Time to bite the bullet....
#201
The only thing that has been mentioned to me at different points in trouble shooting is low fuel pressure/volume. The dealership sent diag info to their engineers and thats what they said. When my pump was replaced last week the tech noted that the volume of fuel when he disconnected the line was not good.
Now if this was a low pressure/volume issue, why am I not throwing lean bank codes? also why does it not happen right away if the ambient temp is lower. This is so confusing just trying to think about.
Now if this was a low pressure/volume issue, why am I not throwing lean bank codes? also why does it not happen right away if the ambient temp is lower. This is so confusing just trying to think about.
#206
Just a couple thoughts/ideas:
-Have you tried disconnecting your MAF sensor and running without it for a while?
-Not on a Honda/Acura, but I've seen this same intermittent issue almost exactly on point and it turned out to be the cam position sensor which was intermittently failing/providing false readings.
Good luck!
-Have you tried disconnecting your MAF sensor and running without it for a while?
-Not on a Honda/Acura, but I've seen this same intermittent issue almost exactly on point and it turned out to be the cam position sensor which was intermittently failing/providing false readings.
Good luck!
#208
Racer
What so everythings good now? Your problems are gone?
#212
Advanced
I had similar issues in my S2000 where it would backfire, sounds like it's a boxer engine and hesitate some days and some days it won't. It was my knock sensor. Knock sensors get really hot and since they are plastic, if anyone touched your knock sensor, it's probably trashed. It will not throw a code if it's like that and my S2000 or Civic Si didn't throw codes either. If the problem comes back, put it on a dyno and the car running super rich/not making any power will tell you it's the knock sensor.
Again, this is a guessing game since there are too many things involved but an old knock sensor touched by someone can break it and you will only find out if you put the car on dyno or just change it.
Again, this is a guessing game since there are too many things involved but an old knock sensor touched by someone can break it and you will only find out if you put the car on dyno or just change it.
#213
Car hasnt acted up at all since changing the exhaust. It hasnt hesitated once from a stop either. I might do a little more investigating on the Knock sensor though.. all those symptoms I had also.
I do plan on keeping the car, unless someone comes along with the right amount of money. I have replaced so many thing trying to find out whats wrong, the car runs like a dream now.
I do plan on keeping the car, unless someone comes along with the right amount of money. I have replaced so many thing trying to find out whats wrong, the car runs like a dream now.
#214
Advanced
Car hasnt acted up at all since changing the exhaust. It hasnt hesitated once from a stop either. I might do a little more investigating on the Knock sensor though.. all those symptoms I had also.
I do plan on keeping the car, unless someone comes along with the right amount of money. I have replaced so many thing trying to find out whats wrong, the car runs like a dream now.
I do plan on keeping the car, unless someone comes along with the right amount of money. I have replaced so many thing trying to find out whats wrong, the car runs like a dream now.
I hope it runs fine man, it's a beautiful car and nothing sucks worse than your car being sick. Maybe if your kids are sick and they keep you up all night but at least you can go drive and feel fine after that lol
Glad to hear all is well. Keep us posted
#215
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Glad to hear car is running well!
#216
So I stated above that the problem appeared to have corrected itself. Well last night and this morning it is back. I am not sure if I just did not hear it and feel it as much with the stock exhaust on, but it is for sure still there. When I had the PCD and J-Pipe I could hear it just because the exhaust was so loud.
I will be looking into changing the knock sensor this Friday. It is no where near as bad as it was with the exhaust though.
I will be looking into changing the knock sensor this Friday. It is no where near as bad as it was with the exhaust though.
#217
Three Wheelin'
So I stated above that the problem appeared to have corrected itself. Well last night and this morning it is back. I am not sure if I just did not hear it and feel it as much with the stock exhaust on, but it is for sure still there. When I had the PCD and J-Pipe I could hear it just because the exhaust was so loud.
I will be looking into changing the knock sensor this Friday. It is no where near as bad as it was with the exhaust though.
