TL-s 6MT - Sluggish until 4500 rpms
TL-s 6MT - Sluggish until 4500 rpms
Car Details
2007 TL-s, 6MT
114k miles
I've owned the car for three months or so.
Issue (perceived):
So, I think my car is sluggish up until 4500-4800 rpms. It almost feels like the throttle is stuck (or soft) until it hits those rpms and then the car (noticeably) has more power and accelerates quicker, like there is a lag in acceleration. I believe I'm feeling the change when the butterflies open (I'm not sure what RPM that happens at).
When I first got the car, I had jerky acceleration. So I bought an APP sensor. It's still in the box (I've been lazy). So, that's my first thing to replace. If that doesn't fix the issue, what next? The issue reminds me of a slipping clutch, but my RPMS don't jump at all when I press the gas so I'm 95% sure its not the clutch.
Thoughts:
Could my butterflies be sticking? Spray some TB cleaner in the TB
Replace air filter with new one (existing one was changed 10k miles ago and looks OK)
Replace intake manifold (I'm having my heads swapped in a few weeks so this would be easy).
What does the Bypass Valve Actuator assembly do? Should I replace that, too? (#5 in this image http://www.acuraexpressparts.com/aut...nifold-07-scat)
Suggestions on what to do next would be much appreciated.
2007 TL-s, 6MT
114k miles
I've owned the car for three months or so.
Issue (perceived):
So, I think my car is sluggish up until 4500-4800 rpms. It almost feels like the throttle is stuck (or soft) until it hits those rpms and then the car (noticeably) has more power and accelerates quicker, like there is a lag in acceleration. I believe I'm feeling the change when the butterflies open (I'm not sure what RPM that happens at).
When I first got the car, I had jerky acceleration. So I bought an APP sensor. It's still in the box (I've been lazy). So, that's my first thing to replace. If that doesn't fix the issue, what next? The issue reminds me of a slipping clutch, but my RPMS don't jump at all when I press the gas so I'm 95% sure its not the clutch.
Thoughts:
Could my butterflies be sticking? Spray some TB cleaner in the TB
Replace air filter with new one (existing one was changed 10k miles ago and looks OK)
Replace intake manifold (I'm having my heads swapped in a few weeks so this would be easy).
What does the Bypass Valve Actuator assembly do? Should I replace that, too? (#5 in this image http://www.acuraexpressparts.com/aut...nifold-07-scat)
Suggestions on what to do next would be much appreciated.
Also, the ECU has been reset and the issue still persists, but I haven't done the idle relearn procedure so I may do that this weekend.
Again, this is a perceived issue. There may not be one. But my Accord never felt like this (03 V6 6MT) and its a very similar platform, so thats my benchmark.
Again, this is a perceived issue. There may not be one. But my Accord never felt like this (03 V6 6MT) and its a very similar platform, so thats my benchmark.
Thought the TL-s had decent low end torque, no?
Like I said, I had a lightweight pulley and a full exhaust (j-pipe + borla) on my accord and it was peppy, so maybe my expectations are unrealistic.
But this thing sure does get fun at 4500.
Like I said, I had a lightweight pulley and a full exhaust (j-pipe + borla) on my accord and it was peppy, so maybe my expectations are unrealistic.
But this thing sure does get fun at 4500.
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I actually sold a 6mt Type S because I couldn't figure out the hesitating and jerky acceleration. It was an 08 and I swapped and tried everything imaginable even had it in the dealership multiple times and they acknowledged feeling what I was describing. They rode with me getting live data and came up with nothing. Ended up selling it as nothing fixed the issue and it drive me nuts. The replacement 6mt Type S I bought was smooth as butter. Also, this jerky and hesitating feeling was ONLY during warmer summer months. No bought the car in winter and it was obviously smooth then.
Yeah now that I'm reading about the heatsoak problems and complaints, the more my issue sounds related. There's got to be something getting cranky, though... an O2 sensor I'm thinking. Or the bypass valve actuator assembly maybe?
I just read through your entire thread, JTS... wow. Sounds like you and I have (had for you) the same issue.
So, when I get my heads swapped in a few weeks, I'm going to replace the intake manifold and probably will replace the bypass actuator assembly, too. Don't know where else to go after that, but will keep everyone updated.
So, when I get my heads swapped in a few weeks, I'm going to replace the intake manifold and probably will replace the bypass actuator assembly, too. Don't know where else to go after that, but will keep everyone updated.
Because I'm paranoid and my car burned a lot of oil before my first oil change (like, a quart over 1500 miles). I've only had this car for 2000 miles, so its still new to me.
I replaced the PCV and have been monitoring oil levels and so far so good, although I can still smell it burning in VTEC.
I had the heads done on my Accord and I liked what I got so same guy is porting and polishing a set of heads for me as we speak. It'll give me a good chance to clean/replace the intake manifold and the other parts up there.
I replaced the PCV and have been monitoring oil levels and so far so good, although I can still smell it burning in VTEC.
I had the heads done on my Accord and I liked what I got so same guy is porting and polishing a set of heads for me as we speak. It'll give me a good chance to clean/replace the intake manifold and the other parts up there.
Are the heads different? (I'm assuming they are since you asked). I'm just getting the stock heads ported and polished.
Guy by the name of Paul (NVA-AV6... i think he's here on AZ) is doing the work.
Guy by the name of Paul (NVA-AV6... i think he's here on AZ) is doing the work.
So many different things it can be. I really don't feel like throwing money at it.
It does sound like a lean condition, which is strange because my Accord ran super rich.
is there a wait time!?
and yes, we've (and when I say we, I mean a few select gentlemen on acurazine and not me) have torn apart the J-series engines. (j30-J37)
they've found interesting things; like Honda making the J-series more for fuel economy ( the J37 heads are lighter and have less moving parts) which in turn boost reliability, but still retaining a rated 300 hp.
this smells of De-tuning.
ive picked up the J37 heads from the 07-09 MDX which will fit on my J32 bottom block.
I suspect that I'll gain lower to mid power, as the J37 heads came off a SUV.
Honda probably engineered these heads to help move the hefty SUV.
the J35 heads from the TL-s are made for TOP end! porting and polishing them will prove results!
good luck!
I basically just have to figure out a time to visit Paul for him to install the heads. He's finishing them up this week.
He did some heads on my Accord like 4 or 5 years ago when my friend did the 2-3-2, and they ended up fantastic so I went back to him no questions. Can't wait to see if that will help or make worse my problem in this thread.
I think I'm burning oil in VTEC due to bad valve guides (at least thats my hope), so I'm hoping the new heads also solve that issue as well.
He did some heads on my Accord like 4 or 5 years ago when my friend did the 2-3-2, and they ended up fantastic so I went back to him no questions. Can't wait to see if that will help or make worse my problem in this thread.
I think I'm burning oil in VTEC due to bad valve guides (at least thats my hope), so I'm hoping the new heads also solve that issue as well.
Well... yeah!
I mean, I got a compression test and a leakdown test done as soon as I realized she was burning oil and they both came back fine. So its either a stuck ring or bad valve guides or its getting past a gasket somewhere. Just peace of mind, I guess.
I mean, I got a compression test and a leakdown test done as soon as I realized she was burning oil and they both came back fine. So its either a stuck ring or bad valve guides or its getting past a gasket somewhere. Just peace of mind, I guess.
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