Used my e-brake today...

I noticed later this evening when I got home a strange smell coming from my rear driver side wheel. I could even feel the heat coming off of it...

In fact, it was so hot, where my type S wheel touched the hub it was a lighter grey than the rest of the wheel... I touched it and SIZZLE!!!

I checked my e-brake handle and it was all the way down(like it should).

What do you all think? Seized caliper??
Where can I get a quality replacement??

I read the autozone calipers rust in a week... Don't want any of that

Thanks in advance

 

Probably a frozen piston, but you can try and push the piston in and if no go, open the bleeder and try again. If it moves inward a brake line failure, if no go caliper.
I wouldn't worry about the AZ calipers rusting as they are normally rebuild calipers, but you can always spray paint it before installation and they are come with a lifetime warranty.

Also, have you changed/flushed the brake fluid recently?

 

No. No brake work since I bought car with 37k
It has 55k now

I'll check piston, and if I need a caliper, I'll do the autozone one I guess.
I just can't wait till next week for a quality one to be shipped at this point.

Thanks Turbo

Edit: replacing one caliper is fine to do? Don't need to do both rears, right??

 

Sorry for the poor english in the previous post, but was in a hurry.
One caliper is fine, but check the other side to be certain it's functiong properly. As long as you have the caliper off, do a brake fluid flush to get rid of the "old" fluid.

 

also check your GUIDE PINS, if one froze, the caliper cannot move freely

 

Yeah. I figured one caliper would suffice.
I'm just used to doing everything in pairs(tires/brakes/lights/etc..)

Thanks for the suggestions.
Will post my outcome when done...

 

My brake hose was the reason my caliper seized. The brake hose collapsed and the pressure was great enough to push fluid through, however the fluid would then not retreat. The brake hose is only $15, i would replace that too. The AZ calipers will rust in a week and do have a lifetime warrantee, however I am on about my 4th one in two years. I was reading through hoping someone would comment on a good caliper. I want to find a new, painted caliper that will last. I am tired of messing with AZ calipers...

 

I would buy only OEM calipers... I have never had issues with ones made by Honda/Acura as I have yet to replace any that were already on the car. AZ rebuilds that stuff as cheaply as possible... Napa Gold calipers are painted so they should not rust (at least they were for the Toyota and Civic that I put them on)

 

Well, the reason we are replacing the calipers is because the OEM has gone bad, so just because it's OEM doesn't indicate it will last.
Not much to a caliper other than seal, boot, piston, and if rebuilt the core is probably an OEM unit and any unpainted metal will rust, just take a look at the rotors.

 

You said you used the E-brake but before using the E-brake the brakes functioned normally. Going based on what you said, the issue shouldn't be the caliper. The E-brake system on the TL is inside the rotor. Uses brake shoes, not the caliper itself. You most likely shifted the shoes and they locked in a certain position. Remove the rear caliper with bracket and rotor to inspect the inside of the rotor and brake shoes.

 

^^^thanks
it's getting fixed tomorrow...we'll see what it is...

after i got home and things cooled off, i was able to push the car around in neutral.
i also did not have excess brake dust, like i thought i'd have.

just weird. i haven't driven it since. I'm just driving it straight to the place tomorrow, just in case it happens again(which i'm sure it will).

just hope it's something cheap and easy. =)

 

If you didn't see excessive amount of brake dust, it just further validates my statement of it's the E-brake that's at fault. Let us know what happens.

 

I just had the EXACT same thing happen to me last night. Have it over to the dealer to diagnose. I can almost guarantee it is the caliper and not the e-brake, as my rear brake pads are squealing now - unless those are the brake shoes for the e-brake? Although, I didn't have any telltale brake dust indicative of a seized caliper...

 

He could have a defective caliper. I'm going based on what he said about using the E-brake and then the issue happened. Other than brake dust being excessive for the problematic caliper, brake pad thickness would be the next indication (Visual inspection). The side the has the issue will have less brake pad vs the other side. Frozen slides will show up as the inner pad being very worn compared to the outer pad. Another way is by spinning the wheel by hand and feeling resistance. I will show you some pictures of the brake setup on this TL.

Here you have the brakes (caliper and rotor). This is for stopping the vehicle.


Here is the parking brake setup with caliper and rotor removed.

 

Easiest way to check for brake problems is to invest in an infrared thermometer as they have many uses. Not big on Harbor Freight, but they carry one for $20.

 

Sounds like brake hose collapsed if the caliper released after sitting for a little while. It had time for the pressure to slowly back off.

 

OEM are built to better standards imho

when I got the napa calipers I noticed several things that would lead me to believe that they are not nearly the same as OEM

1. Rubber parts like the pin boots were much much thinner
2. the dust boot was also thinner
3. the shims seemed to be much more flexible and not as ridged as the OEM ones

 

so, mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with brakes...

neither of us could repeat what happened, so that's that i guess...

he did tell me i need new brakes in the next 8-10,000 miles

maybe when i do the brakes i'll do the lines too, for the hell of it

 

I just replaced by left rear caliper on my '06 TL because it was seized and making an awful rubbing noise...because the inside pad was worn down to the metal. I bought replacement calipers from Advance Auto Parts for both sides---the right was heavily rusted and begging to fail---for less than $50 each after coupons. However, when tightening up the banjo bolt with a torque wrench set as per the service manual, the female threads stripped. Returned it, got another caliper from a second Advance store, and the female threads stripped on that one as well.

