supraru

I know that both you trolls have limited knowledge about working on cars. Ihatecars is the only other person who is actually bringing knowledgable information to the table.

I hate cars

I agree for the most part except that Honda's goals are different than some of the enthusiasts goals. We're not so worried about cost and while noise sucks some of us might trade the occasional squeak for a few more degrees of fade resistance. I agree that the OEM pads are a great compromise all around.

getnbze

What other knowledgable information is needed here? Someone has already looked up the specs..... And you've established that theres plenty of "meat" on his rotors so turn away! lol. Just curious, do you work at Midas?

getnbze

And you are right, Honda's goal was to have a good all around pad. One that did resist fading but also didnt squeak.

supraru

Also you claim to find it hilarious. What have I said that's wrong regarding breaks Mr. R&D? I could see if I was talking out of my ass but clearly I am not.

supraru

So how was I wrong? Lets look at facts here.

-Guy bought brand new rotors
-Guy says brakes vibrate
-I offer a few different explanations as to how this could happen.
-I let him know he should cut the rotor because there is plenty meat on his rotors. I proved there is room for 9 cuts on his rotor before he reaches minimum spec.

So where is the horrible information I have provided? You clearly know it all so please educate me. Unlike most people I enjoy learning new things every day.

Nice cut on the Midas thing. If you knew how to read I have already stated my profession.

supraru

I see your point. Me personally especially if I'm running an aggressive pad and it's the same brand and pad sure if I was in a pinch then I could just slap pads on. Me personally with more aggressive pads they tend to eat rotors. After running my track pads on my Rsti for 9 months and the pads were just about smoked it was a pain to get the pads out because it ate so much of the pad there was a huge lip around the outside of the rotor where the pad doesn't contact. I could have slapped new track pads on there but I was more interested in getting a nice flat braking surface so I cut them. For my personal preference I'd rather start fresh. Doesn't mean you can't just slap the same pads on there.

Me doing it for a living and customers cars is a totally different story. Most of the time when customers need brakes 85% of the time there is a vibration. You can imagine the back lash if we just slap pads on their car and they leave with a vibration. At least at our dealer the writers explain it will be X ammount more to retrue the rotors. Only in extreme rare occasions do customers decline retruing the rotors. Customers hate coming back.

We actually had one a couple weeks ago that the guy ended up trading in. Pads actually fell out/vanished.

getnbze

Oh I don't know it all and never claimed too. I'd love to tell you where I think your wrong but damn where do I start... Your BS posts have pretty much taken over this guys help thread, lol. What is cutting the rotors going to solve? Getting rid of his vibration for another couple weeks? That is not going repair the problem. Not only will this not fix his problem but actually could of made it worse. There are NOT 9 cuts on a new rotor, especially on one that has run out or is "warped". Every time you remove metal on the rotor you increase its chances of it warping again. Look supraru, I'm not going to continue going back and fourth with you all night. Your entitled to your opinion and beliefs and others are entitled to theirs. My opinion happens to be that your full of shit and your one of those people that read the Car and Driver article on brakes and now your a pro! Anyways, enjoy the rest of your night, and when you need some advice on repairing your brakes correctly supraru, don't hesitate on looking me up

supraru

Wow, still a bunch of calling out and no facts. Again all I have are facts and you don't. Yes when you cut rotors they will most likely retain more heat then a rotor with more material. There is a reason the manufacturer has a "MINIMUM" spec. Honda is saying as long as the rotor is 26 to 28mm the rotor is in a safe and effective operating range. I really don't know how hard it is to understand this. This is why they engineers R&D'd the brakes. You should understand this since you claim to be in the R&D side of the automotive world.

I do like your bs tactic. Try and call me out on something you don't know about then when questioned you magically have zero facts to offer. Again, it's clear that you have no clue what you're talking about. Unless you are going to bring some factual information that I was wrong in my statements or even read them correctly in the first place there is no point in you posting.

getnbze

Is this you supraru?

supraru

Hmm....still no facts. Typical of someone who's pretending to be something he isn't.

I hate cars

The problem here is one poster realizes rotors rarely warp and uneven pad deposits are usually to blame and the other doesn't. If the rotors are constantly needing to be cut I would be more inclined to swap pads to a different type.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

What facts have you presented:
Cut the rotors .02mm, that was incorrect
Cut the rotors .2mm, that’s not correct as only .003" certainly isn't going to clean up the surface.
6 mm tolerance on Subi rotors, that's incorrect
Subi and TL rotors can't be compared, but one has a 1.9mm tolerance and the other 2mm, close as stated previously and certainly far from the 6mm tolerance stated.


