to do a valve adjustment.

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for those great vids. I already felt pretty confident in doing it, but now I psyched to get this done. Now all I need is the damn valve cover gasket.

dingaling

be careful putting the rear head gasket cover back on. its easy to damage the spark plug seals when putting it back on the rear due to the weird angle and lack of space to work with. Oil them up an carefully put the head back on. use ur fingers to make sure no part of the spark plug seal is pinched by the spark plug tube.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

*valve covers

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

I'm super impatient, and I got bored. I didn't want to have to wait to have the valve cover gaskets shipped to me. So, I decided just to take off the plenum and put the P2R gasket on. I know it's been said I could more than likely re-use the valve cover gaskets, but I'm the type of person that if I'm gonna do it, I'm gonna do it right. Oh, it was nasty in there too. I went through two cans of carb cleaner to get it looking brand spankin' new.

One thing that sucked though was I set my 1/4" torque wrench to 8ft/lbs(it's supposed to be 8.7ft/lbs), and all three of the front "upper cover" bolts just kept spinning. So, now I'm gonna have to keep an eye out to see if there's any oil that leaks from there.

What do you guys suggest I do with those three bolts, tap it the next size up or use helicoils?

dingaling

i did that to one of my bolts, just kept spinning, I said screw the torque wrench and did it by feel.. Now i'm just hoping for no oil leaks too. I guess try some head gasket sealant as well?

crbnfbr

iTrader: (1)

They weirdest thing happened I went out last night and tried torquing the bolts again, and for whatever reason it worked this time. I also checked for air leaks with a piece of paper, and looked for any oil leaks, but there was no air or oil leaking.