I will be looking into changing the knock sensor this Friday. It is no where near as bad as it was with the exhaust though.
You could have changed the modulator already ...
#218
"1601.88" is the price from a discounted parts site for the VSA module. You really think that is more logical then replacing a 33$ Knock sensor when multiple people have already suggested it?
I really appreciate the attempt to help, but I do not have any reasonable belief that this is VSA related
#219
Alien from Mars
iTrader: (1)
I completely electrically isolated the entire VSA system with no change to the symptom.
"1601.88" is the price from a discounted parts site for the VSA module. You really think that is more logical then replacing a 33$ Knock sensor when multiple people have already suggested it?
I really appreciate the attempt to help, but I do not have any reasonable belief that this is VSA related
"1601.88" is the price from a discounted parts site for the VSA module. You really think that is more logical then replacing a 33$ Knock sensor when multiple people have already suggested it?
I really appreciate the attempt to help, but I do not have any reasonable belief that this is VSA related
#221
secondary o2 sensors fixed my problem which had the exact same behavior like you explained. Trust me on that, just change them out and report back. They are not even that expensive. I changed out everything else before i got to them as i was also thinking that they didnt have anything to do with fuel trim and that they were only there for emission purposes but i was so wrong !!
Give it some time for the ecu to adjust to the new sensors. I hope you replaced them both. Mine took 2-3 days from being worse then ever before to where i couldnt recognise my car "good".
I have complained about this for years (same exact problem you describe) and i finally dont have to anymore.
I have complained about this for years (same exact problem you describe) and i finally dont have to anymore.
I dont know man .... Ive had the car since 05 ( brand new ) I put so much time and effort into it then I could never get myself to sell it. But Ive been thinking about it many many times.... Its still in an amazing condition considering its almost 10 years old... not even 60 000 miles on it.
Even tough I can live with the way it drives now it still drives lazy in comparison to anything I have driven lately. I know its faster then some of them but it doesnt feel that way and its nowhere near as fun... maybe because its an honda i dont know....what i know it will my last acura or honda. I know some of the germans are not as reliable but whatever brakes can be fixed, this on the other hand is a freaking mystery...
I have changed abut everything one can change.
IAT Sensor
Knock Sensor
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Map Sensor
App Sensor
02 Sensors (upstream and downstrem)
All Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils
EGR Valve
All New plenum and throttle body gaskets
Brand New Die Hard Platinum Battery
and more...
One thing i have not changed is the Throttle body... maybe you can give it a try...
I changed the transmission fluid to redline (3rd and 4th gear pressure switches)
Exhaust modification ....
A lot of it improved things to a certain extend but never fixed the root of the main problem...
the VSA seems to be the closest though...
Even tough I can live with the way it drives now it still drives lazy in comparison to anything I have driven lately. I know its faster then some of them but it doesnt feel that way and its nowhere near as fun... maybe because its an honda i dont know....what i know it will my last acura or honda. I know some of the germans are not as reliable but whatever brakes can be fixed, this on the other hand is a freaking mystery...
I have changed abut everything one can change.
IAT Sensor
Knock Sensor
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Map Sensor
App Sensor
02 Sensors (upstream and downstrem)
All Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils
EGR Valve
All New plenum and throttle body gaskets
Brand New Die Hard Platinum Battery
and more...
One thing i have not changed is the Throttle body... maybe you can give it a try...
I changed the transmission fluid to redline (3rd and 4th gear pressure switches)
Exhaust modification ....
A lot of it improved things to a certain extend but never fixed the root of the main problem...
the VSA seems to be the closest though...
My intake is the same way, i could show you pictures if you dont belive me. I found that funny as well but Ive seen other people on here where the manifold and the runner looked the same like in your case.... its pretty much normal.
There is nothing wrong with your injector or your ignition coil... ive been there done that and just wasted money.
Since the app sensor didnt solve your problem It has to be your throttle body sticking or just not functioning properly...
get a used one on the black market, there is a guy selling one and give it a try..
