Torque Converter cure for 5AT 3rd to 4th gear "shudder" ?
#1
Torque Converter cure for 5AT 3rd to 4th gear "shudder" ?
I have a 04 5AT bought new, and it has exhibited the 3/4 transmission shudder. I have been taking it in to the dealer since 10K miles and chasing Acura Customer Service at the same time. I was on travel for 3 days, so I left the card for the 4th time with the dealer. Well this time they felt the shudder. I also let ACS know that the car was there and they jointly discussed the problem. Mileage at this point is 60K
I get back from the trip, and the diagnosis is the torque converter. I've followed the other threads here of owners who have had the same problem, and I think all of them have received rebulit trannys. They say the tranny is fine and the new torque converted will solve the problem. Does this sound right?
I get back from the trip, and the diagnosis is the torque converter. I've followed the other threads here of owners who have had the same problem, and I think all of them have received rebulit trannys. They say the tranny is fine and the new torque converted will solve the problem. Does this sound right?
#4
I'm getting my 04 back today from a transmission replacement due to the 3-4th shudder. I wonder if the torque converter gets replaced with the transmission. (Pardon my ignorance on the workings of the automatic transmission). I figure it does, so none of us who have had whole transmissions put in will know if it is simply the converter.
#5
Any update on this 3rd-4th shudder? I also have my 04 TL at the dealer for 3 days now and they seem to not know what the problem is. I told them about the shudder and how it only happens going up a small hill around my house. They say there is no codes in the computer for them to see the problem. Anyone have any idea on what i should do to have the dealer fix my problem or should i just go to another acura dealer?
#6
I bought my car just 2 days ago and felt this same thing while going up a small hill, twice now. The car is an 04 with an AT and 50K. I got the best warranty available and I'm wondering if this issue is always fixed with a transmission replacement and the torque converter replacement. I don't want to have issues down the road. Any suggestions?
#7
this is starting to be a bigger and bigger issue. hopefully Acura notices and they'll know how to take care of it's customers. i'm out of warranty (at 56k) and this is starting to happen to me more frequently.
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#9
Only time will tell if it is indead the torque converter. I had my entire tranny replaced at 105K. The problem did start with the 3rd to 4th shudder, and eventually the tranny started slipping in all gears.
Its possible the problem starts with the torque converter and continued driving destroys the tranny.
My service Tech says when he replaced my tranny, her also replaced the torque converter. He said a new torque converter comes in the tranny replace kit.
Its possible the problem starts with the torque converter and continued driving destroys the tranny.
My service Tech says when he replaced my tranny, her also replaced the torque converter. He said a new torque converter comes in the tranny replace kit.
#10
Any update on this 3rd-4th shudder? I also have my 04 TL at the dealer for 3 days now and they seem to not know what the problem is. I told them about the shudder and how it only happens going up a small hill around my house. They say there is no codes in the computer for them to see the problem. Anyone have any idea on what i should do to have the dealer fix my problem or should i just go to another acura dealer?
#11
My car is at 65k miles. It was doing this shudder earlier during the year but not as much as it does now. I'm going to lincoln tech and i asked one of my instructors regarding the issue and that was his immediate response that the torque converter is goin bad. I'm not saying he's right but he is a credible source. I picked up the car this morning and as soon as i left i feel the car shudder, im not sure why they can't duplicate what i told them. I will be trying my luck at another dealer hopefully today.
#12
My car is at 65k miles. It was doing this shudder earlier during the year but not as much as it does now. I'm going to lincoln tech and i asked one of my instructors regarding the issue and that was his immediate response that the torque converter is goin bad. I'm not saying he's right but he is a credible source. I picked up the car this morning and as soon as i left i feel the car shudder, im not sure why they can't duplicate what i told them. I will be trying my luck at another dealer hopefully today.
#14
Can anyone describe their "shudder"? I too have had similar issues with my 2g TL. Mine only shakes under heavy acceleration and it's so bad that I wonder if other drivers can actually physically see my car shake. Mine feels more like side to side shake that effects the entire front end.