Normally younger people that are eager to learn would digest the facts and go forward, but not the Subi mechanic as you get defensive and start with the name calling. Normal response from someone that really needs some education in the automotive field!

I hate cars

About cutting rotors.... You only cut if there is runout. If the problem is pad deposits which it usually is you only have to "kiss" the rotor face.

supraru

That was a mistake as a clearly corrected myself.

Really? I don't do it every day or anything. You're right I have no clue what I'm talking about. As a matter of fact two nights ago I put on my stock pads on the TL and cut the rotors .2mm and cleaned up the surface perfectly. But you know what? You must be right, I'm sure you cut rotors every day.


You were right about that. I will admit I misspoke about that as well.


Sure you can compare them if they have close discards. What you can't compare is an sti rotor to a regular non turbo subaru rotor. Non turbo pads don't chew up the rotor. Sti brembo pads do.

Yet again you still are ignoring my point of what I said. The guy has brand new rotors on his car that is a regular TL. As I have observed on my original rotors at 80k they are still well within spec. He has only had his rotor on for 3 weeks. My statement that he has plenty of meat to cut his rotors still remains true which is what started you on this non factual rant of yours. Again he could take his brand new rotors and make 9 cuts at .2mm a cut before his brand new rotor is right around minimum spec. Just like right before that I said that most likely his aftermarket pad was most likely his issue.

I already stated what his issues could be and offered him some incite as to why it could have happened to him and how he can correct it. You however haven't offered him any new incite or any information. So again where was I wrong in my advise?

supraru

If the rotor is in the lathe you're cutting the rotor no matter if you "kiss" it or not.

I hate cars

You know what I mean. If the problem is deposits you cut very little material from the rotor.

If anyone cares my shaking is gone and I had 21 miles around town and 90 on the freeway today. I'm going to have to start driving a little harder from time to time.

supraru

Yeah I know what you meant. I was just busting your balls. lol. Just out of curiosity what pads are you running on your car?

I hate cars

The ones the Stoptech BBK came with lol. I assume they're the same composition as their stock upgrade. If I weren't on my phone I would check for myself but isn't the OP running the same pads? I'll check after I post this.

Yep he's using the same brand.

supraru

The op was running just stock aftermarket replacement rotors made by R1. Supposedly centric makes them. Coincidentally when I ran the bobcats I had brand new centrics. They were the ones I said I had to cut a couple times before they didn't start vibrating within a few days. I wonder also if that is something common with the rotors or just like we said before the pads themselves.

roof2006

ok, corporate guy: why did the stock rotors on my '04 TL suck so bad and warp so easily?

supraru

Oh snap. So out of a stock rotor that has been cut at least twice I still have close to 7 cuts before min spec. Yeah you guys are right there isn't enough meat left to make any cuts.

getnbze

Corporate guy? No, not anymore . Supraru, care to handle this one as well? You were probably over driving the car. Put new OEM pads and rotors on the car and drive normal and let me know what you think then.

I hate cars

He was using Stoptech pads, same as me. I don't want any rumors to start floating around like Stoptech pads cause problems, it's only two cars out of thousands, I was just curious if they were the same brand.

supraru

Well you never hear all the good stories.....generally just the bad. A lot of forum people over react to things.

roof2006

If you designed those rotors, I can see why. No thanks - I think I'll pass on installing another pair of crummy rotors to replace the old ones.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Agreed, hypothetically I can take a new rotor and cut it 18 times if only .0005" is removed each pass. If rotor wear weren't a problem, one could cut off the buildup, leaving the original rotor surface and never need to replace the rotor, however in normal driving as you know, the pad buildup usually occurs after miles of brake applications and as the ridge develops around the circumference, this is the time when the decision needs to be made, cut or replace, but on a brand new rotor, you're correct.

supraru

I know I'm correct. Glad you finally agree.

Btw pretty much all manufactures work in the metric system. So it's .127mm. Especially since we're talking about acura's. It would be different if we were on gm forum. So you either work with domestics or you have no experience what so ever. I'll figure you out soon enough. lol

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Can't just drop it huh?
Are you as ignorant as the posts reflect?
If you look at the FSM, tolerances are listed in metric as well as US units, or don't you know the difference? Guess not, as you alluded to the fact that you didn't understand when I posted the US equivalent that was referenced in the FSM.