There is nothing wrong with your injector or your ignition coil... ive been there done that and just wasted money.
Since the app sensor didnt solve your problem It has to be your throttle body sticking or just not functioning properly...
get a used one on the black market, there is a guy selling one and give it a try..
As I said I also have that one port that is a lot cleaner in comparison.... bothered me always but like you I have received answers where people told me that it is actually normal.
Ever since the Throttle body change my car runs better then ever. Well it doesn't hesitate like before. The only thing really is that i always think that the low-end could be better but then again its a honda so maybe I am expecting to much.
Today I tested the fuel pressure, wasn't fun as i couldn't find the proper connection, the Tl doesn't have a port to attach the fuel pressure gauge but instead you have to disconnect the quick connect on the fuel line right underneath the throttle body and T-tap. I made it to work and measured 58 psi while the engine was running and 54psi with the pump primed and key left in second position. After three minutes it dropped to 50psi, 5min it was at 48 and after 30min it was at 30psi.
Is it normal... not sure but then again the gauge could be losing pressure or maybe some place else, although while engine running and checking for pressure it never dropped at all.
Ever since the Throttle body change my car runs better then ever. Well it doesn't hesitate like before. The only thing really is that i always think that the low-end could be better but then again its a honda so maybe I am expecting to much.
Today I tested the fuel pressure, wasn't fun as i couldn't find the proper connection, the Tl doesn't have a port to attach the fuel pressure gauge but instead you have to disconnect the quick connect on the fuel line right underneath the throttle body and T-tap. I made it to work and measured 58 psi while the engine was running and 54psi with the pump primed and key left in second position. After three minutes it dropped to 50psi, 5min it was at 48 and after 30min it was at 30psi.
Is it normal... not sure but then again the gauge could be losing pressure or maybe some place else, although while engine running and checking for pressure it never dropped at all.
Last edited by bauermd; 01-15-2015 at 08:37 AM.
#222
Advanced
Do not buy a knock sensor from a junkyard. Knock sensors are bolted on to one of the hottest parts of the car and since they are mostly plastic, they melt and can't be messed with. Biggest reason why knock sensors go bad without CEL is when people touch them while doing something else and once you touch a knock sensor which was exposed to heat, it will disintegrate and won't work.
I know they are expensive but before buying a new one, put your car on dyno and see what your AFR looks like and what the graph looks like. Just my .02 cents.
I know they are expensive but before buying a new one, put your car on dyno and see what your AFR looks like and what the graph looks like. Just my .02 cents.
#223
Do not buy a knock sensor from a junkyard. Knock sensors are bolted on to one of the hottest parts of the car and since they are mostly plastic, they melt and can't be messed with. Biggest reason why knock sensors go bad without CEL is when people touch them while doing something else and once you touch a knock sensor which was exposed to heat, it will disintegrate and won't work.
I know they are expensive but before buying a new one, put your car on dyno and see what your AFR looks like and what the graph looks like. Just my .02 cents.
I know they are expensive but before buying a new one, put your car on dyno and see what your AFR looks like and what the graph looks like. Just my .02 cents.
#224
Advanced
Are there any performance shops around you who will let you do just a couple of runs for cheap?
I know here in Dallas, there are tons of shops and hookups since there are huge car communities and FB groups. Try to ask people on s2ki, ford or other sites/fb pages and someone may point you in the right direction. Although, I truly hope this knock sensor got knocked lose when you messed with exhaust stuff and new one should fix everything. Hoping it will all work out man. Good luck!
#225
Replaced knock sensor and wire this morning and all seems normal. Only time will tell. The old sensor fell apart when I was taking it off, the connecter just completely fell off . Hopefully this was the issue, if not, it was only 32$ total to replace wire and sensor.
#226
Advanced
Good luck man, keep us posted.