I had the passenger side axle replaced and it somewhat helped, but not totally.
I had the passenger side axle replaced and it somewhat helped, but not totally.
#15
I also had an axle replaced and it was on the left side. I have yet to drive it up the infamous hill that makes the car shudder to see if that helped. From my experience the shudder will happen on low rpm between 2,200 or 3,500. Last time it happened i was in 2nd gear doing 20mph and the car jus shook so bad that i too wondered if other people noticed it. The shudder is as if the car struggles real bad to get up the hill. For me it's not a side to side shake but a forward and backward shake. Hope that helps
#17
So I took my TL in today to have the shudder checked out. Thankfully the car messed up about 250 yards from the dealership. The tech said it needed a new torque converter. I bought a warranty and hopefully it will cover it. They waived the 93 diagnostic fee so thank you Larry Frank! When I went back to drop the car off I asked when the transmission fluid should be flushed. He said every 30,000 miles. I said I think it needed to be checked too. He said "well that will be covered under a new tranny, cause it probably needs one". All I can say is dang. I bought the car a week ago today.
oh and do 2 recalls also
oh and do 2 recalls also
Last edited by DragonFlyPeace; 10-28-2008 at 08:38 AM. Reason: +
#18
So I took my TL in today to have the shudder checked out. Thankfully the car messed up about 250 yards from the dealership. The tech said it needed a new torque converter. I bought a warranty and hopefully it will cover it. They waived the 93 diagnostic fee so thank you Larry Frank! When I went back to drop the car off I asked when the transmission fluid should be flushed. He said every 30,000 miles. I said I think it needed to be checked too. He said "well that will be covered under a new tranny, cause it probably needs one". All I can say is dang. I bought the car a week ago today.
oh and do 2 recalls also
oh and do 2 recalls also
#19
I had the same problem and the dealer wont give me a new transmission. They only replaced the tranny fluid and I can still feel the vibration/shudder from 3rd to 4th. Im very dissapointed with Acura. Now i need to take it back to them and waste my time again.
#20
So they are going to replace the torque converter and the said they talked to Acura and they are going to cover everything. No need to get the warranty people involved. He said they see this problem from time to time. I asked him also if the tranny fluid would be changed too (cause it smelled burnt). They said yes. So we will see. One thing though...
Replacing the torque converter will not fix any damage that has been done to the transmission. Right? I know I read somewhere in a TSB that if you strain the transmission fluid and there's crap in it, it probably mean the metal in the gears have simply broke down. Right? Dang again
Replacing the torque converter will not fix any damage that has been done to the transmission. Right? I know I read somewhere in a TSB that if you strain the transmission fluid and there's crap in it, it probably mean the metal in the gears have simply broke down. Right? Dang again
#21
I'm also getting a torque converter free of charge thanks to acura care warranty. Now once they're done i'll test drive and see how the tranny feels. For you guys having issues with acura taking care of the problem, you really have to test drive the car with a tech or a manager with you so they can feel the shudder. This issue is bigger than transmission fluid.
#23
Torque converters work like...
They all have the same principles and function so here is my take on what is happening even though I have never seen inside a TL torque converter.
I have seen hundreds of Ford and GM converters opened as well as ProTorque, Art Carr, Level-10 and others.
Your transmissions have a lock-up style torque converter with a piston that engages the lock-up clutch. This is electronically controlled by a solenoid valve attached to the valve body (main control) in the transmission. When the PCM commands the converter to lock-up, the solenoid valve energizes and allows fluid to flow to the converter clutch path in the main control.
This forces hydraulic pressure on the converter clutch piston which moves forward and locks-up the converter. MAKE NO MISTAKE - A FULLY LOCKED CONVERTER TRANSMITS MORE POWER TO THE WHEELS! I don't care what people tell you about non-lock up converters feeling better and making more power. This is not true. When a torque converter locks up solid (very little slipping and they all do) then you have more power going to the driveline.
