When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’m trying to diagnose a new noise on my car and would appreciate any help.
The noise (sounds like a warble, repeats about 0.7x per second at idle) began a few months ago, is coming from the belt area, and sounds like the first video. It is not serpentine related as I have run the engine without that belt and the noise is still there. The noise is not there on a cold engine and first appears when the temperature needle is halfway to normal operating temperature. From that point, the noise continues as long as the car is on.
I’m leaning toward the noise mentioned in the TSB 08-031 but would like to have confirmation. When I replaced my timing belt 20,000 miles ago, I decided not to install the shim because I had adequate clearance using feeler guage as per the TSB, and because my car had never had the noise. I also thought my car vin was not covered by the TSB but on rereading the TSB yesterday, I am now learning that the TSB states all Tls from 05-08 are impacted by the TSB. Moreover, on closer reading, I am now learning that the rubbing happens near the crank sprocket (not sure why checking for clearance at the idler pulley is needed).
The TSB includes a link to the sound but the link is only available to users of the ISIS system. Does anyone here have access?
Can anyone who has had my noise confirm it goes away with the shim?
When I replaced my timing belt 20,000 miles ago, I decided not to install the shim because I had adequate clearance using feeler guage as per the TSB, and because my car had never had the noise. I also thought my car vin was not covered by the TSB but on rereading the TSB yesterday, I am now learning that the TSB states all Tls from 05-08 are impacted by the TSB. Moreover, on closer reading, I am now learning that the rubbing happens near the crank sprocket (not sure why checking for clearance at the idler pulley is needed).
Just to clarify, is the 0.95mm feeler gauge clearance testing, as reflected below, supposed to be performed BEFORE or AFTER the shim installation to determine its use?
Looking at the TSB picture below, it shows the 'shim' installed while testing for the 0.95mm clearance in step 5 (red arrow)?
But in the tsb, the shim isn't added until step 15 so I'm not sure what they mean. I would guess it makes more sense to measure the clearance after the shim is added as the shim will change the angle of the pulley, but why not make step 5, step 16 or later.
I'm going to remove my covers in the next few days. If I can confirm my sound is coming from the sprocket (as per the tsb), I'll proably add the shim in the spring when weather warms up. If the rubbing is not too bad, I may even leave it alone. It's pretty easy to remove the front cover and inspect for rubbing damage every month or so. Some posters have had this sound for over 60,000 miles and just wait until the next timing belt interval to fix issue.
Some posters think the sound occurs because the aisin belt stretches more than the oem one. The longer belt allows rubbing. I know I didn't have this sound before I changed by belt at 95,000? and didn't have it until 20,000 miles on the aisin belt.
Interesting you mention the Aisin belt stretching, when I look at the two Aisin TB kits on rockauto the pictures don't show a 'shim' being included?
Another interesting aspect is in regards to the high $$$ OEM Taper Shim kits for this repair is the price differences between the two part numbers below, both of which include the taper shim, timing belt & TB drive pulley(gear).
Originally Posted by redbeard1
I recently changed both rear calipers on my 2005 TL AT.
Presuming you have an 05 TL AT, the price of the 04148-RCA-305 taper shim kit for the 2005 TL is quite a bit more than the 04148-RCA-306 kit for the 06-09 TL's for some reason? 04148-RCA-306 - Kit Taper Shim | Honda Parts Cheap
Moreover, they don't really get into a lot of detail / explaination for the TB drive(gear) pulley change other than because of the 'tilted' idler pulley would tend cause the TB to rub / wear the side of the TB drive pulley (gear)?
Maybe the prolonged rub of the TB on the TB drive pulley(gear) would effect indirect wear on the drive gear pulley pulser flange; in turn, affecting the CKP sensor readings?
Let us all know if you find joy when the weather permits down the line.
The kit comes with a belt, a shim, and the gear. I imagine they include the gear because the belt might have damaged the original gear, but I'll just add the shim, if I don't decide to live with the noise. shim is only $28 14559-RCA-305. the belt is only about $80. I might change the belt, but both my original and my current (I inspected it a few weeks ago) look brand new.
The kit is very expensive, but as our cars get older I find most of these OEM spare part prices are very high. I looked at the power steering pump a few days ago and I think it was north of $600. Good news the 0-rings for the pump are much cheaper, although the pear shaped one is close to $50.
I'm going to remove my covers in the next few days. If I can confirm my sound is coming from the sprocket (as per the tsb), I'll proably add the shim in the spring when weather warms up. If the rubbing is not too bad, I may even leave it alone. It's pretty easy to remove the front cover and inspect for rubbing damage every month or so.
I finally got the covers off. I'm pretty sure the noise is coming from the timing belt rubbing at the sproket. The belt is slightly closer to the engine on the forward side of the sproket.
Fwiw, as I was putting everything back, I remembered one poster (I hate cars) in the timing belt diy mentioning getting rid of his noise by hammering the impact on the harmonic balancer for a few seconds. 5 years ago, when I did my timing belt, I couldn't get the torque up to the 181 and just left it around 47 pounds plus 30 degrees, instead of 60 degrees. This time, I used my impact to move the bolt around 15 degrees more than before (so 47 ft/lbs plus 45 degrees). Now most of the old noise is gone and I'm tempted to skip the shim and just crank the bolt the final 15 degrees to see if that gets rid of all the noise.
