usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

^^^ search for the diy. If you turn your steering wheel all the way to the right and look at your front driver wheel well you can remove the plastic cover and have access to the switches. It's easy, you remove the two connectors and put a 22mm (iirc) and loosen it and put the new one on.

TLTrance

Did you DIY your 3x3? I'd love to do it myself, but I think I'd probably need some hand-holding (besides the fact that I don't have a garage that I can do it in since I live in an apt right now).

I'm moving out to Dublin next month, so I won't be too far away from you!

Yeah, I think I'll do the switches at every 30-40K miles.

TLTrance

I have about 300 miles on the new tranny. Did you put in Type F or D4 (or equivalent)?

I like the idea of using Type F, but perhaps based on the way people are describing the feel, maybe I may want to use 1/2 Type F, and 1/2 D4... What do you think?

I hate cars

I would do all Type F for the first drain and fill since that will put you around 50% of each. See how you like it and decide from there if you want more of the same. If you do the switches and fluid you won't have harsh shifts, they will be better than stock.

usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

I don't think your talking to me about this one? but the 3x3 is very easy, all you need is a socket wrench, a long funnel, and a 17mm socket. Go underneath the car once on jack stands and look for the blue bolt that you put the wrench on, it's 1/4 and the wrench goes right in without a socket, push towards the rear of the car to loosen, and drain. As for filling, there is a 17mm bolt right on top of the transmission, look to the left of the rectangular fuse box and directly down you'll see it. I did this without a garage, just use a jack to jack the center of the car and put a jack stand for support. I did this, my review is that the type f fluid does indeed shift faster and firmer with no slipping however it is (to me and some) that the firmer shifts are sometimes harsh, causing a lunge effect when it shifts, a blend is what I recommend as I did another drain and fill (4x3) but the last one is with regular Amsoil atf and it shifts a little smoother.

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

Hey,

ya that should be fine, 1/2 and 1/2.

As for DIY, it's pretty easy, only hard part is un-tightening the fill and drain bolt. You would need a breaker bar.

See if this video helps, made by yours truly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71w0QE_X0Wk

Give it a shot. If you still have problems, I guess we can set something up, maybe I can supervise since Dublin is close to me. good luck.

TLTrance

Thanks for the video! Very useful! Now I just have to get ramps or jack stands...

NetGnome

If you use a breaker bar make sure you are turning it in the correct direction or you will strip a bolt.

wecoyote

Acura covered 50% without any negotiations.

There was a lot of discussion after this post where some people claimed there was a cheaper fix for it or a way to prevent this type of failure. What was the fix?

TLTrance

The "fix" is to make sure you use better fluid, like Amsoil or Redline, racing (Type F, lightweight) or at least a D4 equivalent.

Additionally, replace the 3rd/4th gear pressure sensor switches.. Perhaps every 30-45K miles...

umakemekissu

LOL great video dude.. too details for some ppl but a perfect "guide for dummy"

now if you can only do the same for the switches

narcotics

I'm gonna let you all know what happened to this Newbe.

On Thursday July the 14th 2011 my 06" NBL TL with 120K blew it's tranny on the 410 North in Brampton Ontario. No hesitation, no thump, no nothing. It just lost power and came to a slow hault.

Believe me I baby my car and never stressed it beyond any normal Canadian driving.

One thing I must add is that my Wife and I have been wondering about the cabin interior being really hot. Feels like the car's heater is always on. If you drive with the windows up, it's even worse.....

We believe that the tranny has been producing all of this heat and is possibly a symptom...IMO

I took my car too acura 2000 in Brampton and they told me that my tranny was gone and it will be $6000.00 for a new one or $3000.00 for a rebuilt. After that shocking encounter I was a little upset. I just did my 120K service which set me back over $500.00 along with my breaks all around costing just about the same.

Any ways, we have contacted Acura and they got back to me today to say they were giving me a new Trany and I just have to pay for the instal.

What do you guys think? Did I come out ok in this deal?

I think acura 2000 just made a new friend for life and now I want an 08' Type S

P1zzaman

iTrader: (1)

Define babying your car. What type of fluid did you use to flush your transmission, how often? When was the last time you replaced the switches?

You can wash, drive like a grandma and heck even take tons of pics of your ride, your transmission is the thing that needs babying.

usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

Maybe a transmission cooler is the solution to these tranny failures along with the 3x3 and pressure switches?

I hate cars

Babying the car, especially if the switches were bad will actually wear it out just as quick if not quicker than driving it hard.

I hate cars

It's not an overheating issue. A cooler will only extend the life of the fluid which is fine if you're using the crap factory fluid but not really necessary at stock power levels on a good synthetic.

The failures are directly related to sloppy, slow, soft shifts caused by too much FM in the stock fluid and bad pressure switches that cause all symptoms listed above.

TLTrance

How much did they quote you for the install? My tranny swap at 107K came out to USD 910.

TLTrance

I still think mine should have been goodwilled 100% since I brought up these tranny issues well before it actually died (and before my warranty was up). Mine went out at 106K (1K miles after the warranty expired!). I also mentioned that Acura's recommendation of changing the ATF every 60K miles or so is NOT a good one. Of course, they refuse to "officially" admit that, but every SA I've talked to has said that no more than 30K miles on the fluid -- one even said he changes HIS own every 15K (formerly Z1 fluid).

usmarinedelta

iTrader: (1)

I think that I read somewhere in the 04's tsb that the tranny had failures related to overheating or something? I could be wrong though. Anywho, is there specific evidence that states the failure is linked to the slow shifts? I ask because on my previous rsx I had z1 fluid it's whole life and never had an issue. I'm thinking it has something mechanical in there that's a weak point. I'm just saying that there are many cars out there with z1 fluids that are fine so there could be a flaw somewhere else.

I hate cars

It's covered in the "racing atf" thread.

The '04s did have issues with gears overheating but it was due to a lack of lube. A cooler is always a good idea, I'm running one, but that's not the specific cause of the TL's issues.