I returned both calipers to Advance and ended up shelling out $165 for the OEM Acura caliper and washers (sold separately) from the dealer, but it installed without a problem.

 

soooo
it happened again today, and i didn't even use my e-brake!

one thing i DID notice was, when proceeding from a stop sign, i was able to hear a light grinding noise from the back(like my brakes were hung up). had to have super hearing to hear it though... i had no radio on etc.. (baby was sleeping).

ugh, so annoying... wish the stupid shop i brought it to were able to figure out my issue.

so, what do you think now, being i haven't touched the e-brake?

seized caliper or faulty brake line?
being i need new brakes in 8K miles, i'm tempted to just get the rears done with a new caliper on the faulty side.

 

Our rear calipers get quite cranky when they near the end of their life in terms of stiffness. When your mechanic had the car in the air, how freely did the rear wheels spin? I bet your caliper is just stiff. Mine's been that way a few times.

When I get new brakes (rotors and pads), I'm just going to swap out the calipers in the rear and also change the rubber brake hose that connects the brake line to the caliper. I figure everything will be back to factory spec then.

 

Well, it's difficult to determine the problem if the brake system acts normal when doing an inspection. If the caliper(s) are removed, piston(s) move in easily, pins move easily within the bracket, caliper installed properly on pins, retainers look fine, then look at the lines.
As stated earlier, best time is to check when the noise is audible, remove caliper, try and push in the piston, if no go loosen bleeder and try again, if it then moves in, internal break in line restricting the flow back.

 

So, in order to get this settled this time when i bring to my mechanic...

I think i'll have him replace the caliper and the rubber hose going to the caliper from the brake line(and also flush out old brake fluid). Then , next month, i'll have all 4 rotors and pads done(need it anyways).

This should fix my issue i hope. I just can't be having issues with brakes with a 6 month old in the car... nor do i want to keep spending $40 for an inspection on my brakes to get nothing out of it.

Thank you everybody, for your opinions/expertise!
This forum is great

Keith

 

http://www.acurapartsworld.com/acura...set-l-rr-brake

is this the hose i need?

autozone and advanced are both out of stock and would need to order from manufacturer

 

Thats the hose set, yes.

 

ordered new brake pads, rotors, caliper(one side), and hose...
getting done saturday at a discounted, cash rate.

i just hope i don't regret getting the autozone caliper($70 cheaper than OEM).

will see how it goes!

 

I had AutoZone calipers on my accord for four years with no issues.

 

Replaced right rear caliper on the daughter's Maxima many, many, years ago with one from AZ and last week needed to do another replacement as the piston wouldn't screw in, but the caliper was free, lifetime warranty. The entire brake system needed an overhaul as the right rear bracket and hardware also needed to be replaced along with the right front caliper that was original, and rotors/pads.
She's had the car for 11 years and just turned 250k miles, so no complaints.

Hope the TL holds up as well.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

Thanks , I will definitely give feedback, once the job is done...

One last question... Should I get the guide bolts for the caliper?? Necessary?
I was planning on it when I picked up my parts(they're only like $4).

I also got the hose clamps for hose b/c I read that they rust/snap when removing old hoses

Edit: last 2 posts make me feel better about getting the AZ caliper... Thanks!
Plus, if anything does go wrong with it, I don't have to ship. Convenient.

 

UPDATE!! NOW BOTH SIDES= PLEASE HELP!!<--- mods, could you update my thread title. i need help asap and don't want to start a new thread. thank you!

my caliper issue has worsened... drove the car tonight, and now my passenger rear side was extremely hot. i could feel the heat standing next to it and wheel was hot to touch.

basically, the SAME EXACT problem i was having with my driver rear side.

The thing is, sometimes the driver side(the original side with the issue) is really hot after my drive, and sometimes it's totally normal.
You helpful members help me diagnose it was either the caliper seizing or hose collapsing, so i bought both with intention to get installed this Saturday.

But now that the passenger side was the culprit, and the driver side was totally fine, could it possibly be something entirely different?? I mean, what's the chances of both my calipers going to crap at the same time(i only have 56K miles btw).
Could it be something like master brake cylinder or something? i have no idea...definitely not mechanically inclined. obviously.

I'm desperate at this point... don't want to just throw a bunch of $ at it. Just seams fishy that both are acting up now.

PLEASE HELP
Thanks guys... So far, you've been very helpful and i appreciate it

Keith

 

Install calipers, report back. Still sounds like the calipers.

Probably wouldn't hurt to flush the brake fluid while you're at it.

Has the car driven in any bad winters? Any road grime will destroy these calipers.... relatively quickly.

 

yes, it gets driven in winters... at least since i got it in 2012

just seams weird that both would go bad at same time, no? what's the chances of that... but, maybe you're right. I would just hate to throw $ into new calipers and hoses, and labor, if that wasn't the issue the whole time...

any other possibilities?

thanks for the quick response too

 

Hell, my two rear calipers went out two months apart from one another.

Don't use your parking brake until you get the calipers fixed.

 

ordered the other caliper and hose, as per Turbonut and your suggestions...

thanks.