#227
So the problem has not been noticeable for the last few weeks until yesterday. I stated the problem is REALLY bad if I go driving for a while and then shut the car off for 5-10 minutes and get back and start driving. It happened yesterday. I drove home (17 miles), and had the car off for around 3 hours(which was enough for the car to completely cool down which when this happens, problem wont happen) and then drove to the bank (7 miles). I was only at the bank for 10 minutes and the car was off, got back into it and immediately the car was jerking and hesitating with throttle. I got onto the road and gave it a decent amount of gas and it felt like there was 0 fuel getting to the motor. It was surging pretty bad throughout the RPMs.
I thought I had fixed the problem with the new knock sensor but I guess not.
The only things not replaced are Coils/Injectors/Head gaskets and then trans and engine internal components.
Any other advice guys?
I thought I had fixed the problem with the new knock sensor but I guess not.
The only things not replaced are Coils/Injectors/Head gaskets and then trans and engine internal components.
Any other advice guys?
#228
Advanced
Sorry to hear man that the problem is back. Coils won't go all bad at the same time and you'll be able to trade the problem by swapping coils. Injectors are the same way, they can't all go bad at once unless it's your ECM/ECU or wiring harness, even then there should be some kind of CEL I would think.
Head gaskets would have other indications too. Is your coolant overflow clean? Any dirt or anything in there? Can you call around for a dyno shop and see if they can do a few runs just for diagnostics purposes?
Head gaskets would have other indications too. Is your coolant overflow clean? Any dirt or anything in there? Can you call around for a dyno shop and see if they can do a few runs just for diagnostics purposes?
#229
My coolant is by no means CLEAN. like not completely transparent as it should be. It is dark but that my be normal just from looking down at it, the sides of it are blue just from light entering the container. I will take a picture today for you. I am not losing coolant or anything though.
#230
Ok everyone, car ran decent the past month or two because the weather was really cold. The temps have raised to above 60/65 this past week and the problem has came back. The only modification to the car at this time is a Injen CAI. I have had 2 different sources say my fuel pressure is weak when the problem is happening but have no been able to actually verify this or find a fix for it.
The car will run perfect as long as I do not drive it more then 15/20 minutes. I was driving around yesterday and wondered out of town and the car started to drive like sh*t again and fell on its face out of no where. It honestly feels like I am running on 3 cylinders. The noise the engine makes is real baffled and it sounds like its just missing a whole lot. I can put the pedal almost to the floor and it doesnt get any better until the car decides to downshift but then it just happens in the lower gear also. Happens in both manual mode and automatic mode.
Now being 2 different sources said my fuel pressure was weak, I have tried to just replace things related. I have a brand new OEM fuel pump assembly in there which replaced the pump, filter and regulator I think. I have not replaced the injectors but I did swap a few of them just pretty much taking shots in the dark. All the top and bottom O rings of the injectors are brand new. I feel like something is heating up and just malfunctioning but I cant think of anything else anymore. The dealership swore up and down it was because I had removed my cats. I went through the trouble of removing the test-pipes and J-pipe and TB spacer just so they wouldnt have that to blame anymore. Now they wont take the car in anymore without me paying 125$ fee just to get it in the door for an hour or "troubleshooting". Last time the Service manager told me I might just have a problem that will never get solved.
This is my last resort post, I do NOT want to get rid of the car due to how much money i've dumped into it in the last year or so but I may be at the end of my efforts.
Any last suggestions?? ):
The car will run perfect as long as I do not drive it more then 15/20 minutes. I was driving around yesterday and wondered out of town and the car started to drive like sh*t again and fell on its face out of no where. It honestly feels like I am running on 3 cylinders. The noise the engine makes is real baffled and it sounds like its just missing a whole lot. I can put the pedal almost to the floor and it doesnt get any better until the car decides to downshift but then it just happens in the lower gear also. Happens in both manual mode and automatic mode.
