Trans failure?!!? P-1717 help!!!

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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #1  
TLS_TXKing's Avatar
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From: Central Texas
Trans failure?!!? P-1717 help!!!

Hello my fellow Acurazine friends!

It's been ages and eons since I've posted. But I'm stuck wondering what to do to fix the P-1717 code that has recently popped up on the Navi Display. I have looked through past threads of people saying that it's the wiring and blah blah blahh. Then someone suggested changing the transmission fluid.

And go ahead and mock, but I didn't have anyone to teach me about cars. I learn through y'all...

I did the whole: slow short drive making sure everything was fine.. But unlike the other person, my light did not just magically go away. I have a 2007 TL Type-S, 3.5VTEC. It's a 5-speed automatic with a Tiptronic transmission with paddle shifters.

Under the hood it said that the transmission was for the manual only. I am in a rough financial spot and and can't afford to take it to the shop. Help would be extremely appreciated.

Thanks guys (and gals)

And on an entirely different note, besides pouring Coke on the battery to get rid of battery acid, any other suggestions?
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 05:22 PM
  #2  
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faulty or loose range switch is what a quick google of P1717 came up with:

P1717 Transmission Range Switch (Safety Neutral Switch) fix with pics

There's a DIY here on how to replace the range switch
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #3  
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Baking soda and water works better than coke. Not sticky :-) I also suggest pulling the terminals off first and clean with a soft wire brush (brass) or toothbrush. Then put terminals back on and spray with battery terminal goop (red stuff usually). Good luck!
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 12:32 AM
  #4  
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I had this issue about a year ago on my Type S. The car never drove different, not that I could tell. It would come on, stay on for a bit, and go off after a while. It came on every couple of days. I finally got it fixed after a couple of weeks. I believe the part was around $90 from the dealership. It took my friend about an hour to put the part on. I would guess it's about a $200-$250 repair. If it was me, I wouldn't worry too much over it. It does need to be fixed, but I would just save up the money over a couple weeks or a month and just fix it when you can.
On a side note, I do remember feeling like the car shifted a little smoother after it was replaced, but that could have just been in my head.
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 12:36 PM
  #5  
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From: Cloquet, MN
Originally Posted by TheEntrepreneur
I had this issue about a year ago on my Type S. The car never drove different, not that I could tell. It would come on, stay on for a bit, and go off after a while. It came on every couple of days. I finally got it fixed after a couple of weeks. I believe the part was around $90 from the dealership. It took my friend about an hour to put the part on. I would guess it's about a $200-$250 repair. If it was me, I wouldn't worry too much over it. It does need to be fixed, but I would just save up the money over a couple weeks or a month and just fix it when you can.
On a side note, I do remember feeling like the car shifted a little smoother after it was replaced, but that could have just been in my head.
Mine did the same exact thing. I did a tranny flush the other day and it didn't make much of a difference if any. I ordered the new part from OEM Acura Parts and it was only $59.
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 11:05 PM
  #6  
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I was driving the other day and the CEL came on, the letter "D" began to flash while driving and the same error code P1717 appeared in my messages.

Looking for a fix, I read somewhere that I should run an ODB2 scan and figure out the error code.

Is it definitely the switch that is the problem or should I still run an ODB2 scan?
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 01:56 PM
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From: Space Coast, FL
Originally Posted by DopeBacon
I was driving the other day and the CEL came on, the letter "D" began to flash while driving and the same error code P1717 appeared in my messages.

Looking for a fix, I read somewhere that I should run an ODB2 scan and figure out the error code.

Is it definitely the switch that is the problem or should I still run an ODB2 scan?
OBD stands for on board diagnostics (revision 2) and you already got the code P1717 so getting the code read again won't do any good!

You might have to adjust or replace the sensor.
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