It's not the fucking fluid! Stop posting this stuff.

People have been putting the wrong switches in the wrong place in the '07-'08 models as it has recently been discovered. He did the fluid first and it was fine. Then he did the switches and it slipped..... I wonder what caused the problem. If he puts D4, Z1, or whatever in there with the switches like they are it's just going to fail sooner.

Leave the type F in there, install the correct switches in the correct place, problem solved. You should not drive it with a flare, eventually you will be past the point of no return and need a rebuild. Find a way to make it not flare, either SS mode or let off the throttle, let it shift, then get back on the throttle.

At full throttle, the switches are not used as the input for shifting so it makes sense it would shift fine.

 

You're killing your transmission over a simple switch replacement. Why would you continue to drive knowing this flare is wearing it out quickly. It won't survive much longer like that. Remember a year ago I told everyone all it takes is a second of slip to ruin it. You're letting it slip 1.5 seconds each time it shifts. Don't drive it or figure out a way around the slip.

 

You have 2 brown ones and 1 black one. the 2 brown ones are identical. I don't understand how this can happen.

 

thanks for the post i hate cars, because you took your time to explain and answer my question on why it doesnt slip at full throttle, i will try removing the switches this weekend and checking them.

 

Looking forward to the results. I just don't want to see you kill the trans over a small electrical issue when it's in good mechanical condition.

 

Hey IHC, can you tell us which part number goes for which gear sensor from 04-06 because from searching I only found part numbers that needed to be ordered but doesn't say which number goes to the 3rd gear and which goes to the 4th, it doesn't say so on acuraoemparts.com neither. Thanks.

 

looks to be right. 2 white ones and 1 black one. the black one goes in the frontside of the tranny, and the black ones are on the side and the backside.

 

my tranny is done for. was driving to my friends house today when it shifted roughly in 3rd and then the manual mode became useless. then i got 2 codes on my navi screen, D light blinking, and VSA and CEL came on. i've accepted that my tranny is done for. currently looking for shops for either a rebuild or replacement. however after i restarted the car it drove fine again, however the cel stayed on. i cant trust this car for long trips right now.

 

codes p1745 and p0777. p1745 says my reverse gear may not operate, but it does.

 

"Pressure control solenoid "B" stuck on"... That's p0777. It controls line pressure. Something with the install is definitely screwed up whether it's from the switch in the wrong place, wrong part#, wrong plug to the wrong swtich, or something you unplugged or knocked loose by mistake. I don't understand why you're ruining a perfectly good transmission. If it's not toast already it will be soon. This code has nearly pin pointed the problem but you're still driving it and slipping the clutches and regardless of how or why it fails you're going to have the usual members saying the fluid did it.

 

so what do you suggest i do? buy new switches? i just posted pics confirming that they are in the right spots and all plugged in securely. if you are REALLY sure about what you say, i will go ahead and buy new switches.

 

blinking D light.

 

fine, i will try removing the switches tomorrow, and re-install and take pics so you guys can make sure i am doing it right

 

i tried googling the error codes, but im getting mixed results. do diff car manufacturers use diff code numbers or are they all the same across all cars?

 

P0777 ACURA - Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck On

Symptoms
- Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)
- Transmission shift shock

Possible causes
- Faulty line pressure solenoid valve B
- Line pressure solenoid valve B harness or connectors
- Line pressure solenoid valve B circuit is open or shorted
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid

Tech notes
When the a transmission solenoid is stuck on, in most cases the problem is not the electrical part of the solenoid; the problem is foreign material obstructing the mechanical function of the solenoid or the flow of the fluid through the transmission valve body. If the transmission fluid is very dirty, it is recommend changing the transmission fluid and if possible removing the transmission pan for further diagnosis. Excessive debris or metal particles on the transmission pan could be an indication that there is a transmission mechanical failure and that the transmission will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

When is the code detected?
The gear required by the Engine Control Module (ECM) does not match the actual gear when driving

P0777 ACURA Description
The line pressure solenoid valve B regulates the oil pump discharge pressure to suit the driving condition in response to a signal sent from the Transmission Control Module (TCM).

 

Bold says it all. Something is in the wrong place. Thanks for posting the info. The ECU thinks it's in one gear when it's not. The switches tell it which gear it's in.

You can start with checking the electrical connections, make sure no pins got bent or dirty. I'm not familiar with the '07-'08 switch part numbers but I know the wrong ones were posted in the big thread and were just recently corrected. I'm not sure if you can go solely by the color code. I would do some serious research into part numbers. This thing is probably still salvageable but the wear you're putting on it with this flare is going to kill it quickly.

This sounds just like the guy's problem that's blaming the fluid for everything....

 

thx for the post. would u happen to have one for p1745 also?

i just took out all my switches. i even switched the two 3rd gear ones around since they are the same anyways. battery was disconnected during this procedure. i put everything back and car drove okay for about a block then slipping occured again, and then followed by rough shifts at every gear. i have already tried restarting the car and it does not help. every gear it goes in, it created a little shift shock and refuses to downshift even if i floor it.