Now being 2 different sources said my fuel pressure was weak, I have tried to just replace things related. I have a brand new OEM fuel pump assembly in there which replaced the pump, filter and regulator I think. I have not replaced the injectors but I did swap a few of them just pretty much taking shots in the dark. All the top and bottom O rings of the injectors are brand new. I feel like something is heating up and just malfunctioning but I cant think of anything else anymore. The dealership swore up and down it was because I had removed my cats. I went through the trouble of removing the test-pipes and J-pipe and TB spacer just so they wouldnt have that to blame anymore. Now they wont take the car in anymore without me paying 125$ fee just to get it in the door for an hour or "troubleshooting". Last time the Service manager told me I might just have a problem that will never get solved.
This is my last resort post, I do NOT want to get rid of the car due to how much money i've dumped into it in the last year or so but I may be at the end of my efforts.
Any last suggestions?? ):
#231
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Is your car under warranty? If so, why not just go to a different dealer? I'd think it would have to be if they say they are going to charge you to bring it in. You'd have to do that no matter what if it was not warrantied. Youve since returned the car to stock and the issue still occurs so I don't see how they can charge you. I think it's definitely electrical - but finding it could be near impossible without lots of troubleshooting.
I think they may have to have a datalogger on it and drive it continuously - the problem will be visible on a datalogger/diag tool when it is happening and that will help lead to the root cause.
As for the low fuel pressure diagnosis - was that an 'observed' issue when it is happening or people just saying "sounds like low fuel pressure"?
I think they may have to have a datalogger on it and drive it continuously - the problem will be visible on a datalogger/diag tool when it is happening and that will help lead to the root cause.
As for the low fuel pressure diagnosis - was that an 'observed' issue when it is happening or people just saying "sounds like low fuel pressure"?
#232
The issue was data logged multiple times by the dealership and they sent the log files off to the engineers in CA they said. The engineers came back and said its either a bad tank of gas or I have low fuel pressure. Clearly not the bad tank of gas...
I had an independent mechanic look at it all the way down in FL when I took it there and they said when they were hooking up the pressure gauge, the fuel was extremely low pressure but said that was just by the looks of it.
The car is not under warranty that I know of. It expired at 70k miles and I just rolled over 100k yesterday.
When the problem is not happening, it drives like a dream. I have replaced so much stuff that almost everything minus the actual motor and trans that is runs great. There is no transition period to it running bad, its just like hitting a switch. No CELs either.
I had an independent mechanic look at it all the way down in FL when I took it there and they said when they were hooking up the pressure gauge, the fuel was extremely low pressure but said that was just by the looks of it.
The car is not under warranty that I know of. It expired at 70k miles and I just rolled over 100k yesterday.
When the problem is not happening, it drives like a dream. I have replaced so much stuff that almost everything minus the actual motor and trans that is runs great. There is no transition period to it running bad, its just like hitting a switch. No CELs either.
#233
Car has been back at the dealership for the last 6 days (for free, no charge this time to take it in). They just called and said they are seeing "weird parameters" from the MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor. Not enough to throw a cel they said. They instantly are pointing their fingers at my CAI now. If you have read any part of this thread, they initially blamed it on my exhaust which has since been removed and sold. The MAP is brand new also.. they told me my throttle body is aftermarket and its an OEM one.. argued for 5 minutes about that and just told him ill bring the "OEM" one back that I took off. I replaced it with a new OEM one for troubleshooting efforts. So now were at me replacing the CAI and "aftermarket" TB and going from there.
#234
Desert Life Sucks!!
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Just read this thread. Damn man I have no words for what you have been going through.
A couple suggestions. The gas cap code being stored is an easy fix if you didn't fix it already. It is an 80 dollar valve near your throttle body.
As far as your issue. It sounds heat related definitely. I would suggest maybe running a different ATF fluid such as amsoil. Read a few guys discussing similar problem of the transmission actually getting heat soaked.
That might explain why the removal of exhaust helped also. If you were getting extra heat from exhaust directly onto your transmission super heating it.
You may also want to run an aftermarket transmission cooler to help.
