The brakes "creak" when they're applied/released when the car is barely moving (e.g. at a traffic light).

They're silent in all other driving scenarios.

My car's an automatic. Has anyone else experienced this?

 

Use Sarch you'll find discussion on it.

 

I did search it and was unable to find that specific discussion.

Can you provide the hyperlink?

 

I have the same thing. I am at 20% before my first oil change and I plan on letting them know about the issue. Anyone else?

 

Some people in other threads are suggesting a high performance, aftermarket style "bedding" procedure will resolve the issue and that using the Brembos to "slowly" slow down the car will result in the noise due to glazing.

If that's true, then why doesn't the owner's manual mention those things? All it says it to AVOID heavy braking for the first 600 miles, which I strictly adhered to.

No OEM pad should creak like this. I've had high performance aftermarket pads that were quiet as a church mouse.

I've used "bedding" procedures for new, aftermarket pads and rotors, but never heard of it being required for OEM parts.

 

IF the problem is glaze related- which can happen to anyone, hi speed bedding procedures will usually fix it at no charge

Brembos like to be used to make friction- thats what stops car

If everything were in the owner manual there would be no acurazine for us to hang out on!

Some model years get a free change from blunt edge pads to chamfered edge to reduce noise.
The OE take it easy 600 miles is for the common person to keep them from hitting the brakes way too hard and to a full stop or ABS useage and hot spotting the rotors
and- lets all say it together- glaze the pads and rotors

 

I think the fact the Brembos are on 1 inch larger diameter rotors and 4 piston calipers is enough to say- use these brakes hard and enjoy them!
They only come standard on the 6MT cars

 

I guess I don't see how your comments are relevant to the low speed brake groaning that I described?

They don't "only come standard on the 6MT cars," since they also come standard on automatic TL Type S cars.

Furthermore, the "regular" TL uses an 11.8" front rotor. The Brembos are 12.2". That's a difference of 0.40" - not 1.00".

 

Same exact problem here. I put 2500 miles on them and tried different braking tech. but its all the same. I finally went back to Acura and they heard it. They put on new rotors and pads. Same thing once again. Now I have to wait a while to brake these in before trying the bedding process. I ask the mech. what he thought. He said they have been told to brake it with the new pads like you stole it. The next day, they get a a memo saying to take it easy 600 miles. Who the crap knows?

 

I was in heavy traffic today and rolled up next to a Ford Ranger pickup truck, which had the driver's side window down.

My brakes "groaned" loud enough to get his attention. So his ~ $14K Ranger doesn't make that noise, but my $39K Acura does...

I've had many cars, most of which were performance models and one of which was fitted with 2 different types of aftermarket performance pads.

Not once did any of those vehicle's brakes "groan" a better description than "creak," I think.

The "break in" procedure in the car's owner manual specifically says to take it easy and avoid hard braking for the first 600 miles. I did exactly that. I'll try my preferred bedding procedure this weekend:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Let me know how you make out with your brakes...

 

My comments are relevant because you dont know what shape the pads are in- inspect them and bed them!- you may have the old style pads with flat edges- you may have hot spots on the rotor...

 

"Inspect" them? The rotors look fine. I'm not about to start disassembling calipers and inspecting pads on a brand new, $39K car that's under warranty.

TL Type S cars use pads that are unique to that particular model and were introduced for the '07 model year. They therefore can't use "the old style pads."

I'm going to perform a bedding procedure this weekend.

Another member above said he did it and it made no difference. The dealership replaced his pad and rotors and it still made no difference:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...63&postcount=9

And as I noted above, the Brembo rotors are only 0.40" larger in diameter than the standard TL rotors and come standard on all TL Type S cars (including the automatics).

 

Yah, my TL-S sounds like they got the brakes off an old late 70's chrysler ... seems kinda odd to have those sounds already.

 

The relatively aggressive, TL-S specific front pads have something to do with it. (They're more aggressive than the pads used on previous Brembo equipped TL cars.)

I performed a brake bedding procedure yesterday afternoon. I will see if it made a difference this AM (when starting out on stone cold brakes).

I think Acura should have specified the larger RL front and rear rotors for the TL-S. That would have allowed them to specify slightly less aggressive (and quieter) pads while simultaneously providing more stopping power.

 

Wow Harddriven brakes squeak/groan xm radio problems rear suspension problems window scratches valve chatter If i were you i would sell this car a.s.a.p. and take the loss

 

bad luck for this specific aziner... I've had my tl-s for 5months plus 4k miles... no problems... had a window screach sprayed a little 3m silicone (prob gone)

 

I have no window scratches or valve chatter. I merely posted to try to help out those who do.