Transmission fluid (ATF) has two properties, calcium and ash. Calcium aids in the static coefficient of friction while ash is just a by-product. When ATF overheats and the transmission internals go above adiabatic efficiency (which is normally 170-180 degrees F.) then the friction materials on the clutches can glaze over and seal the pores in some clutches. This is caused by a breakdown of the fluid and the first sign is usually brown colored ATF.
Most ATF is light pink or dark red in color. As it turns to brown or purple it is showing heat distress. So when the converter clutch piston moves forward to lock-up the converter after the 3-4 upshift, it slips and generates heat and vibration which causes the shudder you feel.
There are two fixes but the main fix is a new strategy in the PCM to lock-up the converter more efficiently and minimize the slip. See Honda slips the converter during the engagement so it's not felt by the driver. Ford and Gm do the same thing. If you have ever been in a car with a good converter, when it locks up you feel it. It almost feels like another gear. The problem is the car feels like it's bogging down when the torque converter locks up solid.
This is because you don't have enough power going through it to use it effectively. Remember that the more power you send through a converter, the higher the "K" factor will be (notice I didn't day stall speed since this is not correct). So the stock PCM program most likely slips the converter to allow for more rpm during the engagement. SLIP = HEATS = DEAD PARTS!
You then need a good plate style transmission cooler within the 24,000 to 30,000 BTU of heat removal range. PLATE COOLER not a fin and tube type!
Fresh transmission fluid (HONDA stuff is recommended) and you'll be set to go.
That's my take on it.
A-Train
I have seen hundreds of Ford and GM converters opened as well as ProTorque, Art Carr, Level-10 and others.
Your transmissions have a lock-up style torque converter with a piston that engages the lock-up clutch. This is electronically controlled by a solenoid valve attached to the valve body (main control) in the transmission. When the PCM commands the converter to lock-up, the solenoid valve energizes and allows fluid to flow to the converter clutch path in the main control.
This forces hydraulic pressure on the converter clutch piston which moves forward and locks-up the converter. MAKE NO MISTAKE - A FULLY LOCKED CONVERTER TRANSMITS MORE POWER TO THE WHEELS! I don't care what people tell you about non-lock up converters feeling better and making more power. This is not true. When a torque converter locks up solid (very little slipping and they all do) then you have more power going to the driveline.
Transmission fluid (ATF) has two properties, calcium and ash. Calcium aids in the static coefficient of friction while ash is just a by-product. When ATF overheats and the transmission internals go above adiabatic efficiency (which is normally 170-180 degrees F.) then the friction materials on the clutches can glaze over and seal the pores in some clutches. This is caused by a breakdown of the fluid and the first sign is usually brown colored ATF.
Most ATF is light pink or dark red in color. As it turns to brown or purple it is showing heat distress. So when the converter clutch piston moves forward to lock-up the converter after the 3-4 upshift, it slips and generates heat and vibration which causes the shudder you feel.
There are two fixes but the main fix is a new strategy in the PCM to lock-up the converter more efficiently and minimize the slip. See Honda slips the converter during the engagement so it's not felt by the driver. Ford and Gm do the same thing. If you have ever been in a car with a good converter, when it locks up you feel it. It almost feels like another gear. The problem is the car feels like it's bogging down when the torque converter locks up solid.
This is because you don't have enough power going through it to use it effectively. Remember that the more power you send through a converter, the higher the "K" factor will be (notice I didn't day stall speed since this is not correct). So the stock PCM program most likely slips the converter to allow for more rpm during the engagement. SLIP = HEATS = DEAD PARTS!
You then need a good plate style transmission cooler within the 24,000 to 30,000 BTU of heat removal range. PLATE COOLER not a fin and tube type!
Fresh transmission fluid (HONDA stuff is recommended) and you'll be set to go.
That's my take on it.
A-Train
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