It seems you don't have an issue on cooler days, and when the car isn't heated up.
You also have the issue only in stop and go traffic and not when you are at constant hwy speeds where you have better air flow.
This is what I would take a look at personally. It sucks to see you spent so much money throwing parts at a problem.
If the transmission starts having problems, codes or not, it will affect the TCU which in turn will affect the ECU.
The back firing is most likely the ECU adding fuel to become a rich condition which will aid in cooling the engine.
You can have lean back fires and rich back fires. Both are bad.
And shame on those Acura techs for saying they can't datalog.
They either don't know what they are looking at or didn't send the data to Honda HQ for analysis.
And they have the tools to hook up an external gauge to monitor fuel pressure. They sound like retards.
I feel for you deeply. Your car looks very clean. I hope you resolve the issue. I am subscribing to see the end of this.
A couple suggestions. The gas cap code being stored is an easy fix if you didn't fix it already. It is an 80 dollar valve near your throttle body.
As far as your issue. It sounds heat related definitely. I would suggest maybe running a different ATF fluid such as amsoil. Read a few guys discussing similar problem of the transmission actually getting heat soaked.
That might explain why the removal of exhaust helped also. If you were getting extra heat from exhaust directly onto your transmission super heating it.
You may also want to run an aftermarket transmission cooler to help.
It seems you don't have an issue on cooler days, and when the car isn't heated up.
You also have the issue only in stop and go traffic and not when you are at constant hwy speeds where you have better air flow.
This is what I would take a look at personally. It sucks to see you spent so much money throwing parts at a problem.
If the transmission starts having problems, codes or not, it will affect the TCU which in turn will affect the ECU.
The back firing is most likely the ECU adding fuel to become a rich condition which will aid in cooling the engine.
You can have lean back fires and rich back fires. Both are bad.
And shame on those Acura techs for saying they can't datalog.
They either don't know what they are looking at or didn't send the data to Honda HQ for analysis.
And they have the tools to hook up an external gauge to monitor fuel pressure. They sound like retards.
I feel for you deeply. Your car looks very clean. I hope you resolve the issue. I am subscribing to see the end of this.
#235
Desert Life Sucks!!
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I had similar issues in my S2000 where it would backfire, sounds like it's a boxer engine and hesitate some days and some days it won't. It was my knock sensor. Knock sensors get really hot and since they are plastic, if anyone touched your knock sensor, it's probably trashed. It will not throw a code if it's like that and my S2000 or Civic Si didn't throw codes either. If the problem comes back, put it on a dyno and the car running super rich/not making any power will tell you it's the knock sensor.
Again, this is a guessing game since there are too many things involved but an old knock sensor touched by someone can break it and you will only find out if you put the car on dyno or just change it.
Again, this is a guessing game since there are too many things involved but an old knock sensor touched by someone can break it and you will only find out if you put the car on dyno or just change it.
When I worked at Honda, the s2000 was notorious for knock sensor issues.
#236
Appreciate the lengthy response. The Gas Cap code was fixed a little while ago, so was the knock sensor. The dealership called and told me its my cold air intake now. They initially blamed it on my exhaust and when I brought it back with stock exhaust they suddenly changed their minds.
The transmission fluid has been completely changed 2 times since owning the car and most recently at around 85k miles with the timing kit and oil pump replacement. When they finally data logged the car, the "engineers" came back and said I was losing fuel pressure or I had a bad tank of gas. Ruled out gas right away and started chasing the lost fuel pressure. This is all going off Acura saying its a loss in fuel pressure. I have not even thought about the transmission problem but it for sure makes sense. Only thing is sometimes the problem just completely goes away out of no where. It is so intermittent its kind of annoying.
Literally the only things I have not replaced are:
COPs
Injectors
Actual motor/trans
Fuel lines them self
I can't think of anything else that hasnt been replaced that is related. I actually just picked up a stock intake just to entertain the dealership at this point. Just so they stop pointing fingers are mods done to the car. After the CAI is stock, nothing else is modded on the car window tint and suspension. Which they might tell me car is too low and not enough airflow.
