SurfingScotty

This 1st one is probably an easy fix? I drove the family back home to CA this weekend and 4 different times I've gotten the "tighten fuel cap" message. I go out, give it a few more clicks and eventually the warning goes away only to come back the next day or so. Thoughts? The car has been at 4,200 feet elevation for the past year.

Number two: Since I've been down here If feels like the clutch is slipping when I hit the gas hard....WHILE I'm fully in gear and foot is nowhere near the clutch. The best way I can describe it is when you're on a slick surface and you hit the gas; the wheels break free and the tachometer climbs rapidly. The thing is, I'm on dry ground and I'm almost positive the wheels are not breaking loose.

Is this the sign of the clutch going bad? I've never owned a manual transmission with over 150 BHP before so with nearly 300, I imagine there are different ways of diagnosing the root of the problem.

JBONN

Buy a new gas cap and see if that helps...sounds like your clutch needs some TLC - suggest you send it to a shop ASAP (sorry, I am only familiar with AT's).

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

tighten gas cap message is very common on our cars. read this thread.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/tighten-gas-cap-light-3-visits-dealer-already-738498/

as far as the clutch issue, have you swapped your factory fluid for GM synchromesh? seems to solve a variety of issues for you MT folks.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/gm-synchromesh-oil-3g-tl-shifts-nicely-now-833039/

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^sharskbreath, the GM juice will only solve "notch-y gear problems"
for example, 3rd gear pop out or grind.

I believe that the OP's clutch is indeed slipping.
he'll need to replace the clutch soon

SurfingScotty

Thanks guys. I have swapped the fluid for GM and that solved the 3rd gear issue. I think I already knew the clutch was going bad as I've also noticed that when I drive spiritedly and shift quickly, the clutch takes a second or two to fully re-engage with the petal all the way released. Anyone know how much a clutch replacement costs? This is something that I don't feel comfortable replacing myself. I heard it's pretty tough.

I'll try a new fuel cap and see if that fixes the notice I keep getting.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

acuraoemparts.com
bought my clutch kit from them for about $250.
had a local indie mechanic put it in for me for about $400.

if you need a flywheel, it will be an additional ~$400 at the same source...acuraoemparts.com

SurfingScotty

How would I know if I need a new flywheel? Also, would you recommend going OEM, or aftermarket?

mY sLOW UA6

When you say that it seems like the clutch takse a second to engage after you shift quickly that is either your slipping clutch or it could be the checkvalve. The checkvalve sits in the slave cylinder and prevents the clutch from engaging instantaniously, it can be deleted there is a DIY thread on this site. You will know if you need a new flywheel if when you take your clutch out and there are heatspots on the flywheel.

SurfingScotty

Thanks for the info. I'll do a search for the DIY when I get back into town. My starter went out yesterday so I'll add it do my laundry list of things to do. If you know exactly where the DIY is, a link is always appreciated. However, I DO know how to use the search button.

I also want to clarify one thing: I did mention this but: When the transmission is fully engaged (clutch pedal fully out) and I lean on the gas quickly, the RPM's jump momentarily as if the tires and wheels aren't matching the engine speed, then drop down to match the gas pedal position. I want to make sure it's the clutch and not a more serious transmission problem. Sorry if I reiterated.

**Thanks Sent**

mY sLOW UA6

Ya thats the clutch, don't feel bad because my clutch is also fried. Thank god for the extended mileage warrenty

SurfingScotty

So for the clutch, aftermarket or OEM?