You clearly have an attention span problem. Try getting that fixed "a.s.a.p."

Have you see ALL OF THE PROBLEMS with these cars on this board?

 

I have gotten plenty of good information from the rl & tl forums But you are just a negative windbag & i get tired of hearing it Just for fun try posting one (1) positive reply about anything even the weather

 

It is you who is resorting to baseless personal attacks, so perhaps you should reconsider your application of the term, "negative windbag."

I have no window scratches on my TL nor has its engine ever "pinged."

I subjected my brakes to a bedding cycle and the brake groaning has essentially been eliminated.

People post "negative" comments all over the board, saying Acura quality "sucks," etc. Go hi-jack their threads and leave my thread alone.

Example:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165492

 

Just continue "helping" everyone I will not respond to any of your stupid threads again Just a waste of time anyway Have fun

 

Good.

Thank you.

By the way: I have a bachelor's degree in mechancial engineering. You might want to revisit your definition of "stupid."

 

HD-
I will admit to lack of knowledge regarding what car model has what brakes- I am gen2 and thats all I care about
When you talk to a vendor about BBK Brembos they will say it has 1 inch larger rotors-
I dont care what the actual measurement is- rotors are measured in solid numbers like 11 and 12, not 11.45 12.33

Acura should do this or that- what a crok!- Acura should have put Legend calipers on the TL but didnt- oh well, when you are their design chief, fix that would ya!

Question: In the end- my suggestion of a good pad bedding using the MrHeelToe method
seems to have solved the problem?

 

Acura publishes TL rotor sizes.

The Type S uses 12.2" front rotors while the standard TL uses 11.8" front rotors. The difference is therefore 0.40", which is less than half of 1".

http://www.acura.com

Front Discs

Ventilated, 11.8 in (300 mm) diameter;
1.1 in (28 mm) rotor thickness | BASE

Brembo® ventilated, 12.2 in (310 mm) diameter;
0.98 in (25 mm) rotor thickness | TYPE–S

Rounding up or down to the nearest whole number with brake rotors is an erroneous approach, since swept area is a function of radius (Dia/2) SQUARED.

Thus, a seemingly "small" difference in rotor size is actually far more significant than it may first appear.

 

And you had a Camaro, dont forget to throw that one in...

 

It was a 1LE/LS1/6 speed Camaro - fitted with Kenny Brown subframe connectors, JBA headers, an SLP cat-back, a Recaro seat, a B&M "Ripper" shifter, a cold air intake kit and various other "tweaks."

That's a very different car from what most people typically associate with "Camaro."

Of course, that really has nothing to do with this thread, so I don't really understand your reason for mentioning it.

 

My typeS does the same thing I have 2700 miles on it. No grunting up to a stop but if I'm stopped and barely let off the pedal I get a grunt noise. It reminds me as if the parking break is up and you try to go and you get that grunt noise.
Also I feel you on the pinging noise too. Mine does that as well. Have not had a chance to get to the dealer and take a day away from work. Every now and then I wish I still had my 06 TL back. If I could just get the pinging fixed I would be satisfied.

 

Sorry harddrivin1le I was just reading in the other thread and read, that your car does not ping.

 

Mine doesn't "ping" (as you noted in your follow-up post), but I'll give you my 2 cents:

What type of fuel are you using? I've been using Shell V Power (93 octane) exclusively and my engine runs like a champ - quiet, smooth and powerful (for a 3.5 liter V6).

I subjected my brakes to a "bedding" process and it improved things SIGNIFICANTLY.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

At first I was hesitant to do that, since I did it with my '06 Accord V6/6 speed coupe and never felt that the front/rear bias seemed right after that.

Apparently the Brembo set-up is more likely to respond positively and I recommend it.

You will also get improved pad/rotor life and slightly shorter stopping distances by doing that.

 

Classic.

 

You mentioned in another post that you were concerned about the "erratic" driving required for bed in. I too have wondered where such a procedure could be done safely and without attracting unwanted attention (especially local law enforcement).

So, where did you perform the bed in procedure? Any concern from residents, other drivers or the law?

 

Some of the secondary highways are pretty clear around here on the weekends during the earlier parts of the morning.

It's smart to make one pass in one direction to scout for police, then turn around and perform the procedure in the opposite direction.