The transmission fluid has been completely changed 2 times since owning the car and most recently at around 85k miles with the timing kit and oil pump replacement. When they finally data logged the car, the "engineers" came back and said I was losing fuel pressure or I had a bad tank of gas. Ruled out gas right away and started chasing the lost fuel pressure. This is all going off Acura saying its a loss in fuel pressure. I have not even thought about the transmission problem but it for sure makes sense. Only thing is sometimes the problem just completely goes away out of no where. It is so intermittent its kind of annoying.
Literally the only things I have not replaced are:
COPs
Injectors
Actual motor/trans
Fuel lines them self
I can't think of anything else that hasnt been replaced that is related. I actually just picked up a stock intake just to entertain the dealership at this point. Just so they stop pointing fingers are mods done to the car. After the CAI is stock, nothing else is modded on the car window tint and suspension. Which they might tell me car is too low and not enough airflow.
#237
Alright, the car has been at the dealership going on over 2 weeks now. I went and test-drove with the master tech last night and he had a live-data laptop hooked up the entire time. We came to the conclusion that the laptop is saying the car is running completely fine. He can definitely tell there is a problem with the way the car is running though. He recognizes that. We went back and kind of had a pow-wow with a few of the other techs and came to the conclusion that no one knows what is wrong with it and 99% chance I will never get it fixed.
I did verify they checked compression and checked valve clearance and those were both ok. He also did some live-data on the transmission and did not see anything wrong there either. Solenoids were fine.
I think I might just have to give up....
I did verify they checked compression and checked valve clearance and those were both ok. He also did some live-data on the transmission and did not see anything wrong there either. Solenoids were fine.
I think I might just have to give up....
#238
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
This dealership sounds like it has no experienced driveability mechanics. They are grasping at straws and blaming everything they can think of just because they have no clue.
I think this is heat related. Honestly it could be something as simple as connector that is only halfway plugged in and comes loose with heat. Believe me, I've seen it before.
You need to find a new dealer that has REAL techs, and not parts swappers.
I think this is heat related. Honestly it could be something as simple as connector that is only halfway plugged in and comes loose with heat. Believe me, I've seen it before.
You need to find a new dealer that has REAL techs, and not parts swappers.
#239
Desert Life Sucks!!
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Tell them to take off a fuel line and put some gas in a container and let it settle and see if the fuel has slime in it.
I have also seen this on a civic. Had transmission codes and some other CEL's.
Found it by accident when the HDS tool said it was low fuel pressure.
The gas tank had a tremendous amount of slime in it. I had to remove the fuel tank and completely empty it and hand clean the inside.
After cleaned and re-installed. Ran some good fuel through it at a high rpm and it pushed all the crap through the injectors. Replace fuel filter and never saw the car come back to the shop after that.
I have also seen this on a civic. Had transmission codes and some other CEL's.
Found it by accident when the HDS tool said it was low fuel pressure.
The gas tank had a tremendous amount of slime in it. I had to remove the fuel tank and completely empty it and hand clean the inside.
After cleaned and re-installed. Ran some good fuel through it at a high rpm and it pushed all the crap through the injectors. Replace fuel filter and never saw the car come back to the shop after that.
#240
Desert Life Sucks!!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Land of Entrapment
Age: 46
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As far as the tech's telling you after market parts are your problem. They are idiots. But I am sure their service managers are putting up a fight about not being factory parts.
That sounds more like them not wanting to admit they have no idea how to fix it. And right about now would be a good time to get corporate involved.
I am surprised they haven't asked for an engineer or a master tech from another facility to come and diagnose.
That sounds more like them not wanting to admit they have no idea how to fix it. And right about now would be a good time to get corporate involved.
I am surprised they haven't asked for an engineer or a master tech from another facility to come and diagnose.