 

 

i have checked every thing that i may have touched. all the connections seem fine, im really not sure what to look for.

when i bought the switches, i went by the part numbers found in acurapartswarehouse.com, i made sure they are for the 07 tl-s.

 

Honestly, at this point just take it to a dealer or reputable shop, tell them your story, get the work done correctly. You can attempt it again, but the weakest part of the equation is always the human factor. I'm not knocking your mechanical skills, but it's better to say you've had enough and let the pro's take care of it. We've all had these types of lessons. Hopefully you can still save your tranny.

 

I agree but the only problem is the dealer is going to instantly diagnose it as a failed transmission. They can't/won't troubleshoot.

 

i really want to bring it in however i currently have summer school right now. i live away from home for college and i have class everyday mon-fri. not having transportation is not an option at this point, and i dont think any place can fix my tranny within one weekend. however my classes finish at the end of august so i will have a month break at home which i can use to bring my car in. in the meantime i can just let off the throttle between shifts so the slipping isnt occuring, maybe that will save some wear?

btw, i was able to drive my car again, however it does slip a bit more than before, up to 800-900rpm if i dont let off the gas during the shift

 

^^^ So you said this all started happening after the fluid change or pressure switch?

 

The less you drive the car, the better! I can understand summer classes and such and it may be worth it to take a trip home for the weekend and maybe drop the car off, give the loaner to your folks and to take one of their cars. That way you can also say hi to your parents and surprise them and make their day!

 

it started happening a few weeks after the pressure switch change. it wasnt instant, it happened gradually and got worse.

ahaha u know how to be good to ur parents!

 

Hey, they are your parents after all and raised you and made you who you are! A smile on a mother's or father's face is priceless!

 

so, whats better, a rebuild or tranny swap? how much would either cost(just ballpark figures)?

 

Rebuild should be much cheaper than getting a new trans. A rebuild I'd say would be around 2-3K from an independent shop, a new trans from acura is about 5500 dollars.

 

Sorry if it was mentioned already but what is the mileage of your car?

Good luck with the repairs and hopefully its not as bad as you think it is.

 

just hit 85k today

 

i have a little confession, the night right after i changed the pressure switches for the first time, that was when i felt the first harsh downshift, almost like a shudder, maybe it is, im not sure what a shudder feels like exactly. it was from 3-2 downshift i believe, right before the car comes to a stop. it happened maybe once a day, but keep in mind i drive a lot per day. it did that for a couple weeks before the slipping symptoms showed. after awhile the shudder seemed to have gone away so i didnt think anything of it. but like i said guys, i triple checked everything, all the part #s, confirmed the colors of each sensor and connector with other DIYs on the site, and its all correct. is there really a possibility of a defective pressure switch? mine was sealed in the honda bag upon arrival.

 

Check your wires. You might have ripped or pulled the wire out of the connector when you unplugged the pressure switch harness.

 

i've already done all that. triple checked everything to the best of my ability.

keep in mind that a 2-3 slip has also happened on other TL's, not just mine. if the 2-3 slip was a unique problem that no one else had, then okay i most likely messed something up during the switch replacement. however, another member who never touched the pressure switches had the 2-3 slip on his tranny too and ended up getting a new tranny.

anyways, i went home this weekend and left the car with my parents who will take it to a mechanic couple blocks from my house tomorrow. for now i am driving their minivan to school, and they are borrowing my aunt's car.

 

Good luck with everything and thanks for keeping us posted. Worse comes to worse, I would do another fluid flush and buy new switches.

 

got a quote for $1600 tranny rebuild from a local shop.

 

You're seriouisly considering a rebuild for an electrical problem?

 

i am going to check everything one more time this weekend. if i cannot find anything i will have to get the re-build done. i asked my friend a couple days ago to let me drive his 08 tl-s, and i felt that the shifts are better than mine ever was. he has stock fluid(never changed) and never changed the sensors.

 

At 117 miles away, I'm tempted to look at it. I'm in your area all the time. I can't stand to see this thing being ruined over an electrical issue. And if there is a bad connector or something in the wiring, it will just burn up the new transmission as well.

At a minimum, go over the wiring including the connectors. Sometimes they can come loose and pull out. Sometimes the pins get bent. You have a code already pointing you to the exact one it is. Make sure you don't have two weather pack seals in the connector by accident. Check the switch for correct resistance and if it's ok, check it with the car on a lift and letting it hit 3rd and 4th with the wheels in the air being careful of course. This is a cheap electrical problem, nothing more but it is burning the transmission up.

If you can't fix it, take it to a trans shop and tell them you have an electrical problem and see what they come up with.

 

The exact same thing happened to my 2006 TL auto at 85K miles except much faster. I heard an light unusual whine at high idle, but the car didn't act unusual. The next trip into town resulted in the failure you described happening within one evening for me. No other symptoms before the failure. Deales says its a complete hydraulic failure and the car needs a new transmission.

 

I wanted to add that no codes or warning lights came on either.