These cars get back up to speed (e.g. 20 MPH to 70 MPH) pretty quickly, so it may take less space and time than one might be inclined to think.

The greatest danger in terms of hardware damage lays in holding the brakes (e.g. at a light) while they're still very hot. That can cause warping.

So this must be done on a road where that's not likely to occur.

 

I have the same exact problem. From a stop, if I slowly let off the brake pedal, a groaning noise. The car is at the dealership right now to get that checked out among other problems. My TL-S has 2500 miles on it. I'll report back here if they fix the problem.

The dealership gave me a 2008 TSX loaner and I really like it. The brakes make absolutely no noise. I find the ride in the TSX much more smooth and comfortable too. Of course, it's too friggin' slow for me to downgrade to a TSX. In fact, I traded in my 2005 TSX for my 2007 TL-S.

 

Same exact problem here as well. I carried mine back and they replaced the rotors and pads. Still having the problem. I'm going to give these a 600 mile brake in period so I can honestly say to them that I did before carrying it back if it doesn't shut the noise up by then. I had a 06 TSX that was flawless. It just wasn't big enough for my family. Like the power of the TLS and the room but between the rattles/brakes/clunking suspension/pinging issues sometimes....I wonder if I did the right thing. Def. keep us posted.

 

07typeS: After the dealership gave you new rotors and pads, when did you notice the groaning noise again? Immediately or did it develop over time?

 

When the brakes were first put on, we drove it about 2 miles and they seem to be better. I drove about 50 miles back home and I noticed it was a little more like it was before. The car sat for a few days and my wife drove it and said they sounded the same. I drove the car as soon as she came home and sure enough the groan was back. I'm wondering if its the type of pads?? I thought about buying some different ones but the car is under warranty and it shouldn't do this in the first place. Mine has done it since it was brand new. Actually, I think they are a little more noisy if I have to brake hard in traffic.

 

My car has also groaned since Day 1. I just got my car back. They did nothing to the brakes. Ther service man told me that it was a normal sound with a new car's brakes. He said it should get quieter over time (yeah right). I didn't want to argue with him because they've had my car for 4 days and I just wanted it back.

I then noticed that in the 4 days and 3 nights my car was at the dealership, it had been driven 30 miles!!!! I had to take it in to fix rattles...30 miles might be okay to drive if they were testing it for rattles by driving on bumpy roads. But they told me they had a CD which reproduces a range of frequencies. So I was under the impression that they wouldn't have to drive my car at all! BTW, they eliminated 2 out of 3 rattles. One is still present near the driver AC vent.

Or did the dealership drive 30 miles to test out my brakes? Who knows?

I know that my car was freshly waxed when I dropped it off. I requested no car wash. I pick it up and its filthy. A filthy car and 30 miles of driving...I suspect somebody DROVE MY CAR HOME for the night...arrrrrgggg! I also noticed that I barely had any gas left...and 25 miles in range. I suspect my TL-S was floored heavily to burn so much fuel.

 

I would be very upset myself. Take a look at the post right around this on for a fix on the vent. TSB out on it but you may be able to fix it yourself... 07 tl rattle drivers dash air vent post. I don't think the brake issue is normal. When I get some more miles on these, I will break them in good and then see if its still there. I have 13 inch Brembo on my Cobra and those freaking things will throw you in the windshield with no noise what so ever. I'll keep checking for updates.

 

Mine still "groans" even after the TWO "bedding cycles" I put them through.

They seem OK once they've got a little heat in them, but "groan" when they're cold and/or it's raining.

I don't think it's worth having the dealer monkey with, since they may not even resolve the problem but might create new problems.

The Type-S cars have higher performance pads that are unique to that model. That most at least play some role in this.

I just wish they'd used the Acura RL rotors (12.6" front/12.2" rear) and "normal" pads. The car would be quieter AND would stop better.

 

UPDATE:

Brakes are "groaning" worse than ever. I has thought that the bedding cycle solved it, but that was only temporary (with lot of heat in the brakes).

The "groan" occurs the moment just before the vehicle is fully stopped. It also "groans" when the brake is released.

The dealer heard it this AM and confirmed that it's "not right." They're taking it in a week from Monday to resurface (hopefully very lightly) the front rotors and replace the pads.

That will be the third time the car's gone back in the 10 weeks I've owned it (brake groan, XM/auto climate control reset for no reason and a scuff mark in the paint that the dealer didn't catch prior to delivery).

 

I find the groaning is more prevalent on a cold start. But I'm of the opinion the dealer will never permenantly solve this problem.