No idea where the .127mm might be as the rotor currently reads 27.58mm or .32mm less than OE minimum 27.9mm. You state the rotor was cut 2x, or .08mm per side, that's only, in US measurements .003", makes no sense unless you just enjoy cleaning up rotors. If the .127mm is what has been cut, that's even less as that's only .002" per side, or if you like .0317mm per side.


I'll finish by say that I've never seen a rotor that was out of tolerance that a .002" per side cut ever corrected the condition, this is why if pad transfer has been great, one must be cautious when resurfacing so as the finished product is within tolerance.

supraru

Well for one I only offered up information. You questioned my term"meat". You seemed to think there is none considering the real life size of measurement and not to the amount of actual rotor life there is to minimum spec. I proved right in this situation yet you still wanted to keep arguing. Generally this is what happens when someone is proved wrong. They wanna attempt to spin the topic to something else so they can try to get even in the discussion. Instead of arguing with people because you think you're all knowing offer some actual help to people in need of information.

I knew exactly what you were referring to, but as I said we're talking about a foreign car not an American car. Maybe try not try to be a guy who googles everything and get some real life experience. Btw you clearly give yourself away at actual experience about cars when you refer to Metric and US units. I believe the word you're looking for is Standard. Even newbs on within their first week of work know standard as to most are buying or have already bought tools.


I did not cut it twice. I cut once. The rotors were cut when the previous owner but all new pads on. I could tell when I looked at them they were at least cut once before. You claim this should all just be dropped yet you still argue. Makes total sense.

I hate cars

I'm thoroughly enjoying this conversation. Here's some useless info I learned from working on cars and from my own turbo car which some termed as "metric" cars back in the day because the engines were mostly metric but much of the rest of the car was sae...

3/8" and 10mm is not "close enough" in most cases. You will strip a 3/8" bolt with a 10mm wrench.

8mm and 5/16" is close enough.

11mm and 7/16" is close enough.

You can get away with a 13mm on a 1/2" bolt as long as it doesn't take much torque to break it or tighten it but it's not recommended. A 1/2" wrench will not fit on a 13mm bolt.

9/16 and 14mm are close but if it's really tight, a 9/16" wrench will strip a 14mm bolt.

5/8" and 16mm are close enough.

11/16 and 17mm are close enough.

3/4 and 19mm are close enough.

How's that for useless info lol.

Let's not get into allen heads. They're actually pretty hard to strip even the swaybar endlinks if you're not using an sae where a metric is supposed to be and they're full depth and straight. I can't get over how many people strip these things. If it doesn't fit very tight it's the wrong one.

Again, useless info but much of this thread is already.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

You guys were saying the rotor thickness is 27mm in the last page of comments....but I just researched that is for the non-brembo rotors only.

Hotwired05

I see the OP has gotten plenty of responses but I will throw in my since I have recently solved a similar problem.
About a year ago I installed a set of Racingbrake openslot rotors on my type s but instead of using RB pad I went with StopTech street performance. They were recommended to me by several people because they are quieter and grip as well as RB 500s. After 2 months of driving (mostly work and back and some spirited runs through the woods with heavy braking) I started noticing vibrations. They were slight at first but within the next month they got much worse. My initial thought was warped rotors.

I contacted RB with warranty claim that the rotors have warped. A customer service rep actually called me back, and called bullsh*t. According to them, rotors rarely warp. His words were "you would really have to put in effort to WARP them. Like intentionally get them scorching hot and drive through a puddle or two. Day to day driving will not get your rotors warped, even if you drive like a maniac, I'm willing to bet my pants that you are using the wrong pad compound"

In any case, they sent me a new pair of rotors (I just paid shipping) and a free set of RB500 pads. After bed in and 5 months of driving, I haven't felt a shimmy in my pedal even when slowing from 140+. I've gotten these rotors glowing red on several occasions with no warp.

So in the end, it looks like Stoptech pads do not play well with RB rotors. Might be the case for your OP, wrong pad for the R1's you're using and they're leaving deposits on the rotor.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

so now i need new pads and also cut my rotors? O boy....

supraru

No you don't need new rotors unless you like wasting money. Pads is up to you.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

LOl at mr. know it all.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

can you read? i said "new pads" and "cutting rotors" i never said "new rotors"

supraru

No you must buy new rotors and new pads. Otherwise your brake fluid will be off.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

wtf this guy

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

o yea, my blinker fluid will be off too right?