Ok, I am now at 44k on a 07' Type s and this is the 2nd time i need pads and now 2 front rotors. I have 4 other friends with TLs and they all have the same problem between 14 and 18k you have to change those pads... The dealer told me 4 new pads and 2 rotors its going to be $1,586... INSANE... What have you guys done to get more life out of these Brembo brakes.. They told me the brake pad life on the brembo is around 16k... Thats isane for a 40k car... Has anyone put a different pad on the car and noticed longer life?

 

The OEM Brembo pads do wear out quickly. I got 27k out of my first set. Almost any other pad will give you better life, but possibly less performance.

Others will chime in with the various different brands.

 

I had new rotors and pads put on under warranty. I am very happy with the performance but I hate the noise. When the car/brakes are cold, they make the worse grinding sound I've ever heard. I'm thinking about changing the pad even if I do give up a little performance.

 

If you're at all mechanically inclined, it is very, very easy to do the job yourself. I just did mine (pads only) and it literally took longer to take the wheels off than it did to change the pads.

 

The pads suck in terms of durability, but they aren't designed for long service intervals, they are designed to provide the best braking performance. They ARE the best match for the TL in terms of stopping power, but the downsides are the dust and shitty durability.

You can replace the pads and rotors yourself, it's not a difficult job and can be done with basic hand tools.

 

I think DVS Dan was asking if anybody else has put a diff brand brake pad not brembo...i am bout to put some pads on my tls, but dont know what brand to go with at autozone..

 

Mine do the same thing. But it is right at the stopping/starting point. If I let off the brake to roll, but still apply some pressure to the peddle, like stoplight traffic, they just grind. They work fine but sound terrible.

 

I have an '07 TL-S... just replaced my front pads for the first time ever at 39,000 miles. Btw, I am the original owner. The rotors are still fine. My dealership told me the rotors should be good till 60,000.
My rear pads are still at 5mm, or 50%.

I am very light on my brakes.
Tip: Don't follow people so closely, you'll be surprised at how little braking is required when you give yourself a safe following distance. Don't drive aggressively until everything has had time to warm up.
Btw, I'm not making accusations, just giving some insight into my driving style.

The only reasons as to why you should be changing your pads so early are:
1. you're an aggressive driver
2. you live in a hilly/mountainous area.
3. you live in an area with extreme temps.

 

My 07 TL-S lasted me around 48K miles... I did hit rotor on the inside so when they were gone they were gone... I switched out to some cross drilled and slotted front rotors with some off brand pads... I have about 8K miles on them now and all has worked great!


I do notice a little less stopping power but like previous poster commented on I do not drive aggressively... Also the new pads have very little brake dust where the brembos covered the rims in black after a few days...

I did the brake job myself took like 2 hours you will need a impact gun for the center lug that holds the rotor on and an impact screwdriver to break free the phillips heads that hold the rotor to the front suspension... if you do not have these then dont even bother trying its almost impossible to break them free without.

I spent $220 for the 2 front rotors and sets of pads off of Ebay works and looks nice!

I would never pay Dealership prices!

 

here is a dirtry pic of the drilled rotors

 

I had about 40K on original pads before I tackled on the task of replacing front pads myself. Wasn't so sure if I could do it but it was very simple. Probably took longer to lift up the car and take the wheels on/off than remove/replace pads. I probably could have gone another 5K before the wear bar started hitting the rotors.

The ones from Autozone (Duralast Cmax Gold) have worked out pretty well so far for me. So far no more brake dust (as far as I can tell) and no noise (especially that awful groaning) when coming to stops.

 

i am running Rotora rotors and pads on the front and love them. About $450-500 but I also got braided lines front and back.

 

Something wrong with this or perhaps I've misunderstood what you mean.

There is no reason to remove the "center lug" (Spindle Nut); that's the lug for the hub/wheel bearing, if I'm not mistaken. The rotor is held on the hub by the 2 retaining screws, friction, then by the wheel lug nuts.






OP there a a LOT of aftermarket pad choices. Get something of good and reliable quality. You can certainly get pads with lower dust and acceptable stopping for less money than OE pads. Best I've found for OE pads is ~$165 shipped on ebay from Park Acura in Akron, OH.

I'm just past 40k miles and my 2nd set of pads are about done in. Rotors are getting worn too, but I might get one more pad change (another 20k miles) out of them.

 

There is a main center lug that holds the rotor on to the front suspension spindle area... you have to remove it along with the 2 retaining screws.. i wouldnt make that up it was a must or else it wasnt coming off... ive done brakes on many of my past cars even drums once which was a P.I.T.A.!!!

 

Sorry, but no, that is incorrect. The center spindle nut does NOT need to be removed. Retaining screws, yes; spindle nut no.

What happens is the rotor bonds to the hub (due to rust or heating/cooling or whatever). It may seem as if something else is holding it on, but there is not. Some just whack the crap of the back of the rotor to get it off.

There is a better method (IMHO):
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10657377

That's a rear rotor pictured, but all rotors on all trims (base, MT, TL-S) all come off the same way.

 

BearCat94

Thanks for the info - I could not get my front rotor off and started freaking out (OK maybe a bit of an exaggeration) - I used the bolts you described and had it off in less than 30 seconds.

 

Huh?? It takes 2 seconds to drill out those useless retaining screw heads. They are only there to hold the rotor in place on the assembly line. That's all you need to do (aside from removing the caliper) Don't mess with the hub at all....it has no connection to the rotor.